toobladink

I've recently received a used card that a friend upgraded from. It's an EVGA 1070 Ti FTW2. He originally bought it to play shooters and stuff but he said just a little after the warranty expired it started acting all weird. It got to the point where games would crash as soon as you open them. Whatever, I'm not gonna create a big anecdote here. Problems: It can still do little things, but as soon as it goes under load it just quits. Sometimes it makes coil whine, sometimes it doesnt, sometimes it doesn't even sound like coil whine. I get all sorts of error messages from different games all the time. It's never consistent so I never know what to do. I will often get several different error messages from the same game when I try running it again. For example, CoD MW loves to throw out the following error codes which are either related to RAM or GPU. Sometimes the code will be related to having to reseat them, sometimes the error code means DirectX crashed, etc. Despite getting error message unrelated to the GPU, I feel confident it is my GPU. When I switch it out for my own GPU, everything still works like I would expect. What it can still do: So it's really just used in an office computer right now. All the video processing it does is either for zoom, Old School Runescape (an old java based game... so literally no load), discord, and other basic things. It pretty much can't game and that's why I want to try and fix this thing. What can I do? I feel like I really don't know where to start. At first, I just opened up MSI afterburner and tried to let it find the best overclock. I was able to play some CoD and then it quit after about five minutes. No error message or anything. Is there some sort of program I can run to help find the most stable settings for my GPU? I don't want the most stable overclock. I want the most stable settings. Am I SoL? Not a big deal for me as it is for my friend - but his stimulus was spent on a new GPU some months back and he's just had this sitting around because he didn't feel right trying to sell it to anyone. Anyways... would love to try and figure out how we can get this thing working. I am obviously on the most up to date drivers.

For everyone wondering why I need an ethernet input or something - my house is a little weird. We have the router in the center, but there's a hallway that goes out to our garage that is definitely not up to code. There are two metal doors that we have closed during the winter months. To get a good signal, the two roommates that lived out there would just open up the doors. It would go from like 5mb/s with ridiculous packet loss to about 50 mb/s. I understand extender placement - but like I said, the layout is weird. Imagine having a garage detached from your house and you need wifi in there for video calls. That's basically what my situation is. Okay so I guess I'm basically looking for a second router. The easiest way for me to do this (and hopefully the most affordable) is to connect something from my router, as it is quite far from my modem. The modem is basically forced to be in the basement because of the way it was wired (super short) and our basement is a glorified dungeon made for people who are 4 ft tall - basically just gross as hell. So, we have like a 50 ft cat6 cable going into the router from the modem and it's placed in the center of the actual house itself. Now imagine I want to get wifi in my garage. I was imagining buying an extender, which we already have placed in the living room to help give a better connection upstairs, and this thing (https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Dual-Band-Extender-Repeater-RE6300/dp/B015Z3OD22/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=linksys+re6300&qid=1587406011&s=electronics&sr=1-2) works great for that. But it wants to boost only a wireless signal - if we plug it into the router, the signal is just as bad, making me think that it wants to only boost a wireless signal. Having it boost a wireless signal is not an option, there is not an outlet in a good spot that allows for this. I would prefer to keep budget as small as possible. I really don't need anything more than 50mb/s down or something. Thanks for all the input so far! Funny you mention a second router - the old tenants left one. We just haven't found a way to use it yet. The solution you posted seems to be outside my budget a little bit, but can you help me understand how I could set up a second network? Do you have any guides? The best option would be to plug it into our current router, but we've tried that and our router doesn't really like having a router plugged into an "output" on it. But we do know it works because we had it hooked up to our modem previously and we were using that for a week or so.

I am looking to solve a wireless connection issue in our house. We need to get wifi in a certain area pretty bad, and the only solution I can think of is a wifi extender that takes an ethernet input. However, most of the ones I'm finding online are ethernet outputs. Does a product like this exist? Or am I SOL? We have a budget of like $50, but any product suggestions are welcome. However, we are not looking for something that supports "the fastest connection known to man," just something that can support video livestreams (like zoom calls).

But my SSD already had windows installed, and I've successfully been able to boot into it. So will I have to plug in a USB and select that as the boot device, and then try and install Windows like that? Update: Unplugged all my drives just to see if I can get into the BIOS. Cleared CMOS. Didn't work. Gonna try reseating components. Update 2: Reseated GPU and it worked! If any weird issue persist, I will wipe my boot SSD. Right now I have the chance to copy everything I need over to my larger drive so I'm going to do that first. Final update (March 20th 2020): Reseating the GPU did it. Was able to get rid of the watermark by using Windows troubleshooter, have had no weird issues. Looks like you don't have to reinstall Windows when replacing the motherboard or anything!

