Donutwithacape

I am running 2 sticks, 32gb each. The previous iteration of the build was 32gb, 16gb each stick. Same issue happened. I've not tried memtest86, I will try this. All drivers, except for BIOS, are up to date. I'm going to update both BIOS and chipset tonight.

First things first: ASRock B650e Steel Legend WiFi (updated to Ver 2.02) Ryzen 7800X3D (w/ DeepCool Peerless Assassin IV) G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo 64GB 6000Hz (EXPO enabled) ASUS TUF RTX 3070 Ti Samsung 990 Pro 2Tb (boot drive) Crucial P3+ 2Tb, Crucial MX 500 2Tb, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB (data drives) SeaSonic FOCUS PLUS Platinum 850w Windows 11 The issue that I'm having with this build that hasn't been fixed yet is that I am getting random freezes at any given moment. Seemingly more common while in games (any game), but does happen when outside of games (browsing internet, on discord, etc.) These freezes happen maybe once every 3-4 days, and last only maybe 2-4 seconds each. I can still hear sounds from the PC like people speaking in discord and game sounds, but I cannot move my cursor and the entire PC visually freezes. When it recovers, it doesn't "catch up" with itself like a lag type of freeze. I'm asking for help in here because this issue has been persistent even through, in this order, a replacement of the motherboard (along with BIOS updates), replacement of both RAM sticks, a clean Windows 11 reinstall, a replacement of the GPU (I originally upgraded to a 7900xtx but returned it for other reasons), and the CPU most recently. I actually only just put the PC back together after RMA'ing the CPU, given that was the last thing that made sense to replace for this issue only for, lo and behold, the exact freezing issue to happen again that night. The PSU and the current GPU come from my previous build, both had no issues in my last PC and are about two years old. I'm completely at a loss. Among the pantheon of issues this build has caused me, this is one of the few things remaining that I need to fix. A friend has told me it sounds like a graphical issue butting heads with Win11, but also mentioned it could be PSU related instead. Both of these things I've not had any issue with, but at the same time I understand that I upgraded from a Win10 machine to a Win11 machine. If anyone has any inkling on what I should try, I would be very grateful. While this issue isn't the most cataclysmic issue in the world, it is simply annoying to have to put up with it since I only just build this PC in January, and this issue survived all core part replacements and reformats. Thank you in advance. Quick edit: Not sure if its worth mentioning but a buddy of mine has nigh exactly the same build, down to the case, with none of this freezing. The only difference between our builds are our PSU and GPU (different brand, same type 3070ti)

Hey guys, I built a new PC recently and after solving a myriad of other issues, came across one I can't figure out. First thing's first: Windows 11 Ryzen 7 7800X3D ASRock Steel Legend X670e 2x16 DDR5-6000mhz RAM Scythe Fuma 3 Sapphire 7900XTX Pulse (replaced with ASUS TUF 3070ti from previous build after the explanation of issues below) Samsung NVME 2tb/ crucial 2tb SSD/ Samsung 500gb ssd SeaSonic FOCUS PX-850, 850w 80+ Platinum (from previous build, purchased 2 years ago and had no issues) Lian Li Liancool 216 Case The issue is that for the past 2 days, whenever I start up or wake up my PC, whichever output device that is connected to the 2.5mm jack on the motherboard has a static sound to it whenever the start and end of a sound play. Think of the discord toggle mute function, there is a blip that plays and there is a louder static sound at the start and a quieter one at the end. This happened with music, youtube, etc., but not always just at the beginning and end of the sound. Plugging in something in the front of the PC does not yield this static. I thought at first it was my new headphones but I plugged different output devices into the back of the PC and they all had that exact static, so this tells me that my output devices are not the issue. The "fix" thus far is to unplug and re-plug whatever device is in the 2.5mm jack, and this fixes the issue until the next boot/wake cycle. Obviously this is not ideal for a new PC to be having these issues. I did recently update my BIOS, but it hasn't happened every time since then. Only for the past two days has this been happening. Friends suggest I RMA the motherboard. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

I don't think I did anything else other than the speed, but I also didn't really look for anything else. My knee-jerk answer to your question is no. It didn't die idling, it died mid-game. I just got up to do something and when I came back the PC was off. Not sure if that means anything though, or if you were just stating that a GPU dying at idle is rare just in general. In this instance, it was under load for sure. ultra everything in RDR2. Thank you for your insight, I am feeling better about it not being anything other than a GPU issue. I just think its strange that the GPU caused the PC to turn off, then have difficulty turning back on again?

