Od1sseas

Tbh both are good and neither will be conceived as worse in terms of performance. Either will be good 

I would stick with the Msj IMO. The sapphire pulse has slightly smaller fans and the same boost clock so j would say the mech msi 

It’s still possible, I’d just start with other potential issues first. 

If its like this its prob a much older bios version and youll need to get a cheap cpu (from either a friend) or used to use to update the bios.

Here's the picture that was sent in JPG format:

You're probably hitting board and IMC limits. 7200MT/s is about as high end as a 6 layer board can handle. My guess is if you go to launch VST at 7400 it will not work at all. 
 
One thing to know is that every memory voltage on 13th gen sweet spots, which makes overclocking memory on there super annoying. They sweet spot based on the memory speed, timings, kit, BIOS revision, CPU, and board, so they're near impossible to find the sweet spot of all them st the same time that works for finding the appropriate frequency that is fully stable. 

A combination of 2-3 different stress tests. My pick is Y Cruncher VST (this is nearly impossible to pass on 13th gen, it stresses the memory controller and is related to the max frequency you can hit) and TestMem5 1usmus. I run them for 1 and 2 hours respectively, but you ask 3 different people you'll get 3 different answers when it comes to this stuff. 

Yeah, on Intel especially the primary timings affect the minimums of the tertiaries. There are times I've gone to raise CAS latency with a fully tuned setup and it fails to train because the subtimings get super unstable. 
 
Bit less per clock, but you are able to tighten it a ton if you've got a good kit, so overall performance impact should be about the same. As for the whole "gobbling volts" thing, I prefer the method of just setting your max voltage and lowering the timings from there, so that doesn't really matter. 
 
Not exactly. tWR is like tWRRD where it's a calculated timing, calculated from tCL, tWRPRE, and tWRPDEN. tWRPDEN is the timing that affects the write delay when entering power down mode, so it generally doesn't actually affect performance in any way, whereas tWRPRE does affect performance. If you want the ASRock Timing Configurator readout to be correct, you want to set tWRPDEN to the same as tWRPRE, but otherwise there's no harm in only changing the one. 

So, there are a couple things I want to point out first. A die seems to have a ton of variance with the subtimings, so it's not like I can just give you a copy of my subtiming and they'll just work, you will need to do some manual tuning of them to get it to work well. I can give some general guidelines, but you'll have to run your own stress tests and everything. 
 
I generally set 123456 and then forget about it, there's not that much point going higher performance wise and setting it higher can result in some very weird issues in the long run. I'd probably just leave it at 100000 if it's already set there, but it's up to you. 
 
Anyway, on to the actual timings
Good kits should be able to do 400 and 300 respectively for tRFC2 and tRFCpb, though 444 and 333 should be a bit more reliable to work. The tRRD timings vary a ton between kits, the good ones do 4 7 for s and l respectively, the worse kits do 8 9, so these especially you have to mess around with.  the WTR timings aren't real and will be handled by the tertiaries tRTP (in the BIOS it should be tRDPRE that you actually set) has a bit of variance as well and tends to scale with frequency. The really good kits at 7200 should do 8, the not-so-good kits might be stuck at 16.  tFAW you should just set to 16 and do the tRRDs manually.  tCWL has a ton of variance, if you're lucky it'll do half your CAS latency, if you're not lucky you set it to 2 below your CAS latency. This doesn't have a massive performance benefit, but might as well try to get it lower.  tCKE usually does 4, but at least on my kit I need to run 12 to get it fully stable and it only fails TM5 1usmus_v3 if tCKE is set too low. It has such a small impact on performance though that just leaving it on auto is not a bad idea.  tRDRD varies a bit, at 7200 you can probably get 14-7 stable for sg-dg respectively, if you're not lucky 16-8 rarely doesn't work. The dr-dd timings don't apply in this memory config, either leave them on auto or set them to 1, and this will apply to all the tertiaries. tRDWR can sometimes do 19-19 for sg-dg respectively, though for the most part you'll be setting these to 20, and if you're unlucky 22 should always work.  tWRRD is what actually sets the tWTR timings, though unfortunately there is a massive amount of variance with these timings. Some kits do 60-44 for sg-dg, others (like mine) struggle to do 70-50. These are more based off your primary timings, so adjusting your primaries will affect these to some degree.  tWRWR also varies quite a bit. The really good kits do 9-7 for sg-dg, the not as good kits do 16-8. Your mileage may vary.  tWRPRE (the timing that actually sets tWR) is affected by CAS latency a ton. It should be fine at 50, though it might go lower to something like 44, or it might struggle to go low and need to go to 60. This timing also varies quite a bit.  Basically, they all vary quite a bit. 