Any idea how I can remedy this or how I can wipe my SSD? Perhaps even try to get important info off of it?

First, I want to say that I was not wise. I did little to no research on what I should have done to replace my motherboard (it was the only component switched out). I got very eager and just went for it, expecting everything to work. Oops.. Anyways, let me walk you through the past 24 hours: I replaced the motherboard on my system. Boot it up, get into windows but stuff is weird. I can't open chrome (I can't remember the exact error, but it was like a side-by-side error or something) and I got worried. Figured, "well just in case, I'll see if my drivers are up to date, it's been a few weeks since I've used the PC so I bet Nvidia has something new" And they did, so I tried updating drivers. I got into my first boot loop - this happened when Nvidia tries to restart the PC during installation. This was fixed by holding down the power switch and then pressing it to boot again. Then I figured, "Well I just won't install the drivers from Geforce experience" and surprisingly it worked. I was playing Call of Duty with my friends the entire night - it was great. (BTW, I always use DDU before installing any GPU drivers now. I don't know if that was part of the problem) Here I am the next morning, thinking my PC will work. It's boot looping and I don't know what to try this time. The CPU fan ramps up, and then down, and there's a light that switches off for like a half second on the motherboard. The motherboard is an ASUS TUF X570. What should I do? Reformat my boot drive and pray?

Turns out actually bluetooth works fine - likely that analog output is trashed on the sound card or whatever processes sound. Currently have no idea what could cause this, my thoughts are maybe a cap blew so the lower frequencies are being accidentally filtered out. But that's so vague - there are plenty of electrical components that could fail, and I shouldn't really say that since so many fundamental filters are just a handful of components. Bluetooth sounded the same because I think there weren't any up to date drivers or something. We never tested bluetooth after doing a bunch of stuff to the system so it's hard to say what fixed it. Using bluetooth will be fine, for now

Yes, temp seems to be normal. Can't say I've seen it get above 70C when I've monitored it. The part that throws me off is that I get the same error codes with a Ryzen 2400G. I own a corsair CX550. Should be more than enough I hope

How do you know it's the MB? Is the power delivery just utter shit, or is the support for RAM faster than 2133 really just "support" meaning that it can boot into windows with faster speeds, but that's it? (I hope that makes sense) I'll definitely look into buying a new one, I've had it on my mind for a while too. Might wait for B550, but not sure yet. I'll look into that! That doesn't sound like too bad of an idea, especially since nothing I do often really maxes out my CPU. Yes, but that doesn't exactly get rid of GPU related error codes. I still get them - but I would definitely say less often than RAM related when I do that. Thanks for the replies everyone!

After crashing in games and intense programs for months thinking "oh it's just CoD this game sucks" I found out that downclocking my RAM and GPU gives me a huge improvement in stability, meaning I can typically play for a few hours compared to just 2 minutes. However, I still crash from time to time (and get the same error codes as before, making me think this may be an ongoing issue for me). So my question is, Is there some sort of utility out there that I can use that will help me find the most stable settings possible for my hardware? I have mostly only played CoD, but since I have quite a nice computer, I am getting into editing videos for school comedy sketches, but can't get anything done because programs keep crashing. Please note, any other game that's typically easy to run, like CSGO and Rocket league don't crash, but Fortnite, BFV, CoD, Destiny 2, Doom, and Dirt Rally all crash at some point. But like an older game, like Dirt 3, doesn't crash. I ask this because EVGA has this overclock software that like finds the most stable overclock for your GPU. But.. I only get stability when I underclock. I have a feeling finding software that could fix the RAM issues might be the most challenging part, as there is a lot more associated with that System specs, in case anyone is curious: EVGA 1070Ti FTW2, downclocked 150MHz on core and 250Mhz on memory Corsair Vengeance 3000MHz RAM, XMP disabled so defaulted to 2133MHz (via motherboard) Gigabyte AB-350N motherboard Ryzen 3800x Also note, that I was using a Ryzen 2400G previously and ran into the same issues. Definitely not a power delivery issue, as all error codes I get seem to be DirectX or DRAM related.

