salatji

For an office pc, that A320 motherboard is fine. A Ryzen 1600 doesn't consume more than around 60 watts, and the 5-10w the VRM would dissipate due to inefficiency can be easily dissipated into the motherboard
The GTX 1050 ti is overkill for an office pc though, some would pay decent money for one.   You could potentially sell the Ryzen 1600 and video card as a bundle and get a used 2200g or something like that and put the difference in ram.

Sorry lol I guess my brain skipped over that part.

It is not actually using more power when idle, the voltage is higher, yes, but the actual power draw is less. The reason the voltage is lower when running under load is because there is voltage drop due to the increased power draw. Most motherboards have LLC (Load-Line Calibration) settings to try and combat this since it can sometimes cause instability when overclocking very far.

Thanks @Zando Bob and @nick name!  Appreciate your alls insight as always!

I used HWMonitor, CPU core temps and CPU package temp. 

First gen adds to the Tctl and Tdie is what it actually is.  

@nick name if you get this read my post above, summoning people who may know

1.) Yes CineR20 will crash me in about 2 seconds if I don't have a proper way to carry the heat away (thermal crash)
2.) Anything over 1.375 (iirc) can potentially cause silicone degredation in Ryzen first gen.  What is your Windows power plan?  Make sure its on Maximum Performance so that you don't fail a OC due to Windows thinking you need less juice.  It can fluctuate but when I put load on mine it hits my max.  Id say perfectly normal, get your Windows Power Plan corrected.
3.) Are you talking about SOC Offset?  I have ASUS and ASRock boards I use.  If its the SOC Offset (located within the same fields as OCing the CPU) there is a max, iirc, of 1.2v, anything over that will fry your Memory Controller on the CPU.  I have HEARD that you should put it at 1.15v for better OCing of your RAM, however I have left mine on Auto because so far so good for me.  Once I have time Im tempted to play more with this to get my 1% crashes down to 0% perfect stability.
 
3.1) If you are talking about CPU voltages more in depth options, you will need to speak with someone more fluent than I in overclocking, sorry.  Im actually quite a baby at this, but through trial and error I am starting to understand.
 
Ill summon @Zando Bob he may have something to say, typically knows something about everything.   For some reason it wont let me tag @nick name.  He also is very versed in Ryzen.
 

Yes absolutely does, because your CPU memory controller only guarantees 2667mhz, anything over that, is luck, and potentially unstable.
 
Start your OC with your CPU then move to memory for Ryzen gen 1 in my experience (I have 2 1700s I play with).  Put the CPU to max turbo boost settings, and then start with a voltage of 1.375vCore.  If it boots, and passes CineR20 and a Firestrike run you can either choose to increase MHZ, or reduce voltage.  Id increase CPU by 100mhz increments, until unstable and either decide if Im willing to move to 1.4vCore or not.
 
After you get a stable CPU OC, then work on your RAM.  My system is 99% stable, but sometimes it crashes, as I fine tune the 3600mhz Im able to push on my memory controller.
 
 

If you just want something functional, the Gammaxx 400 is a great value and provides ample room for oc'ing: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/hJFPxr/deepcool-cpu-cooler-gammaxx400
If you want something very quiet, some great alternatives include the Mugen 5 Rev. B and Ninja 5.
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/8GBrxr/scythe-mugen-5-rev-b-512-cfm-cpu-cooler-scmg-5100
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/dZ3H99/scythe-ninja-5-430-cfm-cpu-cooler-scnj-5000

The Pro would be even better but also pretty overkill for your cpu. Both of them come with AM4 mounting brackets.
 
From Dark Rock 4 compatibility list: LGA 1150 (Socket H3), LGA 1151 (Socket H4), LGA 1155 (Socket H2), LGA 1156 (Socket H), LGA 1366 (Socket B), LGA 2011 (Socket R), LGA 2011-v3 (Socket R), LGA 2066, Buchse AM2, Buchse AM2+, Buchse AM3, Socket AM3+, Socket AM4, Socket FM1, Socket FM2, Socket FM2+

Pro 4 is beyond given budget (Its something like 90 euros right now). As for compatibility, on their website it says that it supports AM4.
https://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/1376
 
Also Pro 4 is just a massive freaking overkill for that CPU. Even normal Dark Rock 4 is overkill.

Dark Rock 4 or Noctua NH-U12S will do the job.

be quiet! Dark Rock 4, looks better than any other air cooler and the performance is top notch for the price.

I never seen Noctua towers with black fans.

Well-designed refers to their power delivery system. If that's complicated to understand then higher end ones should do, such as these
http://www.techradar.com/news/computing-components/motherboards/8-of-the-best-am3-motherboards-713409

You'll need a socket 1155 motherboard that supports overclocking. Like Jurrunio said, Z68 and Z77 motherboards can do that. P67 motherboards work well for overclocking, too.
 
A 2700k is just a higher-binned 2600k, and should easily reach 4.4 ghz, and has the potential to reach the 5 ghz range. That said, people have reported not noticing significant or worthwhile performance gains above 4.8 ghz, with diminishing returns really kicking in around 4.6 ghz. With a good air cooler, those CPUs should be able to handle up to around 1.42v safely, though most people aim to keep the voltage below 1.4v.
 
