Volbet

Worked as a temp at a it-support center. One day a customer called, because her printer wasn't working. I offered to drive to her house to fix it (she lived about 100 miles from my workplace). I got there just to find out she had not plugged the power cord into the wall, and the printer was fine.   

I guess I've been slacking in posting some of the group buys that finally have arrived:
 
First up is the SP-111 R2 in lavender:

I decided to build this out with Gateron Melodic switches, Durock V2 stabilizers (mainly because they came with 3U wires) and the keycaps are some Domikey SA Cyberpunk ABS caps. 
The switches are mounted to a (badly) modded carbon fiber plate. Modded in order for it to fit the ISO enter and the split left shift. As a solder PCB was the only choice, obviously the switches are all soldered in. And yes, it's a pain the ass to solder 111 switches, but I fear the day i might wanna try some different switches. 
 
This board is actually really fucking nice, and I know this is weird, but for me the best part is the dedicated caps-, scroll- and numlock indicator lights. it's something you see way too little on custom keyboards. It's also nice to have a custom keyboard with a numpad. 
And while not a roomy keyboard, it doesn't sound like it. I would honestly liken the sound of the keyboard more to old plastic keyboard than the modern customs made of metal. It sounds really good with the clicky switches. I do think a lot of the sound is down to the very isolating sandwich mount, where the plate goes all the way to edge of the case, creating a band around the entire keyboard. 
 
The only two bad thing I have to say so far is that:
You have to reflash the firmware yourself in order for the keyboard to work properly. Else the keymapping is all over the place and VIA/QMK/VIAL won't recognize the keyboard correctly. Took the better part of two day to figure out what was wrong, but now it works perfectly and the keymapping is just like it should be.  The recess for the USB cable (both for the computer connection and the connection between the two halves) is extremely shallow. So while I do wanna use a longer cable between halves, I can't fit any of the cables I currently have in my possession.      
 
Next up is the Machina Orbit in red with a copper bottom:

This is a hefty 65% keyboard, weighing in at 2,55kg fully build with a POM plate. 
 
The switches used are Gazzew Boba U4Ts, which have had their springs swapped for a long 100g double springs. So it's an extremely heavy and very tactile typing experience, which you won't really find with any other switch. The switches have also been lubed with Tribosys 3204 and filmed with Deskey poron films. 
The plate is POM and the keycaps are KAM Command PBT caps, which are are sculpted, flat keycap profile. It uses TX AP stabilizers, which are my current favorite stabilizers to use, as snap-ins are so easy to install. 
The plate and PCB are mounted using rubber gasket in the tadpole-style.
 
The only mod I've done to the board is the forcebreak mod. I don't really know if it was necessary, but I did it just to be safe. It's not like it's going to hurt. 
This is also a really nice board that doesn't really need any foam. it did come with both plate and case foam, but I opted to not use any of it. And the sound is really nice and full. 
 
Man, I'm jealous of that Zoom 98. It's one of those boards that I really wanted to try, but I just couldn't justify the price to myself. 
I've pretty much loved all the Wuque/Meletrix keyboards I've tried, but I have yet to actually own one. One day maybe...
 
Also,  the WS Morandi switches are some of my favorite linear switches. Considering their price, they're a bargin.

The groupbuy for the MM Studio Class 80 finally shipped. Decided to populate it with Prevail Bad Seed Tactile switches and a temporary GMK Laser keycap set. I say "temporary," as I wanna try it out with some WoB SA keycaps, but I've yet to find a good set available with a Nordic ISO layout. 
The only mod I really had to do was the force break mod. Not that I know if it was necessary, but I always do that to keyboards in a aluminium case. 
Also, this is one hell of a big boy, weighing in at 3,6kg (or almost 8lb) fully build. 
The GMK set is really nice looks wise, but I don't think I'll ever get the hype surrounding GMK. Mainly because all the sets I've seen, apart from novelty sets, are completely lacking in tertiary characters on the keys. Only primary and secondary characters are printed, so I guess I have to fire blindly when I wanna do a backslash or an at sign.
 
If you're into retro keyboards, this is definitely a looker, especially if you got the white case for it. 
Although, the QC on it could certainly have been better. I don't know if this is an issue unique to the solder PCB when run in an ISO layout with a 7U spacebar, but the right Alt-key is essentially swapped with the windows key, meaning that the spacebar covers the right Alt-key, while the cover for the Windows-key actually covers the FN/menu-key. 
Now, this is incredibly annoying. 
 
