moriel5

Additionally, since you need the proper hardware for it, Intel's new AX200 M.2 Wireless cards should be reviewed, as I had already posted on the "What should I review next?" thread.
 
This would also be a good opportunity to showcase Fenvi's (there are other companies, but Fenvi is also an official distributor of Intel cards) FV102 M.2 to PCIe WiFi adapter (I had also posted this on the aforementioned thread).
 
We really need a follow up thread on WiFi 6, which actually puts strain on the router via as many clients as possible.

Sorry I had disappeared, I haven't had much time lately, and soon I wont be at home most of the time, so I'll be gone most of the time as well.
@Donut417 has explained the concept, so I don't have anything to add to their words.
@Potato Pc Tryhard , I hope that everything will work out for you.
 
By the way, to anyone interested, the fenvi FV-102 is a PCIe 1.1 M.2 to PCIe adapter (probably most, if not all, are like that), so it's no longer enough for WiFi 6/Wireless-AX with the Intel AX200(PCIe 1.1 supports up to 2Gbt/s, the AX200 supports up to 2.4Gbt/s on 5Ghz on WiFi 6/Wireless-AX).

I'm not sure exactly what happened, but it was like my Boot SSD, CPU, and Motherboad all possibly died at the same time

However, my CPU and Mobo have been RMA'd and I replaced the Boot SSD, and the issue seems to be resolved now

Actually, AliExpress is more of a marketplace, so you cannot say anything about the product quality, since it depends on the sellers.
I buy Intel products (yes, official, and brand new) on AliExpress (I just bought Intel's new AX200 M.2 card from Fenvi, an official reseller, on AliExpress), and they are the precisely the same as if you had bought them in the US, even from Intel themselves.
 
In this case, I had mentioned Lenovo's products, since these were mice that are meant to professional work (I agree, calling specific mice "professional" is odd, but these are just higher quality than the ordinary mice you'll find at your local hardware store).

Most people will be happy with 15-16", I prefer 16.5-18.5".

Yeah, the design on all business laptops has sadly shifted towards the awful trends set by the likes of Apple and Razer.

Though I am disappointed with every Dell Vostro 3000 post-3568.
The 3578 was originally supposed to have an M.2 slot for an SSD (I was tracking the 3578 ever since it started appearing on the website), and the newer ones no longer have user-serviceable batteries (one of them loses out on an ODD, but that is less of an issue).
 
If the 3578 will be substantially cheaper, as in closer to it's real worth, that would take some of my bitterness about it away.

Depends on what you do. As some that typically wants to have multiple programs open next to each other, I think 15" is still pretty small. But it's a laptop, so you naturally sit closer to it anyways.
 
Best would be to walk into some store and open up some programs in the display units and see how it looks to you personally.
 
It's worth considering a 13" is quite a bit easier to take with you as well, which might be worth something. It also gives you more space in a college desk.

What do you need the laptop for?
Since you may find a better deal by going with a cheaper laptop (such as Dell's Vostro 3000 series), or if you want something more powerful, one of the choices made by @5x5.

Actually, AliExpress is more of a marketplace, so you cannot say anything about the product quality, since it depends on the sellers.
I buy Intel products (yes, official, and brand new) on AliExpress (I just bought Intel's new AX200 M.2 card from Fenvi, an official reseller, on AliExpress), and they are the precisely the same as if you had bought them in the US, even from Intel themselves.
 
In this case, I had mentioned Lenovo's products, since these were mice that are meant to professional work (I agree, calling specific mice "professional" is odd, but these are just higher quality than the ordinary mice you'll find at your local hardware store).

Just for clarity's sake, MyDigitalLife doesn't host the ISOs, only links to them, so you wont be downloading from the forum itself.
As for hashes, if I'm not mistaken, there is a sort of library (open-source, by the way) dedicated to hashes of everything possible from the Microsoft servers (no download links, only hashes), though I forget it's name.

From what I have seen when preparing clients computers, with licenses from my country's Department of Education (schools here are eligible for discounts), you can try installing Office 2016 ProPlus (you can get the installer from Microsoft's servers via the AdGuard TechBench site (a spiritual successor to Microsoft TechBench) and using your license with the installer.
Or better yet, on the MyDigitalLife there are instructions for installing the UWP packages (the apps themselves are not UWP), and activating them is the same as using the standard Office 2016 ProPlus installation.
 
I recommend the UWP route (only possible on Windows 10), since you have more control over what is installed (the standard installation puts placeholders for what you chose not to install, thus Windows Update installs updates for things that are not installed), without sacrificing the ability to install the apps that you did not initially install, and at the same time, taking up less space on the hard drive (and no unnecessary services running in the background), updates arrive more quickly (via the Microsoft Store), without requiring reboots (some MS Office updates via Windows Update require reboots), and uninstallations are quicker and easier as well.

