toobladink

I've recently received a used card that a friend upgraded from. It's an EVGA 1070 Ti FTW2. He originally bought it to play shooters and stuff but he said just a little after the warranty expired it started acting all weird. It got to the point where games would crash as soon as you open them. Whatever, I'm not gonna create a big anecdote here. Problems: It can still do little things, but as soon as it goes under load it just quits. Sometimes it makes coil whine, sometimes it doesnt, sometimes it doesn't even sound like coil whine. I get all sorts of error messages from different games all the time. It's never consistent so I never know what to do. I will often get several different error messages from the same game when I try running it again. For example, CoD MW loves to throw out the following error codes which are either related to RAM or GPU. Sometimes the code will be related to having to reseat them, sometimes the error code means DirectX crashed, etc. Despite getting error message unrelated to the GPU, I feel confident it is my GPU. When I switch it out for my own GPU, everything still works like I would expect. What it can still do: So it's really just used in an office computer right now. All the video processing it does is either for zoom, Old School Runescape (an old java based game... so literally no load), discord, and other basic things. It pretty much can't game and that's why I want to try and fix this thing. What can I do? I feel like I really don't know where to start. At first, I just opened up MSI afterburner and tried to let it find the best overclock. I was able to play some CoD and then it quit after about five minutes. No error message or anything. Is there some sort of program I can run to help find the most stable settings for my GPU? I don't want the most stable overclock. I want the most stable settings. Am I SoL? Not a big deal for me as it is for my friend - but his stimulus was spent on a new GPU some months back and he's just had this sitting around because he didn't feel right trying to sell it to anyone. Anyways... would love to try and figure out how we can get this thing working. I am obviously on the most up to date drivers.

For everyone wondering why I need an ethernet input or something - my house is a little weird. We have the router in the center, but there's a hallway that goes out to our garage that is definitely not up to code. There are two metal doors that we have closed during the winter months. To get a good signal, the two roommates that lived out there would just open up the doors. It would go from like 5mb/s with ridiculous packet loss to about 50 mb/s. I understand extender placement - but like I said, the layout is weird. Imagine having a garage detached from your house and you need wifi in there for video calls. That's basically what my situation is. Okay so I guess I'm basically looking for a second router. The easiest way for me to do this (and hopefully the most affordable) is to connect something from my router, as it is quite far from my modem. The modem is basically forced to be in the basement because of the way it was wired (super short) and our basement is a glorified dungeon made for people who are 4 ft tall - basically just gross as hell. So, we have like a 50 ft cat6 cable going into the router from the modem and it's placed in the center of the actual house itself. Now imagine I want to get wifi in my garage. I was imagining buying an extender, which we already have placed in the living room to help give a better connection upstairs, and this thing (https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Dual-Band-Extender-Repeater-RE6300/dp/B015Z3OD22/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=linksys+re6300&qid=1587406011&s=electronics&sr=1-2) works great for that. But it wants to boost only a wireless signal - if we plug it into the router, the signal is just as bad, making me think that it wants to only boost a wireless signal. Having it boost a wireless signal is not an option, there is not an outlet in a good spot that allows for this. I would prefer to keep budget as small as possible. I really don't need anything more than 50mb/s down or something. Thanks for all the input so far! Funny you mention a second router - the old tenants left one. We just haven't found a way to use it yet. The solution you posted seems to be outside my budget a little bit, but can you help me understand how I could set up a second network? Do you have any guides? The best option would be to plug it into our current router, but we've tried that and our router doesn't really like having a router plugged into an "output" on it. But we do know it works because we had it hooked up to our modem previously and we were using that for a week or so.

I am looking to solve a wireless connection issue in our house. We need to get wifi in a certain area pretty bad, and the only solution I can think of is a wifi extender that takes an ethernet input. However, most of the ones I'm finding online are ethernet outputs. Does a product like this exist? Or am I SOL? We have a budget of like $50, but any product suggestions are welcome. However, we are not looking for something that supports "the fastest connection known to man," just something that can support video livestreams (like zoom calls).

But my SSD already had windows installed, and I've successfully been able to boot into it. So will I have to plug in a USB and select that as the boot device, and then try and install Windows like that? Update: Unplugged all my drives just to see if I can get into the BIOS. Cleared CMOS. Didn't work. Gonna try reseating components. Update 2: Reseated GPU and it worked! If any weird issue persist, I will wipe my boot SSD. Right now I have the chance to copy everything I need over to my larger drive so I'm going to do that first. Final update (March 20th 2020): Reseating the GPU did it. Was able to get rid of the watermark by using Windows troubleshooter, have had no weird issues. Looks like you don't have to reinstall Windows when replacing the motherboard or anything!

Any idea how I can remedy this or how I can wipe my SSD? Perhaps even try to get important info off of it?

First, I want to say that I was not wise. I did little to no research on what I should have done to replace my motherboard (it was the only component switched out). I got very eager and just went for it, expecting everything to work. Oops.. Anyways, let me walk you through the past 24 hours: I replaced the motherboard on my system. Boot it up, get into windows but stuff is weird. I can't open chrome (I can't remember the exact error, but it was like a side-by-side error or something) and I got worried. Figured, "well just in case, I'll see if my drivers are up to date, it's been a few weeks since I've used the PC so I bet Nvidia has something new" And they did, so I tried updating drivers. I got into my first boot loop - this happened when Nvidia tries to restart the PC during installation. This was fixed by holding down the power switch and then pressing it to boot again. Then I figured, "Well I just won't install the drivers from Geforce experience" and surprisingly it worked. I was playing Call of Duty with my friends the entire night - it was great. (BTW, I always use DDU before installing any GPU drivers now. I don't know if that was part of the problem) Here I am the next morning, thinking my PC will work. It's boot looping and I don't know what to try this time. The CPU fan ramps up, and then down, and there's a light that switches off for like a half second on the motherboard. The motherboard is an ASUS TUF X570. What should I do? Reformat my boot drive and pray?

