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MaratM

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Everything posted by MaratM

  1. Due to the fact that I live in a middle of nowhere there was a very low possibility to test either the mobo or CPU, thus I decided to order a new motherboard. The choice was Gigabyte b760i After a few days of waiting I got the mobo. placed the CPU into it and it is alive. my old ram is detected and all is working. thus I started to put it all back together. It was all assembled, blow tested, and leak tested. it was time to fire it up after a fresh windows 11 install and playing around with aquareo settings I fired Cinebench R23 the result of this test was almost 30K points and power consumption of 285W hence the CPU was hitting 100C on some cores. So following internet advice I tried to udervolt the CPU, however even if undervolt works its application drops performance, but the monitoring shows that the CPU frequency remains the same, power consumption goes down and overall R23 score goes down to 16-20K points. after playing with various bios settings I ended up cutting power limit to 230W and call it a day. The temps went down by 15C and R23 score went down to almost 29K I think it is a good result for lowering temps. There is also an option for delidding the CPU and liquid metal the CPU. (aliexpress delidder costs around 15 USD)
  2. All the parts were ready, it was time for upgrade!!! Firstly I changed the pump from d5 to ddc ekwb, it fitted perfectly onder the res in the “bottom” chamber. after that an aquacomputer water flow sensor was installed, all was connected and ready for a leak test. I was not really in a hurry, but i forgot to close the drain plug! Hence a little flood on my floor, not to warry, all mopped up and ready to go!!! filled the res, started the pump and I found another leak near the gpu, thus a little waterfall all over the motherboard. tied it all up carried on - another leak at the external rad!!! That was the last one. The loop was finally filled up, no more leaks!!! Great!!! And i looked at the flow meter (barrow) and it was not showing good numbers, under 0.5 liter/min. Something must be wrong with it, or with a loop. I left it to dry untill next weekend. Hey it is distilled water it can not do any harm to electronics if it does not have any power!!! Next weekend I drained the loop, disassemble it all and found the flow problem. The second hand cpu waterblock was cleanned, but the cold plate was placed wrongly. Thus all the water was going through 3 micro fins!!! So before filling up the loop i decided to do a dry start. Placed a stock intel cooler on top of the cpu and fired it up! Nothing! A constant bootloop! Flashing ram testing diod and that was it! looked like either the mobo or cpu are dead or both.
  3. The 8700k was showing its age, it is not a bad cpu, however it was time to upgrade, not like it was really needed but it was one of these things that can be done. Let the shopping begin! I bought a 13700k a fancy looking thermalright bracket and a EKWB backplate for the lga 1700 socket. (All of it was bought on amazon and shipped to Russia from the US, by means of forwarding company, the only reason for it was a very nice exchange rate in summer and the sanctions imposed on Russia, caused the prices on new CPU’s go through the roof) The motherboard of my choice was Biostar b660 itx. It is a nice liitle affordable board, I also decided to update my boot drive to Samsung 980pro. (Bought it on the Black Friday sale on amazon, however it took me 2 months to get it delivered) Also needed a waterblock for new motherboard. Second hand EK evo for a third of the price sounds like a good deal for me) By the end of January I had it all on my table to start the assembly. Had a minor problem - MB needed a bios update to work with 13700k. Solved by borrowing a 12xxx series CPU from a local store. All is ready time to upgrade the “never-ending build”
  4. Bykski and Barrow make these meters, they are using standard molex plug. however they have direction it can be changed. The best controller on the market is aquaero by aqua computer with it you can monitor everything but you might end up spending a lot of money on it including all the sensors.
  5. the VRM cooling on most top of the line MB is enough to keep VRM's temp under control, the only thing is the "cool look" of the monoblock. however better rads and better fans increase performance of the loop more than a fancy looking monoblock
  6. use the fattest rads you can fit, bigger is better
  7. there is a rubber o-ring inside fittings, with enough lube and a bit of force it will fit. however make sure you trim the edges of the tubes nice and smooth. otherwise you might damage the o-rings. also make sure you do a leak/pressure test before you start you rig.
  8. Due to the fact that most fan noise is gone and 3080ti is more than capable to run most games in 4k. I connected my pc via my denon reciever. Finally I experienced how is to play games in dolby atmos!!!
  9. The loud fans had to be dealt with. The solution had to be simple but effective. An external radiator. The idea was bigger is better. After a search on the second hand market I found a beast rad. EKWB CE 560 4x140mm The fans were budget ones but good enough Arctic P14PWM The Base was painted matt black. and after a few weeks the rad was installed in order to control the fans an additional controller was bought Aquacomputer OCTO, Now I have 9 PWM fans Here is the results. The fan speed dropped down to 700-800 on the Noctuas and the Arctics are running at 600-700 RPM. It is near silent!!! The coolant temp dropped down by 6 degrees. this is after 45 minutes stress test.
  10. alcohol is a bad idea because if it get in contact with acrylic it causes micro cracks.
