Jump to content

Santo22

Member
  • Posts

    363
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Santo22

  1. Here's mine with no added RGB strips. Just RGB cooling components and Fans. I've actually been thinking about adding one RGB strip on the bottom of the case to give an under glo but not decided yet.
  2. Thank you everyone for your input! Really appreciate all the help. I ended up going with Cryofuel and in the Cloud White. I figured since I was so torn about going with a color, nothing is as neutral as white, lol. I'll run it for a while and see how it works out. I do like how the white works good with any RGB color I set. Next year when it comes time to flush and change I'll have to see if there's any staining. Thank you all again!
  3. I'm about to do my yearly water cooling loop drain, flush and fill. I've only ever ran distilled water and additive in this system. I'm just wondering if there's anything out there that doesn't stain or clog a system that you guys might recommend. I've done tons of searching and reading and man when people say it's subjective, they are not kidding. So figured I'd just ask here and see what you guys say. Of course just filling back up with distilled is also an option. I was kind of thinking maybe going with a blue fluid. Thanks! Happy holidays!
  4. I used the Glacier blocks and I'm pretty sure the 1080ti is different. The 1070 and regular 1080 are the same, but I think the ti version may be different. They should still fit though. I'm still using the pc as my daily work station and its been great. doing 1070 sli is pointless though so at this point I'm just keeping it this way for the looks. I've been thinking about selling both cards and getting a 2080ti but at the same time I just want to leave it since its running fine for my use.
  5. Santo22

    Sound Problem

    this could be a physical problem with the board then. if for some reason the audio driver on the motherboard is damaged, the only work around I can suggest would be to get an inexpensive sound card if you have an available PCIE slot. If you've already tried everything I suggested, as well as a clean windows install, I honestly don't know what else could be the problem. Some computer specs would help. Are you running an graphics card or onboard graphics? Do you have NVidia control panel or AMD Radeon? Only other thing that comes to mind would be to do a CMOS reset as well if you haven't already.
  6. you can run Memtest and verify that the RAM is or is not corrupted. That would be my next step. If it is corrupted, then you know what the problem is.
  7. KMODE BSD can be caused by corrupted RAM or incorrect/missmatched timings. On the blue screen did you have any other codes after the KMODE? Sometimes it will point to a specific driver. It is possible that with Windows 7 the RAM is being picked up even though there is a problem with it. I'm assuming your RAM does not all match since you have 10gb total. You may want to purchase a complete matching kit or just run with the 8gb for now.
  8. Santo22

    Sound Problem

    my best suggestion to you would be go to the manufacture website of the board, I'm assuming Asus in this case, and download the latest Audio Driver. Install the driver and restart PC and see if this brings your audio back. If this doesn't work, next thing I would do is go to device manager, uninstall any sound devices and then reinstall. Try these and let us know if anything changes.
  9. I have a 6300 system that my daughter is using and an 8350 that I use to mess around. Although both very old, the 8350 is MUCH faster then the 6300. The 6300 is overclocked 5% and gets a 420 in Cinebench. The 8350 is at 4.8ghz and gets an 850-880. I would stay away from the 9590 as it's usually overpriced and very power hungry and runs hot. One other option would be an 8320, but you can probably find an 8350 for pretty cheap used on eBay.
  10. if I did the math right, that's about $300 US dollars? if so, that's a not a bad deal at all. I bought an MSI 1060 6gb at the start of the year for $379 and it didn't come with anything. I think GPU prices will continue to come down as the new cards are launched, but that right now is a good deal since a 1060 here is the same price, but you're also getting an SSD, so nice bonus
  11. are you using any splitters for the fans or even a hub or are each fan plugged directly into a header on the mobo? sometimes when using a splitter it can screw with the rpm readings. as for the temp spike, if this is the same reading in different softwares it may be very well the cpu is spiking due to a background program running. for example, with my Ryzen system and with Ryzen master open, it utilizes the cpu quit a bit and will make temp spike up to 50c then immediately drop back to the 30c idle temp I normally have. if you want to change the fan curve so it doesn't make the fans ramp up like that you can look in the bios and you should be able to adjust the curve in there.
  12. Two things I would verify at this point: 1:Was it a fresh windows install on the drive you are using to boot? I didn't see you mention that 2: This could be a network issue. I would make sure you have the latest network driver installed right off your motherboards website If both of those are done already, may consider a fresh install of windows again just to rule it out.
  13. so long as you are not running multiple rgb software, you will be fine. I have been running Tridentz RGB on my Asus Crosshair for almost a year now and have no problems with SPD data. I use the Asus Aura to control them.
  14. I believe in most manuals they do say the 4pin is optional.
  15. exactly. I haven't seen anything yet that needed the 4 extra pins under normal conditions.
  16. Using a screwdriver is the easiest and cheapest way, but if you really don't want to do that, I have used these in some custom builds and they are very nice: https://www.amazon.com/KNACRO-Chassis-Switch-computer-restart/dp/B01MT3277L/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1529681620&sr=8-4&keywords=pc+power+switch
  17. It will run fine with only the 8 pin connected. You will still be able to overclock as well. Have fun, sounds like a good setup.
  18. I feel like it has to be one of two things, One (and hopefully most likely) you're just missing something, ie: a cable not plugged in somewhere, something not seated properly.... or Two, something shorted out in the process. The PSU is definitely working?
  19. Just want to verify somethings first, You have tried the power button that is at the bottom of the motherboard? You can also press and hold the clear cmos button on the back of the board for a few seconds and try to clear out the bios. Double check that the 24pin connector and the 8pin cpu is pressed all the way in? What if anything else did you have disconnected when doing the loop? And you didn't spill any water anywhere did you?
  20. In your NVidia control panel do you have the Power Management preference set to "Prefer Maximum Performance"? This will keep the card at the base clock even when at idle. Oopsss.. I should have read your whole post, sorry. I didn't see the last line. Good question then.
  21. IMO, for the time being, I would put 2 fans in the front and one at the back. The two in the front as intake and the one in the back as exhaust. Later if you can add one more fan to the front and possibly another exhaust at top, then that would be even better. Again, just IMO
  22. Thermaltake Core P3. You can pretty much do what ever you want with it.
  23. IMO, you can't really "over apply" thermal paste. I mean, you can to the point where it's seeping out the sides and may cause other issues, but in general, people put a little too much thought into how much paste to use. It's there to fill in micro gaps, as others have stated. So long as you are mounting the cooler properly, the amount of paste being used is going to make minimal to no difference in temps (considering also that you didn't only apply the smallest little dot)
  24. complete disassembly and rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. that'll come right out.
×