Volbet

Well, after having tried linear mechanical switches for a while, it was time to move back to click-switches. 
Unfortunately, I wasn't really able to find any pre-build keyboards I really liked and that were available to me, so I had to jump down the rabbit hole that is custom mechanical keyboards. 


 
The kit is a Kindle Star Orion 87 with Kailh/Novelkeys Navy Blue switches and GPBT Black Ash key caps. 
The keycaps were chosen because they allowed me to do a hack job combination of US ANSI and Nordic ISO, so I can still uniformly have Nordic characters with an ANSI keyboard layout. And the color match between the case and the keys turned out really well by lucky coincidence. 
 
All in all, it's a rather expensive solution to a trivial problem, but I'll admit that it was a fun experience to actually put together a keyboard for the first time. I finally understand why so many people have this as a hobby. 

Well, after having tried linear mechanical switches for a while, it was time to move back to click-switches. 
Unfortunately, I wasn't really able to find any pre-build keyboards I really liked and that were available to me, so I had to jump down the rabbit hole that is custom mechanical keyboards. 


 
The kit is a Kindle Star Orion 87 with Kailh/Novelkeys Navy Blue switches and GPBT Black Ash key caps. 
The keycaps were chosen because they allowed me to do a hack job combination of US ANSI and Nordic ISO, so I can still uniformly have Nordic characters with an ANSI keyboard layout. And the color match between the case and the keys turned out really well by lucky coincidence. 
 
All in all, it's a rather expensive solution to a trivial problem, but I'll admit that it was a fun experience to actually put together a keyboard for the first time. I finally understand why so many people have this as a hobby. 

This is a repost from somewhere else, so excuse the Black Sabbath album.

This is Astrid (left) and Bertha (right).
They're of the breed Broholmer (or Danish Mastiff if you prefer), a uniquely Danish breed of Molosser.

I don't believe in hard, honest work, so I decided to become a lawyer. 
I've gradually moved away from doing specialized cases over the year. I now serve more of a general knowledge and advisory role. I still do go to court on occasion, but less and less as time has progressed. 
My main areas are IP law, tenancy law and employee rights, but I also work with construction disputes, insurance law and data protection. 
 
I used to do freelance programming and computer networking, but I rarely do that anymore. I only really jump on the odd programming job if it's interesting. 
 
 

I don't believe in hard, honest work, so I decided to become a lawyer. 
I've gradually moved away from doing specialized cases over the year. I now serve more of a general knowledge and advisory role. I still do go to court on occasion, but less and less as time has progressed. 
My main areas are IP law, tenancy law and employee rights, but I also work with construction disputes, insurance law and data protection. 
 
I used to do freelance programming and computer networking, but I rarely do that anymore. I only really jump on the odd programming job if it's interesting. 
 
 

I guess I'll see what a camera with a phone is like. 

One of the most common questions on the subforum is whether a motherboard is capable of powering <X impedance> or <insert headphone here>.
 
Almost every time, someone will suggest that high impedance headphones are harder to drive and low impedance headphones are easy to drive.
 
Normally someone else will chime in, suggesting that sensitivity is also important. But is the original rule of thumb – that low impedance headphones are easier to drive – actually true in practice for motherboards?
 
General Trends
 
To test the rule of thumb that higher impedance headphones are hard to drive, I plotted headphones on a Loudness vs. Impedance graph to see if a correlation between the two existed. For the purposes of this experiment, I calculated loudness using a model of a typical high-end consumer motherboard, an ALC1220 with 75Ω output impedance. Motherboards usually have a ~75Ω output impedance.[1][2][3][4][5] Although different chips will produce different loudness results, the same trends should remain true for any Realtek codec, since their only relevant effect on loudness in this scenario is maximum voltage swing.
 
I chose AudioScienceReview's headphone measurements as a starting point for this research, since it reports its own sensitivity and impedance measurements (I did not want to go looking up specs for every single headphone listed). I also figured that its dataset would be applicable to the sorts of headphones that a modern headphone buyer would be considering (unlike, say, Innerfidelity, which is high quality but has a more esoteric headphone selection).
 

There is no significant correlation between impedance and loudness for a headphone driven from a typical motherboard, at least with this dataset. If anything there is a very weak trend suggesting that higher impedance headphones are easier to drive.
 
Perhaps the sample size on AudioScienceReview is too small. Here is the same exercise repeated with Reference Audio Analyzer's tested open and semi-open headphones (closed headphones were omitted because their measurements included active headphones), with 191 measurements in total.

Expanding to a larger dataset doesn't suggest that high impedance headphones are harder to drive.
 
Overall, then, I would say that the general rule of thumb that high impedance headphones are harder to drive is false; at least from a motherboard, there is either no correlation between impedance and loudness, or a very weak positive correlation between impedance and loudness.
 
What about Planars?
 