My friend recently picked up a refurbished laptop online and the audio is horrible. Bluetooth headphones, wired headphones, and the speakers all sound terrible. I understand the speakers aren't great, and they're never used, but the rest is worrying. Let me describe the audio quality a little bit - No headphones are able to reproduce low frequencies. Everything else sounds washed out and not as crisp. For example, a snare won't sound as crisp or instantaneous. Other than reinstalling drivers, what else can I check? Is there a way to see if perhaps it's a hardware problem and if there is a way to fix it? Warranty is out of the question, unfortunately.

Update: Haven't played the game basically since I last posted. With every update possible, I have been retrying it. I hate this. I feel so alienated because I am literally the only person in my house that can't play. When everyone logs on to play, I can only play RuneScape or something. I'm at a serious loss here on what to try

I want to know your favorite way to record some quality audio on windows 10. Looking for something that can make some quality recordings that won't leave me with some obscure files that I have to open with a niche program. Currently, I think audacity seems to be the best. Any other contenders?

I just want to pick out this reply - I recently bought the H4xx from massdrop and hoped I was going to peak when I turned up the volume, but I didn't. I knew nothing about open-back headphones, and if I could choose again, I would choose closed back. When playing games, the only thing that takes me out of it is when suddnely, the heater kicks on, or the neighbors are out playing in their yard, etc. Even if you think your space is quiet - I encourage you to sit in absolute silence for two minutes. Notice if you hear anything, and then decide. Because they're great headphones in a quiet space, but it needs to be nearly dead silent. Like, to the point where you can't hear anything outside. Also, if you decide on these headphones, definitely an amp AND a new cable. The cable that comes with them could be better. And they crave an amp. Anyways, I can't speak for speakers too much.

In case anyone finds this in the future: It mysteriously went away. I believe it had something to do with power - as the sound system was plugged into the same powerstrip as my PC and monitor, and I'm not sure the powerstrip liked that too well. I say this because I rearranged my room and plugged them into a lone socket in the wall and now I can blast these babies like I was before. However.. very confused how this only started happening recently. Like, it's always been plugged into that powerstrip, nothing changed with my PC, and one day it just decided to be distorted. Links to replacement drivers would be appreciated in case the satellites blow and I need some replacements

TL;DR in the middle So I originally bought these refurbished, thinking it was going to be a great buy. And my god, it was a great buy. This is a fantastic speaker setup. I've mostly had it on like 30-50% volume, but over the past two months, I've been listening to music with friends and using these for parties about once a weekend so they get turned up pretty loud. Like three or four weeks ago, it suddenly got ridiculously distorted at high volumes. The bass heavy and songs with lower notes sound mediocre. The songs with lots of vocals just suck. Either way, it prompts me to turn it down until it isn't distorted. It gets distorted at around 65% volume I'd say (100% in windows or plugged into my phone). This is still somewhat loud, actually pretty loud for like listening sessions - but I want it like at 80% for parties. Since these were purchased refurbished from newegg, I can't take advantage of logitech's 2-year warranty on the item AFAIK. TL;DR Suddenly distorted at loud volumes (70%+). Looked on google for speaker replacements, solutions, etc, but only found people with either the sub not working or the speaker system not working at all. How can I diagnose what's causing it? I'm not afraid to take these apart and replace components - but I have never, and I mean never messed around with speakers before. Preferably, I would like to just replace the speakers themselves (not the sub) because these have been fantastic. I have a hunch that these were refurbished "for a reason" and wouldn't mind shelling out like $40-$60 to replace the drivers or the speakers themselves. What if it's something as simple as the speakers not getting enough power? I guess I just thought of this - it is plugged in to a power strip which also has my PC and TV connected to it. But I've never experienced symptoms of "not enough power" on any of these devices before.

Thanks for the input everyone. Gonna go with 3800x. I think it'll be a nice upgrade from the 2400G, I really need the cores lol.

Stuck on what to choose - I've seen videos where the 3800x isn't recommended (considering price) and the 3700x isn't a smacking "bang for buck" performance like the 3600 is. But with black Friday sales, is the 3700x worth it for $310, or the 3800x for $330? These are both under their MSRP. I just don't know if the extra $$ is worth it for the little extra clock speed. I'm really leaning for 3800x, but I'm just posting this to have you guys talk me into (or out of) my choice.

Update: tried playing MW again today after the patch last night. Crashed as soon as I loaded in - will try DDU again since the game was patched but I would still appreciate suggestions for a more permanent solution EDIT: DDU seemed to do the trick, but still crash randomly sometimes. Sometimes I crash immediately, but I was able to go for a straight hour and a half until crashing.