  11. A couple years have passed. Finally GPU prices have gone down, thus it is time to upgrade. New GPU is purchased. Galax RTX 3080 ti. It is not the best 3080ti, but it has a reference pcb and finding a waterblock for it is not a problem After a search on the internet found a waterblock for Asus 3090 EKWB. However even it is stated on EKWB database that Asus 3090 EKWB is compatible with RE waterblock it is not vice versa. The inductors and caps on the Asus pcb are different than on the reference one. Therefore it is not possible to install a Asus waterblock on RE pcb. However I learned about it the hard way. Installed all thermal pads and thermal paste, to find out a problem a few minutes later The seller of that waterblock was actually very good. He sent me the EKWB RE one with EKWB backplate. A week later I had it and installed it. As it was said "Heavy is good - heavy is reliable" 1300 grams with minimum changes it was integrated into the loop The heven stress test showed reasonable temps. Coolant warmed up to 42C. 2 240 slim rads can not really handle 350 watts of GPU power, at a near silent level. the fans spun up to 1500 rpm. it is a bit loud for my liking but I have a few ideas.
  12. You can rewire the pump to run off the mobo header (black, yellow, blue) , according to the manual CPU header can supply up to 2 amp. Plug the pump to the CPU header and set the header to the DC mode in BIOS, this way you can control the speed of the pump.
  13. for CPU's just use off the shelf parts, for the VRM you can use a couple of VRM waterblocks from watercool https://shop.watercool.de/VRM just get one with no holes and drill them as needed. it is also possible to tap the vrm blocks so you can bolt them from the back of the motherboard. you can also find universal VRM blocks on aliexpress https://aliexpress.ru/item/32218344229.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.5.280a75a1J2N95P&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.34525.229157.0&scm_id=1007.34525.229157.0&scm-url=1007.34525.229157.0&pvid=790d372a-44ba-4146-82c3-4b928ebbc3f8&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.34525.229157.0,pvid:790d372a-44ba-4146-82c3-4b928ebbc3f8,tpp_buckets:24525%230%23229157%234_21387%230%23233228%230_4452%230%23226710%230_4452%233474%2316498%23589_4452%234862%2324463%23612_4452%233098%239599%23885_4452%235105%2323438%23846_4452%233564%2316062%23578&scenario=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&tpp_rcmd_bucket_id=229157&_ga=2.103573063.650948029.1625649688-920521769.1619678309 I think the chinese ones are better price and they will be better on the chinese noname mobo
  14. it might be a blockage of CPU block, it is very easily blocked cause the fins are very thin.
  15. as long as you are not using any alcohol based fluids for cleaning acrylic you are fine.
  16. lian li q37 does fit 2 240 rads, but it was a bit pricy and probably will be hard to find
  17. Ek has 3 different pump-res combos!!! d5 abd ddc use molex for power and fan header for pwm control/tacho reading, there is a small one as well, looks like a ddc, it was rated for around 12 watts/1amp and it can be connected to most of fan headers on your motherboard, as long as they are capable of providing enough current. I have a simmilar pump but a chinese bykski, it is running from the cpu header, however you must set it up in such a way that the upper temp of the cpu has to be below actual cpu temp under very heavy load for example your cpu runs 78c under stress test with 70% thus the pwm signal must go to 100% at around 85c And keep the fan curve as flat as possible
  18. Some pictures of your project will be helpfull, it is best to place it in the lowest point of you loop.
  19. I bought some barrow fittings from them, i used aliexpress for it. The shipping was a bit long but it is the post office not the store.
  20. Unless you delid the cpu. LM under IHS does really helps on 8700k or simmilar monolithic die cpu’s but it does not worth the risk to delid a Ryzen. Otherwise it is a bit pointless, you might shave off a coulpe degrees, but it worth it only if you really pushing the limits of your cpu. a good thermal paste does the job just as well. And do not start a discussion about “best” thermal paste, they all more the less the same except the special sub-zero ones
  21. If you can make a custom loop you can swap the fans around as intake or exhaust. Set it up as front in, top out, run a totrure test untill your tems are stable (usually a aida64+furmark or heaven is good enough) write it down including vrm temps. Next swap the fans around on the top rad and do the same thing again. Based on your observations make your desision
  22. Really no need to watercool. Any 1.2 kilo tower will do. Also from my experience there is no point of running cpu at max overclock, noone can see the difference between 4.8 and 5 ghz without use of monitoring software. And the difference too small to be even noticed. Unless you do some very cpu intensive worlkoads all the time for a business use. But this way you are better off to get a 9900k it used to be on sale for around 320usd
  23. There a few ways you can mount it this way Use a hex head screws and a very short allen key or one with roundish end, it allows to screw it at an angle. You can also use small bolts and a niddle nose pliers. And of cause a good old zip-ties can do the trick!!! Insert one through the radiator monting hole from the radiator side and use another zip-tie to secure the fan to the rad, cut off the ends.
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