KhakiHat

If you still have an older gpu, I would try maybe tossing that gpu back in to see if it operates as it would normally.

Disable XMP and try again.  If that doesn't fix it, please list all your parts exact by model # and if necessary, which hardware version you have.

Motherboard: Aorus Z790 Elite Ax
CPU: Intel 13900k
RAM: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo DDR5-6000 2x32gb
GPU: ASUS 4080
PSU: Corsair RM1000x
Case: Corsair 4000D
 
So here's the deal. Built the entire computer, turning on no boot. When I flip the PSU power switch, the 4 red LEDs on the MB blink quickly then go black. No illumination of the status LED.
Pressing the power button either on the case of MB results in a small "click" in the PSU and nothing more.
Pulled the PSU and tested all voltages with a multimeter. PSU is fine.
Tried pulling components until I was down to just the MB with the 24pin and 2x8pins connected. Same results. Even pulled the MB and PSU completely out of the case. Same results.
Got a replacement for the exact same MB thinking something was wrong there since the PSU seemed fine. Same result with the new MB.
Hooked the new MB and system up to an old, known working Corsair HX850i PSU. Same exact result as . Hooking that PSU back to a known working system, it works fine still.
 
What in the world is my next step? I already ordered another PSU thinking if it wasn't the MB, it must be the PSU. But that was before I tested with the HX850i and it did the same thing.
Did something fry both the MBs? The one thing I haven't tried is hooking the RM1000x to my old system that's running off the HX850i, but I'm afraid if the RM1000x is frying the new MB, I'll end up damaging my old rig.
 
Thanks in advance.

Remove the silver battery from the motherboard, also called the CMOS battery. Remove it for 5 minutes and put it back in and turn the PC on. Removing the CMOS battery will reset the BIOS to original settings.

Check if there's a newer bios than yours and flash it if there is.
 
Install the latest chipset drivers. Download from AMD, not Gigabyte.
 
Check your SSD for a firmware update.
 
Use
Dism /online /cleanup-image /restorehealth
Sfc /scannow
to check your Windows.
 
Retest your RAM.

did you change anything else in the bios? If not then just turn it off and see how it performs after the fact

This is a great idea, but if OP has never done much with networking or virtualization, they probably don’t want to learn both at the same time with their router being virtualized. That’s a sure fire way to take down your internet for a while accidentally. I run pfsense virtually on my homelab, but that isn’t something I advise unless the person knows what they are doing already, or is in a position where they know enough about virtualization and enough about networking to take that jump; learn both on their own first, then go to the next level. It’s easy enough for a new user to lock themselves out of the internet with pfsense on bare metal…. 

If you know what you're doing it can be.

it's probably advisable to configure a DMZ for the machines running the minecraft servers so it's a seperate network and your normal local network can stay behind the firewall without open ports.

I'm sure there are people here who can give better advice on the matter.

sadly, port forwarding can be an attack vector for potential bad actors if it's not configured properly afaik.
https://superuser.com/questions/561140/how-safe-is-port-forwarding-in-general

If you're worried, you can take every computer using that router/network and block the ports you've forward, to include on the host server excluding specifically the minecraft applications.
 
Otherwise, if I remember correctly, the minecraft server ports are 'relatively' safe. The above is the 'right' answer if you're worried. It just involves creating windows firewall allow+deny policies.

A genuine part of me wants to keep the parts for a general game hosting server, previously I was running a few VMs on the machine with the same hardware and a bunch of extra DDR4 RAM I had laying around since upgrading my main rig to DDR5.
edit: I just didn't wanna go and buy more hardware to end up not liking pfsense/opnsense, so I figured this was a nice balance as I also have multiple storage drives to mess around with. I literally just installed an M.2 for opnsense and unplugged my SSD's from the previous system config to give opnsense a try.
 
I didn't plan on going too crazy with the setup of pfsense/opnsense(still on undecided on which I will use, rn I'm opting for opnsense). For obvious reasons, this machine would lack all power efficiency, I planned on using a meter I have around to see how much power it is actually consuming. I could probably even go into the BIOS and undervolt it so that it isn't sucking as much power. I already bought a small network switch to use for wired devices. The only addition ports I purchases was a small, old intel networking card off of amazon for the sole purpose of setting up WAN but also to connect the network switch. So I have 3 ethernet ports on the router build, the extra port was in case the main motherboard port didn't want to be recognized.
 
