Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About Pekoms

  • Title
  1. Motherboard Asus B350 Strix CPU Ryzen 5 1600 RAM Patriot Viper 4 3200mhz 16gb PSU Corsair RM750x (2018) VOLTAGES: DRAM 1.42 VDDCR SOC 1.2 VTTDDR 0.725 (default 0.71) VPP_MEM 2.525 (default 2.5) VDDP 0.9 (default) CLDO VDDP default 0.7 (default) Had a lot of problems stabilizing my RAM at Stilt's "EXTREME" profile for shitty Hinyx RAM, but I think I'm close, errors dropped a lot in frequency. However, before I continue I need to know more about the last 4 values (the first two I know of from GamersNexus). Information for overclocking these values is scarce, I need to know safe parameters so I don't fry something. How much higher can I go, and should I touch the last 2 ? What are the last 3 for ?
  2. There is a chance that the Hard Drive may be broken as well, but I didn't have time for thorough testing, and I did test the system with it unplugged. The GPU is running strong at 1850mhz with VRAM at 9600mhz. The PSU readings in HWInfo are within parameters. Also, they can't really shut me down because I'm in the EU, laws are stricter here, and I can always apply a complaint to the Customer Protection Institution, but now I'm just thinking whether I should accept the Motherboard and fire up testing on it, or just stand my ground. After all I did threaten them once.
  3. As I said, the new CPU seems stable, also, don't have a water cooler, but plan on buying a decent air cooler when I know the coast is clear, but I can't buy another Motherboard. This situation just sucks so much, I just don't know what the hell should I do.
  4. Build: CPU - Ryzen 5 1600 Motherboard - ASUS STRIX B350-F GAMING RAM - Patriot Viper 4 Series 16GB DDR4 3200MHz CL16 Dual Channel Kit GPU - ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 Ti STRIX GAMING A8G SSD - ADATA SX8200 240GB HDD - Seagate BarraCuda 2TB (ST2000DM008) PSU - Corsair RMx Series RM750x 2018 Background: From the 1st moment I started using the PC I had issues with it. BIOS Stuttering/Freeze, Boot Menu Freeze, Windows Stuttering/Freeze, Blue Screen (especially when I ran the RAM at advertised speeds) Sound Stuttering etc. I decide to test the system, best I could without replacement parts. Ended up sending the RAM, CPU and Motherboard to Warranty, ended up having both my RAM and CPU replaced, while the motherboard came back with an OK test mark. I reassemble the PC. It's worse than the 1st time. Take everything I said 1st, and double the frequency of the problems, add to that the fact that my Windows got corrupt multiple times, one becoming irreparable, and my USB stick got corrupted a total of 3 times when running the RAM at its advertised frequency. I go on then to retest the components. MemTest86 both sticks of RAM at advertised speeds in slots A2B2 (recommended in the manual). 500 errors in less than 1 minute. I then test both sticks in slots A1B1. Same thing. I then painstakingly test the sticks separately in all 4 slots. A1, A2, many erros, B1, 0 errors, wait, what in the hell ? B2, errors. Ok, go on to test the other stick of RAM in the same fashion, discovered that this stick does errors faster, but again, A1A2B2 many errors, B1 no errors ? I double checked, wait, now the system doesn't boot, the LED near the RAM gets stuck on ORANGE (instead of going through orange/red, green and finally, white where the system boots). This doesn't make any sense. I put it in different slots, sometimes it made my system fail to boot, and kept failing regardless of slot, until I changed the slot, where if it were to work was chance based. Only this stick had this issue. Ok, B1 seems to be magical for some reason, inserted both sticks into it, tested for many hours, 0 errors, running at advertised speeds in XMP. I take the decision to send back the RAM, and also the Motherboard since I believe it wasn't tested right the first time. Oh, and I forgot to mention, the new CPU seems to be stable at 4ghz, but gets super hot. Forward to yesterday, I get the answer that the RAM was faulty, again, but the Motherboard isn't ? (even if I told them all the issue and to test them in pair) Sadly, this is where things get problematic, and where I get to my question. Being drawn out by the small prices, I bought from a company with a poor track record (yeah I know, I'm an idiot), and can't help but think that they're trying to fuck me over. I decided to tell them that I won't accept the package, they repeated to me that the Motherboard came with Test OK. I am no longer in the return period. My questions are: Should I stand my ground or not ? Am I wrong in believing that they failed to test the Motherboard right, again, maybe even maliciously ? Is it possible that all these problems were easily explained by the RAM, and I mean, all, the sound, the bios, the boot menu, the windows, etc. ? Should I purse this war against them ? (I told them that I won't accept anything other than a changed Motherboard or my money back ) I'm confused as hell, and I'm tired, this whole process ate a month of my time...
  5. ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Gaming XGIGABYTE AORUS B450 PROASUS STRIX B350-F GAMINGDon't recommend me any other motherboards. Please, don't take this as me being rude, I'm bound by budget, pricing in my country, and current sales, plus other weird factors so these are literally the best options I could find, I'm certain.I want the best motherboard for Overclocking the CPU, the RAM and the GPU in as stable of a fashion as possible. I have a Ryzen 5 1600 (that can do 4ghz), and yeah, I know this is overkill to being with, it's a complicated situation, due to my 1st motherboard breaking in warranty and me wanting high quality audio.
  6. I know it's not recommende, but I can't avoid it, the PC is in the other side of the room. I plan on using a 1.5/2 meter, thick extension cord. Is it okay ? Will it ruin my UPS ? The UPS is a Kstar Micropower Micro 1200
  7. Asking for a friend. System: Motherboars Asus Strix B350F CPU Ryzen 5 1600 RAM Patriot Viper 4 16gb 3200mhz SSD Adata SX8200 240gb HDD Seagate 2TB ST2000DM008 GPU Asus Strix 1070 Ti Advanced Edition PSU Corsair RM750X (2018) CPU seems stable at 4ghz - 1.35625 volts, did a Prime95 Blend test (cause Small FFT's run way too hot), and it ran at 85 degrees in an hour, but I kind of expected that on Stock Cooler. However, at 3.6ghz - 1.3 volts it runs at 84 degrees in Prime95 Small FFT's, 3.7 ghz going all the way to 89 degrees. (Stock cooler, Premium Thermal Paste - Cooler Master MasterGel Maker Nano, and yes, it was applied correctly, pea size, which I had to check because I had to disassemble the PC) Is this normal, or could it be influenced by a faulty motherboard ? Why faulty ? Well, the build was really unstable, and 3 components were sent to Warranty, the Motherboard, CPU and RAM. Motherboard was checked as being fine, while the CPU and RAM were replaced. However, when the new components came, the system felt even more unstable, me being certain of two things. The new kit of RAM being another faulty one, and the motherboard wasn't tested the right way (both sticks of RAM give 0 errors on ONLY the B1 slot of the Motherboard, but the stick of RAM that seems to make errors faster that the other has a chance to prevent the system from booting, regardless of slot, the LED near the RAM getting stuck on Orange) My friend already plans on buying a good cooler, since 4ghz is worth it, I just wanted to make sure if this is normal behavior or if it's influenced by the motherboard. A cheap™ but good cooler seems to be the Scyther Mugen 5 Rev. B. Do you think it can handle 4ghz while keeping the CPU under 75 degrees celsius ?
  8. Pekoms

