DrBonesMcCoy

Ideally you want to take apart the case if you plan on painting the interior due to overspray and such but you can paint it as a single unit as suggested you want to do proper paint prep and prime the surfaces before painting. 
 
If you want further details on painting I have a guide here under the General Painting header. 
 

Ok, thank you for your help dude :]

- Make sure it's completely clean of loose dirt to start off with, and remove anything and everything that you don't want to paint. If there are removable parts you want to paint, take those out and do them separately.

- Use sandpaper to scuff up the surface. You don't have to take all the existing paint off, just make sure there's a matte looking surface for the new paint to adhere to. I'd suggest 400-600 grit, if you go too coarse the sanding marks may show through your paint afterwards. Try and get in all the corners as best as possible, don't sand till teh surface is noticeably rough; This will show through the paint.
 
- Thoroughly clean everything again, more carefully this time with a wet cloth, compressed air, anything to make sure you get all the sanding dust out. If the surface isn't properly clean, you'd have particles under your paint
 
- If there are any holes like motherboard stand-offs, where you don't want paint to get into the threads; Either screw a stand-off in from the backside, or use some kind of sacrificial hardware in the front, that'll get covered in paint.Bare in mind if you use a standoff in the front, you may get a white halo around the mounting hole so I'd suggest the first way. 
 
- Mask everything, obviously. And set yourself up in a well ventilated area. I'm not just saying that, spraying in an enclosed space will give you wicked headaches. Respirator shouldn't be needed for a smaller job like this, but that's up to you. I'd wear gloves though.

- Spraying the first coat too heavily is the mistake everyone makes; the first coat should be very light, and appear almost patchy. You want it to look like a light dusting. You don't want complete black coverage, build it up over 3-4 coats. You'll get a better finish.

- When spraying, never go too close, or stay in a single spot for too long. A computer case could be a tricky shape to paint, but for good technique, go on YouTube and look at people painting engine bays, they're a similar intricate shape. They'll move in straight lines for larger surfaces, and flick the wrist in corners or awkward spots.
 
- NEVER spray directly at the surface whilst not moving the can, always keep the spray moving up, down, in any direction really. Staying in one spot, or being too close, will cause too much paint buildup and potentially lead to runs in the finish.

 

For the gaming on linux part, LTT actually did a few episode on that:
 Here is (I think) the most valuable one.
 
For getting into linux itself (https://www.linux.org/pages/download/) go there, pick a distribution you like.
For a beginner I would recommend Ubuntu or Mint (mint resembles windows pretty well), but just google and you'll find pros and cons for each distro (
Kali for example is a package with hacking tools, which might be good if you're stress-testing servers or your network or anything. might be a good place to start)
 
Hope this gave you enough info!
Goodluck!
 
 
 

Just checking into this since I got a PM that was concerned we were trying to conceal the Dbrand product placement and that was worried about us running afoul of sponsorship disclosure laws.Here's what I had to say about Switch Girl in response:
 
Clearly we were wrong in the sense that people didn't think it was funny. 
 
Swing and a miss...

I just sorted it. Right click the volume settings, go to sound settings, under input click device properties. Go to levels and adjust the microphone to 100%...

Got it, they put it in under a bunch of cardboard under the actual bottom piece. a stupid place.

You have a perpetual motion machine, stop abusing Zotac and go cash in on the cool trillion or so dollars that its worth. 

Then find some cheap used hardware and build a freeNAS box, maybe just make sure it has at least 8gbs of RAM, obviously more sata ports and CPU performance the better

But it sounds like you could probably just buy a silence focused case like a Dark Base 600 and stick hard drives in that
 
 
 

I'll try to find a box for it then. I have an old shoe box that I could just fill with bubble wrap lol
 

Firstly i must apologize for my piss poor grammar. English it's not my native language.
 
It's time to give my old trusty AMD fx-6100 to the kids and build myself a new computer. I will be using the computer purely on gaming. No streaming or content creation etc.
 