I was able to fix it with VIA and QMK, but it wasn't obvious that the keyboard even supported VIA and/or QMK.  It's not on the MM Studio's website and the keyboard isn't automatically recognized by VIA. You have to go to a third-party seller for the JSON to import it into VIA. 
That would have been really nice to know before I began wiring the switch on the Windows-key onto the right Alt-key. So while it was fixable (either via software or brute force,) it's small annoyances like this that I had hoped the custom keyboard market had outgrown by this point. 
Also, and this is more of a VIA and QMK problem, but the split-shift wasn't programmed properly by MM studio. The right side of a split shift, when running as Danish ISO, is supposed to type "<>\," and out of the box the it was set to the US backslash-key, which types " '* " in a Danish ISO layout. I know why this occurs, as that key is used for backslah in other ISO layouts, but it could have been fixed by just assigning the key to the non-US backslah-key in the firmware. 
Strangely enough, this also isn't the first keyboard I've owned where this is an issue. The NCR keyboard I've posted about earlier suffers from the same issue. 

I build this NCR 80 out for a colleague of mine:

 
I originally intended for it to use Kailh White Owl switches and some white/beige SA profile keycaps, but neither of those things arrived on time. So I guess that will wait for part two.
 
For now the keyboard uses Drop + Invyr Holy Pandas and Glorious PBT keycaps. The color of the keycaps definitely clash with the retro look of the case, but I do like it in a strange way I can't really describe.  
It's also weird for the NCR 80 kit to come with LEDs for num lock and scroll lock, considering that this keyboard contains neither key. 
I probably should also say that the hotswap version of this kit isn't all that easy to build if you use an ISO layout, as you need to move some of the hotswap sockets to other holes by de- and resolder some of them. 

I decided to try another Alice layout keyboard, this time a Keychron Q14 Pro:

The board has been build out with lubed and filmed KNCKeys Clackbits linear switches and PBTFans BoW keycaps. The extra keys over the numpad are just metal keycaps bought from Keychron.
As is the case with a lot of entry-level keyboards, the white that Keychron has gone with for the case isn't really white. In person it has a pretty obvious pink/purple tint. It's not something you notice in daily use, but it's definitely noticeable.
I also decided to do as I say and actually use the included stabilizers. Lubed up, they're actually really good. I put a bit of Krytox 205g0 in the housing, some XHT-BDZ on the wires, and a bit of insulation foam under the wire and all is good. No rattle or sticking in sight.
 
It seems that the "issues" that I've experienced with other of Keychron's aluminum keyboards is still present on the new Pro-line. So I still highly recommend to do a the forcebreak mod, a tape mod and find something to stuff the case with.
For me the filling seem to default to pouring silicone into it:

After I bought the keyboard, Keychron put an acoustic upgrade kit up for sake on their website. As I decided to go all in, I can't really comment on how well that works, but it might be worth it, if you're interested in a Q-series Keychron.
 
But without any kind of filling, the keyboard has a rather loud metallic ring. Every time you hit a key it's like hitting a bell.

DOIO Megalodon 3 knob Pad. Its really well built, the VIA set up for the 4 layers is so easy and simple to set up.
 

 

 

 

I have a few: some are very good, others less so.
In short: JM-101 are great, especially for the price. PBT-10 and T8 are really good as well, costs 40-50$ currently, can recommend. Avoid PBT-12 and all related color schemes unless uneven thickness of the legends don't bother you.
 
JM-101: Double-Shot ABS OEM profile, "retro" color scheme (beige/off white with darker grey modifiers and red accents). Overall one of my favorite, they sound great to me, they feel nice and the legends are crisp and evenly sized on mine (I have two sets, used one at home and one in the office until recently). Not the thickest keycaps, but I was bored so I used a kitchen scale to weigh the numblock keys really quick (didn't feel like dumping and sorting everything, but that would be more precise): 23g vs 20g of the stock K10 keycaps. They definitely feel more premium than the price suggests to me!
Price is currently 20$, 25$ regular price. Totally worth it imho!
(https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keycaps/products/double-shot-abs-full-set-keycap-set?variant=39417055707225 )
 
PBT-02: I couldn't find those on the store anymore, but the PBT-40 are the closest ones I could find (in light and dark grey). Overall OK, no real thoughts on those. Legends are clear and even, if you like the style these are fine. A bit more "plastic" sound imho compared to the JM-101
23g for the numblock.
https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keycaps/products/double-shot-pbt-osa-full-set-keycap-set?variant=40315983364185
 
