Revamp

I am not too sure, I just remember when we went to lowes, they had some products marketed as matte finishes that the sales person said had very similar properties as far as protection and feel. My buddy wanted gloss specifically to help reflect the LEDs onto the wall, but that also causes glare into your eyes in return unless you make it in such a way to isolate the reflection. However I was wearing my glasses, so that could have made it worse than it really was. With that said, it definitely wasn't "OMG this is so bad I can't even use it" it was more subtle, but it was there and would likely only start to bother me during long sessions at the desk.

I will mentioned, if you have LEDs or anything nearby though, a few coats of varnish can definitely cause some glare. We also saw some matte finishes I personally would have opted with to protect the wood to prevent the glare from the LEDs behind his monitor, and the monitor itself.

You apparently just joined in the conversation and didn't take the time to read the previous posts. I will go ahead and update you on the context we were talking in. He was comparing using a cell phone and taking multiple pictures and either stitching them, or overlaying the images to getting a single image comparable to that in which a DSLR can do in a single shot. For example I mentioned flash, so when taking a photo during dusk with a dslr, I can slow the shutter speed to properly expose the background, then flash the subject and get an evenly exposed image in 1 shot. His comparison (in my words) was essentially saying take a picture of the background and the subject separately, Edit the background in lightroom to get it exposed properly, then take the subject and overlay them on the edited background, etc. Please tell me how you disagree with using a DSLR to capture the image properly the first time being a less professional oriented workflow compared to using a cell phone and taking 2, 3 or even 4 images on a cell phone, editing them separately, then cropping different aspects of each photo to layer them on top of one another. This was his post in regards to using a cell phone to take multiple shots both in and out of focus on a cell phone to photoshop them together to simulate the subject isolation bokeh effect of a DSLR. Please do elaborate on how using a DSLR and taking a single shot with proper subject focus being a less professional workflow than using a cell phone to layer 2-3 images to simulate the same shot artificially.

You can always paint it to color, then apply a layer or 2 of varnish. my buddy stained his wood top on his desk to make the grain pop just like you mentioned, then applied varnish to fill in the small crevices and now if you close your eyes, it nearly feels like glass. Super smooth, and his PC never pulled it up or chipped it.

Id agree with this completely. I haven't playing DS1 or 2, but caught DS3 for I think like 65% off during the winter sale and jumped on it. I died to the tutorial boss literally probably 50 times. After I got a little further into it and realized the combat style was different that many other games I've played, it's gotten a lot easier. It is a game where at times you have to be defensive and evasive (dodge and roll), where I have always been the type to make glass cannon 100% offense builds. It took me a while to adapt, but after I did, it's gotten much easier and more enjoyable TBH.

This, while it may be the same cost, they skimp in certain areas usually. Also another thing I have seen a lot with prebuilts (primarily retail, not online where you somewhat pick your parts) is that they are usually pretty bottlenecked. For instance, I saw in microcenter last time I went 2 very opposite PCs. One was a like $5,000 hardline watercooled monster with a 1080ti, but only a single small SSD (yes you can add your own), and a IIRC 6th gen i3 cpu....custom loop and 1080ti with a i3... Then the other had a very high end cpu, but IIRC 8gb ram and a very very low end GPU. Atleast with self built on a $5,000 machine, I could downgrade that 1080ti to a normal 1080 or 1070 and add a bit more ram and better cpu etc

If smoke came out after a weird noise, I would check all the parts for a blown capacitor or other indication of burning

Looks TREMENDOUSLY better already @HunterScott! Yeah I agree as far as working on the underside too early. What I did was use an extension cord, unplug cables 1 by 1 and plug them into the extension cord and hold/tape it to where I roughly thought I would route it then measured from the extension cord female, to where I would be plugging it in, add about a foot or so for safety and write it down. Once I got through all my cables, I ordered the extensions and kept my notes so I knew which extension was for what. Also another trick I used in the past for small accessory cables since you mentioned wrapping them up to keep them out of the way is cheap and effective. Buy 2x command strip hook brackets (offbrand at dollar stores you get 5-10 depending on size for 1$). You would face 2 hooks away from each other and can wrap cables around them. Then buy those little silicone cable holders (also can find 5-10 packs for 1$) and secure the end. The cable holder im talking about are those round rubbery ones with a slit in the middle. Usually have adhesive on the back to secure them to a desk/nightstand, generally marketed for cell phone chargers to keep it from falling off your desk.

