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anfor68

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  1. anfor68
    update 2: it fthe main cause of the issue seemed to have been the motherboard -- because evrything works fine using the exchanged one. thank you @mariushm for your help though!
  2. anfor68
    update: I think the problem was due to a faulty motherboard can't fully test it because I forgot to buy thermal pads for my graphics card (rip) but with the new motherboard that I exchanged from MicroCenter did give me signs of life when briefly tested with the stock heatsink, and RAM will update tomorrow after I buy thermal pads T__T
  3. anfor68
    not home at the moment, but I'll make sure to recheck everything to make sure I didn't miss anything
  4. anfor68
    hey guys I recently upgraded from a Ryzen 1700 to Ryzen 3700x and when I connect all the cables, I get no signs of life from the computer whatsoever -- no lights, no fan spins -- nada. does x570 chipset need to recognize video output from a discrete card to turn on? my computer specs are: AMD Ryzen 3700X Asrock X570M Pro 4 Kngston HyperX 32GB @2133MHz (2x16GB, but only one stick worked on 1700) AMD Radeon RX480 Silverstone Strider Platnium 850W SFX The fans are controlled by a Silverstone fan controller. both CPU and GPU is cooled by a custom water loop with 2 360mm rads when I first connected the components I got the red lights from the motherboard displaying faulty ram -- but fans spinned, lights came up and tried to post. after that, I've disconnected everything, redid the loop, and tried to turn it on, but I get nothing. things I've tried: reconnect all the connectors jumping the 2 mobo connector pins (in the case, case light comes on and pump spins, no fan spins though) trying one stick of ram but no matter what I try, I see no signs of life on the computer. the only thing I haven't tried is connect a display to the GPU to see if that was the problem, but I doubt this is the main cause of it. I want to know if the X570 chipset looks for specific components before it even decides to light up.
  5. anfor68
    the photos look amazing! much, much better than the ones you posted first
  6. anfor68
    You may have figured out the issue by now, but diffusing the light source hitting the glass side panel, or having the case in such a way that it doesn't reflect off the glass will help somewhat. As for the flash, same principle of diffusing the light - and you don't have to purchase those fancy lightboxes that are way overpriced for glorified nylon paper - having a piece of paper over the flash will do just fine in most cases. As for color, you may want to try and fidget with the white balance settings in the camera (if you use JPEGs straight from the camera) or use a RAW developing program (if you shoot in RAW at all) to adjust white balance. You *can* adjust color with photo editing software for JPEGs, but I personally don't recommend it, especially if your camera shoots in RAW, and there are free RAW developers out there. You certainly do take better photos of computers than me though! ^^ my pictures from my build log looks terrible (it is from my phone, but stil...) I do photography as a hobby, but it's mostly fine art stuff, and not really "product photography," so I would take this with a grain of salt, but I hope it helps! P.S. how did you bleed the top rad? I seem to have some air still trapped in there, after about 18 hours of initlal filling.
  7. anfor68
    The hardest bends ended up being the shortest ones - the ones connecting the pump and the bottom rad, and the bottom rad to the graphics card. I feel like I could have done a better job with the tubing, but overall, I am satisfied with how it turned out. ^^ There are still some air bubbles that will have to bleed out, but for the most part. it's running beautifully! Idle temps are about 40 degrees on the CPU and the GPU, with load temps - Prime95 and Furmark - being around 50 on the CPU and high 40s on the GPU. The fans and the pump are barely even running, lol I dropped 15 degrees or so from water, and the more exciting thing is that the load temps are very, very consistent with the idle temps!
  8. anfor68
    2 gallons of distilled water, check. pair of scissors, check. fittings, check.
  9. anfor68
    Update: The first part of the fittings (the drain port) and the fluid came (yay!) so I set the drain port. Honestly, watercooling is a lot more work than I thought it'd be... I found out over reading the documentation of the fluid that it has to be changed every 6 months or so, and I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep it up but I hope it's all worth it in the end!
  10. anfor68
    I purchased Bitspower 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD fittings recently, not realizing that this is probably the tubing size that is the hardest to find T__T I was looking at PrimoChill LRT Advanced tubing and was wondering if the 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD size tubing would fit the fittings I have and if it does not, can I do away with smaller sized tubing? Thanks.
  11. anfor68
    Thank you! I initially thought about using pastel pink coolant (like how I have customized some of the characters in games, lol) but I figured going for 3-tone would look just awful, so I opted to go white. I've always had a problem with heat management during summer (when I lived in southwest coast area) and I figured northeast coast regions would also cause some heat problems during the summer (and my room is an oven, and it's barely even summer!) so I figured better to go overkill cooling than overkill heat, lol and I am thinking of maybe getting another card in the future ^^
  12. anfor68
    well, I am actually going to put a white pastel fluid, so it would be better if I use clear tubing (I could go woth white, but I feel that defeats the purpose of using pastel fluods in the first place and my OCD would kick in if the tubing color and the coolant color are different). Plus I think it would be nice to see the fluids running through the tubes for quick check of how the loop is running. have you used PrimoChill's LRT Advanced tubing?
  13. anfor68
    rip me... T__T well, I guess I will be having PETG tubing for later on ^^; the problem now is to get the soft tubing... what materials are good?
  14. anfor68
    @NoobCase are these not rigid compression fittings? I'm pretty sure it was under rigid compression fittings on performance-pcs.com when I bought it.
