rhyseyness

So have you looked into the motherboard waterblocks? The ones which cover the CPU, VRM etc. Having a look yesterday, they looked a lot "shorter" than actual CPU blocks. Maybe have a look into them? I'm not sure how they mount, but I'm sure you can figure something out

Dude that looks sick!! I'll see if I can find you a waterblock. What's your budget and are there any other constraints? (fitting size, mounting, etc.)

An amplifier simply makes whatever comes out of your motherboard louder. So if there's noise on your on board, there'll be noise with an amp. If it sounds ok, just not loud enough then an amp is what you need. If you've got more questions, let us know

The issue there is that the BIOS video format was outside of the display capability of the TV. The TV couldn't scale the BIOS screen to it's display. I find this highly unlikely to happen on any TV from the last 10 years. Also, BIOS' tend to be standard resolutions these days, so it's unlikely to be something the TV can't deal with. Scaling on TVs is pretty decent these days.

Yes, will be fine. You can build the system and use it with a TV just fine. A post test is always a good idea, because if you build the whole computer and then find something is broken, you have to take the whole thing apart, rather than just removing the one faulty component. Hope this helps

High impedance does not mean hard to drive. Also, you don't "supply ohms." Ohms is a measurement of impedance (resistance at a given a frequency, taking capacitive and inductive reactance into account). Sensitivity is a much better measurement of how difficult a pair of headphones are to drive. Don't get me wrong, the impedance is important and has an effect, but it's not particularly important for "do I need an amp" questions. OP, sounds like your old on board can't supply enough power. Best way to find out if the new one can is plug the headphones in and see how they sound. Most modern motherboard's on board audio is pretty decent, but for something 10 years old, the same can't be said. If the headphones are too quiet, you need an amp. If there's noise/interference, you need a DAC. There's no point in getting a DAC or amp for those headphones if your motherboard can drive them just fine. You won't notice any difference. Why do you care whether the old PC can drive them if you have a new one? Surely whether or not the new PC can drive them is way more important? Hope this helps

I'd recommend you just wire a switch up to the xbox "power on" signal. If you're experienced (and by the sounds of it you are), this can be done with a transistor or a relay. Finding the power on signal could well be easier said than done though... best bet is probably the LED on the front of the unit. LED +ve connected to transistor base, and then collector and emitter in line with your +ve rail for the pump. You'll need a low bias voltage transistor (<1V probably), but big enough (physically) to take the current which your pump will draw collector->emitter (1.5A max). +ve from connector-------------Collector-----Emitter--------------Pump +ve | Base | "on" LED +ve Hope that diagram worked You may need a current limiting resistor between the LED and the base of the transistor. Relay works the same way, but I doubt that signal to the LED will have enough power to drive a relay. Finding which pin of the power connector is 12V should be easily done though. Either measure with a multimeter, or look up online. I have no doubt someone has done it themselves at some point or another. EDIT: If you're gonna do this, you want to make sure whatever signal you're using as "on" (transistor base), is only high when the xbox is actually on. Otherwise you're going to end up back with your original problem of the pump being constantly on.

The brick for the xbox one outputs 12V and 5V. This means that the connector which plugs into the xbox end has 12V and 5V across it. I'd recommend you solder onto one of the 12V and ground pins on the power connector inside the unit, where it's soldered to the PCB. It's probably a through-hole connector so should be pretty easy to solder onto... only issue you might have is the PCB acting as a heat shunt. Hope this helps

I'm not that well versed in subwoofer design, but I have built my own speakers (build log linked in signature). I'd have a look through my build log before you underestimate the job As I understand for a sub you want as big and stiff of a box as possible, and a big, high quality driver. 300W is probably a bit much to be honest, unless your room is huge, lol. I find I get plenty of bass from my speakers with 6" woofers, but it depends on the size of your room and how low you wanna go. My speakers cut off (-3dB) at about 70Hz in a 20L (ish) cabinet. I'd have thought you could build something decent with an 8" driver, but like I say, not well versed in subwoofer design. This looks like a thread which might help you out: https://www.avforums.com/threads/diy-subwoofer-newbie.1931825/ Hope this helps, let us know if you have any more questions.

Good point. As Volbet said, that kind of dynamic range is a myth really

DIY is definitely an option, but it's likely to end up being as expensive unless you already have the woodworking tools required. Router, F-clamps, various saws, biscuit cutter, soldering iron.... a tonne of sandpaper if you're painting + all the paint. If you've already got all this and the skills to do it, you'd probably save a bit of money, but the drivers are still gonna be $200+.