If you use it a lot for phone repair (standard extension) you could mount it in the front of the desk for ease of access. could even mount it facing you for ease of access to prevent crawling on the floor. If you mount it sideways, I would definitely consider a like 2x1 or 2x2 fur/trim strip to mount behind it (like 3$ for 8ft at lumber stores). That way when you push a cable into it, you don't break it from it's mount and gives some rigidity to it.

It's going to be tedious, but I would start by pulling everything out and starting fresh. You can make the PC work from either side. If you have everything plugged into the UPS what I did was order a bunch of extensions of different lengths that are 3 prong male to 3 prong female. Depending on each cable that was going to the UPS or surge protector and the slack needed to properly tie it into my cable management, I used 1ft, 3ft, and 4ft most commonly (I measured before ordering). I purchased these off amazon in multi packs since I have several cables as well and paid $1-$3 a cable depending on length. For peripherals, you can do the same with high speed USB3.0 extensions. Once I got all my extensions in, Then I started hiding everything properly. For your monitors, since they are on arms, you can zip tie the cables to the monitor arm and run it down to where it mounts to the desk/wall. If wall mounted, use a small cable track to hide it. If you do need that extension cord on the left side, I would replace it with a quality surge protector before considering plugging my PC into it. You can also do like I did in the past, and use the wall mounting slots on the back if it has them and put 2 short screws under the desk to mount it to. Another method is I believe the 3M red double sided tape as it's supposed to have incredible holding properties without leaving behind adhesive residue or pulling off paint and such. Final method of adhering an extension cord/surge protector would be to buy those square zip tie anchors I spoke about and put a couple under the desk and zip tie the extension/surge block.

Not too sure about you, but my "daily usage" consists of roughly 40% photo editing, 55% gaming, and 5% of other tasks like quick web dev work and such.

@HunterScott My suggestion is this. Velcro zip ties as mentioned, j runners, and cable tracks. Mouse, keyboard, and orbweaver gamepad Monitors and anything where the cables go to the wall. Desk management Lastly you can always buy a 20 pack of those square zip tie anchors and buy bulk zip ties.

Sending out an immediate search & rescue team to find and recover @bsodmike safely. Will they find Mike safely? Stay tuned and find out on the next episode...

Recently Browsing 10 members Revamp, Dissitesuxba11s, UniBomber, Urs Forrer, Hezemans, ATFink, gtrfdews, Thatdudeoverthere, ModuleLFS, samcool55 All waiting to figure out the point of this thread...

1 kind of bugs me since it doesn't really follow the rule of thirds, but is a kind of cool scenery. 2. has no focal point and looks like you accidently snapped it. 3. is a decently laid out image. the ground follows the bottom third line, the sun is on a intersection of the rule of thirds and is placed well, although as mentioned, background is a little overexposed but not a whole lot you can do with that on a S7. Unless ofcourse you get into bracketing exposure and take 3 separate images and overlay them to get more color tones. Or atleast pull it into lightroom or something and bring what you can out, or photoshop an artificial skyline in there to correct it. Although in number 3 I would have tried to expose the skier more (or added exposure in LR/PS) and tried to position them to follow the rule of thirds. Overall not bad images, just a few minor adjustments.

Canon 77D here, usually rocking a 70-200mm / f2.8, 50mm / f1.4, or a borrowed 24-105mm / f4.0 All flash is Godox tt685 With the improvement in mirrorless systems over the last year or 2, I am highly considering selling everything and reinvesting in a mirrorless setup with a crop sensor. Quick picture I snapped of my queen with the 77D and the 70-200mm with 2 flash the other day. https://imgur.com/Dd8Wrem

Also during my email chain, they assured me that due to the higher binned chip being more efficient, it would be capable of achieving a lower undervolt at stock speeds. For instances lets so a 4.6ghz chip got a -0.120v undervolt, the 5.1ghz binned chip may be able to achieve -0.135v undervolt when left at its (example) 4.4ghz stock speed. Thus allowing it to run even cooler

For what your original question was, I had the same exact question as I was building in a extremely tight case (S4M) so I was curious if a CPU binned for a higher clock speed would run cooler than something binned lower when left at STOCK clock speeds. After a very informative email with one of silicon lottery's higher staff, I was assured that if 2 chips binned at lets say 5.1ghz and 4.6ghz are left at the stock 4.1ghz clock speed, the 5.1 will indeed run cooler due to the more efficient nature of the chip (a.k.a Silicon lottery [phrase, not company]) allowing it to be binned higher.

