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Everything posted by rhyseyness

  1. The cooler you're using shouldn't significantly affect your success. (Unless you're using a huge custom loop, which keeps the chip near ambient under load without a delid.) The AIO takes the heat from the heatspreader on the chip. The interface between the chip and the heatspreader is what's being changed here. I.e. the heat transfer from the chip to your cooler would be significantly better.
  2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ac Older devices don't support AC. Almost all new devices support AC, but are backwards compatible with N. Wireless stuff tends to stay around a while because a lot of consumers don't upgrade. N will eventually be phased out, but it will be a long long time.
  3. 5GHz- more speed, less range 2.4GHz- less speed, more range That's all you need to know really. Reference articles/videos above for more detail.
  4. As long as you're keeping it under 90°C, you're probably fine. At that point it comes down to noise though. That cooler is going to be loud af at 90°C! Hope this helps
  5. Why do you need to improve it? Does it sound good to you? If it does sound good, what more do you want from it? If it doesn't sound good, what don't you like? Also, as @thom derksen says, how big is the bank? The speakers you currently have are not amazing, but really depends on your budget as to whether you can afford to improve. The reveiver looks half decent.
  6. Stupid question, have you set the default audio device to the headphone output, as opposed to the graphics card output?
  7. Cheap sound card/external DAC should solve your problem. External DAC is the "better" option because you're taking the DAC away from the noisy environment. Get a good external DAC if you have high end equipment at the "output" end. Get a cheap sound card (ASUS Xonar DGX) if you just wanna get rid of the noise. Hope this helps
  8. There should still be a block on it, and you should still be able to change the paste. Find a guide somewhere on how to disassemble it.
  9. Thermal paste isn't designed to help heat transfer to the air. All you'd be doing is adding more thermal resistance between the air and the cooler. This means it'd make thermal performance worse. Instead of just heat-paste-cooler-air, you'd have heat-paste-cooler-paste-air. The reason it makes heat source-cooler thermal resistance smaller is because it fills in gaps between the cooler and the heat source. There aren't "gaps" between the cooler fins and the air. Hope this explains it for you.
  10. The length of the cable makes it act like an antenna. It's picking up noise from the surrounding environment. What you're likely hearing is mains noise. Either get a shielded aux cable or use it in a less noisy environment! Sometimes people have success with re-routing the cable away from power lines and noise sources. Have a play around, if you're not happy, get a shielded cable. Hope this helps
  11. Maybe try changing the thermal paste on your CPU and/or GPU?
  12. Haha, no worries. Interesting. Does sound like a driver/software issue more than a hardware one. I'd recommend you try with the mousepad on the laptop if you haven't already. If the mousepad has exactly the same problem, the plot thickens. If it's fine with the mousepad but not your USB mouse, then it's almost definitely a driver/logitech software thing. Also, are you in "high performance" mode on the laptop? It could be that when you're not inputting, the GPU/CPU goes into super low power mode and so drops your frames massively... althought I'd have thought this would manifest a little differently. I think it's worth checking nonetheless. It's under battery settings in control panel. There should be "low power/eco," "balanced" and "High performance." Or something along those lines! You want to make sure it's in "high performance" when you're gaming. Get back to us with results once you've tested Update the drviers/logitech software as soon as you possibly can, as my money is still on this.
  13. What a result! They go for about £100 on eBay :'(
  14. If you find a 3770k, gimme a shout (Legit, I will buy it and pay shipping)
  15. I'm asking OP, not you, lol. I agree that he should try going past the main menu. Do you get the same issue in Windows @FranckTheMiner?
  16. Have you tried installing/uninstalling logitech software? Have you tried updating the mouse drivers? (I know you won't be able to do this on mobile data, but this should be your first port of call). Does this happen with the trackpad, or just the mouse?
  17. Almost always go for one decent card rather than 2 worse ones in SLI/Crossfire. A single card which costs the same as 2 slower ones will almost always perform better... With less heat, power and space taken up too. Source: I recently upgraded to crossfire R9 290X's and regret it. I should have sold the one I had and bought a 1070. Crossfire 290X's should be as powerful as a 1070, but they do not perform that way.
  18. AOC Agon 27" (CAD$600). Benq GW2765HT (CAD$450). This is based on UK to CAD conversion, so I think you can probably pick up either for <CAD$500. No experience with either of these but I believe they both fit your criteria. Hope this helps
  19. Good point, your interpretation sounds much more likely than mine
  20. That's because it's not a video. http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2515h.htm And no, not really.
  21. Bit extreme! I'd rather live with it than reinstall windows
  22. Just tested with 16.something. No change, so have reinstalled 17.7.2. Now games crash to a red screen as soon as I try to get into a game. Any other ideas?