Some Sandy Bridge CPUs are made in Malaysia, and others are made in Costa Rica. The ones made in Costa Rica overclock better, needs less voltage to handle higher overclocks. The ones made in Malaysia require more voltage to handle an overclock, and so can't be overclocked as high as easily, and produce more heat at any given OC. You can tell where a CPU was made by looking on the heatspreader.
 

 

 
I have my Malaysia 2600k CPU overclocked to 4.6 ghz, using an air cooler and a voltage offset, which allows for conserving of electricity compared to a static manual voltage overclock. The max voltage my overclock reaches is 1.416v, while it idles close to 1.00v. When you overclock, do not leave the voltage setting on Auto, as that will result in way too much voltage being delivered to the CPU, potentially damaging the CPU depending on how much the core frequency has been overclocked.

The i7 2700k should overclock well up to and possibly beyond the 4.0ghz mark.
If you can get it cheaper than usual then it's a great buy.
I wouldn't have a clue what mobo to go for but have fun researching things from 2011, 
"Has 2 USB 3.0 ports!" do be careful with old mobos sometimes they don't have Sata 6gb/s as that will shit all over the SSD performance.
Here is a list of chipsets for sandy bridge and there features. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1155
Have fun 

It can overclock to just short of 5GHz. This depends on luck though, bad examples can only reach 4.5GHz with a voltage suitable for water cooling.
 
Z68 or Z77 mobos are your best choice. Dont get attracted by Z77's PCIe 3.0 support though, 2nd gen doesn't allow that.
 
Whether you should use the 2700k though depends on the price of a motherboard. For what you do even Core 2 Quads or AMD's Phenom 2 x6 can do the job more than well. These are all overclockable btw, but with FSB (front side bus) rather than clock multiplier. A bit different, but this is actually more complex than tweaking the multiplier so they make good practice machines. You need a P43/P45 mobo for C2Qs and Phenom 2 x6 needs a well-designed AM3 mobo.
 
Exceptions are black editions of Phenom 2 x6 Black editions. Their multiplier is unlocked as well so you can overclock just like current mainstream platform (though slightly pushing fsb is possible to get a few extra MHz, just like tweaking BCLK in modern systems fyi)
 
Do note that these chips are sold at the time when DDR3 is a new thing so some mobo support DDR2 while others use DDR3. Make sure you pair the right mobo with the right RAM.

I'd really suggest you get a SSD for overall better experience. A 250 GB should be more than enough. 

A monitor is generally a long term purchase, so I'd say it's worth the extra money. I won't buy a gaming monitor without GSync/FreeSync now that I've used it, it makes a massive difference. 
 
If you're planning on getting a 144Hz monitor anyway, I would spend the extra money and go for GSync. GPU upgrades can come later, the monitor will still be good when the time comes to upgrade. 
 
EDIT: This assuming you're not constantly running over 144Hz (or whatever your monitor's refresh rate is). GSync and FreeSync do nothing over when FPS is over the monitor's refresh rate. If you only play CS:GO or something where you're constantly over the monitor's refresh rate, GSync won't do anything. 

Mine does it too, welcome to Ryzen.

Gsync is fine. It's a techology that adapts your monitor's refresh rate to what game runs at. That way, you eliminate stuttering and tearing.
 
Let me tell you when it comes in usefull. You play a game. You run at 150 fps and then suddenly drop to 80. You'll exprience micro stutter. like a slight lag. With Gsync, that problem is eliminated. 
 
I recommend you to get a  144hz monitor with gsync only if you really care about that flawless fluidity.. otherwise get a normal one, lock the framerate to where you know your GPU would for sure run ABOVE it 100% of the time and you're good. so lock it to 120 if you know you'll run above that for sure. and you'll get silky smooth experience. you don't want a bunch of fluctiation. as stable as you can get your framerate to be, the better.

I'm talking about the bios' own personal profiles. It should allow you to save your overclock profile. I'm not talking about XMP. If you save your changes, if the bios ever reverts them, it's easy just to load your saved profile. I make a lot of changes to my timings, it saves me from having to remember everything.
Note: If you ever need to reset the CMOS, use the board jumpers or button if applicable. I believe removing the cmos battery will wipe any saved profiles. I also think updating the bios clears profiles. May be wise to save them to disk.
 
Here's an old screenshot showing my profile saving options. I make note of the date and what settings I'm using/trying.

 
Memtest86 should have an option to run All Cores in Parallel. I use a custom option as well, though. Press 'T' to select which tests you want to run and hit Enter to unselect all but number 6. Change number off passes to 10. Ten passes of ONLY #6 Test should take about 20 minutes. That's a very stressful test, but if it passes without errors, you know the ram overclock is stable.

a) its probable not formatted. search for partition manager in windows and try to format the hdd.
b) not sure.
c) not sure 
d) depends on which hardware has the LED's. usually the manufacturers website of that hardware will have software