Gibbo

Thanks for the reply! It actually sounds very similar to the issue you had with your machine, I will give your boot before peripherals method an attempt, hopefully it will help!

Hello everyone. Got a bit of a strange issue and I'm not really suew how to fix it. I built a new PC about 2 months ago and the problem started I'd say about a week after the build was completed. The best way of explaining it is that my PC doesn't always perform as expected when booting. When it does boot it works fine and performs as expected with its spec, it's just windows doesn't always start. What makes it even stranger is that it behaves differently based on the device I am using, I plug it into both my TV and a pair of monitors and each of them have different behvaiour. My TV will display the BIOS screen and then no signal once the BIOS has loaded, whereas my monitor shows nothing. But! With my monitors the PC seems to boot up(RGB syncs and if I startup with one monitor which stays blank and then plug in another one the screen will display and in display settings both monitors are detected) whereas my TV seems to not let it into Windows. And with my TV the problem rights itself with a PC reset, but I have to turn my monitors off and on again by the plug to get them to work again. It's not the biggest problem in the world as I can get them to work correctly, and like I said the PC works as expected when it works, but it's absolutely baffling me as to why it does it. It may not be the Graphics card, but it seems like the main candidate to me - it's a 3080 FE. So far I have: Reinstalled Graphics Drivers Re-seated the graphics card Updates BIOS Tried different cables Removed memory overclock And finally reinstalled windows (which seemed to work for just under a week before the behaviour came back). Any ideas would be massively appreciated.

Thank you for the very quick reply! To neutralise my air pressure what would you recommend? do you think removing the extra intake fan from the front would suffice, or should i do that and set one of the bottom fans up as exhaust. Thanks!

Hello everyone! I am currently coming to the final stages of getting all of the parts for my first full build, an I'm a little confused on what the best fan placement/practice is to keep my componenets as cool as possible. I imagine the best thing to do is to provide a brief overview of my setup: Ryzen 5900x 3080 Founders Edition Crosshair VIII Dark Hero Phanteks Ethoo 719 NZXT Kraken Z63 64 GB Trident Z RGB Sabrent Rocket SSD Corsair HX1000 PSU I've attatched a VERY primitive diagram of what I *think* the best set up is for my case, with everything in red being intake and everything in blue being exhaust. I do slightly worry that with my AIO being front mounted and my other intake fans being on the bottom of the case I wont get enough air through my intake, but to be honest im such an amatuer at this im thinking I might be talking nonsense. I haven't 100% decided on what fans I am getting yet, if im going to go full RGB with the Corsair LL or use Noctua fans. Any input/help would be much appreciated Thanks!

Haha, yeah I figured that would be the case! Really appreciate the suggestion, when we hopefully see retail prices back that would be a real good looking deal. I will definately keep it in mind!

Hello everyone! I'm looking to put together a Ryzen 5 series & 3080 build towards the end of January (Hopefully stock is a bit easier to come-by by then!) and was hoping to get some advice. This is the first time I have fully priced up a build for myself, and I think im falling into the trap of just looking at the most expensive stuff and presuming it's the best and absolutely smashing through my budget. My Use Case My PC will have two main uses: Hobbiest programming with game development and gaming. I have two different set-ups that the PC will find itself plugged into. The first is two 1440p monitors running at 144hz and the second will be an OLED TV running at 120hz. All of my gaming is done offline and normally consists of single player games running at 4k where possible. I do not do any streaming or video editing. I consistently have 5 USB devices plugged into the machine that would be essential for any model I choose. I have overclocked in the past, and I would probably make a couple of tweaks here and there in this system, but I am not an overclocking fiend and I will not be adjusting timings over and over again. Probably just a small CPU and RAM overclock to get a little boost. The Current System This is the current system that I have put together although I feel like there is money that can be saved in places that I am just not seeing, even when the CPU and GPU hopefully fall back to RRP. I would Ideally like to get this down to between £2000 - £2200. Im also aware I would likely have to buy some fans as the Phanteks case comes without them. PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/BVzvqp CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor (£571.51 @ Overclockers.co.uk) CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken Z73 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£244.86 @ More Computers) Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero ATX AM4 Motherboard (£375.99 @ AWD-IT) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (£190.72 @ Newegg UK) Storage: Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£159.88 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB STRIX GAMING OC Video Card (£913.67 @ Overclockers.co.uk) Case: Phanteks Enthoo 719 ATX Full Tower Case (£175.99 @ AWD-IT) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£182.95 @ Overclockers.co.uk) Total: £2815.57 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-12-07 23:25 GMT+0000 Of the things I am have picked I am largely attatched to the CPU cooler (the inner child in me loves the idea of putting GIFs on it, lol) the case and the GPU. I don't know if the CPU is overkill. I would also like to stay with ASUS products if possible. My current system has both ASUS and Gigabyte parts and the ASUS parts have been much more reliable, so I feel I can trust them. Any advice would truly be appreciated.