I only planned on using one WAN config, so this opnsense machine would replace my current router(Netgear Nighthawk XR1000). The current router would just be turned into a crappy access point for some of the devices that I have that aren't able to use ethernet. I did read that the switching capabilities were there with pfsense, just to avoid them because software switches are way slower than physical switches.

Same here, I like to give people as many options as possible.  Sometimes saving an AC outlet is useful, or if you decide to get a router appliance that can have 4-8 ports that you might as well use if they're there and fit your use-case.  Its all about having options and knowing when and how to use them.

Example, I routinely configure my Linux boxes with bridges as it has its benefits.  Easy access to a spare port if I need one, consistent MAC address for DHCP if I have a problem with the primary NIC so need to use a second one temporarily.  Easy to add a VM should I decide to play with a different OS.

That said, if those PCs are never going to actually talk to each other, they just need Internet - then using a software bridge is absolutely fine.  Some older consumer routers even did that to avoid paying for a switch chip.  Its a perfectly viable way to save on an AC outlet and in fact is even necessary in some scenarios, such as if you want both a tagged and untagged VLAN on your LAN port (unlikely for most people granted but I do that for IPv6 on a VLAN only and IoT devices on another one).
 
Though it can be a bit of a pain configuring the primary LAN as a bridge due to needing to do it all in the right order (you have to make all the changes first before applying them) to not lose connectivity with the web UI.

I think I may have confused something as I don't think you have tagged and untagged on the same interface regardless in FreeBSD.

Either way, there is nothing wrong with using bridges if you aren't pushing traffic between devices on that bridge.  Even then, its not like its going to break, you just might max out the CPU doing that which is why its not recommended.

Agrees. It’s totally doable, but when you can get a gigabit switch for 15 dollars… just get a switch if you need a switch. That’s my point 🙂 
 
That said, I have a test bench that sits next to my pfsense box, and I do provide a separate subnet that is firewalled off from the rest of my network for that test bench via a third port on my quad NIC. So there are use cases for sure, I was just trying to educate the OP that for most flat home networks… just use a switch if you need a switch. Don’t ask pfsense to be a switch just to save 15 dollars unless your just trying to do it to learn, or you really don’t have 15 dollars. 

Considering most consumer and entry level business firewalls come with celeron CPUs, yours is more than enough.

That is completely and utterly overkill for pfSense, should work fine though its not going to be very power efficient using about six times as much power when idle than a device designed for use as a router.  They typically use laptop chips as a desktop chipset alone can use almost as much power as an entire laptop based unit.

Dont use userbenchmark as its inaccurate. Actual reviews are much better.

Welcome to the forums.
 
Please describe your problem more clearly. What does "screen goes funny" mean? What does "restarts itself but it doesn't" mean? What exactly happens?
 
Is the light you mention a hard drive activity light on your case, or something else?
 
You don't mention what type of cooler you are using for the CPU. What is it?
 
Do you really mean that every time this happens you remove whatever cooler you have, take the CPU out of the motherboard socket, put it back in, and then reinstall the cooler? 
 
Finally, in the future please make your thread titles more descriptive of the problem. Every week there's at least a dozen threads on these forums with titles that are just something like "help pls." If the title summarizes the nature of the problem, there is a better chance someone with relevant knowledge will notice it. 
 
 

Something similar happened to me once. I solved it by plugging the m.2 on a different slot (even if it isn't technically the fastest one) and unplugged my hardrive. After that I went into the bios and there was the m.2. Now honestly I didn't plug in the hardrive again (I decided not to use it) but I got the m.2 to show up. Also even if you cleared the cmos you have to make sure that you did it the right way: Unplug everything from the back of your pc
Unplug everything from the back of your pc Take the battery out Let it sit like that for 5-10 minutes (I usually let it for 10 minutes just to be sure) Put the battery back and plug eveything back into the pc P.S. when troubleshouting I tend to plug in whatever I will need (not devices like speakers, webcams etc etc)
 
 

I forgot to mention that I did clear the CMOS by jumping it. I will try to boot it without any storage installed. It’s just so weird since it worked and then I had and update and bam it stopped.

It's a spooky graphics card for halloween

ok I'll try that when I can

If it sat unplugged for those couple years I'd be looking for a CMOS battery before I assumed motherboard short.

When this happens, is it like the computer shuts off and comes back on? If so it might just be memory training. Leave it to do it's thing. New AMD builds can take a few minutes for memory training. 
Can you post a picture of your computer with no side panel? We might be able to see something not hooked up or hooked up wrong.