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ThatAngryGnome

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Profile Information

  • Gender
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System

  • CPU
    4670k
  • Motherboard
    Asrock Z87 Pro3
  • RAM
    8 gigs Corsair Vengence
  • GPU
    Too broke to get one
  • Case
    ThermalTake MS-1 Snow
  • Storage
    64gb SSD+ 500gb Caviar Green
  • PSU
    Cooler Master 600 watt
  • Display(s)
    Some cheap dell display
  • Cooling
    A shit-ton of terribly loud fans
  • Keyboard
    Some cheap dell keyboard
  • Mouse
    Some cheap dell mouse
  • Sound
    Too broke to get one
  1. Color me surprised. I was literally just looking for a second display and ran across the Gemini. Then I load up youtube and see Linus's video on it. Coincidence? I think not. BTW I've used the ASUS MB168 (not the 168+, which is an IPS 1080p, this is a TN 720-ishp). It's not the best thing in the world and I wish more laptop manufacturers made better 13 inch displays for people like me. I'm really interested in the Gemini since it's touchscreen, but I don't know how helpful the battery will be. Some people will love it, but when I'm working with a second display, I'm always plugged in and charging anyways. I'd much rather have a thinner, lighter, and cheaper monitor instead of a bulkier, heavier, and more expensive one with the battery. This is my unapologetic request for anyone in this thread who's looking to sell their monitor - I'm listening.
  2. Thank you all for the responses. As an update, I bid on some HD598s and won them for pretty cheap (~70 bucks), so I guess my decision was made for me. A friend of mine is offering to buy them off of me for $100, so if I'm not impressed by them for whatever reason, I can always sell them and look at other options given here. AFAIK the HD6XX are way flatter in sound, so that's why I disregarded them. I have a friend who has the K7XX and I'll be getting in touch with him to test them out in depth. Thanks for this suggestion. However since I got some 598s for 70 bucks, the price advantage is gone. But I wanna check these out just out of curiosity Any suggestions on a better dac/amp? Schiit has my eyes right now, but I'll admit I haven't paid as much attention to dac/amps as I should have.
  3. I've gotten conflicting reports about the two headphones. Some say the 599s are clearer while the 598s have more bass while others say that the 599s have more bass to the clearer 598s. I want a trusted opinion, and I think the LTT form has me. My setup: Fiio E10K, HD8 DJ, ATH M50xs. I typically listen to more modern music (hip hop, rap, ect...), but I'm going to start experimenting with classical and more instrumental music while I study. 598s run for $140, 599s run for $190. The price difference (~$50) between the two is a wash if the HD599s are the better purchase for me. I've heard that the 599s have much better bass than the 598s. Is that true, and if so, is it because the 598s lack in bass? To me, the looks do not matter at all. These will be used for in house listing. Keep in mind my other two headphones (HD8 DJs have a really strong and prominent low end and I'm sure everyone here knows how the M50s sound). I'm looking at getting a new pair simply because I want something open back. I know that the HD598s can be ran on the E10k easily, but if you're suggesting the 599s, should I consider getting a new amp as well? A friend of mine is getting into headphones and they'd buy my E10k off of me so it's doable. I very much appreicate straight up decisive answers!
  4. Wooo finally upgraded my near 4 year old phone to the Pixel 2XL. I'm really excited to get it in my hands. I'm a headphone fan and always have a pair of over ears on me. But now that I can't use the headphone back anymore, I'm looking for a convenient way to still use my wired headphones. Obviously I'll get an adapted in the box. I was wondering if there's a more elegant solution. I have the HD8DJs that seem to use a funky 2.5mm-like connector (the cable can be used on both my HD8 DJs and my ATH M50xs fwiw), and I'm looking for a cable that has that funky connector on one end (goes into the headphone) and a type C connector on the other end. If that doesn't exist (and I haven't found one myself), then I'm looking for an adapter that can be attached to my cable so that it's always on my headphones and I don't have to worry about losing it
  5. Thank you all for the responses. So I've dug through a bunch of reddit (and LTT) posts, and have done that. Set the prerendered frames to 1 from the nvidia control panel and my max gamtime.maxfps to 76 (monitor runs at 75). It actually did help a ton, but as I'll address later, there are some serious lag spikes that are odd for my system. Maybe someone else visiting this thread from the future can read this and fix their rig like this. The fact that you have a 4690 + 970 and don't report FPS drops below 50 solidifies my concern that something fufu is happening. That's a very great idea, I should try that out. I can try only 8 gigs from exactly one kit that I bought, and test that out and see if it fixes my issues. As for nvidia drivers, I can reinstall them right now (and might as well), though that hasn't worked in the past. Thanks for the suggestions. The fact that your friend with the same CPU averages higher FPS makes me concerned that this is a hardware (probably not software) issue. I'd expect a 4670k to handle a 64 player map. It's constantly maxed at 100% though, so I'm very confused as to why. I'll post back with results when I have a solid 5 hours of gaming after some tweaks.
