moriel5

My whole bedroom is my setup, "A research lab in the making, with next to zero budget". ~80% of the contents are 2nd hand, with ~95% of the tech being 2nd or 3rd hand (including dumpster diving). As for the desktop, I intend to replace my dying AsRock H97M with a 2nd hand Asus H97/Z97 Pro Gamer (I need the I/O, the rest depends on the budget) from AliExpress (unless I find a cheaper source) next month (if I will have the budget), the overheating (I overcame this with new paste, and severe throttling) Sapphire HD6950 with a 2nd hand Sapphire HD7700 GHz Edition from a friend's repair shop (or whatever I am able to get for OpenCL, once I have the budget) whenever I'll be able to afford it (not expensive, but next to no budget, and not having much success in finding a source of income), and whenever I'll have the funds for it, a 5th Gen Intel Core i5 (since Haswell is being deprecated in a broken fashion (regarding OpenCL) from Intel's support). My Lenovo IdeaPad 300-15ISK is also gutted, until the AliExpress who sold me the new motherboard manages to get it's heatsink to me (When the battery connector broke, I used the opportunity to upgrade to a dGPU motherboard, and the seller forgot the heatsink at first). Other than that, no SSD here, for lack of funds, with the largest drives being my old 1TB 5400RPM HDD that came with the laptop, and a 1TB Barracuda Pro (with a copper heatsink plate to fill up the empty space, of course , this drive really heats up inside a laptop, easily getting to 45-50°C without one, and even then, power savings need to be enabled). There are 12 HDDs. 10 of which are 3.5", inside the case (Antec P9, with one of the covers, usually both, removed for easy access), which officially can hold up to 8 3.5" HDDs and 2 2.5" HDDs. The Dell monitor is currently the main one, with the (partially fixed, unable to source parts to fully fix) LG monitor serving as a temporary second, until I fix a few 1200p and 1080p Samsung monitors. And no, that is not an Apple Watch (for some reason I have been asked this a few times), that is a (1st hand) PineTime, from the earlier production cycles that still came with a locked and closed-source bootloader from the factory (hence the tape, which is holding it very nicely). I do need the budget to replace all of my outlets with universal outlets, and hook up a 6-socket splitter (again, universal) with a 5-meter cable (technically, I need slightly over 4.5M), which is impossible in my country (only up to 3M is being manufactured for our country), so will have to go for one from AliExpress with a UK plug (way safer than what we use here, in any case), which will allow me to switch the location of the desktop PC to the other edge of the desk(s) (which will also greatly improve WiFi reception (old house, with 0 RJ-45 ports in the thick (some of which are concrete) walls, I am planning to change that however, with my Brocade switch playing a part in that)). I also intend to move my shelves to the wall above the other side of the desk(s), and bolt on protectors to prevent my books from falling over the edges. Additionally, I am going to need to replace the wardrobe with a custom built one (the room is shaped like a right-angle trapezoid), and custom drawers for the center corner of the desk(s) (hopefully also build a bed that folds onto the wall, to maximize space when working on projects that require the center of the (rather small) room. The LG HomBot (obtained via dumpster diving) is in need of a new battery, as well as investigation into why it's brushes get stuck at times. Not shown, is my Brocade FastIron FCX648S-HPOE which I bought last year, and which I am using to learn towards my CCNA and CCNP exams, as well as tools and parts inside the Ikea Alex drawers (also 2nd hand, as is the table(s), which I am still trying to get the rest of the parts for, so that I could properly set it up). Some items are not mine, but rather are items which are waiting to be repaired by me before being returned to their respective owners (family members and friends, I do not want to do payed work for my family and close friends). I dare you Linus and Co. to roast not just this setup, but the whole endeavor, which has been ongoing for several years due to limited funds and me being reluctant to rely on others for monetary (especially pricey) matters. By the way, these pictures were taken with a 2nd hand Razer Phone 2 (one of the last relatively normal phones that have been manufactured in the last few years, add a 3.5mm jack and an IR blaster, and the design consideration of newer phones become pure garbage) that I had bought a few months back, that strangely enough, I am having issues getting anything other than the stock ROM to boot.

If this is still relevant, I cannot recommend enough the Dell Inspiron (I know, I'm still waiting for Dell to release a Vostro counterpart) 5585 (2-in-1 if possible) (try to get it at a discount, though). CPU (technically APU): Ryzen 3rd gen (Ryzen 5 3500U recommended (almost as good as an i7-10510U, with better graphics performance), however the Ryzen 3 3200U is also good, since it is almost as good as an i5-7200U (with better graphics performance) after taking into account AMD's lower cooling requirements and Intel's major performance drop due to the security issues) GPU: iGPU (+optional Radeon 630) RAM: 8+GB nonsoldered RAM (either get more than 8, or upgrade it it with another 4+GB stick, Radeon iGPUs take 2GB of RAM to themeselves) Storage: 2.5" SATA + M.2 NVME/SATA (nonsoldered) Networking: 1Gbt/s Realtek LAN (yeah... next to everything has these), Qualcomm QCA9377 (433Mbt/s on Wireless AC) (can be replaced by the user with an Intel AX200 for WiFi 6 on the cheap) Display: Matte 1080p IPS (220nits) touch (touch panel only on 2-in-one model) Battery: 3-cell polymer (42 WHr) non-hotswappable battery (should provide around 8 hours of battery life) Audio: Realtek (highly recommended to use unofficial UAD Realtek drivers on all Dell PCs, due to MaxXAudio tuning which causes degradation to the speakers and (slightly) harms system performance and battery life) SD Card reader: I forget, however I think that it utilizes a Realtek chip over USB3 Touchpad: Elan (obviously utilizing Microsoft's Precision Drivers) Webcam: 720p Keyboard: Optional backlit keyboard Biometrics: Optional Fingerprint Reader in power button I/O: 1xEthernet (RJ45) port, 1xUSB-C with USB-PD (you can charge this laptop via USB-C) and DP (you can connect a DisplayPort-equipped monitor via USB-C), 2xUSB-A USB3, 1xUSB-A USB2, 1xaudio port, 1xHDMI1.4b (no VGA, unfortunately), 1xSDXC slot, 1xcharging input, 1xNoble Security Cable port.

