cesarbg

Thanks. I decided to delete some software I had probably overloading the system and it worked. I don't know which one it was, but I deleted about 20 unused programs and now it works flawlessly.

So, I record my webcam (Logitech C920) from the Logitech Software or via OBS, and it 'skips' some moments. I record myself speaking, and some miliseconds are skipped in both video and audio. This also happens when I record an activity from OBS, for example, video gaming sessions or instructional videos. And the thing is that it also happens when I record screen via Windows Gaming app for Xbox (or whatever the name is). So, it does not seem to be software related, but hardware. My specs are: Ryzen 5 1400, 16GB 2666 MHZ, 240GB Kingston SSD, GTX1050Ti. Logitech C920, Blue Ice Snowball mic. This problem is recent. I have recorded for some time, and there have not been any problems. Any of you have had this problem? I have installed several programs, and I cannot recall if any has affected my work otherwise. Any help will be appreciated.

Yeah. It's 600 MB but I really need to have those files on the go. And yes, the inside links that should take me to the next page just sends me a message that says that the file could not be found, even when it is there. I'm guessing the file system in Android does not work as in PC/Mac, and I cannot access any other page if not manually from the files. Images also do not display. Its like the "website" is completely broken. And I'm guessing it's the file name or system.

Anyone?

Hey. I need some help. I have a CDROM with a website structure that was meant to be used from the CD drive. I have ripped it and transfered it to USB and laptop. But what I need is to have it in my Android (Moto G6 Plus) for portable use. I tried FTP server transfer to a private server, but it is much too slow, and the complete files will take up to 12 hrs to upload, and constant disconnections have stopped me from doing it. I have had to restart the process several times from scratch. So that is not an option. I transferred the files via USB to use the "Files" app in Android, but the internal links are broken, and images cannot be displayed (while in PC are visible and functioning). Is there a way to 'package' the complete website/files and visualize the files internally? Do I need a special app? Is there a way to transfer to root folders and make it work? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance

I would appreciate some help or ideas. I've had this Win 10 Pro PC for about one year. No problems at all. I have all the drivers installed, for what I consider is all the devices. Device manager shows missing driver for "Microsoft Mouse PS/2", but when I try to update it it says it is updated. The problem is caused, I think, by a Cooler Master Devastator 3 Mouse. I turn the PC on after being off for a while (hours or days), and shortly after I move the mouse and boom!, blue screen. Then I reset it and I can work for hours without interruption. Why do I consider it is the mouse? It (and sometimes the keyboard too), flicker, turn off and on and work again. Could be USB , but I've changed them from USB portt and the problem persists. No other USB devices seem to be affected, though I don't use them so often. Any suggestions on what I could do to find the problem? Screen capture of the error at the end. Thanks i advance.

Wow, a carbon copy of the real WAN show.

Any TP Link model you'd suggest that could help this to happen? It's easier here to get TP Link, but another brand could also do the trick. Thanks! Thanks for your help! Could you suggest one TPLink router that could get me closer to the speed? Thanks! Which router would you suggest? Which AC would you recommend that could get me closer to those speeds? Thanks to all!

So, let me explain and hope some of you could help me solve this problem. I recently contracted and installed a 300Mbps and with 30Mbps upload internet connection via optic fiber that also provides telephone and HD TV from TotalPlay, a Mexican ISP (I live in Mexico). The moment they finished with the installation, I was told to verify the Internet speed, which I did by using my phone (Moto G6 Plus). It was getting barely 36Mbps,and they told me I could only get the 300Mbps via Ethernet. I checked and it was correct, I was getting 260-320 Mbps, which was ok by me, I know I won't get 300 steady. Since then, I get the speed via wired internet. But all my Wi-Fi devices get roughly 30-43 Mbps (see pics below), even the same pc I plug it wired: Moto G6 Plus iPad Mini 1 Windows PC (Wi-Fi, TPLink TL-WN781ND 150 Mbps adapter) Windows PC with ethernet The modem they provided is a Huawei HG8245H: I have tried the following to see if the modem is the problem: Connected a TP Link router via ethernet, and measured the internet from the TPLink modem via ethernet, getting the same almost 300Mbps result, improving a bit with wireless (over 40Mbps) Changed the channel and frequency in the original Huawei modem, tried with different channels, using the ones not cluttered in my area (not many anyways), and chaning the channel width from AUTO to 20 and 40 Mhz The SSID mode is in "802.11b/g/n" Working mode is set to "Normal", but there is "Anti-interference" mode (not tried) TX Power set to 100% I have reset the modem to factory settings, but I still get the same results. Could it be that the devices cannot get the total speed of 300Mbps because of the Wi-fi chips? I doubt this, as my university connection is almost the same (200Mbps) and have been able to make it work with my Moto G6 Plus phone and a MacBook Air that also has problems here. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Not necessarily. If you jump two non related pins or solder points, you could short out a circuit (hence the name) and burn a resistance or capacitor.

Silly suggestion ,but, have you installed the drivers?

Maybe a short circuit? Check there is not metal making a short in the vecinity of the audio connectors.

Also make sure the cooler mechanism is functioning:

But you have to twist them, right? That's what I meant by "screwing". Should have said twist instead hahah.

First remove cooler. Then 'unscrew' the screws by turning clockwise. PLace the cooler in the MB and screw by tuning counterclockwise. Begin with a pattern of X: 1 3 COOLER 4 2 This should keep the cooler steady.