Turns out actually bluetooth works fine - likely that analog output is trashed on the sound card or whatever processes sound. Currently have no idea what could cause this, my thoughts are maybe a cap blew so the lower frequencies are being accidentally filtered out. But that's so vague - there are plenty of electrical components that could fail, and I shouldn't really say that since so many fundamental filters are just a handful of components. Bluetooth sounded the same because I think there weren't any up to date drivers or something. We never tested bluetooth after doing a bunch of stuff to the system so it's hard to say what fixed it. Using bluetooth will be fine, for now

Yes, temp seems to be normal. Can't say I've seen it get above 70C when I've monitored it. The part that throws me off is that I get the same error codes with a Ryzen 2400G. I own a corsair CX550. Should be more than enough I hope

How do you know it's the MB? Is the power delivery just utter shit, or is the support for RAM faster than 2133 really just "support" meaning that it can boot into windows with faster speeds, but that's it? (I hope that makes sense) I'll definitely look into buying a new one, I've had it on my mind for a while too. Might wait for B550, but not sure yet. I'll look into that! That doesn't sound like too bad of an idea, especially since nothing I do often really maxes out my CPU. Yes, but that doesn't exactly get rid of GPU related error codes. I still get them - but I would definitely say less often than RAM related when I do that. Thanks for the replies everyone!

After crashing in games and intense programs for months thinking "oh it's just CoD this game sucks" I found out that downclocking my RAM and GPU gives me a huge improvement in stability, meaning I can typically play for a few hours compared to just 2 minutes. However, I still crash from time to time (and get the same error codes as before, making me think this may be an ongoing issue for me). So my question is, Is there some sort of utility out there that I can use that will help me find the most stable settings possible for my hardware? I have mostly only played CoD, but since I have quite a nice computer, I am getting into editing videos for school comedy sketches, but can't get anything done because programs keep crashing. Please note, any other game that's typically easy to run, like CSGO and Rocket league don't crash, but Fortnite, BFV, CoD, Destiny 2, Doom, and Dirt Rally all crash at some point. But like an older game, like Dirt 3, doesn't crash. I ask this because EVGA has this overclock software that like finds the most stable overclock for your GPU. But.. I only get stability when I underclock. I have a feeling finding software that could fix the RAM issues might be the most challenging part, as there is a lot more associated with that System specs, in case anyone is curious: EVGA 1070Ti FTW2, downclocked 150MHz on core and 250Mhz on memory Corsair Vengeance 3000MHz RAM, XMP disabled so defaulted to 2133MHz (via motherboard) Gigabyte AB-350N motherboard Ryzen 3800x Also note, that I was using a Ryzen 2400G previously and ran into the same issues. Definitely not a power delivery issue, as all error codes I get seem to be DirectX or DRAM related.

My friend recently picked up a refurbished laptop online and the audio is horrible. Bluetooth headphones, wired headphones, and the speakers all sound terrible. I understand the speakers aren't great, and they're never used, but the rest is worrying. Let me describe the audio quality a little bit - No headphones are able to reproduce low frequencies. Everything else sounds washed out and not as crisp. For example, a snare won't sound as crisp or instantaneous. Other than reinstalling drivers, what else can I check? Is there a way to see if perhaps it's a hardware problem and if there is a way to fix it? Warranty is out of the question, unfortunately.

Update: Haven't played the game basically since I last posted. With every update possible, I have been retrying it. I hate this. I feel so alienated because I am literally the only person in my house that can't play. When everyone logs on to play, I can only play RuneScape or something. I'm at a serious loss here on what to try

I want to know your favorite way to record some quality audio on windows 10. Looking for something that can make some quality recordings that won't leave me with some obscure files that I have to open with a niche program. Currently, I think audacity seems to be the best. Any other contenders?

I just want to pick out this reply - I recently bought the H4xx from massdrop and hoped I was going to peak when I turned up the volume, but I didn't. I knew nothing about open-back headphones, and if I could choose again, I would choose closed back. When playing games, the only thing that takes me out of it is when suddnely, the heater kicks on, or the neighbors are out playing in their yard, etc. Even if you think your space is quiet - I encourage you to sit in absolute silence for two minutes. Notice if you hear anything, and then decide. Because they're great headphones in a quiet space, but it needs to be nearly dead silent. Like, to the point where you can't hear anything outside. Also, if you decide on these headphones, definitely an amp AND a new cable. The cable that comes with them could be better. And they crave an amp. Anyways, I can't speak for speakers too much.

In case anyone finds this in the future: It mysteriously went away. I believe it had something to do with power - as the sound system was plugged into the same powerstrip as my PC and monitor, and I'm not sure the powerstrip liked that too well. I say this because I rearranged my room and plugged them into a lone socket in the wall and now I can blast these babies like I was before. However.. very confused how this only started happening recently. Like, it's always been plugged into that powerstrip, nothing changed with my PC, and one day it just decided to be distorted. Links to replacement drivers would be appreciated in case the satellites blow and I need some replacements