ManEatingFridge

Funny enough that I got the GPU refunded and after putting in a new one it fixed all of my issues.

If you look at the pcpartpicker link you'll see why I have to repaste my CPU to remove/reinstall the GPU. Figured I could try this anyway since I would need to remove the GPU if the RMA request goes through. An incredible 2.21 FPS. Anyway, I already spent close to a month with no GPU in the PC when I did my first RMA request so I already know it just doesn't crash with it removed. I can run a CPU stress test or leave a 3D application running for 12h or something but I doubt it will result in a BSOD.

Updated chipset driver, BIOS, DDU + reinstalled latest NVIDIA driver. Got the same BSOD, no change.

It was mostly because I just didn't need the card to use that much power when I was getting more than enough performance most of the time. I wish I had more components lying around to swap out the GPU/PSU but I moved to the UK and sold my old PC after putting this one together. Don't really want to buy replacement components this expensive in a blind try to fix the PC. At that point, I might as well take the PC to the local repair shop for them to try but they just told me to RMA the card again since that is almost certainly the issue.

Thanks a lot for taking a look at the dump files. I don't have much hope for updating drivers/BIOS/DDU since I went through an extensive round of that when these issues started developing, going as far as getting the latest VBIOS for the GPU and format+reinstalling Windows twice and constantly updating BIOS over the last 6 months. That being said can never hurt to try one more time so I'll give it a shot.

I think it was gamersnexus that showed the card only spiking 40% for 1ms which is within range of a 1000W PSU even if it would spike that high. More importantly, I've run the card at an 80% power limit (and the CPU in 140W Eco Mode) for most of its life so it wouldn't even get that high.

This is basically the only component I haven't been able to rule out because all of the PSU troubleshooting basically starts and ends with "compare the PSU against a known working unit." I don't really want to buy a new PSU just to see if my 1000W 80plus titanium PSU could be faulty - hence why I went with trying to return the card. That brings me back to the original post: ZOTAC so far just hasn't responded to my support ticket for 2 weeks and the one time I tried to RMA through the seller they just sent the card back. The PC repair shop I talked to said it's likely they just plugged the card in and didn't really test it and recommended basically what I'm doing now. Trying to RMA directly through the manufacturer or trying to RMA with the seller again. I'm left very frustrated that my expensive workstation PC is left useless until ZOTAC decides to grace me with a response or I have to cross my fingers and hope the seller somehow this time does replace the card. I guess I could try calling ZOTAC support next week?

If it was just a compatibility issue I don't understand how the GPU could have worked perfectly fine for the first 3 months or so. Worth mentioning that I tested all the components on a different motherboard when my friend was building a PC at one point and saw the same issues. Already checked the CPU pins before and there is nothing wrong with them. I have tested the system on a 980 evo 1TB ssd I had lying around and saw the same issues.

Tested it and no difference

All of the audio devices other than Focusrite USB Audio are disabled. I haven't tried with the GPU in any other PCIE slots because it doesn't really fit anywhere other than the first one: I could try swapping the SSD to a different M.2 slot I guess but I don't have that much hope that it would help. As for powering the system on with a minimal configuration I already did this after my second Windows reinstall and the stability issues were still there (back then it was just games crashing because the DirectX device became unresponsive).

@Robchil The pcpartpicker list https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/WpBcCJ is in the post but here you go: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X Mobo: Asus ROG STRIX X670E-F GAMING WIFI RAM: Corsair Vengeance 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 GPU: Zotac GAMING AMP Extreme AIRO GeForce RTX 4090 SSD: Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB PSU: SeaSonic PRIME TX-1000 The reason I don't suspect any other components is because Event Viewer specifically says nvlddmkm crashed, there are graphical artifacts on the BSOD, Memory Diagnostic shows no issues with the memory, CPU torture tests show no issues, temps are all normal even right up to the crash from HWiNFO logging, the crashing is triggered by 3D applications, and most importantly when I remove the GPU from the PC all issues cease. Anecdotally a local PC repair shop guy said he has never seen a Seasonic PSU fail in 21 years and said my issues are 99% likely just a manufacturing defect in the GPU memory. If you have suggestions for what else might cause the issue I'm open to it though.

I think it is best summed up by the support request I sent to ZOTAC: I sent this and got an automated response telling me a ZOTAC representative would get in contact within 24-72 hours. It's been 2 weeks so idk what to do at this point. An update on the "when connecting the display to the motherboard output all issues cease and the PC is perfectly stable" - this is also no longer the case. Doing that made the PC stable enough to get into Windows but as soon as I open a game or game engine the display freezes and it will BSOD if I wait for the DPC watchdog to time out. Got the BSOD information by launching CS2, leaving the main menu running for about a minute. Game froze, closed the game, then after about 90 seconds or however long it takes the DPC watchdog I got the DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION BSOD (with heavy graphical artifacts). Zip attached, PC spec: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/b/WpBcCJ, OS is OEM x64 Windows 10 Pro 10.0.19045 Build 19045, NVIDIA driver is 537.42 (latest as of 30/09/2023). Couldn't get perfmon /report to finish collecting for some reason. Anything for me to try or does anyone have recommendations for how to get ZOTAC or the seller to replace this brick? SysnativeFileCollectionApp.zip