I chose the hardware but the costs went too high for my liking. Last time i build a computer it was 15 years ago, so i'm no tech savvy. Some of the parts might not even be compatible so correct me if i have made mistakes. Keep in mind that i live in Finland and the prices might be different for you guys living in US.
 
I tried to do the currency conversion to make it easier for you guys.
 
Here is the list:
Samsung 960 EVO SSD 250 Gt M.2 140,90€ / 166$
Asus STRIX GeForce GTX 1070 529,90€ / 626$
Seagate 2TB BarraCuda 3.5" SATA III, 7200rpm, 64MB 74,90€ / 88$
Cooler Master 650W, V650, 80PLUS GOLD 129,90€ / 153$
Kingston HyperX FURY DDR4 2666 MHz CL16 16 Gt 168,90€ / 199$
Noctua NH-D14 75,90€ / 89$
Fractal Design Define R5 BlackOut Edition ATX 124,90€ / 147$
Microsoft Windows 10 Home, 32/64-bit 119,00€ / 140$
Asus ROG STRIX Z370-F GAMING 229,90€ / 271$
Intel Core i5-8600K 3,6 GHz LGA1151 286,90€ / 339$
 
Total: 1881,10€ / 2224$
 
If you guys have any recommendations i would highly appreciate it. The costs need to go down. I'm sure some of these parts could be swapped for cheaper versions without it affecting gaming experience much at all.
 
 
 
 

Hey everyone, I just recently upgraded my computer and when I did I got an MSi Z370 Gaming Carbon Pro AC. The motherboard worked at first but then I started having issues where Mystic Light was taking control of one of my dimms and would not allow me to do anytbing with it. Next I noticed that I was missing a drive, did some trouble shooting and Sata 1 is dead. So now I am going to send it back and get a refund for it. In the mean time I am going to order a new board. What I need help with is finding one that is compatible with all of my components. The main thing is I need to have no issues with my 32gb of Trident Z RGB ram and I would like a decent selection of IO on the rear aswell as RGB on the motherboard itself, the MSi had 7 USB ports on the rear and I'd like to stay around that amount. Also I want to get a good brand that will not have problems like my MSi did not that that was just an anomaly. So I have looked at the Aorus Gaming 7, and the Asus ROG Maximus X. Any other suggestions are welcome and input is greatly appreciated
 
Aorus link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KFX627/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Az7jAbS9EYBKY
 
Asus link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJ944T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dN7jAbHD7MY29

Not getting a 8700k as the 8600k is cheaper and fine for just gaming. thanks for opinions though

@DrBonesMcCoy thank you for your support! If you have any questions or need more direct help, you can always email us at Support@CableMod.com.  

Oh sweet! Definitely going to buy from you guys then!

@DrBonesMcCoy nice thing about shopping with us, if you receive any import tax we will reimburse you for it. You just need to email our support team (Support@CableMod.com) and we will arrange it.

Marketing stuff really... this whole military grade is silly do you really think that the pentagon computers will have yellow rgb motherboards on their computers?
 
Honestly though I like TUF motherboards but if you're after best of best for the i7 8700k overclocking the Prime-A is better even though as I said it is not like either would be bad... Asus is Asus after all.

Ok, Thank you for your help. Think I will get this instead of the standard version.

Phanteks Halo fan grills are compatible with Asus Aura , MSI Mysic Light, and Gigabyte RGB fusion
http://www.phanteks.com/HalosLux.html

I cant guarantee it, as it's not listed as an officially supported. It does have the "same" 4 pin though (they occasionally differ)

Looks like the "Special edition" has the reset button re-purposed to act as an RGB controller.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854060&cm_re=pro_m-_-11-854-060-_-Product

No problem

Yeah I just got notified, sorry. 
The bottom version is the updated version of the kit I believe 

Also, with one of the newer CPU's (8600k) You can easily reach 5Ghz, MUCH higher than previous I5's. I would imagine you can get even higher with a good delid.

Exactly why i'm upgrading. A 1070 and a high end i5 can play 1440p no problem. aslong as I reach 144fps+ in most of my games im happy lol