LateLesley

They do have an "How FAH Works" section, which has some articles on how it works. https://foldingathome.org/category/how-fah-works/

How about the cheaper-than-hakko option? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324166943523?hash=item4b79db0323:g:40kAAOSwIlBeplWb I mean a desoldering pump will work, but they are a pain, and not too efficient. Desolder braid might be better.

Since it worked after powering off the PSU, it sounds like the PSU is tripping out on overload. Now a trap that catches many people, is the PSU is actually 2 power supplies - a constant 5V (+5Vsb) , and then the main power which does the main +5V +12V -12V etc etc. Now what happens, is some motherboards let you choose which powerline powers the USB ports - usually set with a jumper next to the ports (It's done in pairs of ports in many cases) and many default to getting power from the +5Vsb line. The advantage of this, is you get power from the USB even if your machine is powered down, The disadvantage, is if you have many high draw USB devices, you can overload the +5Vsb supply, which isn't as strong as the main one. So, what i'm proposing, is you dig into the motherboard manual, and figure out if the USB ports have this setting for the power, and also check your USB devices, and see if they are maybe overloading the +5Vsb supply. It might not be the case, but it's worth checking, especially in these RGB days (RGB ends up drawing more power ) It would explain how it reset after you removed mains power for a minute, resetting the supply. It could be the PSU is faulty too. But hopefully it gives you a direction to look in.

Glad you got it sorted. For future reference, here's how to clear your CMOS on your board. It's a jumper at the bottom of the board, detailed on page 23 of this PDF manual. https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/ROG_STRIX_B450_F_GAMING/E14401_ROG_STRIX_B450-F_GAMING_UM_WEB.pdf

1. Don't panic. 2 Reset your Cmos (CLR CMOS) It helps after an update. 3. You'll need to go into your BIOS setup, and redo your settings, any overclock, XMP, and importantly, your boot SSD/HDD (That's what that error message is, its not ominous, it just means the drive to boot from isnt set right in the BIOS settings. ) Once you have all your Bios settings set, save and reboot, and it should start up pretty normally. BIOS firmware updates, can sometimes mess up the BIOS settings, which is why it's best to clear it, then redo all your settings. It may be worth noting what setting you change/use for future reference.

There is a way, and a secret code. You'll need a sleeping bag, water and some food. Go to your local computer store and ask for a GTX 1080 Long Stand. They should direct you to wait over at the side. Have some patience, as it might take a while. Feel free to sleep and snack as you wait.

Well, that pretty much eliminates everything - so options left is maybe to reflash the GPU VBIOS, or the card's dead- might be any electrolytic caps on the GPU are done. And like @-rascal- says, make sue you are using two separate cables to the 8-pin and 6-pin. It just gets more stable power to the GPU, having more cables reduces the resistance of the cabling between the PSU and GPU, and less resistance means less voltage drop.

It may be your initial switch on power spike is tripping OCP on the PSU. And when you start it with the CPU disconnected, you reduce that spike. Also, it would probably be better with separate 8 pin and 6 pin cables to the GPU. I would try that first, but I think you may need to try another PSU.

It be honest, they probably work more often than not, but it's usually down the the experience a person has in building PC's together. You'll find people who have done more than 20 builds, will be familiar with the gotchas, and have few problems apart from DOA parts. People with less experience building will have more problems, but that's just part of the learning experience, and things to check and look for, like connectors in the right place, fully inserted etc. Making sure RAM and cards are fully seated. It all comes with experience. It does also depend on the parts too though, as you can get some badly made parts which have horrendous failures. I remember once having to set up a load of Compaq machines, think it was the late 90s, and whatever model it was, they had bad power supplies, and about 20% blew up as soon as you tried to power the machine. A full on bang, with sparks showering out. That made for an interesting few days, tring to figure out which ones were bombs, Anyway, if you have a bit of experience, you'll find that there's less chance of it not working once yo've built it, and checked all the power connectors etc before switch on.

Or, you use a different text editor which can handle large files. https://www.ghacks.net/2018/02/22/how-to-open-gigabyte-sized-text-files-on-windows/

A Seasonic PSU should be decent enough, as long as it's not too old. The problems with PSU isn't always just an overload of wattage, over time the capacitors in the PSU dry out, they tend to be rated for around 2000 hours or so, maybe 5000 or 10,000 hours if they are really good caps. Anyway, as they wear, they loose capacitance, and that can cause increased ripple on the supply lines, and dips as the CPU/GPU/Motherboard change from low to high load. IF you had an oscilloscope, even one of those very cheap ebay kit oscilloscopes, it would be enough to see if there is ripple and dips on the power lines. It's not always the problem, and Seasonic make pretty good PSUs, so i'm tempted to suspect it less, but it is an issue that can happen, especially as PSUs age 3-7 years old. You could probably eliminate the SSD as being the problem by running a live linux, or a diagnostic disc/USB like Hiren's Boot CD. (https://www.hirensbootcd.org) That would at least take that out of the equation.

Random BSODs can nearly always be tied down to either unstable overclock, faulty memory, faulty cpu, or one part that most folk miss, faulty power. So with that in mind, which PSU are you using? Set everything stock, get a copy of memtest86 (https://www.memtest86.com/) and test the memory through 3 passes at least. It'll take some time. Thats the first test I would do, if it fails, try it with just one stick at a time. If it still fails, i'd try different memory, and if I got it stable, i'd try clearing and updating the BIOS. I'd probably try a different PSU if it was still unstable. It's not easy if you don't have parts to hand to test with though.

That doesn't sound normal. The fact it powers up then down then back up again, sounds like it maybe training memory - and also the fact it goes straight into BIOS... I suspect your motherboard battery might be dead. Does it loose the time or any other Bios settings, when powered off for a while? That's the first place I'd start looking.

Right, I might be out my depth here, as i've not played with ZFS or anything like that. BUt from the quick read I've had, ARC will only help with read speeds, to help with write you'll need ZIL set up, preferably on a fast pool of SSDs I would think. That may stop your write speed tanking. Also I seen something about INtel quick assist technology (QAT), but I don't know if you have the hardware for that, or if you are running it already? It seems it may help ZFS with the compression. https://linuxhint.com/configuring-zfs-cache/ https://openzfs.org/wiki/ZFS_Hardware_Acceleration_with_QAT

I found this on reddit, someone having lag problems with the same card. Maybe you could try checking the settings they changed?? https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/fc313a/ax200_random_ping_spikes_fix/