The almost two month wait for my 3900X has ended and I've finally completed it! CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Motherboard: Asus PRIME X570-PRO Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB Turbo GPU Cooler: Kraken G12 + NZXT Kraken X52 Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Titanium 850 W 80+ Titanium + Phanteks White Extentions Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit Case Fan: 3 x Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap + 2 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap + 1 x Noctua b9 The top rad ended up being a ridiculously tight fit with the rad touching the IO shield, front rad and rear fan. There was barely 1mm of wiggle room in any direction or at least thats how it seemed. The cable management was also a nightmare because of all the AIO cables and the 500mm extentions and radiators clogging up the case. I also ran the firmware update for both AIOs in CAM and it was interrupted by some other program shutting the PC down. For a moment it seemed that both were bricked but I managed to recover them with the reprogramming tool. All in all very long wait and very stressful build but the results are awesome and I'm quite proud. This PC is going to be my gamedev, design, and gaming workstation. CPU settings are stock and haven't touched RAM either... yet: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/19525415 Cinebench R20 - 7048 Pics:

Yeah so somehow flashing back to the latest BIOS after clearing CMOS got it to post no issues. I rebooted a bunch of times to check and everything is detecting and working properly. I'm glad this isn't my system because what in the actual fuck. EDIT: Actually no. After doing some cable management the issue repeated. I then reflashed the BIOS again and got the system to post. After a while I got the same issue again. Should I just RMA the motherboard?

I flashed to 07/10 as a sanity check but I'm flashing back to 07/22 just in case it works somehow. Yes the CPU LED is solid red

Cpu cables are good

Tried one stick and every slot. Maybe the wrong stick, I have another 2x16GB set of DDR4 so maybe I should try that?. Doesn't seem relevant though, since when I got it to boot it recognized both sticks in A2 and B2.

B450 Tomahawk R5 3600 RTX 2080 2x8 DDR4 3200 CL16 Assembled everything on the mobo box, flashed to the latest BIOS. Didn't post, mobo rgb was glowing white and cpu debug LED was solid red, fans spinning, no shutdown or anything it just stayed like this. Somehow switching the RAM sticks around (A2 to B2 and B2 to A2) fixed it. Boot sequence was that the mobo RGB would turn off, then solid red and debug LEDs would go CPU, skip DRAM straight to VGA and then BOOT. Got into BIOS just fine, everything detected. I then assembled the build into the case and low and behold no post again with the same symptoms as before. This time no RAM swapping or anything is helping. Tried clearing cmos and flashed an older bios, still nothing. Tried booting 20 times in a row. Still nothing. Wat do?

Thanks man, I'll try the 280 out in shop somehow if I can but looks like it'll be fine. I see you have superior noctua fans as well. Truly a man of culture. Awesome build, I'll try and reach your level one day

So the 240 at the top isn't even occluding the RAM? Did you have any trouble with anything on the mobo getting in the way? Rad thickness? Also those fans are practically touching lol. Are any secondary components like ram, vrms, chipset etc getting toasty in there? This is the kind of loop I would do if I had the money for it. This pic makes me sad.

Would a Meshify C fit dual radiators? Any experience and stories about watercooling in the case appreciated. Need to fit a 280mm AIO in the front and 240 at the top. Fractal's spec page says 240 in the top is fine if mobo component height is below 40mm. I got Corsair LPX ram which is like 37mm or something, though I'm not sure if the I/O or VRM heatsinks on the mobo would get in the way. Front 280mm rad is limited by GPU length. Assuming 30mm rad, 25mm fan and 267mm GPU I should have like 7 cm of clearance. Now the last concern would be that the two rads get in eachother's way somehow (where they would meet in the top right of the case). This is kinda hard to account for through specs and pics alone and I haven't seen anyone online really doing this. Really don't see any other case I'd want to do the build in other than maybe the O-11DW, but that would require some changes in cooling hardware. Thoughts?

amazon.de ships free to Estonia for the most part. I'll probably order most of the build from 1a.ee since their prices are quite similar. arvutitark.ee is also an option.

So this is the situation: I want to get my bearings before 7/7 so I'll be ready to build ASAP. I already have a 1080ti cooled by kraken g12 and kraken x62. Am planning to build a 3900x pc for game dev, gaming and lots of productivity. I'm worried about overspending. These are my questions: Can the Meshify C fit two 280mm AIOs? Is there anything better noise/performance wise than Kraken X62 (Noctua fans)? 32gb 3200mhz cl16 ram or 16gb? If 16gb then what speed might x570 support? Seasonic Prime Titanium 750W overkill or no? I'm planning on getting 1tb PCIe storage. Wait for Gen4? Would it even matter if I get 3500 read or 5000. Best color accurate/high refresh GSYNC monitor? Preferably below 1.5k. Should I be worried about a rise in prices due to overall demand and buy any components before 7/7? Budget for the pc is 2200€ (I'm from EU) but I don't know if I need to spend that much for my needs. Monitor is secondary right now, I need the pc to make more money anyway.

Haven't isntalled anything other than afterburner. Render test makes core run at 2025 with +80. In kombustor it dropped to 1750 or something.

Oh so because the card is factory OC it hits that way sooner. Didn't think about that...