KhakiHat

Assuming that you have a trustworthy PSU and that it is high enough wattage...

A new GPU would likely do the most for a game's performance but they are nearly impossible to find right for a decent price.

Getting a new CPU(LGA 1200, or AM4 socket types), motherboard(LGA 1200, or AM4 socket types, some RAM(DDR4), and a corresponding cooler for the CPU((LGA 1200, or AM4 socket types) would probably do you wonders.

The PC as a whole would probably run way more efficiently as you are currently using some pretty old hardware.

You could probably get away with buying the cheapest motherboard you can find for the current socket type and from a trustworthy brand. For a CPU, you could even just grab a current gen i3(11th gen, not 12th gen). Snag 16GBs(DDR4) of a RAM. Lastly just any cooler outside of the stock cooler. Make sure it comes with some thermal paste or you'll have to buy some separately. 

CPU - $130-$200+

RAM - $40-$100+

MOTHERBOARD - $80-$150+

COOLER - $30-$100+

Here are some rough estimates, speculative to change.

I'd just find whichever model motherboard you have and find their RGB software corresponding to their boards.

What router and modem do you have?

What LED's are lit up on the router? 

1 hour ago, vstock997 said:

I don't think so.

What OS are you using? It could very well be that the extra little bit that you could have is actually being used just to keep your PC afloat even if you're not technically using it.

edit: Never hurts to check task manager, it could maybe point you to an app or service that is eating up RAM if present.

12 hours ago, CallMeReign said:

Nono like, when I turn off the smart fan, the temps are absolutely fine, 72c, but the problem is that it's running max speed AT ALL TIMES instead of according to the temps (like fans go slow when idle, and go fast when under load) and if I turn on smart fan, the fan is just idle even under load, and it displays inaccurate temps on pretty much every software except for HWMonitor

Ohhhh, I see. My bad

Well if it is running at 87c, that's definitely why the fan is cranked all the way up. I feel like certain generations of AMD CPU's have a reputation for running hotter than they should or are even supposed to. Being to as that is a semi-older chip, you could try unmounting the cooler and swapping the thermal paste just to make sure that it isn't dry thermal paste, as thermal paste is a really inexpensive fix if that is the problem. 

Is it a 3 pin or a 4 pin connector?

You should be fine, so long as you aren't planning any overclocking down the line

On 12/10/2021 at 6:28 AM, Pbrug_1 said:

Yes however my particular one was produced before the BIOS update that let them be used. My box does not say Ryzen 5000 series ready, only third gen compatible. I'm going to do it just in case as well.

Couldn't hurt, just definitely don't turn off your rig mid flash, it'll brick your motherboard

6 minutes ago, Pbrug_1 said:

I have to do this because I am using a ryzen 5 5600x and my bios isn't updated to use this yet.

If I am interpreting the website correctly, it looks like the 5600x is supported by the MSI MAG B550M MORTAR.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B550M-MORTAR/support#support-cpu

Did you have anything running on the device when you had this stat checked? 

Describe "budget friendly" and also what country you'd would be buying from? Can't recommend a certain website or prices if you can't buy from that website in your country.

8 minutes ago, lostreaper said:

i have a full pc and plan on flipping the motherboard or using it as a place holder as i am upgrading my cpu to a ryzen 5 5600x 

3 minutes ago, lostreaper said:

i HAVE

a old xeon 3.6ghz 4 core cpu

The GIGABYTE B550M DS3H AM4 AMD B550 Micro-ATX mobo would be usable with the Ryzen 5 5600x if you planned on using it. It terms of "flipping" it, you likely wouldn't get that high of a return if that was your only reason for buying it as its only $20 off right now. After shipping and packaging it, you may even lose money if that was your goal.

You shouldn't have to delete anything, flashing is a sort of rewrite essentially(complicated but a simple way of putting it).

Is there a reason you need to flash the board?

Depends on what kind of processor you plan on throwing on the mobo. It's a lower-end motherboard, so a higher end chip might not do very well or be supported in the first place.

wOrKs PerFeCTly oN BrEad

28 minutes ago, WereCat said:

What happened to your keyboard?

 

*Desk PC* - lazy version

it's an ergo boi

Are any of parts running outside of default clock speeds?

Say your RAM, GPU, or CPU?

If so, I would turn them all to clock speeds. I've also heard that lowering the power draw for mining is more preferable, especially if you would want to extent the life of your GPU. There is likely an option in the BIOS for minimizing the power draw for your GPU.

I would try to monitor your PC doing something you would consider intensive for your system to see at which point it crashes your system. From there you may have a better idea of where the problems start and stop

Has the PC been modified at all since you used it last? Or perhaps been moved?

Make sure everything is plugged in properly.

What are your system specs?

On 11/8/2021 at 10:33 AM, Slizzo said:

So I can speak with a little bit of authority now. Previously I was running an Aorus 2080 Ti Xtreme Waterforce WB with my 10940X @ 4.9GHz all core, on an EVGA Supernova P2 850W.

 

Swapped the 2080 Ti out for a 3080 Ti FTW3, and entire PC is still quite stable. OC'd the 3080 Ti up a bit, put memory up to +750MHz and ran the OC scanner for the core clock.

I think my issue pertained more just to my specific processor model. All other aspects of my system were working fine and are continuing to so long as I don't mess with the GHz of my CPU

I've used 2 LG ultragear monitors for the last year or so @ 2k and I haven't experienced any problems.

On 10/31/2021 at 1:10 AM, Toolhead1987 said:

I did have hard crashes when I first got done Building my new PC.
but I think it was more CPU related because once Installed the newest BIOS the hard crash issues were gone.
What kind of CPU do you have?

i9-10900k now clocked @ 3.7ghz, whereas before clocked @ an unstable 5.1gz

I mean, if restarting your PC works. You could just try turning off your PC when you are done using it each time, that way when getting back on your PC, there are no flickering issues.

Do you experience any issues with the outlets you are plugging the charger into with other devices? An example could be like trying to charge your phone from the same outlet as you'd use to charge the laptop.

It would probably depend more on what types of games you are considering playing with the 3060