    Help me choose between these 9 cooler's

    Thank you for your help. I might end up buying the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B, but I'm curious, you said the be quiet! Dark Rock 4 is from a premium manufacturer AND it can have its fans moved to the side. Wouldn't that make it a better option ?
  9. Pekoms

    Help me choose between these 9 cooler's

    Thermalright Macho 120 Rev.A (53$) Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT (80$, it went off sale so this one is a bit over the budget) Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B (55$) Scythe Ninja 5 (67$) be quiet! Dark Rock 4 (75$) ID-Cooling SE-207 (64$) Cryorig H7 (47$)Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi (74$)Cryorig H7 Plus (59$) The RAM is Patriot Viper 4 Series 16GB DDR4 3200MHz (PV416G320C6K) I want to ask, if you don't see a cooler on the list you gave me, does that make it bad ? For example the ID-Cooling SE-207 is pretty new and looks amazing on paper, but because it's a Chinese Cooler you can never be safe, and reviews are scarce.
  10. System: Asus B350-F Strix Ryzen 5 1600 (that can do 4ghz all-core but runs ludicrously hot) Deepcool Kendomen Ti The options: Thermalright Macho 120 Rev.A Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B (+1 Fan) Scythe Ninja 5 be quiet! Dark Rock 4 ID-Cooling SE-207 Cryorig H7 Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi Cryorig H7 Plus I want the best overclocking performance, but please, don't recommend me other coolers. The list above is limited by case height, budget/pricing and availability in my country. Thank you for your time and help.
  11. Which one is better ? I did find this comparison, but I don't know what to make it, since the PB is older. https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/comparison/73eb6680