Sorry I had disappeared for so long, I wasn't at home until slightly before my country's government initiated it's lockdown, and haven't really had the time to log in. I have to admit, I could not find anything that could help you, except for the options you had outlined.

This is weird. Perhaps the RAM is to blame (not necessarily bad)? Ryzen 3000 is the first Ryzen generation where you can throw just any random RAM stick without worry, after all.

I'm sorry for not being online for so long, I haven't had the time to log in. There is a guide on MyDigitalLife, thought it basically boils down to this: 1. Manually download the .appxbundle files via AdGuard's Store downloader website (here) (it simulates accessing it from the Microsoft Store, so the links created are the same) using the FamilyID (0e639757-dc24-4e5b-9b33-226f71dcd952). Note: You may need to rename the file to include a .appx or .appxbundle extension (either will do), since the file is supposed to be streamed to the Store, where it knows what to do without caring for the extension). 2. Manually install the files with Microsoft's App Installer (just open the files, they will be automatically recognized). 3. When connected to the internet (for some odd reason UWP apps fail to launch until you launch them at least once while connected to the internet), just log into your Microsoft account (if the license is associated with it, like in the education and some businesses) or select to use your license key (if not associated with any Microsoft accounts) and activate the Office Suite that way (you may need to do this multiple times, once for each app, though for me it has worked by only doing this once).

That looks pretty good, except for the Realtek NIC, which is not surprising, given that 99% of the motherboards utilize Realtek NICs, since that is the cheapest option. I'm pretty confident that you could leave things be on the computer, since you cannot replace the NIC (you could buy a Gigabit PCIe NIC, however those are prohibitively expensive for no reason, unless it is Realtek, in which case you get pretty much the same quality whether it is a ~5$ PCIe NIC or a ~90$ PCIe NIC, and it will be the same as the onboard NIC). One more word about Realtek networking driver flaws: Unlike other manufacturers' NICs, Realtek's NICs do not utilize hardware processing, only software processing, which is why the network speed will be heavily dependent on the system's overall performance (which is why Realtek performs alright on high end devices (while taking away a bit of the system's performance), but much worse on low-end devices (and for laptops, cause a small, but additional battery drain).

Thanks. In that case, I really need to read up more, since so far I have benefited from jumbo frames (admittedly, only up to ~4.5KB), however I only use it locally, and I don't utilize Windows for this either, however it could be placebo.

That certainly makes sense, and also explains how I saw the opposite in my usage. It depends on what kind of usage it is.

I will need to read upon the matter before I can say yay or nay to your comment, however from my experience, I have yet to see fragmentation as a result of jumbo frames, rather than because lack of jumbo frames.

From personal experience, that is not true. Windows wont recognize the partition, however it will certainly recognize the physical device, and as such should appear inside Disk Management (with an "unknown" or "unformatted" partition or partitions).

Yeah, that's a valid point. Realtek's networking products are pretty bad due to incompetent drivers (this I have heard from people working on the Linux Realtek drivers, I was a beta tester for a short period of the drivers for the RTL8211AE (WiFi-AC)). Other than that, while jumbo frames do make more efficient usage of the network, and as such improve networking speed, it won't help speed up the Internet speed, since to my knowledge, no ISP makes use of jumbo frames for non-corporate clients, and even then, only a small percentage actually use it, such as universities, some mega-corporations, and some governmental uses. There should be no need to touch buffers either way.

That may be the case, but lets first make sure. To bring an example, I know that our distance from the CO limits our maximum speed (had we payed for 100Mbt/s) to ~60-65Mbt/s, however we've had issues in the past year, that were not shared by our neighbors, sometimes limiting our speed to ~800Kbt/s (that's ~100KB/s), which after checking things (literally checking every single point on the line, except for the networking box itself), I think is due to something going haywire in our networking box (I was supposed to call someone today, but was unable to do so on time, so hopefully tomorrow).

In the Store's settings you have an option to enable auto-updates, an option that is enabled by default. And I find it hard to believe that you only have 2 store apps installed, that only possible on the LTSC edition, since it doesn't come with any store apps at all (you install the store along with the most basic dependencies, unofficially).

Ah. Well both are flagships, just one is a newer generation than the other.

Hmm... Perhaps Windows Update in the background? Or perhaps the Microsoft Store is updating apps in the background?