Santo22

just a side note, do you see the drop box of locations? It's currently set to by Areas and then below that you have I/O selected. You need to change that to the area you want to change the color on. Or if you want everything the same color you select the option for Single Color. In the drop down box by area you will see each individual ram slot as well as each individual selectable led. Usually four areas per ram stick on the TridentZ. I just want to make sure you were aware of that. 
 
 
edit:: didn't see that was already answered. 

It is a well kept secret that "blinker fluid" is the best you can possibly use. It comes in several different colors and can be found at any auto parts store. Just make sure you ask the person at the desk because they don't normally have any on the shelves.

'best' as in 'best at conducting heat away from water blocks' is distilled water. You'd think that science would be able to come up with a more conductive fluid by now but if they have, it hasn't made its way to PC cooling yet.
 
As others have said, I stay away from opaque or shampoo-looking fluids because the particles that make them not transparent WILL eventually fall out and gunk up your loop. Dyes can stain. In my main rig I'm just running a clear EK Cryofuel additive per loop, but in my gaming rig I'll be using an XSPC UV blue concentrate.

distilled water has the best thermal conductivity. i like to to mix a ratio of a little distilled water to mostly ek cryofuel 

@For Science!
Has an objective look at various premix fluids and what they contain.

Cryofuel is generally considered a top tier choice, but it's by no means the only option. It is largely subjective. I personally use Distilled with X1 concentrate added to it, but that's simply because it's never given me any issue, not because I find it to be the absolute best thing ever.

That said, the closer you can get to pure water, the better it's going to perform. The more (necessary) additives you have, the "lower" performance you'll see, but we're looking at insignificant differences in most situations. (read through the topic linked above)

All dyed fluids that I know of (and based upon material properties) will have stain issues. Clogging will happen with dyes that have fallout/separation issues (particular note to boutique and opaque fluids). undyed fluids shouldn't cause clogging issues unless you have growth forming in your loop.

Just waiting on the fittings which should be here Wednesday and then I can wrap this project up and mark it done. 
 
Need to decide what color fluid too. I'm stuck between white or light blue or just leaving it clear. Let me know what you think!! 
 
Some pics in the mean time. 
 

Thank you for the confirmation. 

This just makes me sad at how popular fortnite has become.
 

Personally i lick the bottom of every cpu before installing it for good luck

It will run fine with only the 8 pin connected. You will still be able to overclock as well. Have fun, sounds like a good setup. 

Thanks for the info.
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HG7HO22/ref=pd_luc_rh_crh_rh_sbs_02_01_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
similar, ill get it ordered at the price.

absolutely love this line from thermaltake, I've seen some mods where people take two p7's and mash them together, I'm thinking about doing that or a custom casemod to achieve a p790 (a p90 with p7's as the hinged panels)
not sure how far I want to go exactly.

complete disassembly and rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. that'll come right out. 

because Ryzen goes higher than 3.95GHz with auto settings?
 
Really, Ryzen 2000 series dont work that well with manual overclocks on the CPU itself, just crank the 'core performance boost' to the most aggressive settings and let it work itself out. If you want to tune things yourself, do the RAM. Increasing the frequency without increasing the timings too much is the way to go (calculate frequency divided by timings, the larger the result the better)

on a side note, they're giving away 2086 of them to US residents and 500 to Canadian residents in a 24-hour giveaway here:
https://game.intel.com/8086sweepstakes/
 
and I just learned of a funny Canadian anti-gambling law by reading the sweetstakes rules - "potential winners who are Canadian residents must correctly answer, unaided, a time-limited mathematical skill-testing question as posed by Sponsor"
 
And if you look at the bottom of the sweepstakes info, looks like MSRP is $425 USD which is a steal compared to Silicon Lottery.

Hey SullyATX,
 
Made an account just to weigh in on this, even though it's been a while. I recently refurbished a system as a bit of an experiment and I thought the results were pretty interesting.

I started off with an air can just as you mentioned, but actually followed it with a deep clean using Dettol Antibacterial wipes. Seriously. The ones with all the strong cleaning chemicals in. I was curious if the system would live and amazingly it did without any detectable negative impact, visible or otherwise. I think this suggests system components are actually tougher than many of us think, provided you're careful about getting stuff in ports or physically bending things. 

Anyway, onto the actually useful stuff.
 
I follow the steps: Air Can >> Makeup brush >>  WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner

Makeup brushes are very fine, soft and small, so don't cause scratches and pickup dust pretty well. I always wear an ESD strap though and tap the brush on it for added safety very often, which is probably borderline superstition but hey, no harm in being over cautious.

I haven't tried anything other than this particular WD-40 cleaner as it's so good I haven't needed to, but do be aware there's a minor risk it'll eat away at some of the text labels/decorations on some electronics according to other users, never seen it happen myself though.

In my opinion a good soaking with the WD-40 cleaner gets the good-as-new look so I have never even looked at a board laqueur, I can see that being a lot of effort but maybe see what you think once you've got this far.

Which you probably have already given this is a few weeks late...

In 2018, I can count the number of new major games coming out with CrossFire and SLI support on one hand if at all.
 
@Aqs If you need more performance then I'd advise selling the RX 460 2GB and buying an RX 480 or RX 580 considering they seem to be coming down in price in most countries (although apparently not in Canada).

youre the best

What exactly isn't working? You have no wifi icon in the task bar? You may need to go to the motherboard website and download the driver. You should have an icon at the bottom right of task bar to see what open networks there are. Let me know exactly what the problem is and I'll try to help. I just built with the same board. 

Awesome build, if you feel like parting with that P3 I'll be happy to help take it off your hands lol looking foward to seeing the finished project

Clear EK Fluid. Still clear after 2 years and no stains. Love it.

All colorered fluids Will stain eventually. Even distilled water with additives will discolor your blocks due to oxydization

Thank you! The one loop going into the GPU is being replaced when I get my fittings. It just didn't come out how I pictured it. Also the bottom soft tube ofcourse will be replaced. 

ok will definately check it out

not to mention if you go get it you can pick up a motherboard and get another $30 off. And a bunch of the motherboards have rebates right now. Yes it's not the latest Ryzen 2, but the 1700 is a great chip on it's own let alone at this price.