Mr_Argon
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Apologies for the gap in replying, life happened and took me out of home for a week.
On 3/18/2023 at 12:31 AM, Donut417 said:The issue you're going to have is if you connect a router to a router you will have double NAT. Certain things might stop working, port forwarding will likely be more difficult. What you might consider is seeing if you can turn off the WIFi of the ISP's device and buy a wireless AP instead.
Yeah I was always intending on replacing my current ISP supplied unit. Any router I buy will take the output from the thing I've got on the wall, what you called the ONT.
On 3/18/2023 at 4:07 AM, LIGISTX said:Oh man, have they really gotten that expensive? I used to buy the 3 puck pack for like 199.
Yeah looks like they are within my price range (just) if I buy from Amazon, but then plus shipping (which is an extra 30USD), and Google products in general aren't really sold in NZ, the Google Store barely offers anything, and local vendors are just as frugal.
On 3/18/2023 at 5:41 AM, Falcon1986 said:I think the best coverage will be obtained from better positioning, no matter what you get as a replacement. Wireless routers and APs don’t blast their broadcasts as they please; they need to stay within regulatory limits. They can use different optimizations to get the best stability and speed, but they’re not going to go out of these limits.
Since you have an internet gateway device, you don’t need to replace it. A better option would be to get a dedicated AP or convert a wireless router to AP mode, and mount it at a central location with an ethernet uplink to the gateway. Then you can turn off the WiFi on the gateway and only use the new AP’s WiFi.
Yeah, unfortunately I can't change the position. I am aware that there are limits to the range of a single unit, however what I also know is that the ISP supplied unit is shocking. I borrowed a mates 9 year old router, and it easily broadcast a signal to the other end of my house, and even my garage, which the ISP router can't reach with anything short of a miracle. So I don't really think that I need a router with incredible range, I'm just looking for something modern that will last for a long time.
Thank you all for your responses.
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On 3/16/2023 at 11:30 AM, LIGISTX said:
Google nest Wifi. Mesh systems are sorta just the best. These units work, plain and simple. I have a few deployed at family members houses and small business, and some friends run them. Literally never have any issues.
Google Nest is an option I've looked at, but anything more than 1 unit is out of my preferred price range. I have also looked at this option from TP Link, which seems to also be quite good.
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On 3/16/2023 at 11:25 AM, Donut417 said:
Most in likely this is a modem/router combo. Judging by the speeds Im going to guess you have some form of DSL or coax based connection. If you have DSL and the phone line connected directly to that box, then its a combo, if you have Coax based internet and the coax connects directly then its a combo. If you have a combo you need to check to see if it supports preferable Bridge mode or at least IP pass thru mode. This will effectively turn off the router portion of the box and allow you to use your own router with out having double NAT.
Im not sure how prices look in your part of the world. But WiFi 6 is kinda more main stream down days. That being said, I have the Synology RT 2600AC and we have a 1300 sq ft house. I get coverages throughout. While my router is not in the furthest corner, it's still kinda in the corner. I dont get full speeds to all devices everywhere but the coverage and speeds I do get are enough for our purposes.
If you have the possibility to elevate your router to a higher spot it can help with coverage. I live in a two story house and the router is on the second floor which is why we get great coverage. Another thing is going to be building construction. My house is of wood and dry wall construction. Dense materials like brick, cinder block and concrete will block WiFi signals.
Believe it or not, this is a fiber connection, we just didn't upgrade our speeds from using VDSL, as the cost was too high, and it was surplus to our needs.
As I said, I'm new to the whole networking thing, so I'm not entirely certain how to differentiate between a modem and a router. This is the unit we have. It's listed as a modem, but it acts as a router, so could be a combo unit? It connects to a box on the wall, that's where the internet line comes in from outside.
I have borrowed a router from my mate before (This Linksys unit), and the range was way better than anything the ISP has provided. That's from 2015-2016, so my logic is that a new router will provide even better range, or at least better than our ISP unit.
