Marco2G

Does anybody have FreeSync working in a "PC in other room" setup?

I notice that my monitor and GPU will gladly do FreeSync over a normal length DP cable. It won't, however, work over a 10m cable. I'm assuming latency issues of the signal or something. The cable I have is most definitely chinesium off of amazon. It does claim it's 8K@60Hz and it absolutely works with my 3440x1440@100Hz... just not FreeSync. Here's the cable, if the forum allows the link: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0919XLPFL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Does anybody know whether I might be on to something and as a follow up question, do you think a fiber DP cable would help with this? I don't game too often but when I do, tearing is the number one issue that tends to ruin the day for me.

Hi everyone I am having issues with my work laptop. Windows keeps muting itself globally which makes me miss incoming Teams calls when the KVM is set to another machine. Unfortunately, the calls popup from Teams keeps appearing on a screen that is no longer connected so I don't see that either. I usually keep just the Teams window on the Laptop screen and use other screens as primary. Does anyone know how to force the notification onto a different screen? And does anyone know why Win11 keeps going on mute? I have a feeling it happens when the laptop locks itself or goes to sleep but it still feels rather random to me.

Hi everyone I'm considering buying some LTT bottles because I'm having an issue with my current one. One of them gives the water some funny aftertaste and the other started to do so as well after cleaning. I put it in the washer and then it tasted like detergent. So I went after that with some vinegar. So the detergent taste was replaced with vinegar :D. I even went as far as using steam to clean the thing. Nothing helped. One week later the aftertaste seems to have gone. So I want to know is there a special way you clean insulated bottles that I don't know of or is this a case of cheap chinesium and the LTT bottles don;t have that issue in the first place?

Well, that's a very good point, the question then becomes which cable do I test with instead? ALL my cables are more or less chinesium no name. Without investing serious cash into local German cables, which too are most probably manufactured in China anyway, this becomes guesswork... This cable can drive 1440x3440 at 100Hz so it can't be complete garbage... What do you think, if the cable quality was the problem would lowering the resolution and/or refresh rate open bandwidth for FreeSync or does it not work like that? Edit: Just had the thought that it might become a matter of latency over that distance... I understood that Adaptivesync is based on bidirectional communication between monitor and GPU and as such distance doubles for any set of back and forth.

Yes, but how when the OSD menu option isn't listed?

Hi I have a Philips 346P1CRH/00 monitor that should be AdaptiveSync compatible according to shops and philips.com. It is attached via a DP 1.4 cable (albeit a 10m /30ft long one). Adrenaline lists FreeSync as incompatible and I was wondering if the cable might just be too long or if there are picture options like HDR that might automatically invalidate FreeSync? I already called Philips support but not only was I called rude for disagreeing with their statement that the monitor did not support FreeSync, they claim AdaptiveSync is a different technology altogether. I'm pretty sure that's false but frankly, lately I feel like I'm getting old (or getting gaslighted, who knows these days) so I thought I'd check with you guys what my options were. I just noticed in the manual that there should be an option to activate or deactivate AdaptiveSync but it just isn't there... The Manual lists compatible GPUs but they're all from the R9. Is there something in the standard that might prevent more modern cards to communicate with this monitor? Is the monitors implementation too old or something?

Well, the card IS driving the pixels, though. It did so in Linux once and it keeps happily doing it in an already installed windows.

Hi everyone I bought a new 3440x1440 display and I'm having some issues. First off, my GPU, a 980TI, doesn't always deliver a picture at boot. It just doesn't wake up. I have to try several times before I get a picture. I've gotten used to that. My main OS is/was kubuntu but I have a windows partition on another drive, too. Now what happened when I attached the new monitor: Even when the GPU wakes up, I cannot boot into kubuntu. I see kernel messages but the moment KDE is supposed to pop up, the display remains dark. I got it to work once but I am unsure whether I actually bootet into linux that time on the new monitor or whether I swapped when the OS was already up. I noticed too that I do not get a picture when booting from USB stick. Neither SystemRescue, which is Linux, nor a Windows installer stick will give me a picture. Again, please note that I keep resetting until I see a BIOS splash screen and until I see the boot menu I go into hitting F11. The GPU has waken up at that point. So my question is has anyone experienced GPUs, especially older ones, having trouble with 3440x1440 resolutions? It feels like a problem with loading a driver or something. I should note that the PC is in another room and the DP cable is somewhere between 7 and 10 meters long. I thought maybe that's too much for the necessary bandwidth, but again the windows that is already installed seems to have absolutely no issue displaying at 3440x1440x75Hz.