Hey guys, I'm not entirely sure if this belongs in troubleshooting or somewhere else, so I apologize if this is in the wrong spot. I have a few questions about this new build I just put together because there have been some issues that I'm not savvy enough to know about or to troubleshoot on my own, and none of my friends come to a consensus about what the issue is/was. Sorry for the forthcoming wall of text, I'm just very nervous about this whole thing. To start, the specs are: Ryzen 7 7800X3D ASRock Steel Legend X670e 2x16 DDR5-6000mhz RAM Scythe Fuma 3 Sapphire 7900XTX Pulse (replaced with ASUS TUF 3070ti from previous build after the explanation of issues below) Samsung NVME 2tb/ crucial 2tb SSD/ Samsung 500gb ssd SeaSonic FOCUS PX-850, 850w 80+ Platinum (from previous build, purchased 2 years ago and had no issues) Lian Li Liancool 216 Case I built the PC on Dec. 19th, so not too long ago. When I first built it, the MB posted without any issues. I changed the RAM speed to 6000 in BIOS then hit save & exit, the PC display turned off but didn't restart or shut down. I thought that was odd and I couldn't do anything, so I did the ol' suffocate it by holding the power button down. proceeded to tinker more with connections (the case fans weren't plugged in). Second boot, it took forever to post, but the ASRock manual says it can do that on first post (this was the second post). All in all, there were 3 posts that took either forever or I had to force the PC off. It no longer does this and posts/loads windows without any issue. I think when I hit save & exit on this mobo's BIOS I'm supposed to hit a button on my keyboard to start windows but I don't know. The only thing I noticed before the biggest issues was that the GPU delta between the global and hot spot temps were at a difference of 20c-30c while gaming (it hit upwards of 95c once, usually the hot spot was between 71c-85c) The main problem that really concerns me is this; a few days after using the PC (gaming, work, etc.), I get up mid-RDR2 to do something for probably 1 or 2 minutes. I come back and the PC is off. No RGB, no anything (the RAM RGB stays lit in sleep mode). I try to turn it back on, and nothing. I turn the PSU off and press the power button a few times to clear the static, then try again. The PC makes a small *click* like it attempted to turn on for just a moment, but it did not turn on. Do the same thing again, and the same happens with more of a *click* sound. Third time, the PC turns on without issue and there is no display, just a burning smell but no smoke. Naturally I am very concerned, but I plugged the DP into my integrated gfx on the 7800X3D and windows is up and running. Still smells like burning in the room. HWMonitor does not detect any weird temps, NOR does it detect my 7900XTX anymore. Turned off PC, removed the 7900XTX, and replaced it with an ancient video card (R9 360) I had lying around just in case the mobo is the culprit and I didn't want my 3070ti to get the same treatment. The PC gets glitchy weird multicolored blue/pink/green pixelations before the ASRock posting screen (the screen with the underscore at the top left before the ASRock logo), but ends up posting and loading windows just fine with the HDMI plugged into the R9. HWMonitor does not detect the R9, just calls in something akin to "generic microsoft graphics". After being very afraid of something else happening, I freak out and start an Amazon refund for the 7900XTX and a Newegg replacement for the Steel Legend (which I cancelled shortly after). After speaking with friends who are smarter than me, they all, except for one, think it was a component of the 7900XTX that got fried, not the mobo causing it, since I didn't see any obvious scorching on the mobo nor was there burning smell coming from it. The burning smell came from the GPU certainly, as I put my nose right up to the center of it and BAM, burning. The one other friend thinks it was the mobo that caused the GPU to fry because of the weirdness I had with the first 3 posts. It is very much worth noting that, the same day I had these issues and the GPU fried, I tried to undervolt it in MSI afterburner by 50mV and underclock to 2700mhz in order to reduce heat and coil whine. The undervolting worked splendidly in reducing delta discrepancy and coil whine, but an hour or two later, the issue occurred. After nearly having a panic attack and finally deciding that I thought it was the GPU and not the mobo, I decided to put my previous build's 3070ti in this new PC and give it a whirl. After all, if this GPU fries, then I know it is the mobo and I was planning on getting a new GPU anyway with the 7900XTX. But so far, a day later and gaming that evening (even in RDR2), no issues have arisen. I've decided to keep using this 3070ti for a while, probably a month or so to see how the PC fares with it, THEN upgrade the GPU when I know the mobo isn't to blame. What do you guys think?

