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FizzyFantom

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  1. FizzyFantom

    slim 140mm fan?

    FizzyFantom replied to orze's topic in Cooling

    Scythe appear to still make slim fans, and it looks like you actually buy them! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E00ZIU I've only had one Scythe fan, so a small sample size, but it still works after 11 years (knock on wood).
  2. FizzyFantom
    Of course, just thought it could do with a mention similar to the 300 series. Fair enough, I never used any myself.
  3. FizzyFantom
    You can find Dell's diagnostics light support page here (expand 2009-2012): http://www.dell.com/support/article/us/en/04/SLN284978/a-reference-guide-to-the-dell-optiplex-diagnostic-indicators?lang=EN#2009_to_2012 Based on light 3 it seems that it is either motherboard failure or a CPU problem depending on the power light.
  4. FizzyFantom
    As others have pointed out above, you cannot adapt 6pin PCIe power to SATA power, there simply aren't the connections there. A SATA power connector has three different power wires (relative to the neutral wire), +12V, +5V and +3.3V. A 6pin PCIe connector only has one of these, +12V. In contrast a "4pin Molex" has +12V and +5V. I have never met a drive that doesn't use 5V, but also never one that uses 3.3V, hence adapting a "4pin Molex" to SATA power is almost always fine. I think we are struggling with the question. What case do you have? What is the difficulty with using SATA extenders?
  5. FizzyFantom
    Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Nvidia did release 800 series graphics cards. These were a mixture of late Kepler and early Maxwell, mostly put into laptops (with the "m" on the end of course). If I remember correctly some of these 800 series cards made it into OEM only solutions, like off-the-shelf systems from Acer.
  6. FizzyFantom
    That's definitely a miniHDMI on the GPU and an HDMI on the monitor, so you will need an HDMI to miniHDMI cable. If you can I suggest you buy an Amazon Basics cable. They are perfectly good enough, but not overly expensive. EDIT: You won't need to worry about HDMI version at 1080p.
  7. FizzyFantom
    Looks good to me.
  8. FizzyFantom
    If you have an 8 pin on you motherboard and an 8pin on your PSU then plug all 8 in. If the PSU only has a 4 pin , you won't have any choice because it's keyed. It will boot, but you might struggle with overclocking. If the PSU has an 8 pin and your motherboard has a 4 pin then plug either. Both "halves" are identical: http://cdn.overclock.net/a/ac/1000x2000px-LL-ac82eb1d_pinout.png
  9. FizzyFantom
    This wouldn't work since the AC would bring the ambient temperature down, rather than just the PC temperature. The long and short of it is that you cannot get sub-ambient temperatures from simple air or water cooling. You would have to use a condenser setup to do this, similar to Linus' Sub-Zero build here:
  10. FizzyFantom
    They do. I would steer clear of this method for carrying mains electricity. I can't see a reason that it wouldn't work for power, but personally I wouldn't use this as a power solution. Ultimately it's up to you to decide if you think it's safe.
  11. FizzyFantom
    Sorry, I misunderstood what you meant by "speaker cable". Judging by that video you should be able to do this just fine. Make sure to check if you need a ground for the device and run the appropriate number of conductors.
  12. FizzyFantom
    It may be able to handle the mains current, but without a proper fused, switched plug I wouldn't even touch it. Additionally it's only 2 conductors so I would definitely steer clear of using it. Your best solution would be to get a proper wall socket put in near to the device you want to power an use a properly fused grounded plug.
  13. FizzyFantom
    If it is a retail licence then it should work when you put the key into a new PC, deactivating the old one in the process. If that fails you will have to call Microsofts automated phone system and type in the strings of numbers. It's really easy and should be absolutely fine as long as it is a retail licence.
  14. FizzyFantom
    Well that's your answer right there. Look for some that fit the aesthetic you are going for and make sure they have decent performance. As @Enderman said, you can use "airflow" fans with radiators. They might not perform quite as well as Nocuta "static pressure" fans, but the impact won't be particularly much. What kind of fans do you want? What colour? Do you want LEDs or not? Tell us this and we can find some fans that you will like that also perform well
  15. FizzyFantom
    Mods, help, it's another one of these! In all seriousness it doesn't really matter. The "X", the line, the pea-sized-dot, they're all pretty much the same, the thermal compound will spread out with the mounting pressure of the heat sink. I've heard that spreading it can cause air bubbles, but I've never seen "proof" of this issue.
  16. FizzyFantom