Some might argue that the rule of thumb has an exception: planars. I would argue that it isn't a very good rule of thumb if it isn't applicable half the time. Still, though, does a general rule that high impedance dynamic headphones are harder to drive hold true?
 

With the dynamic headphones tested on ASR, not really. Though the direction of the trendline has reversed, the correlation between impedance and loudness is still too weak to suggest any general rule; the R2 is about the same as it was before. And even if the correlation were strong, the expected difference between a 32Ω and 300Ω headphone would be only 2dB.
 

The same was repeated with the conventional dynamic AKG, Audio Technica, Beyerdynamic, and Sennheiser headphones on RAA. I sanitized this dataset manually somewhat (removing variations and the K1000; consider this a possible source of bias). Once again the correlation is weak.
 
A Better Rule of Thumb
 
Just use efficiency and ignore impedance.
 

There is a strong correlation between headphone efficiency and loudness, even without correcting for impedance (impedance numbers are displayed for each headphone plotted). Headphones with particularly high or low impedances deviate from the trendline somewhat, but not by much. It's certainly much better than relying on impedance, which has little to no correlation with loudness on its own.
 
This is expected; impedance has at most a linear effect on loudness, while efficiency is a measurement in decibels: an exponential effect. Mathematically, sensitivity/efficiency should almost always have a larger effect on loudness than impedance.
 
Overall, the rule that high impedance headphones are harder to drive is not generally true in practice. Instead sensitivity/efficiency should be treated as the main indicator of how difficult a headphone is to drive, even in the absence of impedance information.
 
Appendix: Beyerdynamic
The Beyerdynamic DT series is unique for having multiple impedance variations on supposedly otherwise identical headphones. "Which Beyer model should I get?" is one of the more common variations of the "can my motherboard handle X impedance?" question.
 
In both datasets (ASR and RAA) the DT990 Pro 250Ω is an outlier for low efficiency. I wonder if this common headphone in particular is responsible for some of the perception that Beyerdynamic's high impedance headphones are hard to power. Despite being rated at the same efficiency as all the other DT990 variants, it is more power hungry and more voltage(!) hungry than even its 600Ω Beyerdynamic brethren.
 

 
Because efficiency measurements are not reliably comparable between different measurement rigs, I have color-coded the comparable ones.
 
RAA has tested three variants of the DT770 Pro (in yellow). Innerfidelity has tested three variants of the DT880 (in blue). RAA has also tested the DT990 600Ω and DT990 Pro 250Ω (in red). Although these are not exactly the same model of headphone, in practice a prospective DT990 buyer would almost always consider these the standard variants for each of those impedances. Beyerdynamic officially rates all of the headphones here at 96 dB/mW.
 
Although there appears to be a trend, the differences between impedance SKUs within a single headphone model are small; likely on roughly the same order as unit-to-unit variations.

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The HTPC/VR PC is finally getting a fan update:

The HTPC/VR PC is finally getting a fan update:

I guess I'll see what a camera with a phone is like. 

I've actually never owned a Sony smartphone before, but I've had friends with various newer Experia phones and I've really liked them.
 
From my short experience with the Pro-I I do like it more than my old OnePlus 8 Pro. I still have some things to figure out, but it seems like a really neet phone.

I guess I'll see what a camera with a phone is like. 

I guess I'll see what a camera with a phone is like. 

I guess I'll see what a camera with a phone is like. 

Granted, but at the cost of your own mortality
 
 I wish for a turkey sandwich, on rye bread, with lettuce and mustard.

Well, it only took six months to arrive:

Now I can finally play Valheim on max settings. 

At least it's what it looks like right now.
 
Edit: Here's my actual desktop:

I got my second shot of Phizer last Saturday. Luckily, Denmark was able to aquire a huge quantity of vaccines from Romania, moving the schedule forward quite a bit.
 
Honestly, that last shot hit like a fucking truck.
I'm usually pretty resilient to being sick, but I really reacted to getting my second vaccine. My entire Sunday was spend feeling sore, tired and generally unwell.
I'm just fine today, so I'm glad I got vaccinated. I can only imagine how hard I would been affected by actual Covid-19.

Aww that's a massive shame you're allergic to chrome. So you can only really have veg tan leather, in terms of leathers. With shark skin it doesn't really get damp, so to speak, it wicks moisture quite readily. Basically what you'd expect from the hide of an aquatic animal, it doesn't absorb water (as long as the backing of the strap is also made of water resistant material). I'd probably suggest FKM rubber then, a good place to get FKM rubber is actually Aliexpress, since most strap makers massively overcharge for FKM straps that are basically just re-branded Chinese straps. Tell me if you're interested, I can point you in the right direction.
 
The dial on the Mayerling is a plain silver sunburst. I'm not 100% sure if they ever did a MoP dial.
 
