Mistafishman

I went to Bandcamp to check the release date of an album that was announced and noticed that the text characters are changing depending on the zoom level. This is browser independent and happens on my desktop but not my laptop. Here's some examples: Anyone have any guesses on what's going on?

TLDR: My issue is I'll go from perfectly good speeds to nothing, then it comes back either randomly, after cycling WiFi in Windows, or bumping the antennas. The deats: WiFi Adapter: TP-Link Archer AC1200 (specs) ISP Service: 1 Gibby bit WiFi: Whatever mediocre modem/router combo provided (fiber cable goes directly into base) (Nokia G-240W-E) (WiFi 5 / 802.11 ac) Typical Speed on 5GHz band: ~125 Mbps Down, ~300 Mbps Up & ~1ms ping WiFi Card Firmware: Latest Windows 10 Update 20H2 Background: It was much slower before (single digits) but I changed the PCIe slot it was in as I was worried it was overheating from my GPU (that was directly below it) and that definitely boosted speeds. Now it just drops connection whenever it likes which happens to be pretty frequent (every 2/3 minutes). I disabled the "Allow the device to be turned off to save power" as I saw that on 90% of Google search results. I've tried other antennas with no obvious change. Not a single other device in the house experiences this type of issue. I'm kind of stumped... I hope it's a software issue as I'm pretty sure I've addressed most/all hardware issues. If only my roommates were fine with a 100' ethernet cable running through the house.

Thank you very much! I don’t know too much about networking and this was very informative!

I have a Gigabit Up and Down plan in my apartment and get usually at least 800 Up and Down when wired into the wall our router which is more than fast enough for me. I’m confused that my WiFi speeds on my phone and laptop are not that fast (comparatively). I get ~80 Down and ~170 Up. I have an iPhone 12 and a cheaper (~$70) TP-Link router. I get roughly the same speeds on my Dell XPS. I’m on a 5GHz channel using WiFi 5 (802.11ac) since it doesn’t support WiFi 6. The router has 3 antennas. I use Ookla to test my speeds. I thought that WiFi 5 would have higher throughput even with bottlenecks that most connections inevitably have. If anyone is more knowledgeable about this I would love to know. PS, I have gotten the same results on various different firmware updates on the router and OS updates on my devices.

So I know I the iPhone 8 (my device) is capable of up to 7.5W wireless charging after an update a while ago but am confused. I have an Anker wireless pad that claims it can do 10W. Does the pad need a special 7.5W mode or should that not matter? Also, I tried to determine what speed my device is charging via an app. Plugged into the stock 5W adapter it said ~1900mA. This doesn’t make sense though because I thought USB was 5V and if it’s reporting accurately I somehow charged at ~9W which shouldn’t be possible over Wireless (I thought) or from the brick. I tried again on an Anker 24W Brick (2x 12W ports, 1 brick) and it showed ~1,800mA. I’m guessing this app is just horribly off or is there something going on I’m not aware of? It’s not an issue but would love to know the science behind it. (FYI, I understand that wireless charging happens via induction between 2 coils but that’s about it, I don’t know the iPhone specifics) Nitty Gritty: iPhone 8 in the ballpark of 25% battery 5V by 1A Apple Brick 2x 5V by 2.4A Anker PowerPort Elite Black 10W Anker PowerPort Wireless 10 App: Ampere - Charger Testing

I'll give that a try, thanks.

I am working with HitFilm, since I don't have the money for more premium software. I have considered saving up for a cheaper program like Filmora (what a friend reccomended). At the same time I edited a little with HitFilm in the past. My issue is scrubbing is laggy and when I try to play back the video in the editor, I only hear audio and don't see video for ~2 secs between tracks. I will give as many details as I can think of below. PC Specs: CPU: Skylake i5-6500 (4 core, 4 thread, 3.2GHz Base, 3.6GHz Boost) (More than appropriate cooler for locked chip (Cryorig H7)) RAM: 16GB 2133MHz HyperX Fury MOBO: ASRock H170M Pro4s GPU: MSI 1060 6GB OCV1 OS: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit OS Drive: ADATA Premier SP550 Sata SSD Drive where files are stored: ADATA XPG SX6000 128GB NVMe SSD All Drivers and BIOS are up to date Everything is running nice and cool PSU is more than sufficient HitFilm Info: Version: 12.2.8707.7201 Video Format: 1920x1080p@60fps (constant framerate, h.264 NVENC .mp4 from Quicktime .MOV use Handbrake, avg. video bitrate: 20,000kbps - Based on what I've seen recommed online) Cache: On WD Blue Sata SSD RAM Preview Max Usage: 12237MB Playback Quality: Fastest Paused Resolution: 1/2 Paused Quality: Fastest Track Preview Mode: Start/End "Use Hardware Decoding if Available" is Enabled Not that I think these are relevant but here's my render settings: Default Antialiasing Mode: 8xQ CSAA Default Reflection Map Size: 512 pixels Default Shadow Map Size: 2048 pixels Maxium 3D Models Map Size: 4096 pixels My CPU on all cores jumps up to 100% while scrubbing, CPU anywhere between 75% to 90% during playback (on all cores), GPU 3D reports a sustained 30% during playback, GPU Video Decode reports spiking up and down from ~5% to ~100%, I'm seeing next to 0% disc activity, RAM is within provided threshold. I know this is a ton of info to sift through but I provided it to try tro cover all bases. I would really like to be able to use this software because I am half way through this project but it is almost unusable now and I would love any help I can get.

