Hiya!

It uses A3050 sensor the same as the HP M220 mouse so either way its the same in terms of performance.
Now you need to worry about features,size and shape.

So I bought a Logitech G5 new almost a decade ago.
 
Since the past year or more (Can't remember for how long this issue has been present) the DPI - ( - meaning negative) button has been very hard to push. I had to push down REALLY hard to get it to work. And then it would double press most of the time.
 
The right scroll wheel click wasn't working almost at all.
 
Here is a guide on opening the mouse up and its various major components that are subject to wear and tear: 
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/logitech-g5-restoration-and-tweaks.233746/
 
Now I found a temporary 'fix'. Took me a while to find something that would work.
First I tried using a paper hole puncher and plastic takeaway container. 
I used the hole puncher on the plastic lid. BUT it turned out those punched out pieces were too big to fit ontop of the SMD Tactile Switches (Look at the link above to see what I'm talking about; they are labelled as DPI and Scroll buttons on the diagram and the switches themselves are green in colour).
I also had now way to stick them on as superglue cannot stick these kinds of plastic together.
 
So then I put on tiny pieces of duck tape. Multiple layers. I think 2-3 layers on the DPI switch and 2-3 on the right scroll wheel switch.
Taking out just one layer of the duck tape made the right scroll click unusable. But the additional single layer is a tiny bit too much as now the left scroll wheel can be easily clicked and is accidentally clicked when using the scroll wheel. That can be pretty devastating.
For example, right now I am typing on here. I scroll down having spent 20 minutes typing this and having to google search for that guide I provided the link for as it's been a while since I looked at that guide.
If I remove that single layer of duck tape, then the remaining duck tape layer/s are not sufficient and the right scroll wheel can no longer be used. 
 
I then had to go back to the guide and find and check the diagram to see how it had been labelled. 
I also had to open up my mouse while typing this (all screws for the base have been left unscrewed as I plan on replacing the SMD's and without the screws it holds together very well) to check how many layers of duck tape there are.
 
As you can imagine, hitting the left scroll wheel (which is set to BACK) means losing everything I just typed. 
I think forums should come with a dialog box warning message and should auto save your work when you hit back.
 
Alrighty. So. I ordered these SMD switches: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/6821263/
 
They cost £4.70 and come in a strip of 5. 5 for £4.70 (note prices are listed EXCLUDING VAT on their site for a pack). They arrived today in the post. RS components are amazing. Free NEXT DAY delivery no matter how small the order!!
 
Now I need someone to remove the old ones and install the new ones. I figure its best to remove all 4 of them and replace them all as they may have a different actuation force.
 
HOWEVER, I inspected the DPI and scroll wheel plastic things that push onto the buttons. Below is a photo taken from that guide, with those plastic things for the  DPI switches circled in RED which I added myself in Paint:
 
As you can see those are the things that get pushed down onto the switches. The scroll wheel has similar little black protruding plastic things. 
 
Now upon inspection I think the negative DPI switches plastic pushy down thing circled in RED (actually BOTH + and - are circled in RED) in the above image, has worn out a bit. It just seems shorter.

IF getting these switches replaced (which I thankfully have found a mobile phone repair store that will do it for free for me, but still involves me driving 20 miles and paying for parking so now we are going from £4.70 to around £10 for fuel+ parking.... so you can see the costs start to add up fast) otherwise other places wanted to charge me £20-£30 to do it) doesn't fix the issue then it is most certainly due to the plasticy things wearing out.
 
>> Considering I have no way to measure such tiny things with such little height, how do I know how many millimeters need to be added back to the plasticy things, and WHAT can I add to them and HOW? 
 
This mouse is pretty legendary it seems. People are selling this mouse NEW for around £270 on ebay and used for a fair amount. I love this mouse. My bro has a G502 and I HATE that mouse. It feels cheap, I keep hitting that reset DPI to a designated DPI setting button (what is the obsession with DPI? I have NEVER used it in game EVER) near the thumb accidentally, the mouse buttons stick to your fingers and lift up a bit making a horrible sound (apparently present on all Logitech's new G series mice) when even a tiny bit of seat builds up on your fingertips, the side mouse buttons are too low, and it just doesn't feel right in the hand. There are probably other things, but I can't remember right now.
 
I tried Razers Deathadder in a PC store (Currys/PC World) and found the front REALLY REALLY WIDE which meant when I tried using the scroll wheel I kept clicking the left mouse button accidentally. Otherwise it felt good and the side mouse buttons are at the right height from the thumb. Its just that stupidly wide front which destroyed it. 
Anyone else have this issue with this mouse?

Bearing in mind I could not use the mouse at home on a PC on a flat surface while being seated.
Instead the mice on display in the store are available to try on a slanted angled surface which isn't even flat and has like pipes underneath and shit. They are at around stomach height. Obviously you are standing when you try them. They are not connected to any PC and are just on display.
 