The watch next to the Mayerling is a Raketa Copernicus, it's a refurbished 80s example, the case and dial isn't original. The vintage ones are a lot more affordable than the new ones since you can get a nice vintage one for about $150, the new ones being around 1500 euro. Basically on this watch the minute hand (the black hand) is the Earth, while the hour hand is Jupiter (which orbits the sun every 12 years). Posted about this watch  on another thread below.
 
 

I recently bought a Yema Navygraf Heritage:

It's pretty much a copy of Yema's original Navygraf from 1966, all the way down to the color scheme or yellow and burned orange. 
The main reason I bought is because it's the cheapest (and honestly most stylish) way to get a watch with Yema's newest inhouse automatic movement, YEMA2000.  
The bracelet it came with was not not really all that great, as the clasp used stamped steel. just seems weird to make the most moved part of the watch out of such a brittle material. 
So I replaced it with a black NATO strap. I do prefer my analog watches on a NATO or fabric strap anyway. 
 
The watch itself is very nice. I don't have anything bad to say about it at the price it sells for. It keeps time rather nicely for a mechanical watch, and the build quality and finish are very nice. 
 
I also got another edition to the quirky watch collection:

This is also a Yema watch, and it's obviously an homage to the LED watches of the 70's. Think Pulsar, Hamilton, HP or even Yema's own watches of the day. 
As is apparently the trend with Yema, this also came on a terrible folded steel bracelet, which have shaved off the hair on a good 5 cm of my arm. So, I replaced it with a somewhat fitting Milanese mesh strap. Makes it look like a Casio from a parallel universe.
It's not too useful as a watch, honestly. LEDs are very power consuming, so, like in the 70's , you need to push the side button to see the time. At the price this sell for, it's weird they couldn't build in an accelerometer, like in a smartwatch or like my nixie watch. 
Also, the numbers aren't that orange in real life. In person the numbers are the trademark red of old school LED watches.  
 
Lastly, does anyone here know a good place to buy watch straps in the EU? I've looked around and most places seem to ship from the US; UK or Far East. 
 

I imagine they should be obtainable in continental Euroupe, but you'll probably have to look harder to find smaller shops (I get a lot of mine from a pretty small-time store, they have the best prices and a pretty good range). I think a Fleurus shark-hide strap would fit your Navygraf quite well; it's a French made strap that's made of water-resistant shark skin. And as for bronze watches, they might look quite tacky in the photos, but they do darken pretty quickly due to the fact that bronze oxidises quite readily. Hell, they might not even look that shiny out of the box, depending on how long that watch has been waiting in the warehouse.
 
The marine nationale watches are cool, though I think the best looking one is the women's one with the white bezel insert. Though I wouldn't get one because a 34mm watch would look daft on a guy with 7.5in wrists like me.
 
Also yeah, the Mayerling is very cool. Just gotta love the pop of colour the second hand provides. Mine has a silver dial, and I think it has a lot of that 70s flair that I really love.

 
My other Mortima is a SuperDatomatic, another 70s model.

I recently bought a Yema Navygraf Heritage:

It's pretty much a copy of Yema's original Navygraf from 1966, all the way down to the color scheme or yellow and burned orange. 
The main reason I bought is because it's the cheapest (and honestly most stylish) way to get a watch with Yema's newest inhouse automatic movement, YEMA2000.  
The bracelet it came with was not not really all that great, as the clasp used stamped steel. just seems weird to make the most moved part of the watch out of such a brittle material. 
So I replaced it with a black NATO strap. I do prefer my analog watches on a NATO or fabric strap anyway. 
 
The watch itself is very nice. I don't have anything bad to say about it at the price it sells for. It keeps time rather nicely for a mechanical watch, and the build quality and finish are very nice. 
 
I also got another edition to the quirky watch collection:

This is also a Yema watch, and it's obviously an homage to the LED watches of the 70's. Think Pulsar, Hamilton, HP or even Yema's own watches of the day. 
As is apparently the trend with Yema, this also came on a terrible folded steel bracelet, which have shaved off the hair on a good 5 cm of my arm. So, I replaced it with a somewhat fitting Milanese mesh strap. Makes it look like a Casio from a parallel universe.
It's not too useful as a watch, honestly. LEDs are very power consuming, so, like in the 70's , you need to push the side button to see the time. At the price this sell for, it's weird they couldn't build in an accelerometer, like in a smartwatch or like my nixie watch. 
Also, the numbers aren't that orange in real life. In person the numbers are the trademark red of old school LED watches.  
 
Lastly, does anyone here know a good place to buy watch straps in the EU? I've looked around and most places seem to ship from the US; UK or Far East. 
 

Rename the post "Please delete" and and report the post. Then the mods will take it from there. Unfortunatly there isn't a way for users to delete posts

This is a repost from somewhere else, so excuse the Black Sabbath album.

This is Astrid (left) and Bertha (right).
They're of the breed Broholmer (or Danish Mastiff if you prefer), a uniquely Danish breed of Molosser.