My bad, I read a little too quickly and though you meant the mouse when I saw rolling, my brain connecting that to scrolling and the mouse in general, plus the noise is similar in the video. That is deniately a odd issue an likely is some type of coil whine, best of luck my friend.

TL;DR: I get good frames (~95fps) w/out V-Sync and just below 60fps with V-Sync and V-Sync is adding tearing diagonally. For my system, I’m using a Dell XPS 15 9575 2in1. It has a 1080p screen, 4 core 8 thread Intel Core i5-8305G @ 2.80Ghz base clock, 8GB 2400MHz, 500GB Samsung 970 Evo NVMe SSD (upgraded component), and Radeon RX Vega M GL graphics. I'm running Windows 10 Home 64 Bit. I have the latest BIOS. My screen shows that the refresh rate is 60Hz in some apps and 59Hz in another. Since it has switchable graphics I had to specify that it is a “High Performance” application in Windows Graphics Settings, and all Power Modes are maxed for performance (plugged in too).I have pictures of details. So I am not sure why I get bad frames and Diagonal Tearing when using Minecraft's V-Sync and my Vega Graphics Global Settings are set to "Off unless specified by application". It doesn't matter hat resource pack I use, video settings, anything. The only way I get a mostly smooth image is by letting the GPU spit out as many frames as possible, usually around 95fps/100fps with dips down to 85fps. I made sure everything is up do date before posting this too, BIOS, Windows, Intel CPU Drivers, AMD Vega Graphics Drivers, Java, and yes, I have rebooted, many times. My guess is the misleading screen refresh rate (59Hz/60Hz) but am not sure what I can do about that.

So I have had a situation like this before and maybe it could be what I had. I noticed a noise like in the video you played when moving my mouse and it was very noticeable while doing CAD work. I would hear it through my speakers and when I plugged in headphones. Turns out it was noise from the input signal of the mouse and the suboptimal or lack of shielding of the audio circuit on the motherboard. You can fix this by upgrading to a better motherboard which, unless you were planning on upgrading is annoying and costly, OR you can get an internal soundcard, OR you can get a USB audio device (my personal recommendation). With the audio being converted from digital to analog (DAC: Digital to Analog Converter) outside of the motherboard, it is less susceptible to noise since any wire in a circuit can act like an antenna to a degree. You can get something cheap ($10) that does headphones out and mic in that does the job fine, or you can go a step further and get a Audiophile grade DAC/Amp combo or stack which would be more like ($75+). Here’s one I’ve personally used for ~$12: amzn.to/36 Here’s one I personally use daily ~$99: amzn.to/2RrWEb0 Here’s an alternative to the one above ~$109: amzn.to/2NYqlOO

From my experience using 1.1.1.1 over the last week and a half, Warp significantly hurts my phone’s internet performance (iPhone ? although I haven’t seen any issues hardware wise. I still use it as a “VPN” profile for DNS benefits which I do feel are better than without. I would rank the performance as follows: 1.1.1.1 Warp < Default < 1.1.1.1 DNS You can change whether you’re using Warp or the basic DNS “VPN” Profile in the settings of the 1.1.1.1 app, if you still notice poor performance just delete it. The internet responsiveness gain is not extremely noticeable IMO anyways. Hope I could help in anyway...

That's true, these aren't budget drives though. I'm saying that you get a higher performance tier for less. Some of the drives that sell on sites like Newegg for ~$40 are "Grey Market" and their warranties are not always guaranteed. Edit: I misread your reply and it difinately looks like something is up on WD's site.

I just checked and on WD's website, this deal also exists between these models for the 6TB variants.

So I was looking to replace my 1TB WD Blue 7200rpm drive because it's beginning to be close to full and now it's clicking (~3 years old). I was thinking about getting a WD Black for (hopefully) more longevity out of the drive when I stumbled upon Tally Ho Tech's video (link below) on WD Gold drives which I watched because I was curious. They have twice as much cache as the Black, as well as 10x the rated load per year (~550TB per year (Gold)). On Western Digital's site, at least the 2TB models because that's what I was looking for, the WD Gold was CHEAPER than the WD Black! It was $110.99 for the Gold and $112.99 for the Black (-10% with a discount through the Honey extension). I just thought I would bring this to attention for anyone looking for a drive in this sort of range because it's a good deal. Tally Ho Tech's Video: https://youtu.be/ECQO6gTUnAc WD Black: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/internal-drives/wd-black-desktop-sata-hdd#WD2003FZEX WD Gold: https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/internal-drives/wd-gold-sata-hdd#WD2005FBYZ

So I have been curious about what charging speeds are supported by the iPhone. I know that in order to “Fast Charge” the iPhone you need a Lightning to USB-C cable and a power brick that supports USB-PD. What I’m curious about is what is the maximum charging speed allowed for a standard USB-A connection. I have an Anker 24W, 2 Port USB-A charger. Does this mean if I have one iPhone plugged in, it will charge at 5V 4.8A or it will charge at 5V 2.4A and the 24W is just so that it can power 2 devices at 5V 2.4A? I also heard about how some Android devices use 12V for “Fast Charging” and would this charger support that? It had PowerIQ but I’m not sure what that does for me. Any info is appreciated ?