  6. Okay it's been a week (or more, sorry school had me caught up) I took out my graphics card and also gave my system a good dust down. It didn't make much of a difference If anything, there was a lagspike where my FPS dropped to SINGLE digits for a solid 10 seconds. Although I have no "scientific" results, the experience was fairly the same (FPS varies from 60-75, but drops to 35-45 a bunch, and even lower at times). The next plan of action is to do a clean install of Windows. I'm not too optimistic, as I've done a clean install of the system twice before (reinstalling BF1 of course) and the issue persists. I plan to swap out my RAM for another kit*, and if that doesn't work, I have a Haswell CPU (4400, so it's worse than my 4670k) that I can swap out as well an test to see if it's a CPU problem. Finally, I have another Z97 mobo so I can check my mobo too. I didn't mention this in my OP, but I've played Witcher 3 on near max settings on this rig and it's worked flawlessly. I've never had problems with that game, so I think this may just be an issue with BF1. It's crazy though, I expect the game to run much smoother on a rig like mine. I'll probably have to wait and do this much later on, but if I remember, I'll post back results on this thread for your curiosity. Thanks for all the help! *My RAM is 16GB, 4x4 kits. The two 4x2 kits, while the exact same model number and all, were bought separately, so they may have been from a different batch.
  7. Thank you for that solution. I'll try it out and report back to you. If an i5 ivybridge with a 970 doesn't get the spikes I get, then there's definitely a problem. Keep in mind though, everything for me is set to high or ultra (I have tuned down the really demanding settings like AA of course).
  8. I have an SMT520, and recently, the screen does not work. It's weird because if I force reboot it using the power and volume keys, the screen will be perfect. But the moment I turn off the screen (put the tablet to sleep), the screen won't turn back on. It stays black, but the LED's for the capacitive buttons turn on and I know the tablet is working since I hear lockscreen sounds and can "operate" the tablet without the screen. I've reset the device (through the settings) and have also flashed a custom ROM onto it in hope that this is a software thing. The issue persists. I don't know if this is a hardware issue, because usually, issues like these can be fixed by resetting the tablet (the screen is functional). I wonder if some motherboard connector got loose? I'm willing to perform surgery on the device to check (I already have, actually). If anyone has ideas, please let me know!
  9. Using NVidia's FPS overlay to monitor FPS It does it from the start. I mentioned in my OP that over time (ie playing Operations), the performance seemed to get worse. I've made a fix if it was a memory leak, and I'll spend the next few days seeing if that helped. But from the get go, I'll start off getting around 60 FPS, going up to 75, going down to 50, 60, 45, 75, 30 (just one rough example of my most recent game). I realize that my CPU will be working hard, but I didn't expect it to make lag drops that I can notice, and that really can get bothersome in game.
  10. Just did that. I didn't notice anything different, but in my two hours of testing, there didn't seem to be any performance degradation. If there was performance degradation, it seems to have gone. Still, there were frame drops and my CPU was max'd at 100, with my FPS fluctuating
  11. Hmmm did some research, turns out Killer Ethernet (comes standard with many MSI boards) is known for memory leaks. I'll give this a shot and report back in my OP, thanks!
  12. Hey y'all, I know this has been posted before, but I wanted to post it again in light of new patches. BF1 has ran pretty underwhelmingly for me: Here's my rig: 4670k OC'd to 4.24ghz @ 1.22V, CPU cores unparked. Cooled with NZXT X61, never even hits 70 degrees GTX 1080 (Asus STRIX), not OC'd 16GB Corsair RAM @ 1600Mhz Corsair 850W PSU, MSI Gaming 7 mobo, HyperX Savage 500GB SSD. First order of business, the reason why my CPU is rather old while I'm running a GTX1080 is because I upgraded a 3 year old computer, and decided the CPU didn't have to be replaced. For BF1, I usually get 75+ FPS (I've capped the FPS to 75 to help my issues). However, in intense scenes or after an hour of gaming, I get FPS drops to the low 30's at times. It's very bothersome. My CPU is almost always maxed at 100%. I don't know if Shadowplay effects my CPU usage that much. I was wondering if anyone else has had the same problems as me, and how they fixed it. I don't think I want to upgrade (I'd have to buy a new mobo since buying a Haswell i7 doesn't sound like a smart idea at the moment). The cost would be upwards of 500 bucks for an 7th gen i7 and a mobo, which would theoretically fix my problems.
  13. $30000+ of harddrives and all of LTT's history on a server? Better drill into the watercooling rad on top of it and epoxy it shut! Seriously guys wtf! Edit just watched him replace it. JK guys thank god
  14. So uh I'm pretty much inspired from this build to add a little rock to my build (nothing crazy like Luke, but just as an accent). Where can I find some red crystal like rock, like what Luke had but not amethyst crystal?
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