InsufficientSleep

to be able to stream with max fps/settings on my main computer and capture it with the second computer without sending the NDI traffic over my router.

Hi, not sure where to post this so I'll try it here. I'm trying to stream a bit with a dual PC setup over NDI instead of a capture card. I see that mobo's like the Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero have two ethernet ports, 1 and 2.5Gbps. My question is, Can I link my two computers together over the 1Gbps port to skip the switch / router and connect the 2.5Gbps port to my router as normal ?

Fixed it. Not sure what fixed it though. All I did was to re-seat the GPU for the 2nd time, used /scannow without seeing anything bad and 2 x DDU. I can now run games and my monitors works at max resolution and Hz

Hi, My system crashes and reboots whenever I try starting a game. I have tried every game I have and the only game that sometimes starts up is DOOM and Doom Eternal. FFXIV is really bad and crashes as soon as I hit play. I have used the G9 monitor without problems since May running it at max settings , but I wanted to add a second monitor. As soon as I added the second monitor it started to crash. When I disconnect everything it works fine again. I can use both screens just fine as long as I don't start a game. I have tried a few different monitors, reinstalled the GPU driver , switched to different HDMI / DP-cables, tried new PSU cables. Checked the power draw up to the crash moment but it don't even jump over idle on the PSU before it crashes ( iCue 144W + - some on idle) . Also tried with G-sync on and off, different resolutions and Hz. I tried running my PSU in Single rail config too with no luck. Is my 2080ti just too weak or is something else going on ? I deleted the event log and did a few more tries, these screenshots are the only error I get. Monitors: Samsung G9 odyssey LC49G95T 5120 x 1440 60/120/240Hz Acer xb240H 1920x1080 60Hz (dont even matter what monitor I use as my 2nd ) System Info( mostly from from Aida64 ) Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Home 10.0.19041.630 (Win10 20H1 [2004] May 2020 Update) Computer Type ACPI x64-based PC DirectX DirectX 12.0 Motherboard/ CPU: CPU Type 12-Core AMD Ryzen 9 3900X, 4500 MHz (45 x 100) Motherboard Name Asus ROG Crosshair VI Extreme (3 PCI-E x1, 3 PCI-E x16, 2 M.2, 4 DDR4 DIMM, Audio, Video, Gigabit LAN, WiFi) Motherboard Chipset AMD X370, AMD K17.7 FCH, AMD K17.7 IMC System Memory 32694 MB DIMM3: G Skill F4-3200C16-16GTRS 16 GB DDR4-3200 DDR4 SDRAM (16-18-18-38 @ 1600 MHz) DIMM4: G Skill F4-3200C16-16GTRS 16 GB DDR4-3200 DDR4 SDRAM (16-18-18-38 @ 1600 MHz) BIOS Type AMI (12/16/2019) BIOS Version 7704 GPU / Display: ZOTAC GeForce RTX 2080 Ti ArcticStorm GeForce Game ready driver 457.30 Video Adapter GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB) Video Adapter GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB) Video Adapter GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB) Video Adapter GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (11 GB) 3D Accelerator nVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Monitor Acer XB240H [24" TN LCD] (T1YEE0014200) Monitor Generic PnP Monitor [NoDB] (H4ZN600222) PSU: Corsair HX850i Pic's, this was after 1 crash but it's the same stuff that shows up over and over. Grateful for any help : )

What light / code does it get stuck on and what mobo do you have ?

I will use 2 x 8 pin all the way from now on anyways. Just wanted to give people a small eye opener ?

Connectors and pins looks fine . Just a bit crispy in one end ?

Yes it was watercooled. I had to install the Vega card again since the 2080ti I got didn't work. The company that installed the water block messed up... so much for trying to save time letting other people do the job lol. Anyways, I just did an auto overclock since I don't remember my old OC numbers. After the auto overclock and during a Time spy run it used 211W at max peak according to the Radeon Software.

CableMod , I don't remember if it was the Mesh or Flex type When one cable turnes into two cables I call it a splitter , because the cable splits ?. But you are probably right ?

