HarmInTrying

Just in case Linus happens to have a look at this... https://ca.linkedin.com/in/mark-neskar-763b2017 Talk to Mark. I think it would be worth your time. This is my room mate's dad, extremely well versed in running companies and not letting it consume his life. I would hate to see you entirely walk away from this digital empire you've created; it makes people's lives a touch better, whether those of your employees or your viewers, however, it should not be to the detriment of your eudaimonia. Thanks.

Hey, OP, did you end up picking up the T6i? I'm in the market for a DSLR and that guy fits nicely within my budget. Just wondering what your first thoughts are, if any, regarding image quality, usability, ease of learning (you said you were looking to learn; me too!), etc. Anything you could throw my way would be appreciated. Thanks! Sorry for digging up a 2 month old post.

Hey friend, It could have something to do with the notably poor thermal compound Intel uses between the chip and IHS on the 6700K. I have heard this a couple times now, but am apprehensive to try changing the thermal compound or just delidding. I have the same processor and seem to be having the same issues. If your waterblock has imperfections on the surface, you could try lapping it to get better contact between the block and IHS. I haven't had the time to do any tinkering yet, so unfortunately I can't offer you any more than that.

I just wanted to mention the extensions as they weren't something that I really saw "the purpose of" until I had my rig built and running... then tried to put a 3.5" in my hot swap bay. My case requires a 25mm spacer off the rad and a 90 degree mounted to that in order to clear the fans on the backside of the rad, and then immediately turn up away from the hotswap bay. I may end up moving my reservoir/pump combo to the back, in which case I can forgo the extension and just run the tubing under the fan... There are always options! The other handy scenario I found for extensions was for making a drain from the rad. I just bored a hole in the bottom of my case and put in a little ~30mm extension with a plug. It's nice to have the extension extend past the bottom of the case so you have something to hold while you unscrew the plug, but how far it can extend will depend on the topography of the bottom of your case. You can get away with a lot of "guess and check" with soft tubing, but if there are critical aspects of case functionality that you don't want to sacrifice for the sake of water cooling, very carefully consider your component placement, and as well how you intend for water to get from one component to the next. I mean, it's pretty flexible, but if you ask it to do back flips things get... pretty kinky.

"Extenders", I guess is the correct word. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/fittings/extenders-and-spacers/static-extender As for the swivels, yeah, totally more risk of leaking. The swivel joint is a rubber o-ring sandwiched between two metal flanges... That's it... :\ Don't buy cheap ones, and do your leak testing. Maybe order an extra one or two, just in case? I avoid rotating the swivel joint as much as possible to minimize the wear I put on the o-ring before install. It might be more paranoia than anything but I can't really afford to replace my rig on a whim. My current build I managed to do entirely with Monsoon straight compression fittings, so I'm pretty comfortable moving it around. I would be less so with swivel fittings, but with that being said, I have plans to re-route my tubing, which will definitely involve swivel-angled fittings. Right now my pump/res/head is right in front of all but my uppermost PCI slots, so... Yeah... I'm dumb. Hasn't been a problem until recently. Also, too swoopy and that colour.. Gross. Time for new tubing... Not to mention both of the hot swap bays at the bottom are MIA. It needs work, I'm aware. Moral of the story - here are some things I screwed up - don't replicate.

Check out Uncle Doug on Youtube. He reworks vintage tube amps, scratch builds amps, and he's a highschool science teacher of some sort, so his explanations of electro-magnitism and circuitry are pretty tangible for the layman. https://www.youtube.com/user/Stratosaurus1 I'd say just slap a 10" Celestron blue in there and call it a day. Don't even tighten the screws; it'll be like natural distortion!

You could probably buy the exact same combo pack used on Kijiji, it just won't come with a warranty. These Squire strats are a dime a dozen, but they're usually a decent guitar to learn on. Don't expect it to sound like your favourite metal leads, or some beefy djent drop C chug-chug, and the intonation won't be perfect (open E will not be exactly in tune with 12th fret E, buuut it should be). About the amp - It's pretty much a pile. Gain is tinny, cleans are thin, single EQ for clean and gain channels and no option for a foot switch. This amp will only keep up with the most gentle of jazz percussionists; any kind of rock music will require something with a bit more go-juice. If you aren't planning to jam with friends any time soon, you can skip the whole amp business and DI to your PC. This gives you you the flexibility to largely use what you already own (speakers or headphones, EQ, some DAW to run post-processing for a gain that doesn't sound like farts...; REAPER is pretty nice and no one's gonna make you pay for it if you're just messing around at home) and allow you to play around with tone, as well as record yourself. There's a couple ways to do this. I'm currently running a UR44 to my PC which gives 4 balanced XLR/ 1/4" ins with 24V phantom and decent preamps, plus 4 more 1/4" ins. Note: this is a recording interface, so it would be largely overkill for one person to practice with. A DI box is a simple way to boost a signal and run it directly into you PC line-in via 3.5mm audio jack. NEVER put a speak-out from an amp to your PC, good lord. Speaker outs are for speakers and loadboxes ONLY. Ask 12 year old me how he cooked his favourite pair of headphones... https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DI400P This is the sort of device I'm talking about; you have 1/4" in for your guitar, then 1/4" out to your interface/line-in, but I'm pretty sure this specific one will sound at least as bad as the Frontman 10, but just for an idea of what kind of cost you'd be looking at for a base line. If you already have a decent pair of headphones or speakers I would advocate for this route. It'll likely* save you a couple bucks, and also give you the very objective audience that is a microphone.

