monotron

Have you tried using the Clear CMOS header, marked JBAT1, to clear the CMOS? You would do this while the system is powered off - just short the two pins together with a jumper or a flat-head screwdriver, whichever one you have.

PCI-Express revisions are both backwards and forwards compatible - you can put a PCI-Express 2.0 card in a 3.0 slot and vice versa. It'll just run at the lower bandwidth of PCI-Express 2.0 in this example.

There's also the possibility that there could be a short occurring, which would trip the power off. Do the other ports still work? If you're trying this on your front panel connectors, try the ones on your motherboard and see if they work, and vice versa. Make sure there's nothing stuck in the port too.

Both of those PCs should be just fine for what you need - there's no need to rush out and build another system. Just use the 1080 as your gaming rig, install a capture card in the 970 machine and you'll be golden

Perhaps not, but it doesn't make sense when you can end up with much more storage for far less money - a more important consideration if you want to install lots of games etc.

Great to hear. Not heard of this issue randomly occurring after an upgrade, but glad to know this worked.

I'm feeling benevolent, so here's a run down of all the components in that system, and why I think your choices are good or bad: Ryzen 7 1700X - Good choice, but you might be able to save a few dough by dropping down to the 1700 and just overclocking to make up the disparity in base clock speed. XFR isn't a must have in any case. Corsair H100i - again a good choice, but pretty unnecessary. You can definitely save some money by going for a decent air cooler, such as something from Noctua or be quiet!. Biostar X370GTN - I would recommend going for a B350 board from another "top tier" manufacturer such as ASUS or Gigabyte. Biostar are not exactly known for their quality. The Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI would be my pick. Corsair Vengeance LED 32GB - What exactly do you need so much RAM for? 16GB is all you'll ever need for gaming for the next few years. Unless you need it for content creation/VMs/more heavy lifting, I would recommend a 16GB kit of the same memory. Samsung 850 EVO 1TB - Again, slightly overkill for a build such as this. You'd be better served by a smaller SSD and a separate HDD for mass storage. ASUS Turbo 1080Ti - Nice choice, though I'd avoid reference style blower coolers as they tend to run hotter and louder than their aftermarket counterparts. The EVGA SC 1080Ti is a better option. Corsair 250D case - Great choice. Nothing I would change here. Corsair 750W PSU - Total overkill for a system like this. I've dropped you down to an EVGA Supernova G3 650W PSU - this should still give you plenty of breathing room for the future, while saving you some dough in the short term. Here's a link to a PC Part Picker list with the aforementioned changes applied: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kLgCNN This configuration saves you almost $450 over your old setup, for almost no loss in performance whatsoever. As an aside, why do you feel you need Mini ITX? It's tempting to build such a small system, but unless you have a good reason for wanting Mini ITX, you might be better served by a full-size ATX system.

Yes, in theory, but you lose any guarantee that the kits will work reliably together, and installing one stick might affect the capabilities of the other (i.e. it might run at a slower timing to accommodate a slower stick). If you install it, the worst that can happen is your system no longer POSTs - in that case, you simply just remove it from your system.

Open up the registry editor, and navigate to the following key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\MTCUVC If MTCUVC doesn't exist inside the CurrentVersion key, right click CurrentVersion and click New > Key, and call it MTCUVC. Then, right click on the MTCUVC key, and select New > DWORD (32-bit) value. Call it EnableMtcUvc, double click it, and set its value to 1. Log off, and log back on again. You should now see the Metro-style volume control, as you had it before. Just personally verified this on my Windows 10 FCU system. If you're confused, here's how things should look when you're finished:

If you can boot onto a Windows boot drive, you can press SHIFT+F10 to open a Command Prompt, in which you should be able to run chkdsk /f to check the disk and mark it as clean.

The 1600X is a great CPU, so you won't need to worry about performance. I'm from the UK, so can't really comment on Newegg service, but I've heard they're pretty good. Maybe others in this thread would be better qualified to answer such questions.

Seems like a pretty good deal, provided you can't find the individual components cheaper elsewhere. I would say go for it - Asrock boards have gotten a lot better over the years.

Did you install a 32-bit version of Windows? 32-bit Windows can only address ~4GB RAM, due to the limitations imposed by a 32-bit address space. As for the clock speed issues, try enabling XMP in the BIOS.

I'm sure you can get it fixed, not to worry. You could try reseating anything in the general vicinity of where you worked on the system - it's entirely possible you might have knocked something loose, including the CPU if you can. Try stripping the system down to its bare-minimum configuration (i.e. no GPU) to see if you get any further in the POST process. Does your motherboard have Dr Debug/POST codes or anything similar? If it's sticking on a particular code, you could look it up in your motherboard manual.

Another suggestion - could you have accidentally knocked the front panel headers loose when working in the system? Try shorting the two power cable pins together using a paperclip to see if it boots that way.