I'm just posting this as a heads-up to everyone using a cable splitter. I work with electronics everyday and should have known not to use a splitter to power my gpu while overclocking. The reason I used it to begin with is because it was the only cable I had at hand at the moment and I thought " I'll replace it later when I start turning stuff up " . So yeah... I forgot all about it until I was taking my PC apart before Xmas. I'll let the picture speak for itself. Corsair HX850i powering a OC Vega 64 card with a single 8 pin to 2x8 pin splitter.

Any led lights like boot, vga, cpu, dram or postcodes it get's stuck on when it tries to start ?

Thanks everyone. So CPU first then . ?

Hi everyone. It's time to upgrade again and I cant decide were to start. Should I upgrade my CPU or GPU first? I mainly use my computer for gaming and occasionally some streaming. I almost ordered a new GPU last night but thought I should check with you guys first to get a second ( or more ) opinion. It stands between getting a 2080TI or the Ryzen 9 3900x This is what I have today Mobo : x370 Asus ROG Crosshair VI Extreme CPU : Ryzen 7 1800x OC to 4.1 GHz GPU : Asus ROG Strix Vega 64 Ram : 32Gb 3200MHz G.Skill Trident Z Royal PSU : Corsair HX850i

Borderlands

Tom Clancy's Division 2.

So I have a game with the option to turn on DX12. Without DX12 enabled my system runs at around 65c. With DX12 enabled my system spins up the fans and the temp's go up and stops at around 85c I'm running a full water cooling setup with overclocked Ryzen 1800x 4GHz and a overclocked Vega64 with a slight undervolting. so my question is , do DX12 makes your components run warmer or is there something wrong ?

If you have been thinking about the i5 7600k I guess your budged is around $300, is that correct ?

Updated my loop. I had clear petg in my first loop and a single cpu water block and radiator Current parts : Case : Thermaltake VIEW 71 TG. Motherboard : ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Extreme. CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 1800X. GPU : ASUS RX Vega64 STRIX OC 8GB. RAM : 64GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance 2666MHz. Fan's : 3 x Corsair ML140 PRO rgb and 3x Corsair ML120 PRO rgb Storage : 1 x Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD and 1 x 2TB Crucial MX500 SSD PSU : Corsair HX850i with cablemod cables. Custom water cooling with hard tubing. Ek monoblock and GPU block. XSPC fittings and radiators. Bitspower tubes. Orange because of Ryzen ?

Hi all. I can't deside on my fan directions for my top fans. I want positiv air pressure because the case have an air gap on almost 10mm between the glass panels and the case frame. The case is the TT view 71. In the front I have a 280 radiator with 2 x 140mm fans pulling air in. I have one 140mm exhaust fan. The top rad is a 350 with 3 x 120mm fans. I kind of want to have those to pull air in too to get a relativ dust free case, but will it get too hot in there? What do you guys think? I'm not done building so swapping the fans around is easy now.

You can read up on the chipsets here https://www.amd.com/en/products/chipsets-am4

thanks ?

Hi all. I am about to start a new project / pc build, but this time i'm gonna to be on Discord guiding my fiance who live in another country on how to put it all together with the help of a web cam. All the parts are shipped to her and so on. The building part won't be the problem........ I think, but the software / driver side will take some more effort to get up to date in my mind. Is there a solid program or tool that will detect and install all driveres for you? I usually go to all the manufacture websites and find them manually ,but a tool for it would be great this time. I found something called "Snappy Driver Installer" here on the forum, anyone used it before? anything better than that one? Hopefully it will all work so she get's a stable and up to date gaming rigg. All help appreciated ?

You are saying that you took one ram stick out. Did you try it with only the one you took out too? Just so other people dont have to look for it 0d - Reserved for future AMI SEC error codes 06 - Microcode loading 03 - System agent initialization before microcode loading OE - Microcode not found

So I have tried about everything, I even went out and made a few more test videos. 1080p looks blurry on all of the videos after uploading it to YouTube. The best quality and the least amount of blur is when I upload in something higher than 1080p. So guess I'm gonna start record and upload in 4K from now on.

I will keep testing different bit rates and settings. I have tried stuff from 10Mbps to 50Mbps with variable bitrate and with constant bitrate.