  15. anfor68
    Greetings. I am finally able to post a build log! Let's get the specs out of the way first. You may be wondering why I bought the RX 480 to watercool it, and there is a valid argument of purchasing a better performing card for the price of the card plus the block. But since this will be my first watercooling build, I have the idea to just upgrade the parts down the road when I feel like I need to, rather than building a whole new loop to include the graphics card. Having the graphics card now in creating the loop mitigates that problem, and I really don't think I need more power than a RX 480 on water for performance. On to watercooling parts! This is the current state of the build right now and I am currently waiting for shipment of the PETG tubing, coolant concentrate, as well as the drain port system (bunch of Bitspower fittings) from Performance-PCs.com. I will update as soon as the rest of the parts arrive! Have a good day! Small update: Went to a Microcenter nearby and bought some tubing (yay!) The problem with that though is that they didn't have the size of the tubing that would fit my fittings... So I bought another set of fittings that are the size of the tubing I have (besides, the size of the fittings I had were incredibly hard to find tubing for anyway, so I thought I'd go with a more "standard" sized tubing). While I am waiting on those, I finally decided on where I would set up my drain port. I forgot about the fact that my rad on the bottom actually has 4 ports, two on either end opposing each other. So I thought since that IS the lowest part of the loop, I would set up my drain port there using a 90° extender and a ball valve, sticking it out on the bottom twoPCIe slots on the case. Well, that's it for today and hopefully the fittings come soon. ^^;
  16. anfor68
    @Leonard Got it. Thank you so much for your help! I will be sure to update one the build as it progresses!
  17. anfor68
    Here is the updated build with the water blocks installed, and the bottom rad postion flipped over. Now, I bought the rigid compression fittings from the get go, so I really don't have any other choice... Though now that I think about it, I would have gone with soft tubing if I could start over. I am willing to spend more time and effort for the cleaner aesthetics, however. ^^ Do you know if the Thermaltake PETG tubing is any good? I was looking at PrimoChill's website (since I will be using the PrimChill True Infused coolant) but they were out of PETG tubing, and will be ordering from Newegg, but they only have Thermaltake PETG tubing for the 5/8" fittings I bought.
  18. anfor68
    @Leonard Thank you for your reply! I mostly want to use the T-fitting with the ball valve because I can then drain the loop before dismantling the loop. But now that you mention it, the bottom rad near the pump would be the most sensible place to set a drain port. But I am right about the fact that I have to attach another fitting to the ball valve to fit a tube for the water to drain, right? Does that also mean that I have to use a male-to-male G1/4" fitting to connect them? (I realize now that the fittings are the most expensive part about watercooling T__T) Sorry to be asking so many questions, but I also need advice on tubing. Looking at some websites, there is a type of tubing called borosilicate glass tubing. Are they as fragile as glass and avoid them at all costs and go with PETG?
  19. anfor68
    Greetings. I need help with watercooling configuration. More specifically, I need a place to put a drain port, and the only place I can feasibly think of is on the side of the top rad, where there is another G1/4" thread. But it looks to be a very tight fit to even put a straight fitting on it, let alone a ball valve. Another option is to put a T-fitting on either the top rad where the fitting is at the front, or on the bottom rad near the PCIe brackets. Also, how does the T-fitting work? Would I have to attach another fitting to put tubing to fill/drain the loop? And how would I be able to safely remove that fitting (the fitting that gets attached to the T-fitting) and close it with the stopper? Sorry if these questions feel a little "basic," but I am new to watercooling and would like to do this right the first time to make upgrades at least somewhat easier. Thanks in advance.
  20. anfor68
    thanks! I will look into them!
  21. anfor68
    Greetings. I was not able to find good information (most of what I found were too outdated) on universal GPU blocks, so I am hoping to get some help here. I know so far that universal GPU blocks cool the core only, so I need SOME method of cooling the VRM and the VRAM. What I don't know is if those little heatsinks that can be attached to them are effective enough on a custom PCB GPU, specifically the ASUS Strix RX 480 OC Edition. What I want to ask in addition to that is whether or not cooling (as in, with water - how full cover blocks are deisgned to do so) the VRM and the VRAM is critical for out of the factory settings of the GPU, and if the little heatsinks are able to cool them sufficiently without it causing a fire. Now, some people have stated before that I am better off getting a better card for the money I would be spending on the GPU+block. I am not saying that they are wrong, but my argument is that you are spending more money overall for the block for that more expensive GPU. Not only that, the GTX 1070 8GB alone costs more than what I have paid for the card I have now AND the full cover block - had mine were to be compatible - which puts the GTX 1070 out of my budget (plus, I think it would be weird to have an AMD CPU and a nVidea GPU). Thank you guys in advance. edit: I accidentally posted this on the Graphics Cards subforum. if a moderator can move this thread to the Watercooling section, I'd appreciate it. Thnaks and I apologize.
  22. anfor68
    plus, I wouldn't have the funds to buy a GTX 1070 outright, because watercooling will be in the (not too distant, hopefully) future
  23. anfor68
    I suppose I can do that, but if I am planning to be watercooling GPUs in the first place, the cost of the waterblocks and fittings would be negated. As for the price of 2x480s for the price of one 1070, I am planning to use this mostly for 3D modeling and rendering (I don't play a lot of games all that much) (also, I kind of don't like that I would be using a nVidia card on an AMD system, which should not matter at all really, but it bothers me)
  24. anfor68
    thank you for your input @stealth80! I was actually thinking of adding a second GPU if I felt like I need more performance, but with the VEGA not too far away, I may even go that route entirely.
  25. anfor68
    I was maybe planning on putting 2 cards for CrossFire, for better performance in 3D modeling and rendering (which I don't even know if it does help) but I do definitely want to do a watercooling loop partly because I've always wanted to try it at least once, but mostly I think it would be a disaster for the computer to be running in the summer in my apartment (it gets pretty humid in the northwest region of US)
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