PBT-39: Double-Shot PBT OSA. I have to admit, I bought those and haven't used them yet. Even worse, I barely remembered I ordered them.... like the PBT-02 they look fine in the box, no thoughts on long-term use though. Nothing wrong with them though it seems, unlike others...
https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keycaps/products/double-shot-pbt-osa-full-set-keycap-set?variant=40315983200345
 
PBT-10: Cherry Profile Double-Shot PBT white on black. Really nice keycaps, currently the one on my V6. Legends are great, they feel and sound nice and thocky with the Oil Kings, a bit higher pitched since they are smaller and lighter due to the being cherry profile. I am pretty sure I have seen these around a lot, like on the Drop Sense 75 they currently offer. They look very much the same.
40$ is pretty fair for them, especially considering the kit comes with 219 keys! So no need to buy extra packs or look for the correct size modifier keys. No international keycaps though (except ISO layout).
https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keycaps/products/cherry-profile-double-shot-pbt-full-set-keycaps-white-on-black-wob
 
PBT-12: Cherry Profile Double-Shot PBT in grey, white and blue. I don't like these, and I can't recommend these!
Material is fine, they sound good with a higher pitch that I found characteristic for most cherry profiles (which are lower, less material, less inner volum etc., guess that is why).
My issue is that after a few days you will notice: the fonts are uneven. Some letters/legends are just thicker than others, which can give the feeling that random keys are bold font. No, not just the F and J, but also others. Maybe they have resolved this in newer iterations, however, I can not recommend them!
I would assume that the other color versions likely use the same molds/process and therefore likely have the same issues. So I would stay away from all the cherry-profile PBT color sets.
https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keycaps/products/double-shot-pbt-cherry-full-set-keycap-set-grey-white-and-blue
 
T8: OEM Dye-sub PBT 'Developer' : Not bad, the legends are relatively crisp for dye sub (a little fuzzy compared to double shot) and they look pretty close to the picture in color. A bit more muted in person, but that might just be my monitor blowing colors out of proportion. Again, haven't used them a lot, but liked the material, though they have a rougher texture.
Pretty thick material at 33g for the numblock.
https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keycaps/products/oem-dye-sub-pbt-full-set-keycap-set-developer

Hey thank you for the quick and detailed reply!
 
I think it is not just the U4Ts, I also tried Gateron's Baby Kangaroo switches, and those are equally loud with a slightly higher pitch. I think the pronounced tactile bump and the 'trigger like' style of the bump just make it really hard to not bottom them out hard.
 
Interesting to learn about a "half" force-break mod, I only ever saw it applied on all points of contact. I might try to go back to no force break on mine before replacing the pieces of switch pad with electrical tape. Interesting to see what the difference will be. Currently I don't really hear any metal chatter, apart maybe of the space bar.
I still have the silicone dampener of the V6 around, maybe I give it a try to use that in the Q6, but as you said I'll probably need to figure out how to deal with the
daughter board.
 
Honestly I don't find it that sacrilegious to not want to have a gasket mount. When I first tried it felt really weird, guess I am just way more used to it. It does help with bottoming out though. A good compromise I found was to basically foam or cushion mount the plate/pcb sandwich (like the V6 I mentioned earlier). Depending on how much you tighten it the flex is more or less pronounced to non-existent, but it still cushions the impact and does change the sound quite a bit (hard to describe though).
 
On my work K10 I actually found a good way to make it feel substantial and thocky (at least to me), by adding just a few spread out but somewhat random foam pads (these are the ones I used: https://keygem.com/products/kbdfans-module-foam) to the pcb. My idea was to partially fill up the volume and reduce reverb and any dampen any 'resonances' of the plate/void, but to retain some of the deep, hollow sound. The bottom tray was filled with a layer of Noico automotive dampener, above which I placed a layer of 3mm foam tape. Together with the SA keycaps it sounds quite hefty (the car dampener added a lot of weight though).

The U4T's are generally really loud. The combination of the long pole, the plastic composite and the tactile bump really makes them present sound-wise. My U4T's are currently spring-swapped to some 100g dual-stage springs, and while that did help with the bottom-out sound, the return became exponentially louder. it's a switch that just wants to be loud, it seems. 
 
