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Joe Schmo

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  1. I don't know anything about photo or video editing. My wife though has it as serious enough hobby over the years that she received her first commission work. She's also been using this 5 year old, 17", 5lb+, integrated graphics card laptop. Mostly she's been using her Galaxy Note 8 and now S20 with some app to film and edit. She has a Sony A6000, but hasn't really used it as she doesn't have any editing software other than the phone. Looking for recommendations for a laptop for entry level photo and video editing, and can play the Sims4 level of games as a side goal. I've been told this is the editing software I need: https://helpx.adobe.com/premiere-pro/system-requirements.html and based on that I've found some $1000 range laptops. This is a cheaper software, non-subscription: https://affinity.serif.com/en-us/ And this really highlights the issue I'm having with these tech and blog sites acting like everyone wants to go full-bore on something right out the gate. I'm unsure what quality of a display is needed though, obviously the better resolution I can get the better, and I want to avoid backlight bleed. When it comes to colors and contrast, I'm lost. Not sure where I can cut corners on this either. She'd not doing this all day, and moving up from a phone. A lot of blogs I saw were in the $$$$ range or big 'ol desktop replacements. She likes my work issued 15" MacBook Pro's size. Cheaper the better. I'm fine with dropping $1200, but she's asked me to return high dollar items before So the lower price, the less likely that occurs!
  2. I don't have another CPU or MOBO. After talking with tech support of both companies, I'm RMAing the CPU Great time to be without my rig, during a quarantine...
  3. I got it to power on but it just kicks on all fans on full blast, a red cpu light is all that's on the Mobo, not posting to monitor, and I have to flip the switch on the power supply to turn it off. Is this cpu or Mobo bricked now?
  4. No, I checked rows through a light both ways, nothing bent
  5. I removed the cooler and processor. Unfortunately the cooler was stuck to the processor and it yanked it off the board somehow! Everything looked ok so I redid the thermal paste and put it back on. But now it won't power up at all! Not sure what to do here...
  6. I just used the pre-applied thermal paste. Screwed it down snug. If I'm going to redo it, I might as well upgrade the air cooler and thermal paste. Any recommendation? I haven't looked at coolers and paste in 5 years.
  7. I've only ever had Intel before. Upgrade my last one, I5 Gen3, with a better aircooler and got about 65C when gaming. This Ryzen 3600 on a MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max with stock cooler is hitting the 90's while running Folding at Home or DOOM. I've always heard Ryzen runs hot but this seems to be pushing the 95C limit a little close right?
  8. Did some more research and it appears I needed something with some more power. Hot swapping looked to be the next tech up. Bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BD8I3EI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is about double the price and thought would be overkill. Has been working like a champ over the last few hours though.
  9. Nothing that stands out. Nothing at all under hardware. I'm really leaning toward needing a "hot swap" switch. Thoughts on if I'm missing some tech? Like, maybe a mechanical keyboard and gaming mouse are too much for this price points tech?
  10. This has happened on my 7 year old Intel build and on my new AMD build. Current motherboard: MSI b450 gaming plus max. Drivers and BIOS are latest from their site. Keyboard: Razer blackwidow stealth 2016 Mouse: Steel Series Sensie OS: Windows 10 When I plug my mouse and keyboard into my pc directly, everything works fine. When I plug them into either of the usb switch hubs I have, there are issues that occur at random: Cursor is jerky Cursor stops moving. Mouse is still lit. Have to unplug and replug in. Keyboard will stop typing for a few seconds Keyboard will spam last key hit Keyboard is still lit These issues are only on my Windows 10 gaming rig. They do not occur when I switch to my work MacBook. I've verified drivers and bios are up to date. USB selective suspend setting is off. Device Manager Power Management is set to not allow the computer to turn off the device to save power. I've replaced all cables. Extra usb micro power is plugged in. Tried different ports. USB hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DKD7JHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 other USB hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TS5JNT3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not sure what other configs to look at? Am I trying to use the wrong type of swtich?
