AperumDesign

HeatKiller's Tube res is somewhat different, some more unique ones such as Phanteks Glacier units are block type res/pump combos. 
https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/reservoirs/tubing-reservoirs/watercool-heatkiller-tube/heatkiller-tube-d5/21115/watercool-heatkiller-tube-150-d5?c=21071
http://www.phanteks.com/PH-R220.html

Understanding which fittings need to be purchased when building a loop is often the most difficult part of getting into custom-loop water-cooling, especially since companies such as Bitspower offer such a huge range. I've made a relatively simple flow chart that I believe will make understanding the purpose of fittings available on the market much easier. Feel free to ask any questions or offer any suggestions.
 
 
 

 

Understanding which fittings need to be purchased when building a loop is often the most difficult part of getting into custom-loop water-cooling, especially since companies such as Bitspower offer such a huge range. I've made a relatively simple flow chart that I believe will make understanding the purpose of fittings available on the market much easier. Feel free to ask any questions or offer any suggestions.
 
 
 

 

Understanding which fittings need to be purchased when building a loop is often the most difficult part of getting into custom-loop water-cooling, especially since companies such as Bitspower offer such a huge range. I've made a relatively simple flow chart that I believe will make understanding the purpose of fittings available on the market much easier. Feel free to ask any questions or offer any suggestions.
 
 
 

 

Understanding which fittings need to be purchased when building a loop is often the most difficult part of getting into custom-loop water-cooling, especially since companies such as Bitspower offer such a huge range. I've made a relatively simple flow chart that I believe will make understanding the purpose of fittings available on the market much easier. Feel free to ask any questions or offer any suggestions.
 
 
 

 

Understanding which fittings need to be purchased when building a loop is often the most difficult part of getting into custom-loop water-cooling, especially since companies such as Bitspower offer such a huge range. I've made a relatively simple flow chart that I believe will make understanding the purpose of fittings available on the market much easier. Feel free to ask any questions or offer any suggestions.
 
 
 

 

Understanding which fittings need to be purchased when building a loop is often the most difficult part of getting into custom-loop water-cooling, especially since companies such as Bitspower offer such a huge range. I've made a relatively simple flow chart that I believe will make understanding the purpose of fittings available on the market much easier. Feel free to ask any questions or offer any suggestions.
 
 
 

 

Try first without those diy cables. If issues persist, we can see if SpeedFan or maybe BIOS is issue. Is BIOS updated to latest? Did you remember to set CPU warning temp in SpeedFan correctly (desired temp setting). SpeedFan might also not be fully supported on your system.

UPDATE 02 (15/01/18) - Laser-cut Acrylic and Watercooling Components
 
Sorry it's been a long wait for the second update to this build log. The project has been on hold up until roughly a week ago, but today the last of the components (namely the fittings) came in. The build is scheduled to be finished within the next week, so expect the remaining updates much more frequently.
 

 
These are all of the acrylic pieces designed to cover up and 'simplify' the case by removing unused holes/grills etc. All dimensions were taken off the CM Mastercase Pro 6. All designing was done in Autodesk Fusion 360 then exported to Inkscape for laser cutting. The sketches from Fusion 360 were then printed onto cardboard for drafting purposes to ensure that everything fit perfectly. Once I was happy with the fit, the pieces were laser cut onto 3mm matte black acrylic. From left to right: midplate cover, motherboard tray cover 1, rear cover, cable management and SSHD cover, motherboard tray cover 2 and cable pass-through. Dimensions are included in case anyone wants to use these pieces for their Mastercase build.
 

 
All laser cutting was outsourced to a local architectural model-making company who did a fantastic job. A few extra holes later, this is the final result.
 



 
EK PE360 and SE240 with 120mm EK Vardar Evo fans installed onto the Coolermaster radiator mount.
 

 
Ended up painting the stock Corsair Dominator Platinum covers matte black instead of purchasing the CableMod inserts, purely based on saving cost. It's a shame that we weren't able to fit the Maximus X Formula into the budget, since it would've worked with the matte black and gold theme much better, but the STRIX Z370-F board still looks great, especially with the HEATKILLER CPU block in Acetal.
 