Wow! thank you for the really in depth response. Yeah I am really struggling to find anything "decent" at 43 inches, it's been really difficult. Unfortunately the unit already built in the room the TV will be going in literally only has enough froom for a 43 inch display. In that case do you think I'd actually be better off getting a cheaper 4K TV as the difference would be neglible (I've seen budget philips ambilight and LG models have really low input lag) and using them for things like sport and the odd netflix series(as well a PS4 games) and spending the rest of my money on a resonable 144hz 1440p monitor? That way I'm sort of getting the best of both worlds and can just move my PC across the room for when I want a more cinematic couch gaming experience. I should note that I am not a huge TV head, I know people get really caught up on deep blacks and what-not but honestly the LG UJ630V I had before it broke was fine for me, I'm just looking for a decent picture and the best gaming experience I can.

Hello everyone! I'm currently going through a bit of a buying a monitor and tv or just buying a TV dilemma after the previous TV I had decided to turn blue in multiple different places. I currently have been using my TV for both PC gaming and gaming on consoles. I've been reading a ton of reviews and it seems that the Samsung Q6R series is a really good gaming TV and they produce a 43inch system which is the size I need, plus it's available in the UK where I live. The issue I'm having is that a lot of the documentation seems to suggest that only the models over 49 inches have freesync 120hz support (which i believe is at 1440p) which is a really good middle ground for what I'm looking for. (instead of buying a lower range TV and a 1440p 144hz monitor). Although I've seen a website that suggests that it is available on the 43 inch model, and I cant find much information anywhere else - I didn't know if it may have been added in a firmware update or they have changed the panel. What do we think? would this be a good middle ground or should i just stick to a monitor for PC gaming and a lower range 4kTV for consoles. The website that shows freesync models: https://premiumbuilds.com/televisions/freesync-tv-list/ Thanks!

Hello everyone! Hoping for some good news here but googling was not positive. I have a pretty budget 4k TV (An LG uj630v) and over the past 24 hours it has started to develop a blue fog in the top left and bottom right corners of the screen. The TV still works but it everything that falls into that window has a blue tint. I left it off for about 6 hours and when I turned it back on it still persisted. Not sure where to go from here, is it dead? Thanks for the help!

Hello everyone - I am currently using a VERY makeshift system to play my games in a portable manner. Recently my Xbox controller died a death so I've been having to use my JoyCons when streaming my games to my linux laptop using the service Rainway. The problem I am having is that even though my JoyCons are recognised as an input device the 360 controller that is emulated by Rainway moves the buttons in the wrong order, meaning playing games that have any complicated button combos is near impossible. I was wondering if there was a way that I could emulate my Joycons as a 360 controller locally so that any inputs register correctly when used. I have seen Xboxdrv but it doesn't seem to work, I think its because my JoyCons are wireless! Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks! :)

Around about a year, it was provided by my ISP when it was fitted. I can sign into the router but I *believe* I can't updae the firmware as it is locked by my ISP. I've tried changing the band but the problem persists.

Headphones arrived today, I'm very happy with it. Thanks very much for the help!

Hello eveyone was wondering if you would be able to help me? I'm having this weird issue with my router whee it will make the 5G band unavailable about 5 minutes after starting a download. It stops every device from being able to access it for about 15 minutes then becomes available again. This then repeats until I reset the router; which will then see it work for a couple of days then go back to doing it again. Any ideas of how I could fix this? Thanks!

Oh yeah! can't believe I missed that one! I will get them now thank you for the help!

I did see those ones but was confused as they didn't mention the Ohms on them, I presumed for the price they were the 32ohms but couldn't find any others on Amazon.

