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Ωhmbreon

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  • Posts

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About Ωhmbreon

  • Birthday Aug 09, 2002

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Shiny #3364
  • Steam
    Shiny
  • Origin
    Eon_of_Fury
  • Xbox Live
    Nuclearfaux

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Industrial design, building computers, designing the aesthetics of computer parts.
  • Biography
    I'm just trying to build up a good reputation by becoming more active and helping people out.
  • Occupation
    Student

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 3800X @4.3GHz 1.325v
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte B550 Vision D
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600MHz CL16-16-16-36 (2x8GB)
  • GPU
    R9 Fury X @1100MHz
  • Case
    Lian Li Alpha 550X
  • Storage
    Primary: Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1TB | Secondary: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB Sata SSD RAID 1
  • PSU
    SeaSonic Prime Gold 1000w
  • Display(s)
    Massdrop Vast 35"
  • Cooling
    Fractal Design S36
  • Keyboard
    Cooler Master SK630
  • Mouse
    Cooler Master MM830
  • Sound
    Speakers: Logitech Z333 | Headset: Philips SHP9500 w/ v-moda mic
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home 64Bit
  • Laptop
    Dell XPS 17 | i7 10875H, RTX 2060 6GB, 32GB Ram, 1TB SSD, 4K Touchscreen
  • Phone
    OnePlus 6T 6GB/128GB