Ok thanks for the advise fellas. I'm just really apprehensive about opening the card, I've never done it before and I don't want to break it given it's my only GPU. I've only had it a year and wouldn't have thought dust would have accumulated that much, nor would I think that a different thermal paste would change much. I'll have to experiment

Can all this "tweaking" be done in Afterburner? I have never tinkered with settings before and would be concerned if I messed something up with the fans due to the marketing of the card being zero frozr. I'd be unsure as to what kind of fan curve would be appropriate for which temperatures. Loudness of the fans doesn't mean much to me as long as the gpu isn't going 100% ham all the time.

Hey guys, Recently, I've been thinking about converting my 1070 Ti from fan cooling to liquid cooling, and all I know is that since I don't have any other water cooling in my PC, I need to get a hybrid cooler. I have an MSI 1070 Ti Titanium 8G; this one in particular (from MSI's website): https://www.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-GTX-1070-Ti-Titanium-8G I love my 1070 Ti and I want it to last a long time. Recently, games that ran at no higher than 68C are now running at 74C-81C. Games like Overwatch (was 68C max, now runs up to 79C), League of Legends (stable 68C max, but I feel that's too high for this game even at max settings), ARK Survival Evolved (poorly optimized game, runs upward of 82C). From what I read, these numbers aren't dangerous for the card, even if running that hot for hours. I just don't feel comfortable with numbers that high when games used to run much cooler. Maybe game updates or something made them more GPU-intensive, I don't know. There have been no changes that I made to the game's settings, and I've always run these games at 1440p. Perhaps I'm overthinking things and shouldn't be concerned unless the card hits 90C? Either way, ultimately my question is can I get a hybrid liquid cooler for my 1070 Ti? I can easily find tutorials on youtube but they are for blower cards and that is not what my card is. This is my first time opening up and modding a PC component AND my first time with liquid cooling on any component, so I'm very nervous about doing so, and want to make sure I don't break the card in the process. Thank you!

Hey guys, So, I recently built my first PC and I currently have a Crucial MX500 1TB as my boot drive. I purchased a Samsung 860 EVO 1TB because of a really great sale and I was wondering how would be the easiest way to make the Samsung my new boot drive without having to reinstall everything. I've heard of cloning but I also hear there are better, more stable, ways to do this. I don't know the first thing about this process so any help is appreciated. Moreover, I was going to put a 1TB SSD into my PS4 as an upgrade from the 500GB HDD. Is it worth it to even migrate the data from my MX500 to my 860 EVO and put the MX500 into my PS4? Or should I just say heck it and put the Samsung into my PS4? Thank you!