 
HEATKILLER GPU 1080 FTW blocks also in Acetal installed onto the 1080s. 
 

 
The only pump-res combo on the market that I can justify buying, the Heatkiller Tube DDC 200 with a Laing DDC-1T Plus PWM pump installed. Absolutely amazing piece of hardware.
 

 
All Barrow fittings are in gold and will be used alongside 16mm OD PETG tubing.
 
That's all for now. Next update will be up within the next few days and will most likely include all of the custom cables and the cable management solutions in place to keep everything neat. Full-build shots coming soon. Thanks again for reading!

UPDATE 01 (18/12/17) - Core Components Product Photography #1
 
Typically my builds would start off with a few hundred hours in CAD, meaning I'd have some renders to show. In this build, all custom parts are laser-cut acrylic, so no 3D CAD will be necessary, although I did model up some of the acrylic work which will be shown at a later date. So instead, to start with, here are some of the core components we'll be throwing into the Mastercase Pro 6 from Cooler Master.
 


 
We originally wanted to go with the new Asus Maximus X Formula, however at the time of purchasing these components we were unsure of the release date, and the price was a little steep for the budget. The STRIX Z370-F is still an amazing board, and I'm so pleased with the direction manufacturers are taking motherboard design.
 

 
The glorious peel.. 
 


 
Couldn't quite fit a 960 Pro into the budget, but this will be plenty. I had wanted to minimise cable clutter by keeping all storage on M.2 drives, however it was just going to be too expensive. So instead, we ended up going for a single M.2 drive and an SSHD. 
 


 
Had to go with the 8700K. A brilliant chip for gaming, and the extra cores will allow for some extra performance in multi-threaded tasks.
 

 
SLI EVGA GTX 1080 FTW ACX 3.0 cards. SLI 1080ti's would've been ideal, however it was outside the budget. A single 1080ti would've been a more logical choice, however the dual cards work much better to fill out the case's internals. EVGA is always my go-to for watercooled builds.
 

 
My past 3 builds have all had Corsair Dominator Platinum RAM. The design is unbeatable if you ask me. These will have CableMod black memory kits on them eventually.
 

 
Always seem to end up using Corsair PSUs. This will be plenty for this build. We could've gone higher in terms of wattage, but at the time of purchasing I was unsure whether we would need the extra space in the case's lower compartment for storage. Sorry about the fingerprints
 
That's all for now. At the time of posting this, the build is about 50% complete. I should have a steady stream of updates for the next month or so before completion. Thanks for reading!

UPDATE 02 (15/01/18) - Laser-cut Acrylic and Watercooling Components
 
Sorry it's been a long wait for the second update to this build log. The project has been on hold up until roughly a week ago, but today the last of the components (namely the fittings) came in. The build is scheduled to be finished within the next week, so expect the remaining updates much more frequently.
 

 
These are all of the acrylic pieces designed to cover up and 'simplify' the case by removing unused holes/grills etc. All dimensions were taken off the CM Mastercase Pro 6. All designing was done in Autodesk Fusion 360 then exported to Inkscape for laser cutting. The sketches from Fusion 360 were then printed onto cardboard for drafting purposes to ensure that everything fit perfectly. Once I was happy with the fit, the pieces were laser cut onto 3mm matte black acrylic. From left to right: midplate cover, motherboard tray cover 1, rear cover, cable management and SSHD cover, motherboard tray cover 2 and cable pass-through. Dimensions are included in case anyone wants to use these pieces for their Mastercase build.
 

 
All laser cutting was outsourced to a local architectural model-making company who did a fantastic job. A few extra holes later, this is the final result.
 



 
EK PE360 and SE240 with 120mm EK Vardar Evo fans installed onto the Coolermaster radiator mount.
 

 
Ended up painting the stock Corsair Dominator Platinum covers matte black instead of purchasing the CableMod inserts, purely based on saving cost. It's a shame that we weren't able to fit the Maximus X Formula into the budget, since it would've worked with the matte black and gold theme much better, but the STRIX Z370-F board still looks great, especially with the HEATKILLER CPU block in Acetal.
 

