Revamp

1 minute ago, ZM Fong said:

The closest one I can find is Asus UX430UA. Also 13 inch options like Lenovo Ideapad 720s 13 (Intel KBL-R not AMD Ryzen mobile APU), Asus UX330UA (FHD) and Asus UX331UN (with 8W MX150). All with 300+nits display, should be okay for outdoor use if it's not directly facing the sun. XPS 13 has a bright display but out of your budget unless you can find a good deal or go refurbished.

 

*Search results from Amazon

Thanks I'll definitely dive into these models and see what I can find. 

14 minutes ago, ZM Fong said:

You need SSD and the battery life. Trust me, they are important. Windows 10 runs very laggy with HDD. And I've experienced the pain searching for a power outlet for my laptop.

 

Just on more question: Can you accept 13 inch devices?

 

BTW I'm busy sometimes too

I think I could make due with a 13 but would heavily prefer 14. It's the ideal compromise between weight and portability VS screen real estate and such. 

It would be an added perk if it was a sub 65wh device that the finsix dart charger worked with. 

1 hour ago, ZM Fong said:

Flex 4 never come with 7700HQ. I think it's 7500U which is a slow chip.

 

Where are you from? Besides 14 inch, small, light weight, good display for outdoor use, do you have any other requirements?

Sorry for the delayed reply. Got in trouble by tech right after posting for using non verified websites on a work PC lmao. 

You are likely correct on the 7500u I don't actually have it on hand to check so I was looking up i7 seeing which looked familiar. 

As for other requirements just a decent battery life. Ssd would be handy, but not required as it's just for general web dev work on the road, and used to display raw images to models as I shoot them. 

To start, I love the size, weight, and overall dimensions of the laptop, I just have a few issues with it.

I have had it for around 6-7 months and noticed a couple things that bother me based on the purpose I purchased it for. The screen doesn't quite get bright enough and suffers for HEAVY glare in the car (so much so that I can't see the screen at all), even with non direct sunlight and putting my backpack in the window to block sun. The touchpad, despite primarily using a wireless mouse and using the actual touchpad very little, has double click issues very bad. About every other click will double click. Ideally I would also like just a LITTLE more battery life.

I originally purchased the i7 version, I believe 7700hq? I think I could get by with the i5 since I don't use it for photoediting as much as originally planned and generally just use it to preview the shots for models therefore don't need super fast desktop speeds.

Any recommendation for sub $1,000 laptop, 14", small and lightweight, with good screen quality for outdoor use?

Edit: I should mention I don't really need a dGPU as I have been using the onboard intel graphics and they have handled what I needed so far.

I picked up the sigma 70-200 for $500 and love it for portrait style work. For studio work or something I want more of the background, the 24-105/f4 is kind of a solid go to.

With landscapes and wildlife, I would choose the 24-105 over the 24-70/2.8. Simply because in landscape, you generally don't want the bokeh effect, so if you're shooting when its dark enough to need 2.8 aperature, it's likely not going to be the crisp image you want anyways.

If you can pick up used id say grab the 70-200 which will cover a lot of closer range wildlife as well as portrait work, and the 24-105 which will cover more landscape, as well as some close range wildlife/portrait as well. With those 2 lens alone, you have a lot of possibilities with use. Now ofcourse neither are super telephoto lens so you're not capturing a hummingbird from across a field, but for the general use these should cover you.

I also shoot the 77D.

9 minutes ago, Kriss ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) said:

Id consider switching to another carrier then, if i were you.

Please read OP lol. As mentioned in the original post that I currently use Verizon but am considering switching.

Just not many good options around me.

3 minutes ago, Kriss ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) said:

Get the OnePlus 6

Wait for reviews though.

reviews from every OnePlus shows it doesn't worth with Verizon. I doubt there will be much change with the 6

4 minutes ago, Being Delirious said:

Pretty good, depends on what your doing tho. You get about 6-7 hours battery life watch movies or youtube videos. In general my phone last the whole day without touching it.

That's close to what im getting with my Pixel1, however those all day trips to the mountain bike park, I find myself going to the car and sitting there for an hour to let my phone charge. I could get a portable charger I know but just wanted something a little better. I don't play pokemon go anymore, but games like that which use a lot of battery, I found I could only get about 1-2hour before needing a charge, and even when using a portable charger my phone would deplete faster than it would charge. Just trying to avoid these issues.

1 minute ago, Being Delirious said:

I noticed a much bigger different in terms of speed and performance. At launch there were a lot of bugs. Now they have been settled. 

how's the battery life on the 2 compared to original? I highly considered doing the trade your pixel 1 for a discount on pixel 2 + google home deal but ended up waiting.

8 minutes ago, Being Delirious said:

Pixel 2 XL

Not a fan of the XL phones just because I have smaller hands and if I'm manipulating my phone with gloves on the bike and such, its a lot easier to manage with the smaller-ish phones. Is the regular pixel 2 a notable upgrade over the pixel 1?

7 minutes ago, Hip said:

-snip-

Looks like it does in fact not work with Verizon unfortunately  According to this article at PhoneArena

7 minutes ago, JoeyDM said:

Honestly? If your budget is $1000 get an iPhone X. Idk about you, but my Pixel (and Android in general over my last 4 phones) has been pissing me off.

Should have clarified I am strictly looking for Android. I have had no issues with Android, and personally hate Iphones. I also have no other apple products and personally don't like iTunes and such and don't want to have to manage one more account as-is.