The card built into the motherboard is Realtek & I got the latest driver from the ASUS website. The new card I bought is a Qualcomm. 

Lenovo IdeaPad 300-15 with i5-6200U, 8GB DDR3L-1600, 1TB 5400RPM SATA3 HDD (though I wish I would have had the comparable Dell Vostro 3568, which is much higher quality at a cheaper price (and I would have had a Radeon M420 and 8GB of DDR4-2400 to boot).
 
MSI H61M-P31/W8 with i3-3220, 4GB DDR3-1333, 80GB 7200RPM SATA2 HDD (plus a lot more hard drives, should be on my profile, though my fake Radeon HD7570 (in reality an HD6770) is dying), until i repair my Intel DH55HC (I still need PCI), with an i3-540, and will be again with 6GB of DDR3-1333 (same hard drive, I use Linux, so no need for an OS reinstall after each hardware change).
Antec P9.
 
Also a Nexus 4 16GB running CrDroid on Android 7.1.2 (no time to upgrade, plus there are platform independent bugs with newer ROMs (I have literally seen them on every single device I had tested this on, even brand new ones on stock ROMs) which prevent me from utilizing things such as alternative WebView providers). I intend to upgrade to an LG G3 32GB when I have the time, and I hope to see the day that my devices run PostMarketOS.

The Sennheiser HD 471 is pretty awesome, we bought for my sister (for video editing) and for a friend (music editing), and it clearly defeats most things (if not all) in the budget sector. From reading, the HD 461 may also be good.
The Sennheiser HD 200 Pro appears to be based upon a mixture of the HD 461 and HD 471, so it probably is also good.
 
Aside from those, I have not much experience in the audiophile market, since my ears cannot tell the difference that much (though I have not had the chance to properly test that, lacking the budget to buy myself anything beyond the cheapest (or at times, anything at all).
It is funny, considering I have relative musical hearing (I literally pick out melodies from pretty much any sounds I hear), and play the piano.
 
I am currently using a ~1-2$ pair of apple earphone clones from china (I simply find the design more comfortable in my ears), and it works great for me (after gluing some parts to prevent them from breaking).
 
Edit: After reading a bit, it appears that the HD 461's tuning is better suited for things such as trance music (the horror, in my opinion), while the HD 471 is more suited for classical music (perfect for me). The HD 200 Pro's tuning is based off the HD 471's tuning, since it is poised at professional tasks such as audio monitoring (the audio is more neutral, to sound more lifelike, like the HD 471).

That is correct.

The firmware settings will return to their default state, and you will have to reconfigure them.
Yes, to prevent any possible damage, it is best to wait for the computer to be completely off again before attempting to turn it on.
 
I hope everything will work out well.

Correct.
The computer has to be off for step 3, otherwise you can't flash anything.
As for step 4, just to be on the safe side, I would make sure that the computer has turned itself off as well before finishing.

It's probably already FAT32, but you can format it just in case.
The capacity does not matter, you are flashing an 8MB file.

Sorry it took so long, I had to do some other things.
You need to rename the CAP to "P9X79.CAP", and place it at the root of your flash drive.
Then connect the flash drive to the USB port that is meant especially for FlashBack, and hold the FlashBack button for 3 seconds, until the button lights up.
Wait until everything is over (the computer should turn off on it's own), and only then turn it on (at this point you can take out the flash drive).
 
Make sure that your flash drive does not have the U3 software (if it is an old Sandisk flash drive).

Yes, however that is done automatically when flashing from FlashBack.
And you will be putting the firmware image on the flashdrive.
I'll check the specifics right now.

I just searched for the model while speaking with you, it took me some time to do so.
As for flashing, you will need to do so via Asus's FlashBack method, which is their recovery flashing.
There are instructions there how to do so, if it's hard for you to follow, I'll check it and summarize it for you.

I just found a thread for you on Win-Raid, with a modded firmware for your motherboard:
https://www.win-raid.com/t4669f16-Request-Asus-P-x-BIOS-with-NVMe-support.html

Gladly, however since I had not done so myself, I'd rather first experiment (at least the modding and flashing part, I have no NVME drives, nor do I have the budget for one) on my own boards, since I know how, and have the necessary tools, to repair my boards in case of a failed flash.

Ah, well there is a manual there for modding your firmware yourself, though you should always be careful with that (I haven't done anything of the sort yet, since Intel firmwares are even more complicated to work with, but I do intend on doing this for my MSI motherboard when I have the time, as well as my sister's Gigabyte board afterwards).