So turns out it wasn't the CPU's fault. After switching it, it still wasn't much better. So I got the bright idea to check whether my configurations were still in place and lo and behold, linux still loaded the correct driver, however Waterfox had forgotten its about:config settings during an upgrade which was, in the first place, why I suddenly had stutters. I still have bad performance on 4k movies but my gut tells me that is on Jellyfin's server side.

Hi everyone I am in the process of getting annoyed with my current mediacenter PC which is a Pentium G3460 in an Akasa Euler case. My issue: Playback to the 4k tv is not completely smooth. Worst with native 4k but also with most any other material. I already use the iGPU for playback. So. What I would like to know is if I absolutely, positively will have to invest 500ish bucks for a new fanless pc or if any of you have a perfect product in mind that may come in cheaper. Building in Euler cases usually involves the scrounging up of rather exotic mainboards and CPU choices are limited. I see that Zotac has fanless mini pcs but so far I only saw Celeron processors and I have no idea if they would truly be better at this task. I cannot find comparisons. I suspect that my CPU being 50+Watts may not help matters ina case that is meant for dissipating 35W. I have tried a voltage offset of -0.01 but so far, I don't think that did much. So I'm open to suggestions. I know some people run mediacenters off of Raspberry Pis so I wonder how that can work when my dual core Pentium with iGPU seems to struggle. EDIT: After studying the ARK page for this CPU some more, I notice that the iGPU isn't validated for 4k resolution at all. I gotta say, for that it runs rather nicely ;). I have looked at the i3-4370T, which should be compatible with the Asus H81T motherboard. That iGPU does list 4k resolution. So I might just get me a new CPU and be done with it... unless someone has concerns with that plan?

Yeah, that sums up my thoughts on the topic nicely. What I'd just like to avoid is paying extra for features I don't need or cannot use... so if Atmos is just a nogo with sloped ceilings, there is no point getting a soundbar with Atmos. I was pretty impressed how Sony TVs and sound equipment play nice together... Is this standardized or will I potentially be out of luck if I buy brand X TV now and want to buy brand Y soundbar later?

Who in their right mind would listen to dubstep though? Also what is so hard to understand about Atmos without subs? You still get the immersion from sounds coming from around you.

None. I have no interest in subwoofers... I find base to be unnecessary at best. Besides I don't want to include my neighbors in my movie nights. I have had a sub on my old setup years ago. It was the first to go before the rear speakers. Receivers... well they don't scare me, but the last one I had was just too complicated to set up and use... I had to buy a universal remote and programming it was a bitch until the setup worked even remotely reliably. I have a wife and 7 year old kids. I want a turnkey solution. If sound bars do not work on sloped ceilings, I will probably continue using built in speakers. So I'm down to buying a TV... that should make life somewhat easier and cheaper. The LG OLED55G19LA seems like an interesting choice.

Uh... Samsung is evil? Granted, I will not get ad banners because no internet but it's a matter of principle.

Hi everyone Watched Ghostbusters: Afterlife on Friday and for the first time in a decade am interested in upgrading my home theater. I currently have a ten year old 46 inch Panasonic plasma TV and no sound system. I used to have a 5.1 years ago but it was too much of a hassle with not much gain. We watch mostly old tv shows and movies ripped from DVD or compression mangled torrents but I would like to see Terminator 2, Alita and aforementioned Ghostbusters in 4k. All media will be consumed off of Jellyfin. So my question is whether there is a setup that actually fits my expectations: Under 2k for screen and sound No Samsung Atmos (self calibrating. Have a sloped ceiling) Either no satelite speakers or wireless 55 inch Fool proof setup and use (turnkey) No interest in subwoofers HDR (not just capable but looking good) nice to have Don't care if it's last years model. I am not an audiophile nor a cinematic connoisseur. I don't particularly need gaming capabilities. I have no consoles and I game mostly grand strategy on PC so no requirements for my living room setup. I have a small PC attached to the tv so I don't care about smart features at all. In fact, I will be making sure to not attach the thing to the internet. What I'm going for is beautiful pictures, no stuttering, no smearing. Good audio immersion. Is my budget too low or does anyone know of a setup that fits?

By the way, I'm leaning towards a wired mouse.

Yeah I'm never paying upwards of 60 bucks for a mouse again and I'm especially not giving that cash to Logitech.