Research the difference between sound pressure level (measured in dB) and dynamic range (also measured in dB). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_range https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_pressure dB is used as unit to compare 2 things, not an absolute measurement. 96dB of dynamic range means 96dB between the smallest input and largest input at a given frequency. Sound pressure level is a measure of loudness (what you're talking about) compared to silence, not compared to the same device at it's smallest possible input. They're similar measurements, but by no means the same. This is my understanding anyway, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Hope this helps

Bought new powerline adaptors yesterday, made sure I got ones with a Gigabit port. Now working wonderfully with very few frame drops and much better latency. Thanks very much guys Saved me wasting money on a new router

No worries mate. Hopefully, I haven't actually tested it yet but plan to today. I'll post back here with results

Turns out you're right, it's a 500Mbps adapter with a 100Mbps port... not really sure how this is legal, but looks like time for an upgrade! Thanks for your help

It is 100% wired, lol. Long Ethernet cable isn't an option, as my rooms on the third floor and the router is downstairs. Can't move the router because it's near the adsl port, can't move my room becuase it's a room ? Might have a look into my power line adapters before changing the router then. Don't have an easy way of plugging my pc into the router and testing, although I could try my dad's laptop... I'll do that later and report back. New powerline adapters should be cheaper than a new router so this doesn't sound all that bad. Any recommendations on good ones?

I've just received and set up my shiny new Steam Link because it was on sale. My PC is in my room, and my router is downstairs. My PC is wired to my router via Powerline, and steam link is Ethernet directly to the router. Except for the Powerline adaptor (which is 500Mb/s), everything in the chain is gigabit. I'm experiencing a lot of dropouts and latency issues with the steam link when using to play Dirt 3 (all I've tested so far). I'm using the router supplied by my ISP (BT home hub 5). My question is really, what can I do to improve performance? My initial thought was get a new router, but I wanted to check this is probably the source of the issue, before I go shelling a load of money on a new router. Anyone experienced anything similar on the home hub 5 and found a new router solved their problem? Thanks!

Data rate for 4k UHD video at 60Hz is about 12Gbps. 3840*2160*60*8*3 (number of pixels per frame*number of frames per second*number of bits per colour (8 bit colour=8 bits per colour per pixel)*number of colours (RGB)). Although this website says even more than that so I could be wrong. HDMI 2.0 is 18Gbps, and is capable of 4k60. No wireless standard can currently achieve this, and these are the kind of data rates required for wireless VR... Wireless power delivery is a whole different kettle of fish, but batteries can bridge that gap for now.

I might be missing something, but a new case and PSU will set you back about the same as the eGPU bay you listed. Cheap ATX case and an inexpensive 500W PSU should cost less than $100. Then you can just take the HDD and motherboard out of your current system (including RAM and CPU), and put it in the new case with the new PSU and graphics card. This would be a decent upgrade for very little money. Sorry, just realised you said you don't have a PCIe slot. Ignore all that

Depends on what the manufacturers implementation for external graphics is. Watch Linus' comparison between the Alienware and Razer solutions. EDIT: just seen this is about a PCI-e extension, not an eGPU solution. In which case, yes at 1x, there is going to be somewhat of a limit to performance. What's 1440p got to do with anything? 2k is 1080p. @Track I don't really understand why you want an external solution. You don't mention a laptop at all in your post, so why not just plug your new graphics card straight into the PCI-e slot on the motherboard? There's no risk involved in any of these solutions, except you might void your warranty. Hope this helps

The reason a home cinema is taking up space is because you need more board area to handle the power. Hi-fi amplifiers aren't massive for no reason. If you want decent quality and high power delivery, you need a big unit. Those "board amps" will be highly unlikely to deliver over 50W (if they can even do 50W continuous). Stick with the home cinema, or find a high quality, smaller amplifier. Hope this helps

An adapter is like £3 ($5). Save for one. It's cheaper than making one, lol.

Bluetooth adapter should be fine. Just make sure the volume on the device is turned up to max, then adjust the volume on the speakers themselves. Bluetooth adapter should put out a line level signal, just like a mixer (unless it was a mixamp). Hope this helps

Ohms is a measure of impedance, not "easiness to drive." He may need an amp, he may not. It will depend a lot more on the sensitivity of the headphones (dB/W). You can get 32ohm headphones which are difficult to drive (low sensitivity, need an amp), and you can get 300ohm headphones which are easy to drive (high sensitivity, doesn't need an amp). @Zangtetzu Test your headphones before you decide if you need an amp. If they get loud enough without one, you don't need an amp. If you want them to get louder, get an amp. Impedance is a useful measurement for headphones in some instances, but not when deciding whether you need an amp. Listening is almost always more valuable than anything on a datasheet. Hope this helps

Shouldn't be an issue... not sure what @Blebekblebek means. There should be plenty of bandwidth for your graphics card and your sound card. You'll only be using 17 lanes (one 16x and one 1x).