Thank you thats a great help! So just to confirm if I buy these alongside this I should be pretty much sorted? I looked at the 250 ohm versions because I've seen a few places say the difference between then and 600 would be minimal at this level, is this right? I don't mind going for the 600 if they would be much better! Cheers again

Ok! so after a full day of research I have decided to go for the 990's - now I know you mentioned that if I get higher than 250 ohm's I will need an AMP & DAC, I realise these will likely put me over budget so I was hoping you would be able to ELI5 me how much difference this would make. Would the difference be easy to distinguish, or for a non-audiophile like me would i probably not be able to tell the difference anyway and the standard version would be enough for the money saved? Many thanks for the help everyone!

Unless im missing something it seems the 58x's are no longer for sale? shame it seems like they would have been pefect too! Edit: Are the 6XX's any better? I have noticed they are still available.

Thank you will check these out - do Massdrop ship to the UK? Wow few to do research on there, actually the second time I've had the DT990's suggested, are there any in the list you favour more than the others? Cheers will keep an eye out! They do look good.

(Original title I know) Hello everyone was hoping you would be able to help me! I am looking for a new headset to use for gaming and general TV/movie watching. I have had a pair of Turtle Beach X12s for the past 3 years and they have finally given up the ghost so I have decided to invest in an upgraded pair for the future. I would like to preface this by saying that I am not an audiophile at all, the first time I got my X12's the sound on them absolutely blew my mind and they were only £30 from my local shop, so I dont really know what i'm looking for, I just want something that overall provides a better sound than just a normal pair of headphones, and actually feels like I am getting value for my money. My budget is £150(which Google tells me is around $190) but I would be willing to stretch to around £200 for a really good pair. I am a bit of a rare case in the fact that I don't play games online, so a microphone is really not a need for me, most of the games I play are offline games such as RPGS and Action games and watch the occasional film and Netflix series, but I probably lean about 80% gaming so this is more important for me. The problems I am having is seperating between a gaming headset and just a normal pair of headphones, I've seen multiple sources that say you can probably get a much better sound for the same price using a pair of normal headphones due to "gaming" headsets being filled with unneeded things and the microphone, I have been looking at these two pairs Steel Series Acrtis 7 and these Sennheiser HD 598SR but any reccomendations would be more than welcome. I would also if possible would like for the headphones to be wireless but I do realise that this may not be possible in my price point and I would prefer better sound than wireless capabilities. Thank you in advance! TLDR; Headset for gaming, Between £150 - £200, Don't use microphone so normal headphones are fine, Wireless if possible - but not a higher priority than sound.

Hello guys, just an update looking for some advice. Got my RAM to finally work at 3333Mhz with my CPU at 3.9Ghz. Got my CPU at 1.35 volts and my RAM at 1.38. Managed to pass every benchmark (OCCT for 3 hours normal, 2 hours on Linpack, Maxmimum on 50 cycles of intel burn test, 8 hours of real bench and had no errors at all in any benchmarks i've been doing, as well as about 40 minutes playing Battlefield 1) except Prime 95 that fails with a rounding error after about 3 hours. Im running a blend test which I think is more likely to be the ram that fails? I was considering either doing a Memtest or upping my RAM volts to 1.4 and trying again. Was wondering if this was needed or if it is likely that it could be a false positive - my RAM is still not running to it's actual speed, and the CPU overclock(and my temps are very stable) No idea what to do next.

Thank you for the help everyone! doen't look like I am going to get 3466 working so I am giving 3400 a go, just going to work my way back and see what I can get working best.

As far an im aware IBT uses RAM very heavily - especially in the higher stress tests! Although I'm happy to be corrected if I am wrong. I am 99.9 percent sure my CPU overclock is ok - it's passed all the IBT tests on it's own as well as a few hours in Prime and OCCT(trying to be safe - ha) Only fails once I apply the change in RAM settings. Although I will give one of those pieces of software a try to see if they show any problems!

Already have SOC at 1.1 and DRAM at 1.42 - didn't know how safe it would be to go over that/would it be worth it for the performance.

Oh wow! I just asked an almost identical question. I left the tab open for too long when getting all of my information together and you asked first haha. Going to try some of the information from this thread - small world