Tabs

Now that I've included that information on what you need to do to fix this, I'd like to answer one of your main questions from your post.
 
The reason this happened is that you installed Windows when there was already a disk installed in the machine set as a "system" drive, with an EFI partition. Windows will automatically use the same bootloader if another install is already present, meaning that you're stuck now with your hard drive containing your boot order.
 
If your hard drive dies or is removed, your SSD will become unbootable without being regenerated, which is hard to do when the system is already configured like this.
 
To prevent this in future, remove any non-data partitions from the drives you do NOT want windows on. This happened because Windows detected the EFI partition on Disk 2 during install, and used that as it's default boot configuration data store.
 
 
In your case, reinstalling and sorting this issue permanently would involve doing the following steps now:
 
1. Boot the windows installer as you did previously (either dvd or usb, whichever is easier for you).
2. When you get to the partition selection page, delete the EFI system partition on the 3TB disk listed as "Disk 2" in your above screenshot. Be careful not to delete the data partition on that disk, only the EFI partition which is 100MB in size.
3. Erase all partitions off the 500GB SSD so that it shows nothing but "unallocated space".
4. Try to create a partition on the 500gb SSD covering the whole drive. You should get a message saying windows will make extra partitions to function properly. Confirm this message, and then ensure that the EFI system partition, possibly a "recovery" partition, and the partition you just tried to create are all on the same 500GB ssd.
 
At this point, as long as all of those are on the same drive, you can select your newly created large partition and hit next.
 
That'll prevent this being an issue in future, and for future installs of Windows.
 

Unless you're super heavily overclocking your gpu, it really shouldn't make a difference. From the PSU side of things, the power is all being generated on one rail anyway (as long as it's a relatively modern psu, atx 2.3+), so you won't gain any efficiency benefits. The Y split means you'll be pulling more current over one set of cables, but so long as they aren't super thin 20 gauge cables they will still be able to supply up to ~280W without any noticeable heat. 18AWG is the standard on most modern supplies, with 16AWG being used for super heavy duty applications.
 
Just looked up your psu. It uses 18AWG for the pcie cables, so your 1080 is going to be comfortably well below the stressing factor of the cable, even with all current over one set. They won't even get warm. If your card uses a 6 pin and an 8 pin, then the max it's ever going to look to draw from pcie power is 225W, and that is way above what a 1080 will ever draw without heavy overclocking.
 
Obviously the best situation would be to use two separate set of cables to split the current draw and make heat a complete non-issue even if you had shitty 20AWG cabling, but then you have to think about whether routing another set of cables will have any impact on airflow. That'll have more impact on performance than having current over two sets of pcie cables.

Windows will probably complain about activation after you replace the motherboard and cpu.
 
Contrary to popular belief though, it's 100% fine to transplant your hard disk/ssd with your current install into a new machine (so long as it's win7+) - you just have to do it properly. 
Before you finish using your current setup for the last time, shut it down using this command:
Sysprep /generalize /shutdown /oobe  
That will remove all system-specific drivers so that when the disk is transplanted, windows configures itself properly for the new hardware. Make sure the disk isn't booted again until after the transplant is done though, since the first boot after generalizing can take a few minutes, and you'd have to shut it down again using the sysprep command above.

That might be the only option here - As @Himommies stated, the pocket edition, console edition and Windows 10 (uwp) edition can all interplay as they are effectively the same c++ code on different platforms. The java edition is completely different, and no interplay is possible between java and the other 3 editions.

I have a super basic TP-Link switch too, it's been 100% reliable except for once where it locked up during a very very short power outage, which is completely fair in my opinion.
 
Let me know when you get that info, I may not be monitoring this thread but feel free to PM me and I'll get a notification. Hopefully it wont take much work to get this sorted, redoing the wiring so everything except internet traffic is routed through the switch could be a good idea.
 