Hi everyone My G703 has always had issues of the scroll wheel sometimes scrolling in the opposite direction intermittently. I've replaced the first one after a year. The second one had the exact same issue. I reflashed the latest firmware whenever the issue got unbearable but I'm just tired of it since Logitech seems to put the flashing functionality in a different software every few years. So does anyone know if there is a fix for this design flaw? And if not, I'm looking for a replacement. I game very little and when I do, it's mostly grand strategy. I do appreciate the option of selecting mouse DPS though. I'm looking for a bang for buck mouse that ain't Logitech. I remember Linus once holding one up but I can't remember what that was...

I want to thank everyone for the help. It's giving me warm and fuzzies considering how many questions I have asked in the last weeks on both Reddit and Linux forums with not a SINGLE usable reply. I was about to give up on the internet community but it seems Linus attracts some good people.

Frankly I think I need to just give this a rest... I'm going crazy with this and my frustration level is rising. Probably not worth it at all...

From my experience, and I probably did something wrong, overclocking the CPU by screwing with the ratio resulted in it permanently being stuck on max Frequency... Wouldn't that mean a lot of additional power usage?

I fear you are right... I fear this because as an autist, that's about the worst challenge you could have presented me with :D.

Hi everyone Frankly I don't know where to go from here. I have tried overclocking this thing and the results make no sense to me anymore. Used to think I was good at this sort of thing but I had my 4th gen i5 for like 8 years. I think I was left behind :D. My setup: Ryzen 5800X MSI X570 MAG Tomahawk Wifi Noctua NH-D14 Corsair Vengeance LPX 4000MHz 16-16-16-36 NZXT H510 Now my initial idea when I bought this was to basically try and get the FCLK to 2000MHz. Granted, I didn't have high hopes for that. I thought if that doesn't work, I'll try 1900 and 3800 MHz on memory and tighten timings instead. When I started fiddling with the settings, I used OCCT to benchmark and test but I think that tool is lying to me. Anyway, I went through a lot of settings and whatever I did, it made my benchmarks worse. I noticed that Average CPU Die temp was glued to 90C so I thought it's probably cooling. I had liquid metal in there at that point but I think the issues come from the case and where it was located (in a nook in my desk). Long story short, the absolute best results were achieved with the machine outside that nook and a Curve Optimizer setting of -25, XMP memory profile and an FCLK of 1900. Reached 15592 multithread points in cinebench. The very first time I had this combo, I saw idle temps in the 30C range and under load in cinebench I hardly broke 80C. I did some more testing trying CPU Core voltage offsets in both directions and always, ALWAYS CB scores got worse (CB 23 by the way). So I went back to my best setup (had the profile saved) and now idle is 40 to 50C and in cinebench I reach 85C again. The funny thing is it seems every snippet I read about what is the most optimal config just doesn't hold true for me. 4000MHz RAM and 1900 FCLK is better performance than 3800 MHz and 1900 for example even though having memory and FCLK the same is supposed to get rid of overhead synchronisation... I was also not able to tighten timings... perhaps that would have required more voltage? But which? SoC? DRAM? Both? Also When I tried getting to FCLK 2000 a few weeks ago, I could fiddle with memory voltage as much as I wanted, stability never got better... and that goes for everything above 1900, not just 2000. It's like there is no logic to how the system reacts to my fiddling. Is there like a step by step guide that will help me edit the right settings? I get the feeling that I lack a sense of how the settings are connected... e.g. when does what voltage need adjusting and so forth... I'm also very close to cutting a hole in the front of the case for a 140mm fan. These temps just aren't fun.

Hi I know the title isn't saying much but the problem is rather weird... See, I'm doing some testing right now and for that, I had to turn off the PSU.... after turning it back on, and pressing the power button, the system only sometimes actually starts. I have a TUF Gaming B550 board in there. It has LEDs to show where in the boot process it is. DRAM, CPU, VGA and Boot. Well, I just had to reboot three times to get it to move off DRAM. Then the system booted. It immediately whined that it did a BIOS reset because it couldn't boot three times. The only thing I had had activated, AFAIK, was DOCP to get my RAM to 4000MHz. Is it possible that activating the memory profile alone would lead to system instability and weird behavior? I have gotten used to the fact that the system will not readily start when pressing the power button... sometimes I have to try several times. So my question would be is it possible that the mainboard is defective? The RAM? I have tried removing one ram stick once and the machine booted... but then, on the second round of issues, I removed it again and it wouldn't boot anyway so I'm doubting it's the ram... I just wanted to verify that it wasn't the power button. So I pulled off the PWR SW plug and used my knife to short the pins... it took quite some wiggling and several times to get the machine to start. Twice! And when it did start, I had no keyboard. The keyboard and mouse are plugged into a USB hub. The mouse worked but the keyboard only came online when I plugged the hub into a different USB port on the computer.... SO RMA the mainboard? What do you think?