Well, with "full" force break mod I just mean that I've placed electrical tape at all the points where the bottom case screw unto the top case. 
I've seen people only to the center or corner point, so I just wanted to specify that I coveres all the points. 
The silicone pads on the Q-series isn't really enough to dampen the chatter between the top and bottom case, in my experience. Nothing really beats the tried and tested forcebreak mod. 
 
I partially did the whole silicone pour in the Q6 to dampen the flex from the gasket mount. I know it might be considered sacrilege, but I don't really like my typing surface to give under my fingers. 
So yes, the silicone pour will, depending on how much you pour, interfere with the gasket mount. But it definitely is possible to pour little enough to not interfere with anything. It's just important to cover the two indents for the daughter-board cable and the potentiometer. 
But the main reason for the silicone pour was to make the keyboard sound denser. For all its heft, the Q6 sounds rather hollow and brittle. I did try both poly-fill and car dampener in the past, but it didn't really help. The silicone I used is rather high in density, so it does make it sound substantial.   
 

I decided to give linear switches another go in my work keyboard, and I also had the best, worst idea to date.
Because I'm a very heavy-handed typist, I usually just bottom-out any linear switch I've ever used, so I wanted to try some heavyer springs. That lead to me spring-swapping my Prevail Epsilon switches to a 150g bottom-out Sprit spring. 

 
It actually does work as intended. Typing on linears is a lot easier with that much force needed to bottom out. 
I can't recommend it for gaming, though. That would likely lead to Carpal Tunnel Syndrome sooner rather than later, but it's really cool for typing. 
 
It's an Angry Miao AM AFA.

You're best bet for a keyboard that's hotswap, full-sized, white and in stock would probably be the Ducky One 3 RGB in white: 
https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/en/One3-RGB-White
Although, availability can vary by region. 
Just keep in mind that the Ducky board has north-facing LEDs, which means you can run into issues with Cherry-profile keycaps, if you're not using a long-pole switch. 
It is a very expensive option for what you get, though. 
 
If you can live with the keyboard being a very light silver, the Keychron Q6 is a good option for the price, even if it does require a bit of modding to be at its best.  
Keychron is also launching the Q5 Pro sometime in the near future. It doesn't really help you right now, but it does seem to launch with a white color option. And while it is a 96% keyboard, it does have a numpad. 

One thing I've experimented with in the past is adding a ball bearing to the pole well. That way you'll shorten the travel significantly.
Although, it's a very expensive solution, as there's a lot of trial and error involved. It also means potentially adding a slight rattle to every switch, which, depending on who's experiencing it, is incredibly annoying.

Finally built the qk65 that's been sitting on my shelf a while
Switches: keebfront DOOM switches lines with tribosis 3203 gazzew style with dialectic grease on the leaf.
Keycaps : KAT Kata
Stabs: TX stabs lubed with dialectric grease
Mods : force break mod
This build is also Abit heretic as there is no foam at all on this board which kinda feels illegal on a qk65 but it sounds pretty good. And definitely different from your typical marbly qk
 
 
 

I build this NCR 80 out for a colleague of mine:

 
I originally intended for it to use Kailh White Owl switches and some white/beige SA profile keycaps, but neither of those things arrived on time. So I guess that will wait for part two.
 
For now the keyboard uses Drop + Invyr Holy Pandas and Glorious PBT keycaps. The color of the keycaps definitely clash with the retro look of the case, but I do like it in a strange way I can't really describe.  
It's also weird for the NCR 80 kit to come with LEDs for num lock and scroll lock, considering that this keyboard contains neither key. 
I probably should also say that the hotswap version of this kit isn't all that easy to build if you use an ISO layout, as you need to move some of the hotswap sockets to other holes by de- and resolder some of them. 

I build this NCR 80 out for a colleague of mine:

 
I originally intended for it to use Kailh White Owl switches and some white/beige SA profile keycaps, but neither of those things arrived on time. So I guess that will wait for part two.
 
For now the keyboard uses Drop + Invyr Holy Pandas and Glorious PBT keycaps. The color of the keycaps definitely clash with the retro look of the case, but I do like it in a strange way I can't really describe.  
It's also weird for the NCR 80 kit to come with LEDs for num lock and scroll lock, considering that this keyboard contains neither key. 
I probably should also say that the hotswap version of this kit isn't all that easy to build if you use an ISO layout, as you need to move some of the hotswap sockets to other holes by de- and resolder some of them. 

