Z3R0

Ok so I tested it with only one monitor and the static didn't come up. Then when I tried it with both monitors again there was no static. So I'm hoping it doesn't happen again if it does though I'll try changing my graphics card drivers. Thank you for all the help

Flash player, firefox, and my graphics card drivers are all up to date. Is there something else I should check to see if it needs to be updated?

So as of a couple of days ago whenever I play a video on youtube in firefox as soon as the video loads my main monitor gets taken over by this strange multicolored static. I can generally turn the monitor off then wait a second and turn it back on and it works fine until I play another video though once I did have to reboot my computer to get the static to go away. It is always my main monitor and I have tried youtube in chrome and it works fine where as firefox produces this static every time. I have no idea what could be causing this. Thank you for the help

Hi, I'm helping a friend with building his first pc and I figured it would be good to get some second opinions. The build is going to be in the U.S. and we have access to a micro center. This build is going to be for gaming and general purpose and the budget is about $1600. It will be single monitor, which he already has, with a slight possibility to upgrade in the future. He also has all of his peripherals so that is all squared away. So here is what we have so far: CPU: i7-4770k Cooler: Corsair H80i Motherboard: MSI z87 - GD65 gaming Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4) DDR3 - 1600 SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB HD: WD Caviar Blue 1 TB GPU: EVGA GTX 770 2 GB Case: Corsair 650D PSU: Corsair RM 750w 80+ Gold Optical Drive: Asus OS: Windows 8.1 Networking: Asus PCE - N15 Here is a pcpartpicker link : http://pcpartpicker.com/user/THADKAPIT8R/saved/391o Thank you for the help and feedback.

So I'm trying to help a friend plan a gaming build, but I haven't really been paying attention lately to the market so I'm not entirely sure about suggestions that I give him. His budget is $500 and can't really stray far from that. This pc is going to be used solely for a gaming rig. He has no parts or peripherals laying around, so this build is going to be from scratch, except for windows which he already has. This build is going to be in the U.S. and we have access to a micro center if that helps. Thank you.

So everything seems to be working now. Thanks for all your help.

I just check all of my cables and when I barely touched my 24-pin my computer shut down. I then noticed that there was a lot of strain on the cable and it wasn't entirely seated right. So I gave it more slack and reseated it. Then I checked all of my other cables and they seemed fine. I'm going to try and play again and see what happens. Thanks for the help and I'll come back with an update later on. Hopefully it's good.

Cpu: 3770k @ stock Cooler: hyper 212 evo gpu: msi 7950 @ stock memory: 8gb @ 1600 MHz motherboard: msi gd-65 psu: 750w ocz zt

So I built my computer about a week ago and everything was fine and I was able to play some games on steam, but I got Crysis 3 for free with my graphics card and it was for origin. So I downloaded it and decided to try it out today and I was able to play through the tutorial just fine but when I started to play the game after about 5 or 10 minutes my entire computer restarted. I thought that maybe it was over heating so I played it again but this time on lower settings and checked temperatures throughout and it crashed again, but the temperatures never went past about 70 for my gpu and 45 for my cpu. Then I thought maybe speedfan was causing the problem so I uninstalled it and then tried to play again, but it still crashed and the temperatures never went past 70 and 45. My system is not overclocked. I have no idea what is going on. I've tried doing a little research but haven't come up with anything. Is this just a problem with Origin? Crysis? Thanks for the help and if you need anymore information just ask. Thanks, Z3R0

Hi, I thinking about doing some serious case modding and need an atx motherboard tray. I was wondering if there was a place I could buy one for relatively cheap or if I should just rip it out of a cheap case or maybe even just make it myself. I want to see if you guys know of a place or think I should get one by some other method. Thanks in advance.

For gaming you don't really need an i7; an i5 will do just fine. That leaves you 100 which you could put towards a better graphics card. Also you may want to take a look at amd cards because they are doing really well right now and you get some free games with it, but it really is a matter of opinion. Though you should be warned that if you go with cross-fire there is a problem where the animation don't seem that smooth and the perceived frame rating isn't greater than a single card. This is a driver issue though and should be fixed in a few months. This problem only affects dual card solutions.

Sorry. It seems the h100 can fit in the prodigy. I forgot about the top.

He is going to have a mini-itx build so there is no possibility that he can have crossfire. So amd is still a very good option, however you do make a good point. Also I'm not sure if the h100 can fit inside of the prodigy you may have to get the h80 instead.

The gigabyte board supposedly can't overclock very well, but I could be wrong. Though if this is true then you might want look into a different board such as the asus, but it is much more expensive. There is still a large chance that I am mistaken, though, and the board could be fine, but it is something you should look into since you're getting an unlocked processor and water cooling. I also agree that you should look into getting an amd card because they are doing really well right now, beating the nvidia cards for the same price and sometimes more, and you get some free games.

If this is the card I'm thinking about then the reference water block won't fit on it because xfx change their board to a non-reference design a little while back. Don't quote me on this though because I could be thinking of a different card or you could have a card from before the revision. As of were to get a water block I couldn't find one when I was looking. You could also look at the pcb on your card and compare it to the pcb of the reference design to see if a normal waterblock would work.