Hey guys, After finishing my two builds that I planned on, I found myself with a small surplus of case fans that are still very good. I built two PCs in Meshify C cases; one of which I completely replaced all included fans with other ones. So, I have 2 Fractal Design X2 GP-12 fans and one Corsair Air SP20 Quiet Edition not in use at the moment. My PC has 5 fans total: 2x Arctic BioniX 140mm front intakes (~1500RPM-1600RPM) 1x Cryorig QF120 Balance rear exhaust (~1100RPM) 2x Cryorig QF120 Balance on my CPU cooler (Cryorig H7 Dual-Fan config, both at ~1100RPM-1200RPM) My CPU runs between 30°C-36°C when idle, and hasn't ever gone higher than 62°C while under load (gaming), and my mainboard (labeled as such on HWMonitor) runs at around 20°C-28°C idle, and has never gone beyond 42°C that I've noticed. I was thinking to add one or two of the X2 GP-12 fans for the top of the case as exhausts because, well, heat rises. But I read things on this forum and elsewhere that adding too many fans (depending on the case) can cause airflow to get wonky, and actually have a negative impact on the overall cooling of components. So I'm wondering, given anyone's experience and given my case and current configuration, if you guys think that adding more fans is a good idea and, if so, how many and where (on top towards back, on top towards middle, on top towards front, and as intake/exhaust)? Ultimately of course, the end goal is maximum cooling for what I have. Thanks for your input, fellas.

24 hours seems extensive, but I guess that's the point. To stress the card hard enough that the coil whine ceases. I do have the "return for replacement within 30 days" thing from Newegg and I'm pretty sure they'll honor it. I'm sure I can return it still, but I wonder if I should try the stress benchmark first? I have a Meshify C with two 140mm intakes; I'm sure the airflow and cooling will suffice. Everyone seems to think returning for a replacement is the best option. And, I'm not looking for whine free, although that's obviously preferred. It's just that when I tested it in ARK, the whine was rather nasty. Hopefully! So, everyone here thinks that I should try to return the item before trying the "burn" method stress testing? I would think it'd be the other way around. According to the return policy, I can replace it with another of the same card within 30 days, and I've got about another 20 remaining on the policy. You guys really think I should try returning it before the "burn it in" method?

Hey guys, I recently built a PC with an MSI 1070 Ti Titanium and it works really well. Great thermals, excellent performance, the whole shebang except for, you guessed it, coil whine. It's not tiny baby coil whine either. I should note though, that it doesn't happen in games that aren't demanding. I know coil whine is supposed to happen when the GPU is running crazy high FPS, such as in a loading screen, or under massive load (mine seems to only happen under load). Dragon Ball Xenoverse 2 at ULTRA settings runs at 52C with no whine at all. Overwatch at EPIC settings makes it whine a little bit, nothing that bothers me. But when I play ARK: Survival Evolved at *near* max settings, it's very noticeable and loud. I didn't notice it with headphones on, but it's just at the cusp of being noticeable through open back headphones even with game sounds. Trust me, it's rather substantial coil whine. I've tried VSync, and it decreases it a wee bit. I know the whine isn't damaging to the PC, but it's very annoying and I feel like the whine my GPU has is beyond what someone would consider tolerable. I heard that running Unigine Heaven or Valley for 4-8 hours will help to "burn in" the card and may eliminate coil whine altogether, but I don't want to decrease the life of the GPU, if that's something that may happen. I'm very well within the "replacement" timeframe from Newegg, and considered doing so. Do you guys think I should try running Unigine Heaven for 4 hours first and see? Or perhaps someone has another idea? I'm fairly certain the whine is 100% the GPU, as the sound certainly is coming from the GPU and I have a 550w EVGA G3 Supernova. For reference, this is the build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DYhyWD Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!

Sorry, haven't been on the forums for a few days. Ideally, I'd like it to be less than $100.

I was really hoping to get a headset rather than an external microphone with it. But, the price can't be beat so I'll have to look into it. Are they noise cancelling or closed-back? I game in a room with one other person and we're in discord with friends; I just don't want to hear them twice, you know? The half-second delay of hearing them physically and then hearing them in discord is really disorienting.

I have the G230s and they're really awesome. Good quality both audio and microphone, and pretty cheap. So, I can't imagine the G231 Prodigy is worse, or much different.