Nicolai

Took out the usb wireless Xbox controller receiver and the crashing stopped.

RAM has been reseated, though it has been sitting there for like 3 years, no avail. BIOS was reset with no help. PSU is a 650W.

As stated in the original post, I have formatted the drive and thus, reinstalled the OS. Could the SSD still be faulty even with no errors and perfect health? It's also fairly new, like 1 year.

Randomly Win10 crashes. Videos stop moving and all windows become still and they can't be interacted with. Cursor moves on the screen, sometimes normally, sometimes slowly. Sometimes audio will continue to play, sometimes it stops. If I wait for 5 or so minutes, some windows might become active, sound stutters, and back to being in crashed state 2 seconds later. No hardware changes in a year. This has not happened while gaming, ever. Desktop only. Ilde doesn't crash either, I can go all night with the PC idle and it's still up. Something I noticed is Windows Font Viewer. Trying to install a font, will force this crash and I have to hard reset. Might be unrelated. If I turn off my monitors during this crash, they won't come back up and stay in a black screen until I reset. Below are the things I've tried. ASUS Maximus X Hero i7 8700k, idle 35c, rendering 85c ASUS 1080Ti (2x DP monitors. 1x HDMI, changed thermal paste 6 months ago), idle 31c, games and render 60c 32GB DDR4 970 Evo Plus 2TB - Temps ok - Formatting the drive didn't help - iCue, Rainter, NZXT CAM and MSI Afterburner off - Different NVIDIA drivers back and forth - Memtest86+ for 24h with no errors - SSD health is at 100% with no problems in SMART tests. - According to Task Manager, RAM is not full, SSD isn't working hard, GPU and CPU are ok during the crash. - Event Viewer logs NOTHING. Not before, or after the crash. It only logs a kernelpower instance due to pressing the reset button. I'm honestly out of ideas.

Here's a peculiar problem. Everything worked fine until I did a fresh install of Windows 10. Now, games specifically, and some selected software applications take 1-3 minutes to launch. I originally installed nvidia studio drivers, but reverted back to game ready drivers which seemed to fix the problem, but now it's back for no reason. I tried to close all applications from the task manager, but it seemed to have made no difference. Apart from games and some software launching forever, once they load, it's fine. The M.2 is not overheating, nor is any other component. It seems like a software issue even with nothing else running. Here are some examples: - Rocket League, stays in tray for 2 minutes until it boots. - Hotline Miami 2, gives me a black screen, followed by the title screen for 2 minutes and then gives me control - Dota 2, hangs in the logo screen for up to 5 minutes and then works fine - 3D modelling software I use at work, gives me a not responding screen for 2 minutes, then works fine. - Hitman 2, black screen for up to 5 minutes, then loads intro's and works fine. ASUS Maximus X Hero 8700k, 1080 Ti 32GB DDR4 Win 10 Pro

Like it says in the title. When I set my hz to 144, all text becomes blurry and somewhat distorted. Setting hz to 120 fixes it completely. Cleartype has no real effect with 144hz. Is this supposed to happen? I'm running with GTX970, but will upgrade to 1080ti soon. The text has "rainbowy", blurry edges when set to 144hz.

Win10 64bit Samsung SSD EVO860 1Tb Asus Maximus X Hero, latest bios. Suddenly, these problems have risen on this specific drive (my secondary): - Steam games will partly break, and Steam needs to install them again. Which it does in a few minutes. - Windows Store Games will break, and I need to reinstall them fully. They lie in this drive, and Store says the drive became unplugged and tells me not to use an external drive (I'm not). After reinstalling the game, it works for a moment again. - I can't save files through Photoshop normally anymore. Saving on top of the old file, I get an error saying I don't have permissions, or the file is in use. "Save as" works, until I try to "Save" it again. - Sometimes Windows Explorer will hang when opening the hard disk view. Scandisk found no errors. Crystaldiskinfo says the drive is 99% healthy with no problems.

so I overclocked my setup with this guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoUtA7DKXhU, but knowing pretty much nothing about these things, all is working fine and all, but my cpu is now running almost at max core clock even in idle. which of the uefi settings controls that? Can I have the CPU clock down on idle somehow?

New build and a fresh install of WIN10: - I can't make any changes inside Program Files. I can install programs though. - I can't open Office unless I run them as admin. - I can't add or edit registry keys. Trying to take ownership in regedit results in 'access is denied'. - I can't open screen saver settings, no permissions. I'm logged in as admin for all of these. What's up? I tried sfc scannow, and DISM. They didn't find problems. I did lose power at the very first wupdate, while it told me not to cut power.

Looks like if I take the LED strip OUTSIDE of the case, the noise stops. It's magnetic. Is this the problem?

I'm using Aura to control both. Should probably try Corsair Link?

Here's my symptoms: - if RGB is enabled on RAM and my LED strip, there is a very high pitched noise coming from the RAM area (tested with a toilet paper roll and listened). - If set to breathing effects, the noise comes on with the lights, and goes off without them. - If I disable lights on the RAM, but keep the LED light on, the noise goes away. If I disable the lights on the LED but keep the lights on the RAM, the noise is quieter. - When the RGB elements have been off for awhile, the noise can pick up and start, then go away, then start, but activating the LED's makes it's instantly worse. I tried another RGB header on the motherboard too without success. Asus Maximus X Hero 8700k Corsair RM750x 8x4 Gb Corsair Vengeance RGB 3000mhz Kraken x62 No mechanical HDD's My RAM was also set to 1.5V in UEFI, I changed it to 1.35 which didn't help.

I noticed the R4 only has one vertical bracket but the R6 has two. So I probably can't change them all as those seem to be shorter.

Can someone who owns both of these cases, check if the pci brackets from the r4 are the exact same as the R6 and if they can be swapped between them. Thanks!

Funny, I was looking at that specifically.