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    Does SATA last longer than PCI-E NVME?

    What he said ^^ SATA vs NVMe is just the protocol that the system uses to push data down to the flash cells. With SATA, it's an extension of the chipset and is through Serial communication, a single pipe of communication. With NVMe it's parralel communication pushed through the PCIe bus. The longevity of a drive varies widely based on the manufacturer and the technology as described above. So saying SATA or NVMe Drives will last longer would never hold water. EDIT: And should you worry? Not really. Again, the lifetime is based on the amount of data you write to the cells. So if you use your SSDs to say, pull in daily 4K Videos, edit that video, and delete it, you'll be worse off than the person who installs their operating system on it once and then forgets about it for 5 years. I would say for the average user, disregarding failures that do happen, you'll probably be looking at a 5-10 year life span easily.
  2. Since I have time to kill decided to go with my latter option, but through NewEgg since it's cheaper but ships from China. mSATA to PCIe: https://www.newegg.com/p/17Z-00C9-000C4 - $14 2 x mSATA 128GB Transcend Drives: $40
  3. Yeah I was just about to answer my own question from this here: https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000026416/memory-and-storage.html "PCIe* NVMe*-based SSDs require specific hardware, BIOS and driver support to be used as a boot device. See below for some requirements for a successful installation." So anyone have a good recommendation for ~$50 USD solution on how to get another drive in my system? Don't have any easily available ATX power for SATA drives, so I'm basically stuck with USB Boot drives (not recommended) or something over the PCIe slot.
  4. I grabbed a well price Dell R410 Server online and was planning on installing Proxmox VE on it but then realized I probably don't want to put the main OS on the ZFS storage pool. So I started looking at Basic SATA SSDs but I can't spot any free ATX power connectors for that (which is weird because there is a Spare SATA II for the optical drive). So I started looking at M.2 drives in PCIE adaptors. However I need to know before jumping in, can I even boot off an NVMe drive on that era of computer? Are there some chipset requirements for that? Or does it just emulate a SATA device on older generation devices and it's all fine and dandy? I found two well priced candidates: Samsung PM961: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/x64NnQ/samsung-pm961-128gb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-mzvlw128hegr-00000 (Don't snatch those all up ha) Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/Lycom-DT-120-PCIe-Adapter-Support/dp/B00MYCQP38 EDIT: Anyone see any issue with this combo on this older motherboard? mSATA to PCIE Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/SEDNA-Express-Adapter-Profile-included/dp/B00WCZTX68 32GB Samsung mSATA SSD: https://www.ebay.com/p/Samsung-M-2-mSATA-32gb-Solid-State-SSD-Mzmpc032hbcd-000h1/4010716033?iid=392122900409

    Slim Profile USB Micro-B Cable?

    This is probably my end solution. I may just carefully rip off the shielding and then add heat shrink tubing around it. Thinnest it’ll ever be.

    Slim Profile USB Micro-B Cable?

    You got it. It's a sandwich keyboard run off of a Chinese Arduino Pro Micro https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12587 . So I get the USB Micro-B from that directly (I'm probably going to revise this board some later time to add USB-C and SMD leds). So my goals is simply to shrink down the cable so that I can get the bottom plate as close as possible to the Arduino, which is the highest thing on the PCB. https://imgur.com/23Q5opf https://imgur.com/5y7i7q1

    Slim Profile USB Micro-B Cable?

    Weird question here: I was wondering if anyone here has ever come across a really slim profile USB Micro-B cable? (Other end can be USB-A or USB-C I suppose). If I can't just buy one from a store anyone got a decent place for DIY cable parts? The reason is that I just build a custom keyboard ( https://68keys.io/ to be exact). While I really enjoy it, with SA Keycaps on it, I find that it's just barely too high up, even with a wrist rest. I can see that the cable is the limiting factor here. I think right now I can shrink it from 15mm spacers to 12mm spacers right now without a change of cable. From my measurements, it seems like I can actually get it closer to 10mm if I get a really thin cable. I.E. just barely thicker than the connector itself. Ideas?