I build this NCR 80 out for a colleague of mine:

 
I originally intended for it to use Kailh White Owl switches and some white/beige SA profile keycaps, but neither of those things arrived on time. So I guess that will wait for part two.
 
For now the keyboard uses Drop + Invyr Holy Pandas and Glorious PBT keycaps. The color of the keycaps definitely clash with the retro look of the case, but I do like it in a strange way I can't really describe.  
It's also weird for the NCR 80 kit to come with LEDs for num lock and scroll lock, considering that this keyboard contains neither key. 
I probably should also say that the hotswap version of this kit isn't all that easy to build if you use an ISO layout, as you need to move some of the hotswap sockets to other holes by de- and resolder some of them. 

They're definitely a bit lighter feeling than the Cherries. Although I do feel like the tactile click is a bit higher in the actuation, which I kind of like as it seems a bit easier to actuate the key without bottoming it out. 
 
Like I said, I'm going to use this for at least a month to try and get a more developed opinion. 

With how this is described it doesn't sound nefarious. Rather, this sounds like either an error in Corsair's onboard macro-recording function or like user error, where people unknowingly start recording and executing macros. 
If it is indeed an error on Corsair's side, a firmware upgrade will hopefully fix it. 
 
I do own a Corsair K100, but I haven't encountered this error. 

I finally got around to organizing my switches and other keyboard stuff.

And by "got around to" I mean I discovered that IKEA sell cheap pegboards and containers. I also calculated the amount of containers wrong, so I apparently need to go back to IKEA at some point for more.
I still need to lube the Drop + Invyr and Gateron CJ switchs, hence why the containers are empty.
 
For the price you can't really go wrong with Akko switches.
If the choice is between Jelly Blues and Jelly Purples, I would go with the Jelly Purples. It's a really nice tactile switch.
My only real criticism of Akko switches is that there can be some inconsistencies in both feel and sound between switch batches.
 
I personally found the Jelly Blues to be a bit gimmicky. The dual tactile bump essentially means that the switch has a tactile bump on both the down- and upstroke. The Jelly Blues even couples that with a dual stage spring. It all makes for a really strange feeling switch.
 
Whether you should go with a tactile or linear switch is unfortunately not something we can answer. It's all personal preference, and the only way you can figure out your preferences is by trying different switches.
You can obviously watch or read reviews of switches online, but that can only get you so far.

I finally got around to organizing my switches and other keyboard stuff.

And by "got around to" I mean I discovered that IKEA sell cheap pegboards and containers. I also calculated the amount of containers wrong, so I apparently need to go back to IKEA at some point for more.
I still need to lube the Drop + Invyr and Gateron CJ switchs, hence why the containers are empty.
 
For the price you can't really go wrong with Akko switches.
If the choice is between Jelly Blues and Jelly Purples, I would go with the Jelly Purples. It's a really nice tactile switch.
My only real criticism of Akko switches is that there can be some inconsistencies in both feel and sound between switch batches.
 
I personally found the Jelly Blues to be a bit gimmicky. The dual tactile bump essentially means that the switch has a tactile bump on both the down- and upstroke. The Jelly Blues even couples that with a dual stage spring. It all makes for a really strange feeling switch.
 
Whether you should go with a tactile or linear switch is unfortunately not something we can answer. It's all personal preference, and the only way you can figure out your preferences is by trying different switches.
You can obviously watch or read reviews of switches online, but that can only get you so far.

I finally got around to organizing my switches and other keyboard stuff.

And by "got around to" I mean I discovered that IKEA sell cheap pegboards and containers. I also calculated the amount of containers wrong, so I apparently need to go back to IKEA at some point for more.
I still need to lube the Drop + Invyr and Gateron CJ switchs, hence why the containers are empty.
 
For the price you can't really go wrong with Akko switches.
If the choice is between Jelly Blues and Jelly Purples, I would go with the Jelly Purples. It's a really nice tactile switch.
My only real criticism of Akko switches is that there can be some inconsistencies in both feel and sound between switch batches.
 
I personally found the Jelly Blues to be a bit gimmicky. The dual tactile bump essentially means that the switch has a tactile bump on both the down- and upstroke. The Jelly Blues even couples that with a dual stage spring. It all makes for a really strange feeling switch.
 
Whether you should go with a tactile or linear switch is unfortunately not something we can answer. It's all personal preference, and the only way you can figure out your preferences is by trying different switches.
You can obviously watch or read reviews of switches online, but that can only get you so far.