Whatever you do, DON'T use CyberGhost. Don't know if you were even considering it but I used it in the past and they advertised offshore VPN services as well as not selling user information nor being subject to US court ordered subpoenas for user information (that the right term lol?). I don't know if they changed their claims since I've used it, but after 2 notices from my ISP, and a like $500 fine in order to get my internet turned back on, I determined that was definitely a lie.

I as well dropped 15degree delidding my 8700k. If your temps are now higher, sounds like you have a micro gap in the IHS like you said. However I wouldn't necessarily steer away from relidding with a sealant. Mine is resealed and still dropped 15c temp wise. I would, like Glen mentioned, make sure the cooler has proper paste applied and making good contact. Could also try another paste on the inside like a liquid metal to create a better bond between the two surfaces.

Also besides my aforementioned registering for in-person classes another great way to learn is workshops. Many people don't really know about workshops because they aren't publicly advertised, it's usually word of mouth. Basically search FB for modeling pages specifically as this is where you'll mostly see workshops because they are looking for models. What happens is there will be anywhere from 3-10 photographers, and I've seen anywhere from 2-20 models show up. Generally it's 5-6 models and 4-5 photogs thoughs. typically there is usually a $1-$50 photog fee but it truly is a great learning experience if you go in with that mindset. You are taking pictures with photographers who will likely be much better than you. You will see how they get the right angle, bounce ideas off them, show them what you have and get pointers, etc. Luckily my girlfriend models so my tog fee is usually waived for her participating. EDIT: Photog fees are typically only a factor if the host of the event is renting studio space of has publicly available lighting setups so you're basically contributing to the studio rental, supplies for the shoot theme, and wear and tear on flash supplies. There are just as many paid workshops as their are free though. Typically free workshops are just in a park or somewhere public with a cool scenery/setting and there isn't really a "Creative Theme" for the models to dress for. Still a great experience. A lot of times you meet models that are willing to do TFP shoots (time for print; aka their time is paid for by copies of your final image). So then you get to meet models you can call up and set up dates for shoots to test new lighting, poses, shooting style, etc firsthand. Oh also for consistant photoshop and lightroom, adobe has the photographer package for $10 a month for unlimited updates to LR/PS while you have the subscription. Really worth looking into if you're serious. My first camera was a Canon T2i with the 18-55 kit lens.... still use it to this day and it's like 8years old or so? Photos look just the same as my current primary Canon 77D with a 70-200mm / f2.8. Main difference, is I can crop more or blow the images up larger from the 77D. I GARAUNTEE I can do way more especially with flash with my T2I that is 8years old and a kit lens, than you can with a smartphone. Also keep in mind, getting a shot right right off the camera (with minor color correction) is 100x better and more professional than layering 2, 3, or even 4 images to get a simulated effect and then having to make your own flash contrast and such. I'd rather take one photo and spend 10 seconds applying a passport pro correction on it than spending 5-10mins photoshopping 4 images and 10 layers to get the same result.

Would definitely object Can't really work with creative lighting with a phone. Can't get a real depth of field with a phone (not talking about those 2 lens SIMULATED depth of field) Can't blow up an image to nearly the size as you can with a DSLR So much more you can do with a DSLR than a phone.

This isn't a direct answer to your question in regards to videos, but I would HIGHLY recommend taking in-person classes. For example, shutterfest is coming up in April and is 2 full days for $99. While it is indeed $99, it is VERY beneficial for photographers. There is photoshop/lightroom based classes as well. With shutterfest you will learn a lot more than just watching videos. You will take shots, have masters in the art of photography give you pointers related directly to your style, etc.

Haha! I meaannnnn it's not really meant for that, but hey anything is possible. I am more of a hook my UPS up to my solar panel power bank type guy She will run for days

While I do appreciate your input, I have a job as a commercial loan banker. I also work part time as a freelance photographer and do quite well. My thing is (this may be weird) but I have a deal where I try to only invest money that I earned from that hobby. For instance this is how my jobs/hobbies are laid out. My primary job - paycheck goes toward bills, vehicle, child, and vacation My photography - any income from that goes into new gear like flash and lenses Computers/gaming - I started with a very cheap like 500$ rig and made money from world of warcraft, runescape, CS:GO skins etc and those funds go back into my PC hobby. I also make a little side cash being a web dev for gaming communities (search elite zerks and you will find a runescape community forum I maintain) and that money goes back into PCs as well. Now I am opening my eyes to mining but I'm not going to invest my "get a job" paychecks into such a volatile hobby. I would rather earn the cash using my PC to reinvest into PCs.