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About CheeseburgerChad

  • Title


  • CPU
  • RAM
  • GPU
    GTX 1060
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 Evo M.2 NVMe
  • Cooling
    Corsair AIO
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow X Chroma TE
  • Mouse
    Mionix Naos 7000

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  1. CheeseburgerChad

    MX Brown Tenkeyless Recommendations?

    Hello guys! I'm looking into getting a new keyboard and given how helpful everyone here usually is I figured I'd see if you guys have any opinions. Basically I currently own a Razer Blackwidow X Tournament Edition with Razer green switches (loud, tactile) which I really like but is sometimes a bit too loud for my liking. I have also spent a good amount of time with a Logitech G610 Orion Red, which has also been a good experience but I would prefer some tactile feedback for general typing and also a Tenkeyless format in general as I don't typically use the numpad and find it to take up unnecessary space on my desk. What I want to know is if anyone has any opinions as to what the best option would be for a Tenkeyless keyboard with MX Brown switches, as I feel like this would be a good compromise for me as I do a fair amount of both gaming and typing. I'd like to keep it under $150 and it must have macro support and backlighting of some kind (rgb is cool but not required). Any opinions and justifications as to why you like that board are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  2. CheeseburgerChad

    OP PC's and how they are NOT a scam.

    I completely agree. There are definitely a lot of other pre-builts that are far better in terms of value and build quality out there. I think in the end the Walmart ones are not something that should be recommended to people, but should still get the job done. A lot of people read reviews before buying products anyway, so hopefully that helps too.
  3. CheeseburgerChad

    OP PC's and how they are NOT a scam.

    Ok. Everyone just calm down for a second. I would like to start by saying that I watched both Steve and Linus' videos and while some valid points have been made, there are people in this thread who do not seem to understand some key points here. Firstly, I think some of you don't realize that the scam people are referring to is the fact that Steve over at Gamers Nexus was sent the wrong model of the system, being accidentally shipped the lower end model when he paid for the higher end one. While this IS a problem on Walmart's end that they claimed they would help with, and I personally do not know how many people other than him had this issue, I don't think it's fair to say that these PCs are actually a scam, assuming you do get the right model. To those of you who are arguing that it is a "scam" ONLY because they are "charging too much" and that "DIY is better" clearly do not understand the place in the market for pre-built machines. Obviously, there is typically going to be markup with a prebuilt because the system builder that you are buying from (in this case Walmart) has to spend money to get people to build the machines (regardless of their age or pay rate) as well as people to decide what parts go into it, not to mention marketing and graphic design etc. This aspect is no different from other system integrators (SIs) that actually do build relatively high quality towers (see Linus' new video series for some examples). While most people on this forum would agree (myself included) that building your own PC is not very hard and will almost always save you a lot of money, there are people in this world that will buy a pre-built either due to a lack of technical knowledge, or simply because they want to get straight to using their PC without any effort going into picking out parts or putting them together, and while they're at it they probably get a warranty too depending on the brand. Acknowledging that pre-built systems, although generally a lesser value, do have a place in the market (even if it's not for you), then we can address the main issue here, which is the questionable build quality. The parts Walmart has chosen to put into this build, especially the motherboard and power supply, are in fact sketchy, as noted by both reviewers, and the thing with the GPU arriving unplugged is an odd issue with a nevertheless relatively easy fix. Although it is clear that Walmart cut some corners to lower their own costs, everyone (assuming the shipping issue gets sorted out between models) is still getting what they technically paid for. Most people will get hardware that is more than adequate to play the games they want to play, even if the thermals of the case are not very good. In the end there wasn't any "fraudulent" activity that would constitute a scam here. I think this is just Walmart's lack of knowledge in the PC market. This is definitely not the first poorly designed pre-built ever. TL;DR: While Walmart has some kinks to work out in the process, people are still technically getting what they paid for, and it's not uncommon for pre-builts to cost more than their value in raw parts anyway. I don't think Walmart is intentionally trying to rip off consumers, but rather just don't have the knowledge or experience necessary to be a quality contender in the pre-built market.
  4. CheeseburgerChad

    Motherboard Resets Before Booting

    Thanks for the advice, but I don't believe this is due to a loose connection, as I feel like then the pc would shut off at random other than when I just boot it up, no?
  5. CheeseburgerChad

    Hardware change equals new drivers?

