salatji

After I finally got tired of all the spam messages that I should upgrade to paid version I uninstalled my antivirus since apparently windows defender is pretty much doing the same job anyways according to bunch of articles/videos, including one from LTT. Is there anything that I might have to pay any extra attention now that I got rid of that spammy programm?

Holy cow... I just realized that I can get 150€ for the 1050ti... °_°

Budget (including currency): €200ish, nothing too fancy Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: work Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): spare Ryzen 1600x, spare cpu cooler, spare fans, spare 1050ti, spare ssd I don't want to spend too much on this build. I am unsure if I could buy a 450 board for this intended build (idk if the 1600x would work on it) or if e.g. a ASRock A320M-DVS for like €30 is the better choice. For a PSU I've been thinking that a 300W or 400W (semi-)modular is probably enough. Case should be fairly compact since this will be exclusively used for office work (aka excel, ppt and zoom/teams meetings).

The headset came with a splitter for sound/mic to plug it in, so all I need is a cable that allows me to access the rear of my PC to plug those 2 in. Now I am a bit confused if I need just a regular 3.5mm cable (female to male) or if i need a special one since the cable is not just for audio, but for my microphone aswell.

No issues or problems with the IQ bios. Mostly I just want to have the same layout as the guides for overclocking that I am watching. Other issue I just ran into (and I should not blame the Bios on this one): I did the same settings he did to try initial OC (1.4V, 4200 mhz, LLC mode 4) and it was a fairly scary experience because my PC really didn'T seem to like those settings.

Hey, answer is probably yes and it's a stupid question, but I want to be better safe than sorry. I own a MSI X370 Gaming Pro and my current Bios is (apparently a beta version): 4.IQ Can I just download and install the latest listed (and i assume non-beta version) 4.G ? I would love to overclock my CPU, but I am a tiny bit worried because the Beta version looks so different compared (and has a lot more options to chose) to e.g. the guides der8auer made with MSI about OCing the 2700x.

I saw the 4.1/4.2 while playing EFT. now I see 3.9. Temp is a constant 65°, that's why I am a bit bothered. Guess I'll have to manually OC it.

A while back I bought a 2700x and replaced my 1600x. I planned to OC it a bit, but when running afterburner I noticed it was automatically boosting to 4.2ish GHz during gaming and that was fine with me so I didn't manually OC it. Recently I noticed some frame drops and after checking, I noticed that the CPU kinda caps at 3950, but I didn't change any settings. Can someone help me out here? Did an update disable the auto-OC or something? I am kinda clueless why it did stop to automatically boost above 4GHz.

Yeah, I found a german (?) reseller with like 99.5% postive reviews plus the post of his was tagged as "new", so I have (imo) a good shot in getting a new G303.

Maybe read my post and you'll understand why I am looking for a replacement. I might be lucky and found someone who sells new G303s for 50$ on ebay. He has good reviews so I am giving it a shot. Maybe I got lucky and get my fav. mouse back.

Hey there, to make it short: I am looking for a G303 replacement. The shape of the mouse was perfect for me. There are some offers of resellers online, but they are hella expensive or used and I am kinda not willing to shell out 130$ for the shroud special G303. Previously I used an Roccat Kone before I switched to a G303, but it looks like Roccat also overworked the Kone and the shape changed. So I am kinda in a dire spot for a (kinda small) & diamond shaped gaming mouse of a similar size of the G303.

Hey there, are there any recommended settings I should pay attention to when I am setting up a WLan Router (more or less as a hub/amplifier; TP Link TL-WR841N)) for my family? So far I pretty much only changed the standard admin login data & the wlan password. Usually that'd be it for settings I'd do, but the iPad of my mom warns me that there are issues with data protection and that the connection blocks encrypted DNS and that's not the case for other wlans in our house. I had to reset the router, so I guess something in the default settings is set up to be like this and I'd just have to change it. Any tips for specific things that I should keep an eye out for me as a newbie for setting up wlans for the family?

That's the tablet my sister ultimately went for. Time will tell if it was the right choice

what really surprised me though is that she voiced her concerns about the fire and the limitations to amazon's app store. So probably will suggest her the Tab S6

Yeah, the pen is kinda a seller for me aswell, I think she even found a similar one from Samsung herself. I just did tihnk about the Fire because it was dirt cheap and if all she really planned to use was netflix, video apps and kindle then it would've been plenty imo.

Yeah, that's the problem. I told her that she has to tell me what she wants. Finally got a (more or less) precise answer: Tablet, no apple, fairly cheap, if battery is bad, she'll just use a powerbank. So essentially the same criteria I already suggested her but it only took her 4 days to reach that conclusion... What she'll use it for: watching videos, reading ebooks. Edit: I am currently thinking about suggesting her the Fire HD8 or HD10 (for real budget) OR the Samsung Galaxy Tab S6 Lite.

Hey there, my sister asked me if I could look into eBook-reader or tablets that she could buy for herself. She's working as a nurse and has to work night shifts and sometimes has spare time to read during her shift. Initially I have been thinking about a Kindle (especially with black friday coming up) or some similar brand so she can read. However I know her habits and I think maybe a tablet might be a smarter idea since it's more flexible/usable for other things except reading. like watching videos at home or surfing in the web etc. My major concern here is however the battery. At work she might not be able to plug in the tablet, so she might run out of battery. Do you guys have some suggestions for tablets with a long battery lifetime (and kinda cheap(ish))?

For an exam I am required to use a webcam if I want to do it at home. However: The webcam I bought on Ebay is a scam and instead of the (on product) described 1080p it's closer to 240p. But the exam requires me to register myself/take proof of who I am by taking a picture of my ID & my face at the same time. I know the camera on my smartphone (A5 2017) is a lot better. Quick google and I know there are several Apps, that allow me to use it. I'd love to know what Apps you guys are using (if you're in the same situation). All of them have mixed reviews and I am a bit paranoid about downloading some crappy App that e.g. tries to steal all the data while installed/running...

Maybe try mounting it with the default bracket? Then again: 80° under load is ok,no?

shameless selfbump so I don't have to make a new thread.

Ryzen Masters is on Auto. Temps are fine, I even mentioned that in my post.

No. 60-80° would actually still be ok if you're in a game.

no. most likely a troll or someone who has no clue.

Hey there. I upgraded a while back from a 1600x to a 2700x. I didn't change much and also didn't manually overclock because the 2700x was autoboosting itself at around 4.2ish GHz and that's good enough for me. Lately I've been noticing weird stutters and did some checks, turns out my ryzen 2700x seems to have locked itself at 3.9 GHz when I was playing games. Before it was boosting above 4GHz. Temperatures and GPU shouldn't be problematic, the CPU sat (even when in game) at 55-60°C and the GPU utilization was around 60-70% when in game. The only thing I did change since I put the 2700x in my PC was that I added a crappy 720p monitor. Could this cause this weird "boost-lock"?

Hey, after a major fuckup, I need some help. My secondary drives are straight up removing everything from existence when I press delete or delete them. Is there a way where I can set it up so that it'll ask me if I really want to delete something?