    If your budget doesn't allow for an Intel i7 then the FX is a pretty good bet. I have found that the 8320 performs well in gaming and rendering times are very good for the price. If you do get the FX then I suggest you invest in a good motherboard and cooler and make sure to overclock it. That's where most of the value comes from in the FX CPUs. Take a look at this UserBenchmark page: http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-6500-vs-AMD-FX-8320/3513vs1983 Best of luck with whatever you choose
  17. FizzyFantom
    What electrical supply are you planning to hook up? If you are referring to mains (230V or 120V AC) then speaker cable is inappropriate for a variety of reasons including safety. If you want to run a lower voltage at a lower current such as DC power to 12V LEDs or 9V to some other device then you should probably be alright with speaker wire. Look up the gauge of your wire and check what current it can carry to see if it will work. A mains outlet? Absolutely not. You will need to get some proper mains cable with 3 wires and wire it up to a plug to make sure it is safe.
  18. FizzyFantom
    Good to hear that this worked, I wasn't aware that Microsoft allowed use of an old key during installation. Before I have had to do the upgrade to get the clean reinstall to work. Glad you got it fixed and that's good to know for the future, thanks
  19. FizzyFantom
    In my experience Core Temp is very inaccurate for AMD CPUs across the board. You should look at HWMonitor or HWiNFO, they tend to give accurate readings on AMD platforms: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php RealTemp is also reported to be fairly good on AMD CPUs, but I've had the most success with the programs above. Best of luck.
  20. FizzyFantom
    Just to check, did you upgrade to Windows 10 prior to doing the clean install? If you upgrade Windows 10 should licence against your motherboard (like OEM licencing), meaning you won't need to put a key in when you reinstall, it should activate with Microsofts servers against your motherboard. If you had not already upgraded you will need to do this before the clean install. If you still have your HDD then you can simply boot that and do the upgrade, otherwise you will need to reinstall your original OS (Windows 7 or 8.1). Please get back to us with this info, thanks
  21. FizzyFantom
    You shouldn't really use DBAN on an SSD, it can eat up the write cycles of the flash chips. What SSD do you have? The manufacturer will probably have a tool for safely wiping SSDs. I know Adata have one such tool in their SSD Toolbox, but that would require you to connect it to a PC running Windows: http://www.adata.com/en/ss/software-6/
  22. FizzyFantom
    Do you want to upgrade to Windows 10? If so then will need those files, so you could remove some other files from your drive temporarily. If you don't want Windows 10 then you will have to delete the scary-sounding "$Windows." folders from inside your C: drive. After this you will need to remove the update that redownloads them. The tutorial here should help: http://www.extremetech.com/computing/214070-how-to-delete-microsofts-unwanted-windows-10-download-files I did try this on a PC recently and the folders were really stubborn and wouldn't let me take ownership, so I had to resort to a Linux LiveCD to delete them. Please only do this is you are certain you know what you are doing.
  23. FizzyFantom
    I would suggest you purchase CAT5e cables, unless they are the same price as CAT6. Unless you plan to invest in a full 10Gb network then CAT6 won't gain you anything. The only other value of CAT6 you might want is the better insulation for running through electrically noisy environments. CAT6a would probably be a better investment for long or ESD prone runs anyway. If any of that applies to you (or you want to "futureproof" some structured cabling) then go for CAT6a, other wise get CAT5e, it's significantly cheaper (at least where I am).
  24. FizzyFantom
    What do you mean by the structure made by Recover My Files? Are there any files in the partition? Recuva should be able to find the files from that space (finding them as "deleted"), but it needs to be pointed at a drive letter to do it. This would require you to format the partition into something recognizable, which would delete the first part of that partition (not the data within though). If Recover My Files has already made that space into an NTFS partition it's probably worth pointing Recuva to it to see if it finds anything (I think you will have to enable Deep Scan).
  25. FizzyFantom
    Shadowplay is worth looking at for Nvidia cards, it seems to work pretty well. The best free solution in my opinion is Open Broadcast Software. It's free and open source and has lots of great features. It might take some time to get to grips with and lacks an overlay like Fraps (but there may be a plugin for this around, I'm not sure). Alternatively I've heard good things about DXTory, but I haven't used the paid version myself.
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