Astroflash

Yeah that what I already do.. I have an Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX201 receiver on my desktop and a TP-Link RE700X extender in AP mode. (ethernet to extender -> wifi to machine)

Yeah it's just slightly weird because the setup doesn't change (distance and location from router) but seeing huge discrepancies in speed.

Does anyone have any tips to diagnose inconsistent Wi-Fi speeds, assuming no overlapping channels and good signal strength? Sometimes I'll get 300-400meg on Wifi and other times 500. However I will always test 500 on wired. Have tried 20/40/80/160Mhz bands and each is consecutively faster but only sometimes will the higher bands reach the full 500. Setup is 5ghz AX, -50dbm signal strength. Anything I can do?

Hi guys, was curious about the difference between these two kits. The rated speeds and timings are the same, but the SPDs are different. Why would this matter and in what use case? I know it's probably meaningless, but I'm curious about the technical details that would mean Corsair would produce two different versions. https://www.corsair.com/ww/en/Categories/Products/Memory/Vengeance-RGB-PRO-SL-Black/p/CMH32GX4M2Z3600C18#tab-tech-specs https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Categories/Products/Memory/Vengeance-RGB-PRO-SL-Black/p/CMH32GX4M2D3600C18#tab-tech-specs

That looks like a screenshot - in which case we can't see what your monitor looks like. Having said that, if you are referring to the banding in the background of the image above, it's completely normal. Don't know why some games do that.

Picked up a used 970 yesterday and found it was randomly artifacting and got a bsod which indicated an Nvidia driver issue. I DDUd and tried an older driver to no avail. The artifacting is hard to reproduce and not constant. After disabling G-sync however, I've run into absolutely no issues whatsoever. This is confusing because I had a 1080ti running with Gsync on this monitor for months with no problem and surely a bsod couldn't be caused by a dodgy monitor...? 10600K 3200Mhz CL16 ROG STRIX Z490-I EVGA G3 650W Gold Sabrent 1TB SSD

Trigger warning: A/B testing lossy/loseless audio formats to poop on the audiophile elitists with their snakeoil $500 DACs.

I'm extremely confused. I have a OnePlus 6T connected to our Wifi router with seemingly good signal strength, as confirmed by downloading a signal strength checker app (-60dbm) yet often nothing loads and speed tests often fail to run at all. It's not an ISP issue. We pay for an 80/20Mbps connection and running a speed test either wired/wireless on any other device always yields 70Mbps+. So square me this: The phone signal strength does not change (always good, around -60dbm) and the indicator on the notification bar is always full and it never disconnects. Some speed tests on the phone fail to run at all, some are sub 1Mbps, and some are above 70Mbps (as expected) All other devices report 70mbps+ on both a wired/wireless connection every single time, all the time, even just after getting sub 1Mbps on the phone. What the frick is going on? Thanks for any help.

Not really though if you're looking for high refresh rate RTX gameplay

Rocket league. It runs terribly with G-Sync enabled.

I'm temporarily using a GTX 760 instead of the 1080Ti I had before. With the 1080Ti, enabling G-Sync would hurt performance by (<5%), but with the 760 it's as much as 50% (measured in Firestrike, Graphics score only) GPU utilisation on the 760 is around 60-80% in Firestrike with G-sync enabled but it goes back to 100% when I disable Gsync...? Temps are sub 70c. Latest drivers. Running 1440p @120Hz

I had the same problem after I bought a card pre-waterblocked off ebay. Ended up snapping one of the screws trying to unscrew it. Good luck...

Yeah I just checked, it's a fusion drive. It's a 2014 iMac so I'm guessing the storage can't be changed without removing the display?

That's a good point. I thought there was already an SSD in it but turns out it's a "fusion" drive. Not sure if that's worth upgrading.

I haven't used Mac OS for about 10 years so not too familiar with it anymore but my Dad needs help with his Mac OS machine slowing down recently (It's a 2014 iMac 5K so not too old) e.g on Windows I would do something like: Check SSD(s) have been trimmed recently and defrag HDDs (or delete stuff if close to getting full) Remove most startup programs in task manager. Maybe run CCleaner for the sake of it. Clear dust out of the machine if it's really old. Malwarebytes scan Update drivers. Maybe just reinstall Windows. Any tips for trying to speed up Mac OS? Cheers.

So I picked up an XB270HU and noticed that the "normal" preset was super dark no matter the brightness. Upon checking the service menu, I noticed that the RGB Values for the normal mode were cranked way down to (50,50,50 ish) for whatever reason.... After resetting the colours using the "RGBReset" button, the screen was much brighter, but I noticed that the default values are different to other people's with the same monitor/panel version? My normal RGB preset is "85,89,100" whereas three other monitors I've checked show "93,98,100". I don't have a calibration tool so I'm just trying to get the closest factory settings but not sure what is correct anymore. If the display was pre-calibrated with the RGBReset values then I'd assume the other monitors I checked would have slightly different values to one another but they all have exactly the same compared to mine..?

Don't know if I'm the only person who does this but there must be a better way? (Android->Windows)

I've noticed games still use my dedicated GPU even when my DP cable is connected to the motherboard DisplayPort(which I thought was for integrated graphics only???) How is this even possible, and is there any performance overhead for doing this? I'm guessing G-SYNC wouldn't work though?

I didn't know this was possible but I have nothing connected to my GPU (3060Ti) yet when I launch a game connected only to the integrated graphics on the mobo, the GPU is being used instead of the integrated graphics....How?

So I plugged into the HDMI port on the mobo and it started working. Now I've switched it back to DP (144Hz) it's suddenly starting working... Thanks I guess!?

I want to use the display output on my iGPU (Intel integrated on 10600K) but I can't get a display output when my dGPU is installed? I've enabled iGPU in BIOS and I know something is happening because the Intel Command center got installed but I can't get a display output unless I plug into the dGPU? Taking the GPU out is not an option (I'm mining on it) Specs: 10600K 3060Ti Asus ROG Z490-I Mobo. Cheers.

It's a workaround but I'd ideally want to know what's causing the error in the first place.

Hi, I've been having this issue for a few weeks now, and sometimes I can't even get past the warning screen because it only lets me to go the BIOS instead of booting Windows. I installed CrystalDiskMark and it says both my SSDs as 98% / 100% health. Any ideas? Thanks

I don't know if this is normal but as you can see from the pic there is a gap between the block and the screws below.. Is this normal? Thanks

Not sure what you mean? AMD is taking the fight to Intel in just about every way possible other than swinging fists directly.