If you get the chance, make sure that any kind of ingress/egress prioritisation, traffic shaping or QoS settings on your router are disabled; same with jumbo frames. Many ISP provided routers don't handle that kind of stuff well.

i have the same model,  Intel I219-V.
 
Dropping issue takes sometime, its not immediate. 

Does this affect all devices on your network or just your own pc? 
 
Are Plex or your video files hosted on your PC or another device on your network?

It sounds like you may have a misbehaving explorer shell extension.
 
Two utilities you can use to manage them are Autoruns from Microsoft Sysinternals, or ShellExView from Nirsoft. Autoruns does a lot more than just manage shell extensions, so be careful if you use it.

You shouldn't need to enable "resume from USB Device" to enable devices to charge when the machine is off - this is a standard feature provided by modern motherboards and the power supply's +5v standby rail.
 
But, yes, there should be an option to select/deselect individual devices in the bios (grouped into keyboards and mice), or alternatively if you run Windows, you can disable it on a per-device basis by right clicking it on Device Manager, select properties, then go to the "power management" tab and uncheck the box stating "allow this device to wake the computer". 
 
Do that on any device you don't want to wake up the machine.

There aren't any moving parts in a regular Sata SSD; it's just a different size/shape and is hooked up using standard SATA cables instead of being directly plugged into the motherboard like a memory module or GPU would.
 
Are you thinking about "solid state hard drives", which are just hard disks with a small solid state cache? Those I would stay away from, since they don't offer any real performance improvement compared to a standard hard drive, but it has more potential modes of failure. If the cache fails in one of those, but the disk part itself is fine, you still risk losing all your data.

As others have said, the longevity in terms of bytes written should be almost identical between the two, if they have the same type/capacity of NAND onboard.
 
It's worth remembering however that sata interface drives are limited by the interface at about 600MB/s maximum, but m.2 can reach (and sometimes exceed) 3GB/s. Even though they may be able to handle the same amount of total writes, you may find that the m.2 drive has a lower lifespan simply because you can write a lot more data to it faster.
 
For the same amount of writes over the same timeframe, you should notice no difference between the two. Check the manufacturers write endurance to be able to compare different drives.

If your power plan is set to "High Performance", your cpu will be at its full turbo frequency all the time. 
 
Set the power plan to balanced (or manually change the power/frequency settings for the High Performance plan) and you'll be able to get your cpu back to idling properly.
 
If you're on Balanced/low power plan and it still isn't doing it, check you have speed boost and/or speed shift enabled in your motherboard bios.

It sounds like you installed Windows onto the SSD while the hard drive was still connected as the primary boot device.
 
Is that correct?
 
If that's the case, the reason your machine isn't booting is that your actual boot loader is located on your hard drive (the BCD store), but your Windows install is on the SSD. You can try to repair your installation by booting from your Windows install media and trying to do a repair, but I've heard that this doesn't always work anymore. Recreating/replacing a completely missing BCD is harder than repairing a corrupted one.
 
The only guaranteed solution I know of is to reinstall Windows on the drive when it's the only drive installed on the system (or the drive is the primary boot device at the time). That'll ensure that the boot and system partitions are both created on the SSD and it'll operate fine by itself. Right now your machine is relying on the boot loader located on the hard drive to boot the windows install on the SSD.

It sounds like you installed Windows onto the SSD while the hard drive was still connected as the primary boot device.
 
Is that correct?
 
If that's the case, the reason your machine isn't booting is that your actual boot loader is located on your hard drive (the BCD store), but your Windows install is on the SSD. You can try to repair your installation by booting from your Windows install media and trying to do a repair, but I've heard that this doesn't always work anymore. Recreating/replacing a completely missing BCD is harder than repairing a corrupted one.
 
The only guaranteed solution I know of is to reinstall Windows on the drive when it's the only drive installed on the system (or the drive is the primary boot device at the time). That'll ensure that the boot and system partitions are both created on the SSD and it'll operate fine by itself. Right now your machine is relying on the boot loader located on the hard drive to boot the windows install on the SSD.