Oh shit. I hit the BACK left scroll wheel by accident just now as I went to scroll down... my blood went cold. I clicked forward (right scroll wheel) and WOW this forum said 'your previous content has been restored). FUCK YES FORUM. THANK YOU.
 
So yeah... I love this mouse. And I can't find another to replace it with that feels right in the hand so I want to fix this one. 
 
Help please? Thank you
 

Bad taste in my mouth, even though this is super serious.
 
I definitely didn't expect Facebook to bother with human moderation, or even within the United States for that matter, since cheap overseas PC labor is easy today come by. 

I will be buying a Logitech G900 per @Hiya!'s recommendation. Thank god for this thread!

I have noticed #3 while playing snipers, come to think of it. Thank you for your time!

I am using a wired Etekcity scroll 6e optical mouse. It is cheap, and I fit my hand well. I am interested in upgrading, but it seems like it is impossible to compare mice from specs.
 
Wow, turning off the windows enchance pointer precision make the mouse movement a lot more consistent! ? Thanks!!?

-Roccat leadr
-Roccat tyon
-Roccat nyth (wireless)
-Steelseries rival 500
-Razer basilisk
-Corsair glaive

Check out the ROCCAT Nyth or Corsair SCIMITAR, either one should be right up your alley. 

Did it go viral?

Yes

Yes

10A at 230V are 2300 Watts,
thats more than enough for your setup.
You probably can connect up to 4 setups similar to this an be fine.
 
Also your power grid (there is surely another word for this but i cannot remember it, in German it is Stromnetz or Stromkreis or Sicherungskreis) has probably a B13(max 13 amps permanent) or B10(10A permanent) current surge.
 
 
no thats the amperage of the individual rails at 3.3V 5V and 12V.
your power supply has 550Watts that are 550W/230V = 2.4A
That means, your powersupply needs max 2.4A (That value is theoretical, if incounter efficiency it is not 100% correct, picture in the spoiler)
 

You wanna look at how many joules it can handle. Looking at joules tells you how much energy the surge protector can absorb before it fails. This one can handle 918Joules, which I would think is enough protection for your setup (and APC is a solid brand, I don't use any-other brand for UPS's).

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BE112230-08-12-Outlet-Power-Protector/dp/B002QPZXH2?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_761520_1&pf_rd_p=1cf402ec-bbf4-5989-987f-c5a33c9812f5&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=761520&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=3MCCXZVJP7XRRMFDCBTW&th=1
Big surge protector.

Any high-quality Surge Protector will work, just make sure it's the first thing that's plugged into the wall and everything else goes into it. I'm thinking that all surge protectors are the same with the exception of probably USB ports or extra buttons.
 

we're actually on a new revision of it, so stay tuned
 
he sort of works with it, so we'll see...
 
but still, the psu tier list is a good baseline

Yeah thats why i said pretty outdated.
 
Tier list is kinda controversial even jonny himself said its an insult to PSU..but......yeah..the higher the better but all we need to do is just to find the PSU that is enough for our needs.

Pretty much any chair that is "GAMING!!!!!" is overpriced for what it is. Better option is to buy a normal office chair for the same price, they will last longer, be more comfortable and fit in with a normally decorated room. If you absolutely have to get a "GAMING!!!!!!" chair then there are normal options that look like "GAMING!!!!!" chairs but come in normal colours and materials like black leather and have proper adjustment so that you sit correctly and therefor don't get any back pain after extended use. I find that "GAMING!!!!" chairs get uncomfortable after a while and they lack the backrest adjustment that you need to sit properly, they achieve a kind of adjustment by using pillows which is just a piss poor solution for what is supposed to be a premium solution (but really isn't). 

Its the best wireless mouse you can get on the cheap just make sure your hand is in the right size for the mouse

No i was speaking in general whatever the material is..but when you said build a wall..that remind me of something though ?

Oh haha...i am so sorry.. 
 
i'd prefer the deepcool mainly because of the removable drives bay

I think its best to just talk with your neighbour about it..or move if possible

That is a POTATO Grade GPU, i doubt you can get it stable if you OC it and again it wont give you that much of a performance boost..like...nothing at all.
But if you still insist Download MSI AFTERBURNER and just educate yourself by watching/reading the tutorial on how to use it.
Its not rocket science, everyone can do it.
 
But if you ask me, Dont bother with it your best choice is just get another GPU.

If the walls are paper-thin, there's not much they can do about it, either. Personally, I think the best way the OP could address this is just to wrap up their sleeves, buy as heavy wood planks/panels as possible and set up a second wall -- the heavier the material is, the more sound it blocks.

I think its best to just talk with your neighbour about it..or move if possible