Heyo, I can't tell from from your parts list, but I would advocate for the swivel type angled fittings. They're easier to secure and line up. Spacers. 25-30mm are handy for coming off a rad, clearing a fan, and turning 90degrees. Having to put in a second order for a 3 dollar part and being charged 20 for shipping sucks. Been there. Done that. Learn from my stupid. You can get a "kill coil" at Michaels crafts. Just buy some 99.99% silver "bezel wire". It's made for setting cabs (flat backed stones) but does the job just the same. Kill coil + distilled water works nice, but your machine is toast it it leaks; the silver will oxidize into the water over time, adding charged particles to the water (but I dare say that's true regardless of what's running in your loop). Avoid mixing metals, like Naughty said. If you have done so, use a corrosion inhibitor; it'll reduce re-dox in your loop. Have you drawn this all out yet? Where to fill, where to drain, where to mount, etc? I'd suggest this just because this stuff isn't easy to find at your corner convenience store; if you don't have everything you need at the time of the build, your PC is out of commission until your subsequent order arrives. Ain't no one got time for that; there're games to play and videos to render! GL;HF! PS- Don't pay for a PSU-on jumper. Just keep a paper clip in your wallet so you can show your friends your "most important tool for water cooling." Also handy for removing Apple SIM cards. Check a schematic for your PSU, but on the 24 pin, there should be a line for "PSU-on" (It's green on mine) which you need to jump to a black wire (ground). If you do that and hit the switch on the PSU, you can run your pump without putting charge into any of your hardware, ie- less chance of a short if something leaks during your MINIMUM 24 HOUR LEAK TESTING with jiggling and tube tapping. If it's gonna leak, you might as well find out when everything is laden with paper towel.

Hydro is included in my rent. I don't remember how to turn it off.

So for the past week or so, I've had this finger tip that has been inflamed, and sore. Went to the doctor to get some antibiotics, but they weren't helping. I finally decided to seek some medical intervention on Friday night and the result is pretty wicked. "Incision and drainage" - yeah. gross. Anyways, thanks to Luke and Linus for distracting me with some WAN show while the doctor did his thing... I didn't even look...

I kind of got a gift out of necessity; I'm invited to a black-tie wedding and don't own a suit so my folks offered to cover it for me as a Christmas gift. Makes me feel very "James Bond", albeit, noticeably less suave. Beyond that, all I really want is one of those monster Toblerone bars...

You can see the difference in the fin orientation on high static pressure (HSP) vs high flow fans. HSP always have a shallower angle of attack and tighter fin placement; prevents air from flowing backwards through the fins. Verses the high-flow designs which feature a more aggressive fin angle and wider spacing... Almost like it's "throwing" air through the fan rather than "pressing" it like the HSP fans do. I would presume HSP fans are higher in pitch than their high-flow counter-parts at the same RPM. The HSP fan "chops" the air more often, resulting in a higher frequency. All of my fans are SP120s from corsair. When it spins up to 100% (which happens when benching, and that's about it) it screams pretty good, but maintains good airflow through the thick rad, and piles of cat hair on my dust filter...

Hey friend, First thing I will do is wholly discourage you from water cooling you CPU with a custom loop. Is your AIO not up-to-snuff anymore? Take the pump off and flush the rad with CLR. Replacing the tubing Might help you some as well. what you're about to embark on is expensive and potentially dangerous to your other expensives. But, if you're dedicated to the idea (because you're nutty like the rest of us) then, yeah. let's duet. DO NOT buy cheap swivel fittings. Cheap, straight/ridged fittings are probably okay provided they have some good barb to them. Only fittings I have ever had leak were cheap 90 degree swivels. If you're trying to do this for as cheap as possible, omit the reservoir. It makes it a bit tricky to fill but will save you $50-100CAD. I have a block for an am3+ board. Cuplex Kryos with the black acetal top. Pay for the shipping and it's yours. I toasted my 8350 2 years ago, so the block is just collecting dust. I'm in Winnipeg. This is the block...https://www.aquacomputer.de/cuplex-kryos.html (English site is down, sorry for zeh German). Have you considered sizing of rads yet? That's a thirsty CPU you have. Have you considered what size tubing you want to go with? Remember your fittings need to correspond with that (ID for barb fittings; ID and OD for compressions). If you go with a crossflow (like X-flow from Alphacool) rad keep in mind that it is quite a bit longer than one ones that make a full loop around (intake and output from the same end). Some kind of drill and a rotary tool set is very handy to have for this kind of work. Cut off wheels especially. HSS drill bits... Don't use your HSS drillbits in your rotary tool... They aren't made to operate at 12K RPM. my best advice to you is to read. Read everything. Find a build log from someone who has watercooled a CPU in your case. Read their parts list. Read their troubles. Read their mistakes. Then Google images. Find some pictures of your case with watercooling installed. Then head to youtube and do the same thing. Build on the shoulders of giants... They have more money to piss away on hardware than you or I (The LTT mining server build video is coming to mind... Seriously Jello). Also, draw pictures. Make a diagram of your loop and be sure to include everything! (Tube bone's connected to the barb bone; barb bone's connected to the compression ring bone, etc) GL;HF