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About Egg-Roll

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  • Location


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z170A Gaming M5
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2400MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1070 FTW
  • Case
    Thermaltake Overseer
  • Storage
    2x 2TB Toshiba 1x 500GB HGST
  • PSU
    Corsair CX750
  • Display(s)
    2x LG 24M38D 1x LG E2442
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 612 V2
  • Keyboard
  • Mouse
  • Sound
    Corsair Gaming VOID RGB Headset / Micro Innovations MM 650D
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

956 profile views
  1. They are referring to HWM it shows 80C instead of 29C which is 100% abnormal... @Roeliefantje Try shutting down HWM completely (use task manager to make sure it's not got anything still running in either processes or details in Task Manager) and reopen it, also make sure you have the newest version, if you do try one of the older versions at the bottom of the page: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html If that doesn't work try CAM to make sure one of the 2 are not screwing up: https://www.nzxt.com/camapp
  2. True, many of my college friends owned new, but equally after the first year when I had 0 debt a good number had 15-20K. Those that didn't had part time jobs, after the first year half of those with 20K debts never returned. It could be different in the states because of housing/transportation pricing and availability, but what I saw was a whole lot of sub $500 computers and that was 10 years ago(could be different now). I went threw college with a off-lease thinkpad and truth be told compared to brand new ones at the time it wasn't slow once booted, it took about 30 seconds longer than other computers around it to boot, but that was windows XP days where you could actually make it run faster. The thinkpad I put in the videos topic might not be stylish but if you're ok with plugging it in slightly more often you can save a additional $100 from the unit Linus mentioned for equal performance. That said if someone wants a $2500 laptop for a education that costs double the computer per semester and doesn't need it for education reasons that is their choice, my point is most people don't need anything over $500 used or new, and most new units including the $300 shown in the video are stylish enough for school use. Unless your a glamour queen then go ahead and geek out While many would love to live the lives of American Pie and other college movies, reality is far more harsh when you have to actually fund schooling yourself (which is usually the case when people look at $300 or less) and where every dollar counts. That's why I don't think the whole video Linus did was correct for college, maybe for tech/art sectors but that is still a small %, imagine going into school for English Literature BA and you need a good laptop suggestion just to find the newest LMG video? Was it useful? Nope... That's most of the world, and that's the problem.
  3. Is it possible to find a 1060 model for slightly more? It would give better performance and longevity. If not you might want to use the free first year to try upgrading your desktop (if needed) for heavier loads in the future. However go threw every year of courses information and go based on that.
  4. Right... However the $300 computer feels like a afterthought considering he didn't even have it on hand. As I mentioned in the actual topic if someone is looking for a $300 computer they are willing to make some sacrifices and can get equal or better for less buying off-lease units. Each degree requires unique programs, however most don't need to run out and buy a $500 computer let alone a $800+ one. Most laptops now around $300 will work perfectly fine for everyone who doesn't need to compile anything. In fact it's rather a stupid idea to run out and buy something for said courses if you are not going to be doing much if any compiling for the first year. Esp if work is not required to be done right there on your machine, even then you could theoretically use applications to connect to your desktop to do said work if color accuracy is not required. That said if your education is going to cost some 100K+ then go ahead and spend >1% on a laptop. However if you're going into a program that costs 5000-7000 per term for 2-3 years it simply doesn't make sense to walk around with a laptop worth over $1000. As for gaming, well I guess but if you ask me if you're on campus gaming then drop out, simply because your time could be put to better use for longer gaming periods at home (aka doing the homework at the school instead of playing), or idk socializing? For most non tech/art (which is most courses in schools) education all you need is a ok cpu 4+ (8 preferable) ram and a SSD (at least 120gb) for the shity windows 10, find a laptop with 7? a HDD will work fine. Most software required for most courses are not resource intensive, sure a $300 will likely be slower in opening say that one program, and might take a minute longer than the other person who spend $1000, but at least you can eat or party harder than them
  5. No he didn't... He showed off what he had on hand, and what he assumed every college person needed, not what the average college person actually needs (usually just word, excel and power point). He put so much effort into that video he didn't even go out and buy a $300 laptop to test it for his lower priced viewers. If it is from a reputable company (similar to best buy or Walmart here in america), then there should be no issues with warranty, try using that approach.
  6. College or A Full-Time Job

    Not a problem in Ontario anymore So I'm sure others have or will follow.
  7. Transit