Decided it was time for a custom work keyboard, as well.

 
I was quite a bit more limited this time around, as I was basically forced to find a full-sized barebones kit that supported an ISO layout. Cue the Keychron Q6. 
 
The kit is, obviously, an ISO keychron Q6 in navy blue, the switches are Gazzzew Boba U4 silent switches with a 68G bottom out force, and the keycaps are Tai-Hao Dark Tunnel PBT keycaps.
Keycaps can also be a bitch to find, since I needed something that came with all the keys for a full-sized keyboard that also supported Nordic (or in this case, Danish) ISO. 
 
And to make this suitable for an open-plan office I've also stuffed the case with poly-fill, holee-modded the stabilizers and foam modded the spacebar. All made for a very quiet keyboard that's also has just the right amount of tactile feel. 
The VIA and QMK support of the Keychron boards are also nothing to scuff add. Really useful for setting up application shortcuts on the four non-standard buttons on the top right of the keyboard. 
 
Enjoy. 
As much shit as Fallout 4 gets, it's a really good action-roleplaying game. Probably my second favorite of the 3D Fallout games. 
 

Decided it was time for a custom work keyboard, as well.

 
I was quite a bit more limited this time around, as I was basically forced to find a full-sized barebones kit that supported an ISO layout. Cue the Keychron Q6. 
 
The kit is, obviously, an ISO keychron Q6 in navy blue, the switches are Gazzzew Boba U4 silent switches with a 68G bottom out force, and the keycaps are Tai-Hao Dark Tunnel PBT keycaps.
Keycaps can also be a bitch to find, since I needed something that came with all the keys for a full-sized keyboard that also supported Nordic (or in this case, Danish) ISO. 
 
And to make this suitable for an open-plan office I've also stuffed the case with poly-fill, holee-modded the stabilizers and foam modded the spacebar. All made for a very quiet keyboard that's also has just the right amount of tactile feel. 
The VIA and QMK support of the Keychron boards are also nothing to scuff add. Really useful for setting up application shortcuts on the four non-standard buttons on the top right of the keyboard. 
 
Enjoy. 
As much shit as Fallout 4 gets, it's a really good action-roleplaying game. Probably my second favorite of the 3D Fallout games. 
 

Decided it was time for a custom work keyboard, as well.

 
I was quite a bit more limited this time around, as I was basically forced to find a full-sized barebones kit that supported an ISO layout. Cue the Keychron Q6. 
 
The kit is, obviously, an ISO keychron Q6 in navy blue, the switches are Gazzzew Boba U4 silent switches with a 68G bottom out force, and the keycaps are Tai-Hao Dark Tunnel PBT keycaps.
Keycaps can also be a bitch to find, since I needed something that came with all the keys for a full-sized keyboard that also supported Nordic (or in this case, Danish) ISO. 
 
And to make this suitable for an open-plan office I've also stuffed the case with poly-fill, holee-modded the stabilizers and foam modded the spacebar. All made for a very quiet keyboard that's also has just the right amount of tactile feel. 
The VIA and QMK support of the Keychron boards are also nothing to scuff add. Really useful for setting up application shortcuts on the four non-standard buttons on the top right of the keyboard. 
 
Enjoy. 
As much shit as Fallout 4 gets, it's a really good action-roleplaying game. Probably my second favorite of the 3D Fallout games. 
 

Decided it was time for a custom work keyboard, as well.

 
I was quite a bit more limited this time around, as I was basically forced to find a full-sized barebones kit that supported an ISO layout. Cue the Keychron Q6. 
 
The kit is, obviously, an ISO keychron Q6 in navy blue, the switches are Gazzzew Boba U4 silent switches with a 68G bottom out force, and the keycaps are Tai-Hao Dark Tunnel PBT keycaps.
Keycaps can also be a bitch to find, since I needed something that came with all the keys for a full-sized keyboard that also supported Nordic (or in this case, Danish) ISO. 
 
And to make this suitable for an open-plan office I've also stuffed the case with poly-fill, holee-modded the stabilizers and foam modded the spacebar. All made for a very quiet keyboard that's also has just the right amount of tactile feel. 
The VIA and QMK support of the Keychron boards are also nothing to scuff add. Really useful for setting up application shortcuts on the four non-standard buttons on the top right of the keyboard. 
 
Enjoy. 
As much shit as Fallout 4 gets, it's a really good action-roleplaying game. Probably my second favorite of the 3D Fallout games.