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My TGR Jane v2 blue grey with Retooled Mx Blacks lubed with 205G2 + 105 Mix 55G TX Springs lubed with LSD oil My Duck TCV3 with Gateron Inks The perfect keyboard for me would probably be an OTD CL with 1984 vintage west german stems in a 1988 PCB mount mx black housing with 55g kbdmod springs, and a set of OG cherry dye subs from a Cherry G81-3000SAA (Blue arabic)

Take a look at the desk pads on dixie mech and novelkeys

iSO so good

TBH this gaming headphone/earphone thing is kinda just a marketing gimmick. You won't have a good soundstage form most earbuds. You're better off getting some decent headphones (Doesnt matter if its branded as gaming) and a dedicated mic if you need one.

It's highly likely that you will damage it if you swap them yourself, and sourcing the right caps may be an issue. I would get a sticker sheet or some short of cover for you keyboard with the right language

Tangies are cheaper than both of them... theyre 60c a switch, inks are around 0.7+ and tealios are around 0.8-1.2

Technically you can, the legends can be POM. Technically not double shot pbt but it is mostly PBT. TBH just learn how to touch type and get a good set of cherry profile dye sub pbt or doubleshot abs

no..? theyre 6usd/10 switches. 6usd per is nixie and hirose prices

How much u willing to spend?

No not really, you can always add hyperspheres or other 3rd party silencing rings TKL, you can always get an external numpad but you cannot remove a numpad (properly) I didn't find it particularly useful, I kept it at 2.2mm for the most part. More of an advertising gimmick than an actually useful feature. Stock Topre is far from silent, there's a lot of upstroke rattle. The Topre Silent versions, ones with topre purple slides (not novatouch) however are quite silent. Topre can sound quite good with some work, third party dampeners and 205g0 can make a topre board sound very good. I wouldn't worry abt it tbh, PBT spacebars and caps in general if done badly can be much worse than a little bit of shine or yellowing on ABS. PBT is prone to warping especially on large keys such as spacebars.

Well you get a superior board, you get a capacitive pcb instead of a membrane

If you want macros there are macropads and there are also keyboards with macro keys such as the Duck TCV3, i69, Jubi, kmac mini, Jer Mini etc. If you need a numpad there's a lot of options for 1800 layouts and CP layouts like the HBCP, TX CP, Bok CP, and LZ CP. There's also layers in QMK & Bootloader.

put it in the oven where it belongs

Gateron Yellows (Get the Black bottom + Milky top ones those sound and feel the best, for linears I would recommend gateron yellows, they have very nice slow curve springs) https://novelkeys.xyz/products/gateron-switches?variant=19441344872541 JWK Linears (All of these have different springs, colours and housing material but are all very smooth) https://store.projectkeyboard.com/products/mauve-switches-10-pack https://www.apexkeyboards.ca/products/h1switches https://www.primekb.com/products/alpaca-linears?variant=31565132922976 https://thicthock.com/products/thic-thock-marshmallow-pre-order

There are rough standards, 60% PCBs and Plates for Tray Mounts are basically universal at this point For TKLs there's the A87 and B87 standards

Why are you going with Gateron Yellow inks then? They're not particularly cheap or a good value. If you want inks get black inks, if you want good value get some black bottom milky top housing gaterons or some JWK linears.

Kailh sockets are known to break after a few 100 insertions Wobble even with pcb mount switches Inability to use proper mounting systems such as top mount without standoffs Fixed Layouts Limited Case Options

What's your budget

Why tho

Leopold FC750r or FC900r with silent reds

Not all custom keyboards are 10K OTD CLs expensive you can build decent ones for less than 150.

P sure you can use a Dreammachines DM something software, check r/mousereview

that extra 1ms response time is more placebo than anything, get something that you're comfortable with, not something that is advertised as being the "fastest" response, most medium to high end gaming peripherals these days are good enough to a point where differences delay and performance are negligible.

Box switches are alright, but I don't like them much personally. Kailh speeds and pro switches are pretty mediocre and bland imo, nothing wrong with them but nothing great either. I would go for JWK switches if you want good value, they have great smoothness and tactility for just a very reasonable price