 
HEATKILLER GPU 1080 FTW blocks also in Acetal installed onto the 1080s. 
 

 
The only pump-res combo on the market that I can justify buying, the Heatkiller Tube DDC 200 with a Laing DDC-1T Plus PWM pump installed. Absolutely amazing piece of hardware.
 

 
All Barrow fittings are in gold and will be used alongside 16mm OD PETG tubing.
 
That's all for now. Next update will be up within the next few days and will most likely include all of the custom cables and the cable management solutions in place to keep everything neat. Full-build shots coming soon. Thanks again for reading!

Thank you so much for the awesome response, this is exactly what I needed. I don't know why I thought the two were the same (thread size and tubing).

Yes I agree with this 100%. The 6XXs are probably the best headphone under $500 in my opinion. To the OP this is what I’d do. Buy the HD6XXs and use them in your dorm. Then buy a pair of Venture Electronics Monk Plus Earbuds for $5. I have both and I will tell you it’s scary how good those earbuds are for $5. They are if say 80% as good as the 6XXs, they can’t be beat.

Reamer will work just fine. 1500W heat gun is perfect. Got the same tube cutter which works well. Tends to leave a light mark on PETG tubing but that is typically hidden inside the fittings. I use these for quick cutting, but they're not really necessary if you have the adjustable one you linked above, and they can deform the tube slightly. Good to go

I don't even think there's any real need to buy a heat gun with temperature control. The only criteria I see as important is having a flat back. I've always used a cheap one I bought locally. Stick with one temperature and learn what sort of distance you need between the tubing and heat gun to get the tube to a malleable temperature in a time frame that isn't too short or too long (20-30 seconds is ideal).
 
For bending tools, I use Barrow's mandrel kit. If you wanted you could buy a more expensive variant such as Monsoon's kit (which I believe comes with a heat gun also), however I get perfect bends using Barrow's kit, which is a fraction of the price.

Not really, it does help in terms of ease of bleeding the loop by having the ports face up but will not impact much once it does get bled. 

Nice, this is going in my sig

Understanding which fittings need to be purchased when building a loop is often the most difficult part of getting into custom-loop water-cooling, especially since companies such as Bitspower offer such a huge range. I've made a relatively simple flow chart that I believe will make understanding the purpose of fittings available on the market much easier. Feel free to ask any questions or offer any suggestions.
 
 
 

 

I just wrote up this flow chart which details the use of fittings in general. Hopefully that sheds some light on your question.
 
 
 

For soft tubing you want to make sure for compression style ones the ID and OD both match, for bards just the ID has to match. 
 
Hardline compression fittings similarly you want the ID and OD to match but also must note which brands you are using if the tubing and fittings are not the same manufacture as there is both inch and metric exact tubing.
 

Depends if you're using hardline tubing or soft tubing and barb, push in or compression. 
 
Compression is really the most common now. For that, you need to match the ID and OD of the tubing and fittings. 
 
EDIT: Basically:
Barb: Match the ID of the tubing to the barb
Soft tube compression: Match both ID and OD of tubing and fitting
Hardline compression: Match the OD of the tube and fitting
Hardline push-in: Match the OD of the tube and fitting

My bad, I did not realize that singularity was only making 60mm res holders. I should have looked further. 

These won't work for his 50mm diameter res since they're designed for 60mm reservoirs only.
 
Depending on your budget, you could perhaps draw some up (or get someone to draw some up for you) and have them laser cut locally from some 8mm or so acrylic (not metal, but far from brittle). I don't know of any 50mm res mounts unfortunately.

Thanks, JDE and AperumDesign for the other resources, because even though the formfactors.org pdf is helpful, it doesn't include all of the mounting holes' positions.

Try once a year No issues at all with running 24/7, most of the point of a custom loop is consistent reliability Every 2-3 Year's or when the liquid isn't flowing correctly Yes.