    Because if Ontario can do it so can they... I'm referring to VivaNext (useless, the construction is killing off the ridership, because its being done 100000% wrong), and the shepherd LRT... If politicians took their heads out of their anal cavities we'd have a far superior transit system then something drawn by a 6 month old...
  8. Best Laptops for Students.. and anyone on a budget

    College/coffee shops other public locations all have plenty of outlets, and they are free If someone is looking for a cheap $300 laptop they'll use all the free resources they can. When I was in college I never once plugged my laptop in at home, because that costs a funny thing called money Colleges over charge as it is, so use the resources available.
  9. Best Laptops for Students.. and anyone on a budget

    Sub? After add a SSD it is no longer sub... Want sub Linus should start suggesting refurbish/off-lease items. Because there are plenty in the sub $300 category (even under $500 has a awesome selection). http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=710_374&item_id=102364 Here is one under $300 CAD the SSD will likely be brand new, how do I know? I bought one about 6 months ago (maybe not this model) and the SSD showed 0 use in the SMART test. Smaller screen equal performance no extra work required. It's out of stock at CC but they and others do exist (I can't be bothered to do a job that should have been done by Linus) http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-3320M-vs-Intel-Core-i3-7130U/m402vsm376899 Buying new for college is just a waste of money, esp when someones 2-3 year old item that comes with a new drive will work just as good for a lower price. Maybe compare performance and specs on used laptops available on sites like NE and Ebay compare them to new but ensure they are cheaper. Which btw you can pick up the ThinkPad T430 I listed on ebay with variable specs (some with 8GB) for less then listed on CC...
  10. Gigabyte or msi

    Both have their ups and downs, I've owned both companies and all I can say is go based on features which based on the site below is only HDMI... So if you want HDMI because for some reason thats the only cable you own for your monitor then get MSI https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/compare/MSI_H310M_Pro-VD_vs_MSI_H310M_PRO-VDH/BHitems/1402543-REG_1402544-REG If you're using a dedicated GPU and don't care about HDMI, maybe look at the BIOS layout and options (manuals can be downloaded before buying), beyond that board color (both are black so...) and price are the only 2 other things I could think about.
  11. I need a social media detox...

    I haven't posted on Facebook since early 2015. (less the partial eclipse which is only for friends/friendsoffriends) My last public posting was done in Jan 2015 stating: If I don't know you don't request friendship with my closing comment of "They claimed nothing they just requested... I hate stalkers esp ones that can't at least try" While I still use their Messenger to me their platform is dead.
  12. How do you do it?

    I don't throw out anything containing data that I have not securely scrubbed. It is cheaper and easier for me to hold onto it for life than risking anything. Where I live we have recycling depots that are (usually) free to toss home electronics. So I don't actually have much of a issue with that.
  13. Using a actual enclosure like that is prob the best, because the one thing I forgot to mention (I replied during a power outage on my phone) is the ports on the docks do wear out, in some cases rather fast... (Mine: 1/4 ports are sticky feeling 1 is loose the other 2 don't like unlocking always and feels like I am breaking the unit to remove the drive) As long as they are not on for more than 5 or so hours you shouldn't have much if any heat issues. Plus the mobility aspect of it is safer.
  14. I'd avoid docks, I own 2 and when you buy the dual ones they will run hotter. Try finding enclosures with fans if possible, else buy singles or a dual if you can put it near a intake fan for your computer to force airflow. My drives in my computer hit around the low 30's (C not F) while my duals usually idle around 42C. The warranty is mostly on the hdd, when I looked up mine it claimed out of region, but that's because I bought it off of Amazon likely... Plus they don't offer data recovery with the warranty (unless you paid extra for the service) so anything not doa imo is fair game (I always do a full drive check on any drive, it'll take a day but if it fails that I'd return it) But yea if I had better things to do than shucking them I prob wouldn't have, as it was fairly time consuming
  15. The only way I know of disabling the feature has been reported not to work on newer drives, it was done threw some old software no longer supported by WD. 2026 is a theoretical lifespan based on specs, a 3TB no longer really works (it works but recovering the data on it seems impossible now), another 2TB failed a full drive scan... I've yet to have any issues with my Reds 2 of which are approaching 7 years old. https://community.wd.com/t/wdidle3-not-working-on-new-blue-drives-any-help/193353 I don't like it, but with my personal luck I'll keep buying WD Reds and Toshiba's If the OP wants to try saving a buck or 2 they could always try shucking drives tho it should be noted the reds are in 8TB only it seems, but when you can grab a 8TB red for the price of a 6/8tb blue https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/ https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/7gw6d3/nesn_my_book_8tb_17999_wpromo_code_emcbcrb55/dqn8laj/