We can't elevate it much more than it already is. Our house has a wood and drywall interior, so that shouldn't be too bad. The router in my original post just seems to be good value for money. Yes it offers higher speeds than what we need, but that's exactly what I want, I don't want to run into a bottleneck further down the line.
Also a good thing to note is that our house doesn't have ethernet run through it like some houses do.
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3 minutes ago, filpo said:
I did look at that, however quite a few reviews I saw mention issues with the router running hot, and occasionally overheating. As far as I'm aware, the AX55 I am looking at is an updated version, without overheating issues. I am happy to pay the little bit extra for reliability. Thank you for your reply.
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Hi all. I'm not very experienced with routers, but have recently been looking for a new one, as the one provided by our ISP doesn't have enough range. I have been reading a lot of "Best Routers of 2022" lists, and many list the TP-Link AX55 as the best price-performance option.
Is this considered to be a good option for what I need? Are there any alternatives that may be better for my needs?
Info:
Not looking to spend more than 350 NZD (about 220 USD)
Approx. 100sq meter (1000 sq foot) house. Router is unfortunately located in the corner of the house, needs to reach the other side.
Current internet speed is 50 down / 20 up, will be upgrading to 300 down / 100 up very soon.
Use case is mostly video streaming at 1080p (will be higher def after I get a router that has the range) and gaming.
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9 minutes ago, Pixelfie said:
It's not bad, seems good enough for your system. There are still better options.
If you can find RM650x or A650GF for a similar price get that (first one is the best)
Is it worth it for me to spend 30NZD (15%) extra for the RM650x? I understand that its always better to have more reliability, but is that Corsair model worth the price increase? The Cooler Master MWE V2 is B tier on the tier list, the Corsair is A tier.
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Hi all
The power supply in my PC has recently died, and I am looking for a new one. I have gone well over my requirements for my current system, as this one will go into a new one I am planning for next year sometime. The new build will likely have a 3070, along with an i7 or Ryzen 5 CPU.
I used the PSU Tier List to aid my decision, but I would still like to ensure I will make a good purchase.
The PSU I am thinking of at the moment is the Cooler Master MWE Gold 750W. It is the V2 model.
Is this a good choice?
Thank you
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1 minute ago, Brok3n But who cares? said:
Budget? Currency? Special needs (Form factor, wireless charging, charge speed, ports, ect)?
My budget is around 100NZD, although I'm obviously happy to spend less. As long as it has USB A ports it will be great, although a USB C output would be an added bonus. The charge speed needs to be the same or better than my old one (see link in original post), and the bank itself doesn't need to charge particularly fast, but if it does that is an added bonus. I don't care about wireless charging, and in terms of form factor it just needs to be able to be carried
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Hello people
I am looking for a good powerbank to use to charge my phone. I often go on relatively long trips where I only get the chance to charge my phone at night. It needs to be 20000 mAh, and it needs to be reliable, as my last one just randomly broke for seemingly no reason after 3-4 years. Here is a link to my old one,
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20 hours ago, miaow90 said:
HI,I ran into the same situation as you. Did you solve it in the end? I upgraded the BIOS version of B75M-D3H to the latest F15, but my RX480 is still not recognized
Hi.
Updating my BIOS did work, and the card worked well. In the end it did die on me, but it was an ex-mining card, so no surprise there.
Can you boot off integrated graphics? Have you made sure that the PCI-E port works on your motherboard? Test it with another GPU.
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18 hours ago, huilun02 said:
The Redmi Note 9s is the best within your budget on that site
https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/MPHMIX019100/Xiaomi-Redmi-Note-9S-2020-Dual-SIM-Smartphone-6GB1
They are selling the iPhone 7 32GB model as the cheapest iPhone available, at NZD $600
32GB...
You like wasting your time on suggestions that are either unavailable or not within your budget? Why?
I said what my budget was in my original post. And I also know the iPhone 7 is way above my price range from the store, I'm buying it from someone. (Yes its second hand, but I know its been cared for and not used much)
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1 hour ago, huilun02 said:
Please link us to the store(s) from which you intend to buy from
This is so we can make recommendations that are guaranteed to be both available and within your budget at the same time.