This makes me lean towards Bose or as others have suggested, the Sony headphones. Personally, I have never felt like earbuds have as good audio quality, no matter the brand. I'm very biased towards Bose, but that's because I have the QC35 myself and I LOVE them. The most comfortable thing I've ever worn - if I'm not wearing a hat or anything like that, I only know they're on because I am blasting tunes. Perhaps look into Bose or Sony, as I think you may be disappointed with air pods. I think air pods serve a more "mobile" purpose, like for workouts, walking to class, etc, because they're so small and fit in your pocket.

So I'm assuming you would want audio coming from the TV/monitor? I believe most modern GPUs have their own on-board sound, so I don't see why not. But I can see audio input becoming another challenge. You can go ahead and try it (if you have a board with broken sound or something) and see if it works that way.

Tried DDU and after about an hour of fillding with it.. I was able to play for about an hour. Will have to test and see if this is an actual fix, if it's temporary, etc. I'll try and play for a couple hours throughout the week and report any crashes. I have been able to play games for a couple hours before without crashes, so I'm still skeptical.

I'll try that and provide an update! I haven't tried DDU specifically, but I have tried removing old drivers before.

I would think this is the issue too - but I've always kept them up to date when I can, and even when I installed the driver Nvidia released for MW and didn't install the one released later for RDR2, MW bugged me about not having the latest driver

A while ago, I bought a 1070 Ti off eBay, back when they first fell in price (with the release of RTX cards). TL;DR I've had previous cards installed on my system - I have a feeling there may be a software conflict causing me to crash in almost every single game, but sometimes games work great for me. How can I tell it's the hardware itself and if I should sell the card for parts only and get a new one? What can I do since I crash in every single game? Anyways, the games I played were never too demanding or that have been out for a while, so they were likely using older graphics APIs. I've always had trouble with crashes or stuttering though in a lot of games - like every, single, game. At first I thought it might be related to a CPU bottleneck, so I would immediately limit my framerate whenever I could. (Even though task manager never showed CPU usage at 100% in most cases) But here's what my experience has been like: I bought Battlefield V. Game was great for a while (had to run it on DX11), like for the first two months or so I had it, it worked great. No crashes or anything - but a patch came out where I started crashing. My game would just freeze for three seconds and then quit to the desktop. This is when it began (and this was a month after I bought the GPU). I could play for about 5-20 minutes depending on my luck, and this happens still months later. I gave up on trying about three months ago because I was fed up, and figured it was just a bad game. Then I started playing fortnite with my friends, but if I set the resolution to 1440P (like my monitor supports), I crash in a similar manner, almost as soon as I load into a game - game freezes for a bit, then quits to desktop. However, if I set the resolution to 1080p, it works great for about an hour or so, but still crashes. Now, since I mostly play runescape and bought the GPU just so I could play FPS games with my friends, it wasn't a huge deal to me. Sometimes we would just load up counterstrike and play that. However, I also own a laptop (with worse specs) and EVERY single game I have experience crashing with works PERFECTLY on there. So that's how I've been able to play FPS games with my friends, but now I'm sick of dropping nearly $300 on a GPU and having it be the problem. I had always thought it was a software thing, but I want to know for sure if there's a way for me to test that the GPU itself is the issue and if I should just get a new one. My computer has gone through some changes that have led me to believe it could be like a conflicting driver thing and that I should do a clean reinstall of Windows or something. I started with the 2400G, got an Nvidia 770 from a friend, moved back to integrated graphics for a month, and then upgraded to the 1070 Ti. Every configuration beforehand has worked great - no issues that I can recall. So with the frequent GPU switches, I've installed and uninstalled different divers several times. I bring this up because I've been playing Modern warfare and like a week after release it was working great on my desktop. Then there was an update and I can't get it to work, no matter what I do. Tried playing windowed, safe mode, running game in DX11, etc. And since my laptop can't run this game super well, I want to get this working so I have a smooth experience playing MW. Relevant system specs: AMD 2400G Vengeance 3000MHz RAM (16GB) EVGA Nvidia 1070 Ti (FTW2 model) Gigabyte B350 Gaming micro Samsung 870 Evo 250GB Sata SSD Corsair 550W power supply If you're curious, my laptop that works perfectly has: Nvidia 950M 7th gen i5 7200U 12GB 2133MHz RAM So I only get like 30 FPS with lowest settings on MW lol.