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itsTrickAF

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States

System

  • CPU
    i7- 6700k @ 4.6GHz
  • Motherboard
    Aorus Z270X-Gaming 5
  • RAM
    32 GB Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3200
  • GPU
    Aorus GTX 1080
  • Case
    Aorus AC300W
  • Storage
    Samsung 860 Evo 250GB (Boot Drive), Adata SU800 512 GB, Teamgroup CX 1TB, Seagate External 8TB
  • PSU
    650W Corsair VS650
  • Display(s)
    MSI Optix MAG341CQ 34" (3440x1440/100Hz/G-SYNC), Naxa 43" (4k/60Hz)
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L V2
  • Keyboard
    Red Dragon K555 INDRAH
  • Mouse
    Razer Basilisk Ultimate
  • Sound
    Corsair HS70 Pro Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    Dell XPS 13 2-in-1
  • Phone
    iPhone 12 Pro Max

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itsTrickAF's Achievements

  1. Hi guys, I just picked up an i7-12700k to upgrade my computer for the first time since 2016. I saw that DDR5 is out now, but Intel motherboards for the recent generations still have DDR4-supported versions. I've been watching videos and reading about it, and it seems to me that it wouldn't be too bad to just carry over my 32 GB of 3200 MT/s CL16 DDR4. Am I wrong in thinking this? Would sticking with DDR4 hinder me in any significant way? DDR5 doesn't seem super expensive, so I wouldn't mind buying it. I'm just not sure if it's necessary given that I already have a supported memory kit, and am looking for other's opinions. Thanks for the help/suggestions in advance.
  2. I purchased an Xbox One X and hooked it up to my TV. My TV has 4 hdmi ports and is cable of 4K. The PC that was hooked up to the TV ran the 4K mode just fine, and the PS4 PRO that was on it had no issues either. The Xbox seemed to be outputting to the display just fine but as soon as I swapped that hdmi port to EDID 2.0 so that I could run 4K, my TV started showing green lines and dots all over the screen. I tried swapping cables and ports but it didn’t seem to help any. When I swapped back to my PC, my main monitor started flashing constantly and the TV was stuck at a blue screen (I’m thinking the flashing is from windows constantly connecting and then losing connection to the tv possibly?). I reset the TV settings and both the Xbox and the PC seem to work in EDID 1.4 at 1080p 60hz but as soon as I swap to EDID 2.0 for 4K 60hz, it gets stuck at a blue screen and makes makes my other monitor flash for the PC, or it flashes between a blue screen and the Xbox dashboard with green lines for the Xbox. Is my TV just broken now? tldr; My 4K TV won’t do 4K anymore and idk if it’s fixable
  3. Hey guys, Destiny 2 just moved over to Steam from Battle.net and I'm having trouble getting my controller vibration to work when I'm connected wireless. I'm using an Xbox One Elite controller with the official Xbox One wireless adapter and it worked seamlessly on Battle.net; however, ever since swapping to Steam, the controller vibration only works when I am plugged in through USB. The controller vibration is checked on in game (as it works wired), and I tried using the Steam Big Picture Mode controller settings to set "rumble preference" to "on." The big picture mode settings did not help and actually made things worse because my right joystick constantly swapped to a cursor in the menus. Has anyone else had this problem/know how to fix it?
  4. Before today, I was running 16GB (2x8) of Corsair Vengeance LED 3200MHz. A few days ago, I found a good deal on 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 MHz and ordered them. Both sets are C16 with the exact same timings so even though they aren't the exact same kits I thought it would operate fine; however, after installing them XMP is no longer working and all the sticks have slowed down to 2133MHz. Is there any way to fix this and get them all running at 3200MHz?
  5. Looks like NVENC is active. I will try your other suggestions for quality and format and update the post. What bitrate would you recommend that I try lowering to?
  6. I have not yet tried OBS or Shadowplay. I have an AVerMedia Live Gamer 4K streaming card that recommended going through RECentral, that worked fine for capturing my Nintendo Switch and PS4 gameplay, so I haven't yet bothered with any other programs. Both streaming and recording quality are 1920x1080@60p I don't fully understand the next three but: NVIDIA hardware encoding is active (other option is H.264) Video bitrate is 3.5 Mbps Format is H.264 (only option)
  7. I haven't tried that route yet. When I stopped recording and found the same usage results with nothing maxed out I started thinking that the storage device wasn't the main issue. I will try recording on an ssd when I get a moment though and update with those results.