I don't play guessing games. And I am not in/from Australia or NZ
As long as its from the past 2-3 years it will likely be available. Here is a link to a local store if you want. I am simply asking for recommendations, not the be all and end all answer to my problems.
Last time I asked (a couple of years ago) I got many recommendations for the Pocophone F1, even though I just said my price point. I just wanted some idea of some good options.
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2 hours ago, dizmo said:
Are you buying from the US?
If not, don't quote USD pricing, it's not really relevant to you.Last time I used NZD I only go told things that were in USD, even though I said it was NZD. I am not buying from the US. I am just looking for some general recommendations.
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I am looking for a phone that is $340 (USD) or less that can compete with an iPhone 7 (32GB).
I am reluctant to go used, although I am willing to consider refurbished as long as it's from a reliable source.
Please also note I live in New Zealand, so I would have to use the global version.
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Hi
Today I decided to use my PC to contribute to Folding@home. I set up my main PC with an account etc and left it running for a bit. I came back for a bit to check on it and it was running fine with its job. I also decided to get my laptop going. I used all the same things to sign in. I left it as it was trying to find a job. I came back 10 mins later to find that both computers were having a problem with the Web Control Page. Both were refreshing the page, and it was only showing the default stuff, no jobs, points, and my account wasn't there. (See attachment - the URL has an IP in it for some reason, even with proper URL its the same). I thought the program had crashed, but on both computers it was running (according to Task Manager). I shut down and turned back on both, but nothing changed. I had to uninstall the client from my laptop to get it to stop. Its still running on my PC, but I have no way to stop it aside from deleting the client.DON'T WORRY, I MANAGED TO RELAUNCH EVERYTHING, ITS FINE NOW
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Just now, mxk said:
i gotta ask whats the problem with buying used because its going to get you a better card than a 1660
like i understand you might not be comfortable with the risks but ebay has had buyer protection
I'm not happy buying used because I have before and that's left me with a $200 piece of useless metal. It broke after the sellers warranty was finished.
However, if you or someone else can find a card that I can 100% rely on working, or with a decent warranty I will consider it.
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13 minutes ago, izaini said:
I've tried with and without the GPU.
Do you mean that you have actually taken the GPU out? If not, try using the integrated graphics with the GPU taken out. I had a similar problem, and it ended up being that my motherboard BIOS was out of date and I had to update it to support my GPU
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My PSU also makes those sounds when I do that, not sure if that is normal. It sounds like a dead GPU, similar thing happened to me a month ago.
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I'm not sure then sorry
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1 minute ago, Ashton Powell said:
Call of duty bo3, Minecraft, Fortnite
Hmm I'm not sure then. What are you using to see usage? Task Manager?
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10 minutes ago, Ashton Powell said:
Hi I recently found out my rtx 2070 isn’t going over 15% usage. My cpu doesn’t go over 15% either but I know that part is good. Is there a way I can fix this or make my usage be at full potential?
What are you using it for? If gaming, what games?
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7 hours ago, OmniTaff said:
Ye living near the Coast in QLD has produced a bit of Rust on some of the parts as well, so i might just give it a bit of a dust refurbish and replace some of the fans . Whats weather like in NZ atm?
Once I finish Uni i want to go and have a squizz at the south Island (I'm from Wales U.K originally)
Honestly I've got no idea what the weather is like. As I write this its night time, the sky's are clear, but by the time I wake up in the morning it could be raining. Even the weather channels aren't 100% accurate right now. By about November it should be almost consistently sunny.
Take everything I've written with a grain of salt though, who knows what the weather is doing.
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I don't think there would be much point in upgrading. The i7 950 still seems like a capable CPU, I'm sure that it will still work just as well as a low end Ryzen CPU, although I can't say how much longer it would last. I would suggest just use it until it dies, then worry about getting Ryzen.
Maybe get 8GB of RAM.
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We have a 4k TV. However that is a moot point, as even 1080p struggles to load. Please refer to my previous reply as to why I know a router upgrade will solve my issues.