The problem with layer 7 attacks is that legitimate traffic is also layer 7. It takes a lot of engineering effort and network configuration chops to be able to discern the difference for a sophisticated attack using Layer 7.
 
If it were just a flood of syn/acks or something it'll be blocked easily by cloudflare, that just becomes a case of bandwidth at that point. Layer 7 is more difficult because you don't want to be overzealous and block legitimate traffic as well.

What upload speed is your connection actually supposed to provide?
 
In order to be able to download at 18mbit, you need to have at least ~384kbps upload speed.  That's the minimum upload speed to be able to sustain that download speed level of acknowledgements. 
 
What performance do you get if you run a speed test like https://fast.com/ and https://speedtest.net/

@Tiwaz
 
Thanks for that. Your "non paged pool" is very high, indicating a driver on your system is misbehaving, as @M.Yurizaki said.
 
It should be no higher than a few hundred MB at most, but on your system it's using 11.5GB of your memory space.
 
I have attached a file to this post called poolmon.exe. Poolmon is a Microsoft utility designed to find faults with drivers and to find more information out about how they use resources. Normally, you'd need to download the WDK to get this, but it's only a 28KB utility and the WDK is a more than 1.5GB download, so I have attached it here for convenience. If you prefer to get it using the WDK, follow the link I posted above.
 
Once you have poolmon.exe downloaded (either via the one attached to this post, or through the WDK), open a PowerShell window in the folder where it's contained by shift+right-clicking in the same folder and selecting "open PowerShell window here". Then type: ".\poolmon.exe -b -p" without the quotes; it should show you something like the picture below.
 

 
Once you have that, screenshot it and attach it to the thread so I can analyse it for you.
poolmon.exe

Short answer is no, unfortunately. One of the pins on a 6-pin connector is for ground sense, and two of the pins on an 8-pin connector are ground sense. If all sense lines aren't detected then the card won't POST.
 
Your PSU is theoretically capable of powering both cards so long as your load is low, but it's a dangerous situation to be in - if load spikes across both cards it could trigger OCP. That's unlikely however. Only being designed with one 6-pin connector means it may not be built internally for that amount of potential current to slow over the connector/cable. Be careful.
 
Does your motherboard have integrated DisplayPort? The built-in Intel GPU can power a 3440x1440 panel at 60Hz no problem. Actually, there's no reason your 750Ti can't either, you just have to make sure you don't use HDMI.

You'll want to reduce the uncore voltage of your cpu (uncore is the part of the cpu that is "everything not a core", so things like pci express controller, memory controller, etc) to reduce your IMC heat generation; the ram voltage only determines how much voltage is used to power your ram modules themselves.
 
This is assuming you're referring to the i5-7600K listed in your signature; some earlier intel chips had memory voltage routed via the IMC, but that isn't the case any more.
 
However, worth noting that the amount of heat generated by the memory controller is very low compared to the actual cores, so even a large reduction in voltage isn't likely to reduce your overall heat generation. IF your CPU is running  a lot hotter than you'd like, you'd be better served trying to reduce your core voltage, but that might not be possible in your case as you have a very aggressive overclock in place.

Oh, gotcha, I'll check everything I launch instead. And I'll check out MsMPEng.exe when I get back to my PC. Thanks for letting me know the other process was just the UI! I'll also check out ProcMon. Thanks!

Well I'll be damned, that was the solution all along. It turns out I did turn off microphone access... Probably out of my paranoia of Microsoft collecting voice data. Thank you so much!  

It's a long shot since 1803 has been out for almost 6 months now, but have you had a chance to look in settings > privacy > microphone to see if microphone access is enabled for your system?
 
 

I just clicked this in the sidebar - thought it was General Discussion. Definitely the content for it. Whoops.

I just clicked this in the sidebar - thought it was General Discussion. Definitely the content for it. Whoops.

So I was able to get into the CMD on the streaming service and bring up msinfo32 here is the screen shots for it.