rhyseyness

You want a DAC, not that cable.

Unless that cable has a DAC built in, it won't work.

USB to DAC then 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable out of the DAC.

2 hours ago, Tecardo said:

A bit of text was cut out sorry ?

 

Fiio Q1 is a good option, it will serve many headphones to come ?

Strongly disagree.

Either get a good external DAC (something from Schitt), or a cheap soundcard.

Anything from Fiio is not gonna sound any better than a soundcard, but will be more expensive.

No it won't damage the receiver.

46 minutes ago, Tecardo said:

A sound card is a dac

Yes...

What's your point?

2 hours ago, Klovnious said:

Nice. Been thinking about doing the same, but not sure if there's any point since I have a AIO cooler.

The cooler you're using shouldn't significantly affect your success.

(Unless you're using a huge custom loop, which keeps the chip near ambient under load without a delid.)

The AIO takes the heat from the heatspreader on the chip.

The interface between the chip and the heatspreader is what's being changed here.

I.e. the heat transfer from the chip to your cooler would be significantly better.

Just now, TheBeastPC said:

One question: Why does the "N" standard even exist if the AC standard delivers higher speeds.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ac

Older devices don't support AC.

Almost all new devices support AC, but are backwards compatible with N.

Wireless stuff tends to stay around a while because a lot of consumers don't upgrade.

N will eventually be phased out, but it will be a long long time.

5GHz- more speed, less range

2.4GHz- less speed, more range

That's all you need to know really.

Reference articles/videos above for more detail.

As long as you're keeping it under 90°C, you're probably fine.

At that point it comes down to noise though.

That cooler is going to be loud af at 90°C!

Hope this helps

Why do you need to improve it?

Does it sound good to you?

If it does sound good, what more do you want from it?

If it doesn't sound good, what don't you like?

Also, as @thom derksen says, how big is the bank?

The speakers you currently have are not amazing, but really depends on your budget as to whether you can afford to improve.

The reveiver looks half decent.

Stupid question, have you set the default audio device to the headphone output, as opposed to the graphics card output?

Cheap sound card/external DAC should solve your problem.

External DAC is the "better" option because you're taking the DAC away from the noisy environment.

Get a good external DAC if you have high end equipment at the "output" end.

Get a cheap sound card (ASUS Xonar DGX) if you just wanna get rid of the noise.

Hope this helps

2 hours ago, FranckTheMiner said:

Yeah, I had thought of that, but I only have access to the CPU on the motherboard, the GPU is covered by some wierd looking tube-ish system I believe is to get a better air flow to the GPU

There should still be a block on it, and you should still be able to change the paste.

Find a guide somewhere on how to disassemble it.

Thermal paste isn't designed to help heat transfer to the air.

All you'd be doing is adding more thermal resistance between the air and the cooler.

This means it'd make thermal performance worse.

Instead of just heat-paste-cooler-air, you'd have heat-paste-cooler-paste-air.

The reason it makes heat source-cooler thermal resistance smaller is because it fills in gaps between the cooler and the heat source.

There aren't "gaps" between the cooler fins and the air.

Hope this explains it for you.

The length of the cable makes it act like an antenna.

It's picking up noise from the surrounding environment.

What you're likely hearing is mains noise.

Either get a shielded aux cable or use it in a less noisy environment!

Sometimes people have success with re-routing the cable away from power lines and noise sources.

Have a play around, if you're not happy, get a shielded cable.

Hope this helps

On 09/08/2017 at 3:49 PM, FranckTheMiner said:

I am in High Performance, as I have been for a long time (probably since I bought the laptop), and it's worth mentioning that I have been doubting of my GPU's vividness, as it seems to have contracted some kind of terminal disease, because it doesn't seem to be working half as good as it used to (just to put into perspective, I was capable of running GTA V on Max settings @ 1080p and have around 20fps stable, and now I barely can run Hitman Absolution and similar titles @ 1080p 60fps, and given the graphical differences, I kind of think my GPU is about to die, which may contribute to this problem... Of course, I had more arguments as of to why my GPU is dying, but I just can't recall them... I'll test your solutions as soon as Vegas renders the video I've been trying to render for the past 3 days ?

Maybe try changing the thermal paste on your CPU and/or GPU?

11 hours ago, FranckTheMiner said:

I haven't tested any of those out, as I am in a fearsome battle against Sony Vegas's rendering army, and so I haven't used my computer for anything else but I can confirm that this happens beyond the main menu (at least on Dude Simulator, didn't test it out on Outlast as even a worse laptop doesn't show that behaviour), and no, it doesn't happen on Windows, at least with as low CPU usage as the one I had while gaming...

