taavi

Some of yall are way too involved in an argument on the internet. 
Go live your life.

I actually think the billetlab thing is completely a drama over nothing. LTT made a mistake. even big mistakes happen, and have offered to pay whatever they have to make it right. That offer may have come after the GN video but we don't actually know Linus was aware of the problem before the point at which the offer went out.
 
I cared far more about the issue of accuracy in video. But now our focus should be on the issues maddison has raised.
 
Please get you priorities in line.

LTT is a tech review channel at it's core and by not being accurate, they are hurting their viewers and consumers in general. They also stole a prototype block from a startup worth thousands and sold it off AFTER misrepresenting it. Keep supporting an unethical, lying and malicious corporation in LTT, that's your downfall!

Mistakes happen during reviews, frequency of mistakes is what matters. (Personally can't comment on the frequency without compiling data)
There are other things that feel a bit meh about the recent LTT videos:
If Linus is hosting the video, it feels like he doesn't read the script before posting the video.
Feels like, He does not know the exact contents(might know the title/basis of what's happening but not the exact idea) of the video untill the shoot starts.
They have to push out content as they have 100+ employees to pay. But that's hurting their reputation.
 
Even their employees think that they are moving too quickly and want to slow down.
 
But, at the end of the day LTT is a good vendor for educational/tech content. Let's just hope they take the video as criticism and improve the quality of what they put out.
(Also find a way to give back the prototype). 
 
 

The amount of hilariously bad takes on this already has me excited for the next WAN show.

Apologies for the late update as I had also waited until Christmas to transfer my PC to a newer case and install the replacement Seasonic PX-850 at the same time. The issue with the power cutting off is gone. So my new PX-850, manufactured March 2021 seems to have resolved the noise issue.

Just received my replacement PSU. A new PX-850 to replace my old SSR-850PD. Manufacturing date is 2021 March, so hoping that it resolves the 12V sense issue.

I wouldn't recommend this as garbage.com domain exists and probably that email too.

I wouldn't recommend this as garbage.com domain exists and probably that email too.

I wouldn't recommend this as garbage.com domain exists and probably that email too.

Yes.
http://jongerow.com/no-sense/

Yes of course I will isolate it. Going to try this and contact Seasonic too and will report back here if this fixes it for me.

Thank you for this info!
 
I am having the same exact trouble as Pwnstix mentioned above. I have Strix 3090 and prime TX-1000 (bought sept. 2020).
 
So basically to kind of "fix" the issue I must unplug the 12V sense plug from PSU side. If I understand correctly I can apply the same pin layout for Seasonic Prime TX-1000 that is on jonnyGURU's page: jongerow.com/Corsair_pinouts/Corsair_pinout_AX_Platinum.htm ?

I can comment on this. I posted about it at greater length a few months ago.
 
So, last fall, I got an EVGA RTX 3080 (FztW3 Ultra), and just in case my Seasonic Prime Titanium 750W PSU from around 2017 wasn't capable enough,  (although it had never failed me before) I went ahead and bought a new Seasonic Prime TX-1000.
 
I installed the new PSU and the 3080 at the same time. One of the first things I did aftering booting my PC back up was to run a benchmark (I ran a few tests in 3DMark). 
 
My PC rebooted during a run of Timespy. I thought maybe it was a fluke, maybe the drivers needed some time. It didn't happen again...until a few weeks later, while I was browsing the internet. That time, I thought it might've been an issue with one of the browsers I had open, so, again, I didn't think much of it. But it started happening more and more frequently while I was playing Cyberpunk 2077. 
 
There was no overheating, I didn't mess with voltage, and I also played around with lowering the power limit.
 
I thought for sure that my brand new TX-1000 PSU couldn't be the culprit, but just in case, I swapped it out for my older Prime Titanium 750W. The reboots persisted, so it couldn't be the PSU, I thought. I also ruled out my uninterruptible power supply (UPS) by plugging directly into the wall. So, I figured it was maybe the video card.
 
I decided to cross-ship RMA my 3080, but the same thing happened with my replacement. I set all my motherboard settings back to default, disabled XMP, everything. Nothing helped. 
 
I panicked and thought maybe there was something wrong with my motherboard, CPU, RAM...I ran memtest86 for half a day and passed. I ran several of OCCT's stress tests, and passed, but the GPU test would almost always cause my PC to reboot. My thoughts were that it might've been the PCIe slot, or the CMOS battery, so I swapped it out..no joy.
 
The reboots were happening more frequently and while the PC was idle, and eventually it wasn't just rebooting--it was shutting off.
 
So I panic bought a new motherboard, CPU, RAM. Did a little minor upgrade to a 5800X. Things seemed fine for a few days, but then I ran a stress test and my PC shut itself off. Tried a few games--same thing. And then it started shutting off on its own again. 
 
So I bought another damned PSU, the one I'm currently using -- an EVGA SuperNova P2 850. I was a bit wary of "downgrading" my wattage from 1000W to 850W, but it's still within the system requirements for the RTX 3080. I haven't had any more issues since I made that swap, which was almost 4 months ago.
 
So, yeah, I made some stupid choices, panic bought a whole new rig. But it was just really hard for me to believe that there was a problem with my then-brand new TX-1000, especially since I'd read that Seasonic had fixed the transient response compared to the older Prime Titanium units  -- until I started reading more about Seasonic PSUs here, and reading more about transient response, etc. I just hadn't done enough research and didn't understand a number of things beforehand, and that's on me. 
 
I RMA'd my TX-1000 and Seasonic was good enough to send me a replacement, although I did do an advanced RMA which basically cross-shipped the new one. They received my old unit several months ago, and I can still access the RMA status page, where I can see that my old unit is in "testing." I'm really curious to see their testing results, but it's been in the testing phase for around two months now, I think...
 
So far, this EVGA unit hasn't given me any problems. I do feel a little silly for building a new PC, although I had planned on upgrading from what I had, eventually. But it seems like the culprit to my problems was my  previous TX-1000. I haven't used the replacement unit in anything yet, and as far as my older 750W unit showing the same behavior, I suppose that might have to do with it also being an older model in the Prime Titanium series: there was a minor upgrade about a year after I bought that one, to Prime Ultra Titanium -- something about transient response, again.
 
Anyway, sorry I got kind of long winded again, so: TL/DR: my PC was rebooting with a RTX 3080 and my brand new Seasonic TX-1000 ended up being the problem component; another (EVGA SuperNova P2 850) PSU solved my problem.
 
 
edit: as jonnyGURU says in the post below mine: the whole transient spike thing doesn't seem to be causing these issues or tripping OPP. I kept seeing things about "transient spikes," etc., and I bought into all that as well, because of my own relative ignorance regarding PSU construction. I always figured most of the problem had to do with the general consensus that Ampere's power delivery/PCB construction is...not always that great. That's a whole other topic entirely, but...it does tie into how certain power supplies behave. 
 
 
 
 

It does not matter, all of the CPU/PCIe slots are the same on that PSU. You can use the ones you circled green or the ones you circled red. I'd use whatever gives you the neatest cable management, but it doesn't matter other than that.

I have 144Hz G-sync display (ASUS PG279Q). V-sync is always off.
CS:GO - G-sync off BF1 (played ) - G-sync off BF4 -G-sync off Rocket league - G-sync on GTA V - G-sync on Witcher 3 - G-sync on Basically if the game is really competitive then G-sync is always off, but if you can really enjoy and "take time" playing the game then G-sync gives much smoother picture and it IS better. I personally have not noticed screen tearing when playing competitive games without G-sync.
 
Hope this helps.