I hope you're trolling. He literally wants to permanently disable Windows Defender lol why you would want to enable those options back on?

I don't think so, WD has a track record of being terrible and innacurate. It's a new machine with all new fresh install. I highly doubt anything's wrong. In fact, I might even run a third party antivirus to see.

Disable Tamper Protection, and then Real Time Protection.
 
Download Defender Control 2.1 and click Disable. That's it.

Components age, so maybe power delivery isn't as good as it used to be and the CPU is no longer stable at the voltages it gets supplied.
 
Have you checked the "stress.txt" the message is pointing out? Maybe it contains some more useful information.

Both the 6 pin and the 8 pin use the same number of wires to carry the energy to video card. The extra 2 wires are just to tell the video card it's allowed to take up to 150w.
So of course, such 6 pin to 8 pin would work, as long as the power supply can provide the power - keep in mind that you have other things besides the video card like the cpu that consume power from 12v.
 
Keep in mind that these budget power supplies are often specc'ed / rated at 30c ambient temperature. If the ambient temperature inside the case and outside the case (air intake) is higher than 30c you often have to derate the power supply, usually by 10-20%.
 
Yeah, it will probably work, even with a cpu consuming 100w  if you have only a couple storage drives and fans, it's unlikely your system's gonna consume more than 250w, leaving some reserves up to 360w maximum advertised.
 
 
 
 

Is it possible? Yes. Is it a good idea? No.
 
A 6-pin cable is rated for 75w, while an 8-pin is rated for 150w. The RX 6600 should use up to 132w. Theoretically, up to 75w should come from the PCIe slot, but GPUs will typically pull more from the PSU directly. You'll likely be running more current through the cable than it is rated for, which is a potential fire hazard. You'll also pull more power from the PSUs connector than it is rated for. If it doesn't have an 8-pin, then there's a reason for that.

thank you, tried to reset the bios but has the same problem, tried to remove the ram and it worked!! Thank you!

They are both good drives, it depends on what you are looking for. The P34A80 is TLC while the UD70 is QLC. TLC will have higher TBW values. In terms of speed at 1TB the P34A80 would perform better being TLC, but the price for the QLC should be lower. 
 
Once again depends on your needs if you are going to do frequent write operations go for the P34A80. If you don't care about TBW and want lots of storage for the same price go for the UD70 at 2TB; at 2TB the speeds will match the ones for the 1TB P34A80. I have bought several P34A80 and I would say 9 - 10 maintain the Phison E-12 controller, I just remember getting 1 with the Silicon Motion controller back in February last year and tbh it still performed like a beast. Personally, I would go for the P34A80 TLC at a value :)

The 1050 ti is far from trash, it's a good card for 1080p gaming if it can be had for the right price (as rarely as that is, I'd say $0 is a good price)
 
With a really crappy cooler

It's legit, just a price comparison site

I would go with SX8200 too

I prefer not to click links. If you respond with the list of options and prices you have, I can help you.
 
Also, what is your criteria for "best". Best price? Performance? Price/Performance? Flavor? Glutes?

Yes

Brand names does not equal quality. You are cheaping out in the most important part of your build. 

Judging PSUs, or any other component, based on brand makes no sense. Would you expect an MSI GT710 to be fast just because it's a good brand?

But what if it's Seasonic GT710 ?