Just now, huilun02 said:

Do you need 3.5mm jack or any specific app?

If you willing to wait, the Xiaomi Mi MAX 3

Else get the OP5T. 3300mAh battery with SD835 powering a 1080p oled screen.

The combination of battery, chipset power efficiency and less work required to power a 1080p oled screen, means it will endure for significantly longer.

OP5T does not work with Verizon

As for specifics, I would highly prefer a 3.5mm jack as I use headphones daily for work.

1 minute ago, Hip said:

I'd rather choose something like the Xiaomi Mi6 instead. Or a Oneplus 5T. It's far more cheaper and has a great battery.

 

Could be wrong, but when I looked into the OnePlus in the past, I thought it didn't get the Verizon LTE bands?

Hey there guys, I am in needing of some suggestions for a new phone. I currently have the Google Pixel and do like it, just getting a little bored and wanting something with better battery life.

I have been considering the S9 but am just stumped on what I want to get. I currently use Verizon but am considering switching to another carrier. I am looking for something thin and light, but with a solid battery life. I am typically using a lot of apps that drain the battery such as Strava for walks/mountain bike trails, trail GPS while biking, constantly using teamviewer while at work, and stuff like that. I also do like to play mobile games especially during downtimes at work. With my Pixel I am seeing about 6-8hours of usage on the battery life.

I have no problem rooting the phone and using ROMs that are easier on the battery. My budget is also around $1,000 or under preferably, or willing to do around $40/mo.

If you're wanting small and portable with no GPU, look into one of the smaller cases like the Sentry or NFC S4M. instead of putting the GPU, Gury makes a 3x 2.5" bracket that fits in the S4M, and he claims you can mount 4 of them (12 total 2.5" drives) in the S4M. I would personally go this route then run it brickless since you won't need much power.

Otherwise I would go Nuc as mentioned.

Here is a little visual comparison of size on the S4M.

Sexy card. That mobo looks great as well. Love the mechanical look of it. would be sick if it was a like bronze color and make a steampunk themed build with it.

Having too much as far as PSU capabilities won't hurt anything. Your PC will pull what it needs.

Quote

• Talking about piracy in general, broad details, is acceptable however the posting or discussing pirated/hacked/cracked or otherwise nefariously obtained content is not. This includes Windows content, games, hackintosh, etc. Also discussions regarding ways to avoid or block legitimately installed monitoring/tracking software or the like is also not allowed.

Not allowed.

Sounds to me like you basically just want an actual PC with a ton of HDD space...Grab you a 8700k, 1060 (don't know if you're gpu or cpu rendering, but if GPU you can upgrade), 32gb ram, and a nice ventilated case, and a bunch of HDD lol...

Then keep up with your current storage methods if you truly use 3 copies of backup.

If he is in college, he should be able to get the full office suite for $10. Microsoft runs a special with the majority of colleges and even a lot of businesses as well.

If he is highschool, some schools still offer this program.

Idk why people always get worked up over "mined on", if a gamer sells his gpu at $xxxx, the card is worth the same as a "mined on" card of the same model... In all honesty, a lot of times, miners take better care of their cards than everyday gamers lol.

Just now, IHirs said:

It doesnt appear to be thermal throttling, the cpu sits at about 60 and the gpu sits at 70

Have you recently updated all the drivers?

What's your temps like? Could be thermal throttling perhaps and the PC is cutting back in order to lower temps. But there could be an underlying issue as well and I could be wrong.

GPU is going to be quicker for the rendering aspect. This is why you'll see rendering PC with like SLI 1080ti, SLI titans, and other hefty configs.

I would look into a better PSU.

As far as tests, you can run stress tests and benchmarks to get a rough idea on load temps. Programs like Firestrike, Cinebench, Aida64 etc.

But in reality, if you haven't done any tweaking like overclocking/undervolting, and it runs everything fine without anything noticeable (like if your cpu spikes to 95% running MS office or something), then I would say it's fine.

On a fresh built PC though, it is ideal to watch temps. If your temps go abnormally high then you might have an issue with thermal paste, fans, etc.

I doubt there is a way to really repair the scratches if it's in the glass. However you can buy DIY repair kits for pretty cheap. From experience Iphone glass is pretty easy to replace. Only phones I really recommend having a shop do is anything with a curved screen, or a select few phones like Google Pixels since they have a small aluminum bezel that has to be replaced as well and kits don't generally include these.

5 minutes ago, Liquid_Z said:

Lol, you're so right! Now I feel dumb. See my APC has and LCD and there's a number that hovers around 120. I just always assumed that was time remaining if power were to go. NOPE! I unplugged the APC from the wall, pressed the menu button a few times and saw that I have about 17 mins remaining. Not to bad for having two computers and monitors plugged in. Thanks for clearing that up, haha.

Haha no problem, generally the number that fluctuates (since you mentioned hovers "around") is the wattage load the UPS is powering at that time.

Mine generally sits anywhere from like 180-360 depending on what I'm doing

For OP: if you do get a UPS, generally youll have battery powered outlets, and normal surge protected outlets. Typically you want your PC and 1 primary monitor (don't waste battery power on extra screens in the instance of a power outage), and if your modem/router is nearby and you do a lot of internet work, I keep those battery powered as well to give me time to save whatever I'm doing.

Things like speakers and extra peripherals are non-critical so don't waste battery juice on those.