  8. So I've recently started trying to stream some gameplay. I'm using RECentral 4 for the recording + streaming and the game I'm currently working with is League of Legends. Typically, I can get around 300fps playing the game at 1440p high settings and I understand that streaming and recording on the same machine that I'm playing on is going to reduce performance, but I don't full understand what is causing that. When I start streaming my fps drops to about 200fps and when I record at the same time my fps drops even further to about 120fps; however, as far as I can tell from my hardware monitors: My RAM usage is at about 11GB/16GB My CPU (i7-6700k) usage is not at 100% on any of the cores MY GPU (GTX 1080) usage is at about 55% So my question is, what is causing the slow down in performance? None of the suspects I would assume are maxed out so I'm not sure if I'm missing a variable and what that might be. I'm recording to an external hard drive through usb 3.0 so I thought that might be an issue but even just streaming without recording the gameplay I still have roughly the same usages across the other variables. Can someone explain what exactly is happening here? Also, I am on Windows 10 and my OS, game, and recording software are all on a 240GB Patriot Blaze SSD
  9. How did you figure out the max supported frequency?
  10. It's still a solid laptop though. i7-2670QM that runs at 3.1GHz, full 4-core 8-thread processor 17.3in 1600x900p display Blu-ray drive Fingerprint Reader 3 Front-facing speakers and a subwoofer 1TB Hard Drive 250GB Samsung 860 EVO ($56) that I just threw in it so it's pretty snappy I don't see any reason to get a new laptop when it just needs a RAM upgrade. ~$150 for the SSD and RAM is worth it to revive a $900 laptop.
  11. @Streetguru @suchamoneypit This laptop is ~8 years old now. I'm not entirely positive if it will even support the higher speed RAM. If their performance will be roughly identical, should I take the one with lower speed as well as lower latency just in case the one with higher speed down-clocks anyways so that I don't get stuck with higher latency?
  12. More than double, actually. There's currently only 4GB of DDR3 1333mhz in there right now, so I'm going to bump it up to 16GB. Both of these kits are listed at $95 on newegg but other than the frequency I have no clue what the other numbers meant.
  13. Hey guys, I'm looking at upgrading the RAM in my laptop but I have no idea what the different numbers mean. Could someone help me out? For the exact same price, I'm seeing: DDR3 1866 PC3L 14900 CAS Latency 11 DDR3 1600 PC3L 12800 CAS Latency 9 What do all these differences mean? Which one's better?
  14. Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my old laptop from 2011. It's an HP Pavilion dv7 with an i7-2670QM and 8GB of ddr3 1333mhz RAM. I'm currently running with a 640GB 5400RPM HDD, and I'm looking at either getting an 240GB ADATA SU650 or a 250GB Samsung 860 EVO. While the benchmarks I've seen show that the Samsung drive has much faster performance, I'm wondering whether or not I'll notice any real world difference between these SSD's on an older machine such as this. It's also possible that I'll move whichever drive I choose into a future laptop, so is there a noticeable difference in these drives on modern machines? Because if so, that might come into play for me later. Basically ---> The SU650 is currently $43 and the 860 EVO is $56. Is the $13 price difference worth it? Thank you!
  15. Hey guys, I'm a 1st year college student majoring in Computer Engineering, and I'm looking to pick up a simple laptop for coding in a couple of my classes. Because I'm coding for arduino boards, and from what I understand Chromebooks are supported for this, I've taken a look at my budget options, as I don't need the device to do anything else. For roughly ~$160 I can either get a: HP Chromebook - 14in 1366x768p with a touch screen, 4 GB RAM, and 32 GB storage OR Acer Chromebook - 15.6in 1366x768p without a touch screen, 4GB RAM, and 16GB storage For coding specifically, I'm not sure if I'd be better off with a touch screen so that I can easily scroll up and down code. I don't even know if that would be a useful feature because my experience with coding is minimal. If the larger screen would be better, then I'll go with that one. And, I'm not too worried about the storage difference because I have a 64GB microsd card to stick in whichever Chromebook I decide on, and obviously most items will be on cloud storage anyways. Please let me know what option you think I should go with. Thank you!
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