    The bios is probably part of the problem then as the 1xx motherboards usually aren't meant to be used with the 7-series processors without a BIOS update. Did you follow the procedure in this video from MSI on flashing the newest bios?
  6. CheeseburgerChad

    Hardware change equals new drivers?

    What is the model of your motherboard? Did you change that too when you upgraded CPUs and does it have the latest bios revision?
  7. CheeseburgerChad

    Motherboard Resets Before Booting

    Hello Guys, I'm experiencing a sort of interesting "issue". Basically this is what happens: 1. PC is off. 2. I press the power button on my case, the fans turn on as if the computer were going to boot. 3. After about 3-4 seconds without any video output, my system shuts off automatically. 4. The system turns back on after a second or two. This On/Off cycle typically repeats up to 2 times. 5. My system boots normally and works perfectly without issue even stress tested at full load for extended periods of time. Benchmarks are on par with similar systems. I should note that this only seems to happen about 40-50% of the time that I go to turn my computer on. While it hasn't really caused any functionality issues once the computer boots, I just wanted to check if this is a behavior that I should be worried about or not, and if so what my next steps for troubleshooting should be. I have already determined that clearing the CMOS does not make a difference. I will also list my specs below. Specs: Gigabyte GA-H170-Gaming 3 EVGA 600W PSU i7-6700k (stock) MSI GTX 1070 Ti (stock) Samsung 960 Evo 250gb M.2 SSD 1TB HDD 2x8gb G.Skill DDR4 2133MHz
  8. CheeseburgerChad

    Dead CPU or Motherboard?

    Thanks guys. I'll check and see if I can find a motherboard speaker and go from there.
  9. CheeseburgerChad

    Dead CPU or Motherboard?

    Hey guys, so yesterday I decided to revive my old cpu/motherboard that I had lying around to make a media center pc. For reference I had these working fine about 3-4 months ago. I had purchased a couple parts secondhand that I was going to use for this. Anyway, I got everything hooked up, and now when I try to boot it up all the fans spin (including cpu, power supply, etc.) and the system remains "on" but I get no video output. I have tried both the onboard graphics and a dedicated video card (known working), and cleared the CMOS several times and everything. I even went so far as to swap out the ram and power supply from a different working system, and try different ram configurations but nothing changed. The only thing that made any difference at all is that when I leave the 4-pin cpu power connector unplugged the fans seem to spin faster than they did with the cpu connector plugged in. At this point I'm pretty sure it's either the motherboard or cpu that is dead but I am wondering if anyone has any advice before I just start spending money on replacement parts. Thanks! (AMD A10-7850k APU + Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-H MoBo)
  10. CheeseburgerChad

    EVGA 1050ti upgrade stuck at BIOS screen

    Sounds like a miracle board, where can I buy one? No but seriously motherboards aren't usually compatible outside of a generation or 2 so any motherboard that works with your i5-2400 will still only support cpus of that generation or in some cases the 3rd generation of intel cpus. So you won't be able to do much serious upgrading with a motherboard that also supports that cpu, unless you want to upgrade to a 2nd or 3rd gen i7.
  11. CheeseburgerChad

    Oil cooled pc

    For anyone wondering, google "Mineral Oil PC". Linus and Luke did a build log on a pc built in a clear tank filled with mineral oil, which unlike water doesn't cause electrical problems.
  12. CheeseburgerChad

    Oil cooled pc

    After reading the title I thought you were going to be doing a mineral oil build If you're talking instead about a liquid cooled build I'd use distilled water or another pre-made fluid.
  13. CheeseburgerChad

    How many watts is recommended for this build?

    550W is perfect. I wouldn't go less if you're planning on OC but that should be plenty.
  14. CheeseburgerChad

    Frequently getting blue screen

    Correction: If your ram says it can support up to 3000 then it should be fine running at that frequency, but like I said if the problems go away when you run at stock clocks then you might have to stick to a lower frequency. You can also contact corsair but they might not have much to say.
  15. CheeseburgerChad

    Frequently getting blue screen

    Did the problems go away when you put the ram back to stock speed? Also, I think you are a bit confused as to how memory speed and motherboard supported speed work. Your motherboard might support up to a particular speed, but it is ultimately your physical memory sticks that determine the speed that you can run them at. Check with your memory manufacturer as it is typically indicated on the packaging or their website the supported speeds that that particular set of ram can overclock to. If you only get these issues when overclocking your ram, then you shouldn't overclock it, or try dialing it back to a stable frequency.