    Google Stadia (Cloud Gaming)

    Amen basically. I find the idea very interesting and it seems like they'll execute it well, but it more than likely does use Chrome specific APIs, so it isn't truly "for everyone". I'm also really interested and weirded out about how their revenue model looks like. They invited studios to make games that are computationally intense, which means I'm assuming it will run across a few of the Stadia nodes, so am I the end user going to pay more for a game that has to use more nodes. Like AWS pricing? Or am I just paying a subscription that somehow is high enough to balance out the crazy resource heavy games with ones that could run on like a single core. Also not physically owning a game still makes me feel weird and I've questioned how the end times will play out for everyone. Like for Steam would they allow me to download everything before they shut down? On my PS3 is there some magic way of cloning the HDD to keep the games on it alive forever?
  9. I’m in the middle of helping a friend of mine who’s opening a business do his networking. Cable is pulled, all the female Ethernet Jacks and Keystones are done, but now I’m on an annoyingly tricky part. The office didn’t have much space so he went against having a patch bay, and instead wanted to terminate directly into the 24 Port Managed Switch. Im familiar with the color codes for the Male RJ-45 connector and method. I even dug up an old NCIX video to make sure I wasn’t dumb, but it’s taking far too long to do a single termination. My issues: 1) One or more of the strands doesn’t go into the housing slot. 2) 7/8 go in, but one bends in the middle and doesn’t go in. 3) Despite being in the correct order before insertion, the forces acting on them make strands swap places. So what pro tips do you have to avoid any of those? It took me ~25 minutes to do 2 male terminations, so I obviously need to cut that time down.

    What was your first Linus Tech Tips video?

    Heard Linus mention this in the stream and had to comment. I was actually looking for new stuff in my vinyl Turntable Audio Chain. Hifi Gear never has any good reviews. It wasn’t even the product I was looking for, but the highest ranked video for the search “Schitt” (the company name). Been watching daily since. Programmer/sys admin/gamer that just appreciates his candid takes on the industry.

    Gigabyte RTX 2070 Windforce OC vs non OC

    Thanks. I was seriously debating it but the Newegg reviews show so many people had issues with the card. Not to mention I run games in Linux most of the time and I doubt support is any better there. I’ll give it a few more months and look for sales.

    Gigabyte RTX 2070 Windforce OC vs non OC

    Any updates 2-3 weeks later? I saw that Newegg had a “sale” (only $20) on the 2070 Windforce Card and I might jump on it. Selling my 1070 it won’t even cost that much to upgrade (but I don’t think the 1070 will have nearly as much value by the time next gen GPUs come around).

    Water spilled in pc

    My computer is still running fine as well. Will let you know under a microscope in a few months. Just adding data so that the internet has the information.

    Water spilled in pc

    Well, follow up, I spent maybe 6 hours total tearing apart my rig, drying it, with anti-static rag, q-tips in tight crevices etc. I even took off my GPU backplate just to make sure. Surprisingly, almost nothing got into the back of the PCB, so maybe this is an unsung feature. I used the highest zoom lens I have for my camera to check out solder joints and everything seemed fine, so I just went for it, I knew there was nothing in the power supply because the Meshify’s shroud had me covered there. To my luck, the CPU booted up just fine, so after checking CPU voltages in CPU-Z, and seeing that they looked fairly regular, I decided to pop in my GPU as well. That spun up and has normal voltage/current levels as well. For now I feel pretty confident that I lucked out and saved it, but since I planning on buying a lab microscope for my EE lab soon anyways, I’ll probably check out the board in a few months and see if there’s anything I can touch up later.

    Water spilled in pc

    I’ll post in this thread as well just to avoid duplicates. I always use a water bottle with a lock on the top around my PC but my daughter put a cup on the desk and I should have known Murphys Law was bound to manifest itself. the case is a Meshify C, so has huge grates at the top. Lots of water got in, maybe 50-100mL. Power was on, but on lock screen. I noticed it syslicked (no mouse movement) so I flicked off the power supply switch quickly and unplugged everything within 10 seconds. Ive taken literally everything out, which was wise because there was water everywhere. In my Air Cooler, behind the motherboard, on the VRMs, etc. I vacuumed up some with my wet vac, and then used an anti-static cloth for the rest. It looks fairly dry but I’m going to give it a once over and put a fan on it. my question though is, should I technically just consider the motherboard dead? It’s a Z-370A with an 8700K and a Gigabyte G1 1070. Worst case if I have no luck is obviously that a short causes damage to the CPU/GPU. So replacing just te MoBo would be $130 ish, but it could get much worse if something is invisibly bad. Thoughts?