  11. Probably going with CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 Gaming Plus MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($81.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB ($87.99 @ Amazon) From my original proposal this changes the RAM speed from 3200 to 3600 and drops the amount from 16 GB to 32 GB. I assume that speed is just better for gaming than the amount? Everyone went this route, can anyone explain why? I've always used Intel up to this point and just never thought about needing to redo everything (OS, drivers, etc) because I'm switching to AMD. So I'll be getting the upgraded storage and using the current SSD as my backup. It'll be replacing an ancient 500GB drive. I'll have 1 TB between the two, which with everything I've ever kept stored / installed is more than enough. I'm hesitant to move away from a Samsung drive because they get the highest reviews in reliability. I place a high value on this as I plan to keep parts for at least 5 years. If I go with the 970 Plus instead I get about 30% faster write speed, but I really just don't write to my drives unless it's a patch for a game or an install. In both these cases my internet is for sure the bottleneck at 30Mbps (I have to move to get faster). I've only written 7TB to my current drive in the last year. So is the extra write speed really worth it?
  12. I'm fine saving $10 for the Tomahawk, nothing extra I know of that I need. If it's within a second, I'll keep the OS on the current drive and save the m.2 for games. Is there any reason to reinstall Windows? I know it used to have to be reinstalled every so often due to errors.
  13. If it's not worthwhile to put the OS on an NVMe and just have it for games, I'd rather delay the purchase. Seem like I'd just put games on it from these posts so far? Not familiar with ADATA brand, or how to rate harddrives. I assume this is a good brand/model? I don't overclock and I don't need the best. Really just need something that will last on medium to High settings for most games for 5 years as best as can be future proofed. Gathering I just need the Ryzen 5 3600 instead of the 3600X if that's the case? I'm fine with dropping down to 16gb if 32 isn't needed. The more I save, the faster I can get into VR. But I don't want to compromise too much as I do plan to keep these parts for 5 years. Also, from some videos I looks like the new Ryzen doesn't need additional cooling? I'm so used to AMD running molten hot!
  14. I've mostly built franken-computers from other people's spare parts. About 7 years ago one of my friends got fed up with my "lack of performance" and bought me a desktop (choose good friends y'all). I've since graduated, have a job, but also student debt Since then I've only upgraded the harddrive and the GPU. Having crashes in games like SC2 (lots of units), Overwatch (utls and bloom), and Darksouls Remastered (camera shifting while loading new area like on elevator). I have an RTX2070 so I'm certain that's not a bottleneck. Also, running multiple programs at once just feels bad. Outside of a game and Discord it's starting to feel slow. I've a feeling it's the CPU and RAM. Budget: ~$500 US, but cheaper is better AIM: Cyberpunk 2077 and VR for Half-life Alyx Current parts with asterisks next to keeping: mobo: Intel DZ77BH-55K CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K Ivy Bridge RAM: 16gb DDR3 665MHz harddrives: Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500gb (maybe *) *graphics card: RTX 2070 *monitor: Acer Predator 27in 1440p *power supply: SeaSonic 650w *peripherals: razor black widow, Steel series Sensei, Steal Series Arctis3 *case: Corsair noise cancelling black Proposed replacements parts: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 $189.99 https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-3600-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B07STGGQ18?tag=linus21-20 MOBO: MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max $104.99 https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Performance-Gaming-Crossfire-Motherboard/dp/B07XHH4YG4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=MSI+B450+GAMING+PLUS+MAX&qid=1577058284&sr=8-1 RAM: G.Skill 32GB DDR4 3200MHz $129.99 https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-Ripjaws-PC4-25600-Platform-F4-3200C16D-32GVK/dp/B0171GQR0C/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ddr4+3200+32g&qid=1577059811&sr=8-6 Harddrive (maybe): Samsung 970 EVO 500GB $87.99 https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=sxin_1_ac_d_pm?ac_md=2-0-VW5kZXIgJDEwMA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=samsung+m.2&keywords=samsung+m.2&pd_rd_i=B07BN4NJ2J&pd_rd_r=ea68d445-f98e-499e-bd11-7d97783d431e&pd_rd_w=yWQqj&pd_rd_wg=FE8pE&pf_rd_p=ef07af27-e48f-451d-ab63-8b6b216a0bc3&pf_rd_r=2QHGXZP1WT1JGD8G7TYY&psc=1&qid=1579299170 total before tax: ~$513 Harddrive may not fit in budget this go around. If I do replace I'll keep the current for extra storage. I play a decent amount of games that don't need the latest and greatest. Not really sure if needed for performance. Also, I've not reinstalled Windows in forever. The current installation is from a Windows 7 Ultimate, upgraded to Windows 10, and transferred to the new HD. What am I asking help on: I'm not confident in parts shopping, more used to getting what I get. So I don't really know what I need for the aims or what is a good deal. I don't plan on upgrading these parts for another 5 years. Basing this list off some LTT videos.
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