Haha, no worries.

Interesting.

Does sound like a driver/software issue more than a hardware one.

I'd recommend you try with the mousepad on the laptop if you haven't already.

If the mousepad has exactly the same problem, the plot thickens.

If it's fine with the mousepad but not your USB mouse, then it's almost definitely a driver/logitech software thing.

Also, are you in "high performance" mode on the laptop?

It could be that when you're not inputting, the GPU/CPU goes into super low power mode and so drops your frames massively... althought I'd have thought this would manifest a little differently.

I think it's worth checking nonetheless.

It's under battery settings in control panel.

There should be "low power/eco," "balanced" and "High performance."

Or something along those lines!

You want to make sure it's in "high performance" when you're gaming.

Get back to us with results once you've tested

Update the drviers/logitech software as soon as you possibly can, as my money is still on this.

17 hours ago, r3loAded said:

I just bought one off Facebook for £50

What a result!

They go for about £100 on eBay :'(

1 minute ago, CUDA_Cores said:

80-90% of it still works. Just ask @iamdarkyoshi, I recently sent him an asus Z68 board, a ton of RAM and an HDD and all of it worked. He had to do some fixing on the Z68 board but after that it worked totally okay. 

 

It is surprising how durable computer hardware is. I have seen motherboards, RAM, power supplies and CPUs thrown across almost 100ft right into a bin where it comes crashing into a wall and down into a container full of hundreds of pounds of other motherboards. I go into the bins, dig the stuff up and as long as none of the pins are bent and there aren't too many caps missing, it still works. 

 

I have made literally thousands of dollars going to scrap yards, digging stuff worth hundreds of dollars out of their pile and reselling it. One time I found 20 (yes 20) Intel i7-2600 CPUs and I got them for $5, because the scrap yard I goes to sells everything to me by weight. I don't give a rats ass what I buy, they only care about the gold content, 

If you find a 3770k, gimme a shout

(Legit, I will buy it and pay shipping)

3 minutes ago, CUDA_Cores said:

That being said, you could certainly do worse. Putting together a build for $50 without using a scrap yard as your source like I do is quite impressive.

 

Anyone who has been on the forum long enough knows I am not lying when I make these prices and yes, I really do get this stuff for that cheap.

Does any of this stuff ever work?

15 hours ago, Zando Bob said:

Yup.

Yup.

Yup.

 

Also, have you tried going past the main menu? They always have massive fps drops, since they're displaying a static image until you click on something, then it has to refresh faster to show the motion. 

I'm asking OP, not you, lol.

I agree that he should try going past the main menu.

Do you get the same issue in Windows @FranckTheMiner?

Have you tried installing/uninstalling logitech software?

Have you tried updating the mouse drivers? (I know you won't be able to do this on mobile data, but this should be your first port of call).

Does this happen with the trackpad, or just the mouse?

14 hours ago, Ethan Rathour said:

Also I was just wondering With the 1060 I run it in SLI so it limits my future expanability unlike for example an rx 480 can run in crossfire 

Almost always go for one decent card rather than 2 worse ones in SLI/Crossfire.

A single card which costs the same as 2 slower ones will almost always perform better...

With less heat, power and space taken up too.

Source: I recently upgraded to crossfire R9 290X's and regret it.

I should have sold the one I had and bought a 1070.

Crossfire 290X's should be as powerful as a 1070, but they do not perform that way.

AOC Agon 27" (CAD$600).

Benq GW2765HT (CAD$450).

This is based on UK to CAD conversion, so I think you can probably pick up either for <CAD$500.

No experience with either of these but I believe they both fit your criteria.

Hope this helps

19 minutes ago, fixitnow said:

ok, DONT ENTER A PRODUCT KEY. 

I know, I know

16 hours ago, anothertom said:

See, I took OP's post to mean that they had three 'high range' speakers (aka bookshelf speakers or satellite speakers from a previous 2.x type system) and a sub (either from an x.1 system or stand alone) rather than literally three tweeters/compression drivers and a low range driver. Possibly OP is from the world of cars, where tweeter is used wrongly and more often as a term for a non-low range speaker.

 

Alternatively not an English native or familiar with the English terminology.

 

Or has a very strange setup.

Good point, your interpretation sounds much more likely than mine