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. This is still a thing and I have printed a few parts so far. I've gotten quite busy so I just haven't had too much time.
  2. I decided on rectangles as the shroud for vents. Triangles didn't fit and rhombuses didn't work well enough. I also added a base to elevate the case for the bottom intake fans, which will be doing a majority of the work putting air into the case. The front panel has limited vents to help suppress noise and have a nice clean look and to cover the power supply intake and somewhat awkward looking placement of the front fan. I also added a short cover to the top of the case to cover the fans and the tabs that will support the sidepanels. The sidepanels will slide in from the top and be held in by two screws. I also did various minor improvements to help make it look better and improve compatibility.
  3. I bought a 280mm radiator. It's a be quiet! Pure Loop and it's quite excellent despite being quite cheap compared to other 280mm radiators. Fit my system perfectly with the white led ring and aluminum on the block. I'll likely change out the fans for something different, though. to better fit the color scheme. The orange on the sticker of the fans is distracting. I also got 16GB more RAM since I ran out while doing other 3D modeling. 4 slots filled looks nice. I worked a little more on the case tonight. Just putting holes so fans can be fans, and a slot for the radiator tubes to fit in. I also added a shroud for the front of the case to make it look better and reduce noise slightly. I'm thinking for the holes in the shroud I'll use a patterns with triangles or rectangles. I need to do a bit of a study on what patterns will match the design language of the parts in the system. I'm thinking triangles may not fit well, but I need to do more work. I am also going to put a "cap" on the top and bottom of the case to hide the fans and elevate the bottom intake fans. This will increase size, but they will also be removable, The front shroud will likely also be removable. I do need to find a place to put front I/O and the power button as well.
  4. I know. I have one and it was making sense when I was planning on having an excessively large gpu. Now that I have one about as long as an ATX board, I'm reconsidering since I want the case to be compact, and a radiator with a total length of 450mm doesn't really fit in with "compact."
  5. I had a realization that it would be the best idea to just cut off the motherboard tray from an ATX case and use that as a base. Less technical stuff to print and guaranteed not to melt or deform from the heat of a processor and graphics card and such. As for hardware, I couldn't get a 3080 or a 3070, so I got a 3060 Ti Founder's Edition (which is broken... but at least I have it and can RMA). That means the case can be smaller. Not sure how I'll fit a 420mm radiator in now.
  6. I did see the discussion on different materials and methods. Right now, I only have access to a 3D printer. As much as I'd love to use a waterjet or CNC of some kind, I can't. The maker's spaces with them are closed and I am far away from school. I have made a pc case before with the help of a plasma cutter a couple years ago. It was my first custom case, so quality is meh. If you would like to see it, it is here: As for materials besides PLA, I'll look into them and choose. The final case will be be a mix of PLA and other materials since PLA is cheap and I am decent at printing with it. I do need to do a complete redesign of the case to be able to print it in pieces, as a monolithic print will most definitely fail.
  7. I built a system in it too, of course. It was good to do a test case like this, especially because I need to improve a lot. These parts don't run hot enough to reach the glass transition temperature of the PLA, so it should be fine, with exception perhaps of that hard drive cage which I lazily mounted via friction to the heatsink because I was lazy and it looked like a good spot. I'm not going to paint it since it was difficult to assemble and I don't want to disassemble it. I also need to add a power button. If you're interested in the specs: i5-6600T 16GB DDR4 GTX 1650 Super 1TB HDD + 240GB SSD
  8. Little case is done! I definitely didn't finish it a while ago and forgot to put it here.
  9. Big printers can be expensive. The CR-10 Max is about $1000, which is kinda cheap for that size compared to other printers around the 450x450x470mm print volume, but still a big purchase. It's ok to print in multiple smaller pieces and assemble them. Makes designing it a little more challenging but the printing process will be easier. I'd definitely recommend a printer that has a powerful enough power supply to heat the bed (Creality has some printers with 400mm and 500mm square beds that have a lot of trouble heating the bed). I'd also recommend a printer that automatically pauses the print when it runs out of filament, and also can resume the print in case of a sudden power loss. You'll have a lot less failed prints with those features.
  10. I have solved some more issues with my prints. I had the wrong retraction distance for the filament. I was using direct drive retraction settings for my bowden feed extruder. I also slowed it down a bit more which helped get rid of some more quality issues around edges. The layers could still be more consistent and it still has other little quality issues. I'm kinda confused because everything seemed to be ok with my first few prints which included fine details. I paused the big case to print a little case for a pc I'm giving to my sister, and it's a good time to practice more since my test bench case did not print well. This is the overall design: I decided it was a better idea to print in many sections and assemble them instead of trying to do one monolithic print. From left to right: Front sidepanel, hard drive cage, top, rear, gpu holder, fan holder, bottom, rear sidepanel (non-removable), and front. For case feet, I'll probably just do rubber pads of some kind. More important information: The glass transition temperature for PLA is somewhere around 55-60C, which means it'll lose structural integrity and warp when heated to or beyond this point. This is not good for obvious reasons, especially for something like a motherboard tray. I am using PLA for this case though because it has low powered hardware and (i5 6600T and GTX 1650 Super). I will do tests on how hot the hardware gets, and if it is near or beyond this temperature, I'll get some thermal reflective tape and put that in places that need it such as on the motherboard tray and on the surfaces around the gpu. I'm just including everything that isn't the main ATX case because this is my process from idea to finished product. I'm testing it not through prototypes of the finished case, but other cases. I guess that's a bit odd but whatever. For the main ATX case that I was supposed to be working on and this thread was all about, I am redesigning that one from the ground up. I need to make it more compact and design it with consideration that it will be printed in multiple pieces and assembled after. I'm not sure how "compact" compact will be since I'm likely putting in a 420mm radiator (450mm total length) and a chunky video card (if I can get my hands on one or if Zotac ever releases it).
  11. If you have any 3D printing tips and tricks that would be awesome because I'm having a lot of trouble making mine work well. I still have huge stringing and layer consistency issues, along with essentially zero bridging capability. I'm using PLA within its needed temperature and the cooling fan is at 100% which I thought should eliminate stringing. What really stumps me is the bridging and layer consistency issues. The layers could be fine in one spot but horribly misaligned in others.
  12. School has been quite busy lately so I haven't been working on this too much. First part of the testbench turned out well, just very stringy. Like, very stringy. It was just from a reduced fan speed and a little cutting and sanding will get rid of it. There were also some very misaligned layers, but I'm not sure what happened because it was not consistent throughout the whole structure. Some parts were almost perfect and some were misaligned so much that there was a piece of bridged filament.
  13. Printer has been working for a bit but I've had three failed prints due to warping so I've been tuning the settings. I think I've got it now so if everything is good, one part for the testbench will be completed about 24 hours from now.
  14. So I was printing the test bench as practice for the case, and one of the belts decided to mess up, so printer is out of commission for a while until I can get a new belt. I'm going to try and get one through warranty repair but if that is going to take too long I'll just try and find one on Amazon or something that can ship faster.
  15. Bonus round! I needed a test bench case asap so I decided to design my own tonight: It is built in five parts and is completely tool-less. The motherboard is held in by captive standoffs, and the motherboard tray fits onto the bottom part that stores the power supply with more captive standoffs, and slots on the back of the tray. The pcie bracket is friction fit and very basic to only stabilize the gpu since it doesn't need to hold it sideways in a case. There are two removeable support standoffs in the bottom to make room for longer power supplies. I do need to tweak the pcie bracket once more to clear any smds (surface mounted devices) on the motherboard, and any motherboard i/o since it intrudes into that area at the top. This'll be a kind of a test run for my case, and will be printed with 20% infill and 2.4mm thick walls on a 0.8mm nozzle. Print settings will be: Bed - 45C, Nozzle - 200C, Speed - 60mm/s. I'll print the top, then bottom, then the three extra parts.
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