epic_ziver_D

Ivan is no longer with us, I'm afraid. 

i3 530 has Intel inbuilt graphics. The i5 750 does not. You will need a discrete GPU to be able to run the display with the i5 750 CPU.

This is basically the same as washing any other fabric like a carpet or a seat in your car. So it should be fairly straight forward for most people
Before you start, I'd say that you might need to be careful using this technique, if you have a mousepad with printing on. As you can see, the Roccat logo on mine is nearly gone, actually after only one single wash. But the alternative for me was to spend 30$ on a new one.
 
Every soap has different properties. Something like the carpet cleaner I used is very aggressive. It's designed to remove really tough stains from fabric. 
Whereas normal dish soap is designed to remove grease from tables or plates. I guess it might be the perfect balance between too aggressive while not being too gentle.
The soap you use with your clothing might be worth a try though. Since it's for clothing (like t-shirts with prints on) I imagine it would do a decent job You could put your mousepad in a bucket with some moderate warm water and however much clothing soap you see fit. Let it sit for a few minutes and then carefully squeeze out the water and let it dry
 
If you want to be very careful, then use some moderate warm water, without soap or anything. If you have prints, then be careful not to rub on those. After that you just let it dry. It might take some time, since squeezing out water could also destroy your prints if you aren't careful.
 
I have a few options for cleaning fabrics. The one to the right is Vanish stain remover. Basically the average household stain remover. The one to the left is Sonax foam upholstery cleaner. I've just gotten the Sonax a few days ago for my car, so I'm going to try that. Most mousepads has like 1mm of fabric so I really doubt anything would have a hard time cleaning a mousepad

 
 
This is what my mousepad looks like after months upon months of use. But the old sweat and dead skin makes for a good blackboard!

 
 
 
Start by making the mousepad wet, with the hottest water you can touch without getting your hands burned.

 
 
 
No, sadly it isn't grease you can see floating in the water. That would be a bit too easy. It is air bubbles. Get the entire mousepad wet, and rub the hot water into the fabric.

 
 
 
This is the Sonax hard at work. The foam have two jobs. One is to loosen the dirt/grease and the other one is to lift up the dirt/grease. Let it sit for a few minutes. The instructions says 3-5 minutes for the Sonax, which might be different on the one you're using. However since the facric is very thin, a minute or two should be enough. If it's really dirty, you can help it by rubbing the foam into the mousepad.

 
 
Rinse the foam off. If it's still dirty, you can redo the foam step.

 
 
 
After the foam is gone and the mousepad is mostly clean. You can fold together the mousepad. And while having hot water running onto the mousepad, you can squeeze that and some more gease out. When you feel like it's clean, then turn off the water, squeeze the water out you can, and let it dry

 
 
This is the finished product. The mousepad is 4-5 years old, and only took a 5 minute wash to make it appear new

 
 
 
 
 
Some suggestions from others
 
 
 

Customer confusion saying: These 8th gen chips will run on these chipsets and these chips won't but they all work on this chipset but the older chips won't work with the new chipset.
 
Its just too confusing for most people, I do agree it would be cool and is why I don't think its bad people are modding bios for this but if Intel would have done it they would get a hella lot of complaints of people saying stuff like: I have a Z270 and bought an 8700k I though 8th gen was compatible with Z270, I saw someone online use Z270 with a 8th gen i3/i5.

I am currently using that exact setup (8700k + Hyper 212 EVO) and I can say it cools it well enogh but it dosent turbo to the full 4.7 (sits around 4.2-4.3)

I'm reposting the comment I posted on Joe's video:
 
First thing, Jay doesn't have much power to affect Nvidia, anything you or Jay thought of its very likely Nvidia have thought of it too. First thing first while Nvidia has been focusing on AI and stuff much more they have stated that gamers are their primary concern, and they are selling their GPUs on their site with a 2 cards per customer limit (at normal pricing), also they have been encouraging retailers to do the same. Nvidia hasn't been earning more money per card, retailers have been increasing the prices, even board partners haven't begun to increase supply because it would take 3 months+ for the supply to arrive, and they don't do it because they do not think that the problem will continue long enough and do not want to be stuck with a bunch of Pascal cards when Consumer Volta drops. If Nvidia starts developing a special mining GPU it will take 2-3+ years till it will be released, I doubt the company wants to take such a big risk in developing a card for a market that's so unstable (Developing a new card would probably cost millions of dollars). Also, Nvidia won't increase manufacturing themselves because board partners won't buy them... While the situation right now is shitty there isn't much anyone can do but start limiting amount of an item per customer without anyone taking big risks. If anything Nvidia is the 1 company trying to help gamers, AMD has been supporting the miners with optimised drivers, retailers haven't been limiting GPUs per customer and some board partners have been sending GPUs to retailers which don't limit GPUs per customer. Nvidia has made public announcements asking retailers to stop selling to miners. Quote: "For NVIDIA, gamers come first. All activities related to our GeForce product line are targeted at our main audience. To ensure that GeForce gamers continue to have good GeForce graphics card availability in the current situation, we recommend that our trading partners make the appropriate arrangements to meet gamers' needs as usual"

Mining hits GPU prices, again.
 
This time it's affecting the high end as well, now a Titan Xp is a better value than some 1080 Ti's
AMD isn't unaffected either:
This kind of stuff is getting tiring, we just have to hope that this "trend" will end soon and GPU will go back to being priced as normal. Right now even for someone who loves PCs, to buy a console because of GPU and RAM prices.
While almost all cryptocurrencies are going down it doesn't seem that Crypto mining will end anytime soon. Hopefully, more mining GPU's start popping up with higher production to end this.
Basically building a PC rn wouldn't be the smartest thing to do, and anyone planning an upgrade will have to wait.
 
Source: https://www.tweaktown.com/news/60563/gtx-1080-ti-now-costs-up-1600-rx-vega-64-2100/index.html

It really depends on the version different versions of cables won't be able to do different stuff but I prefer DP anyways because it doesn't slip out (it has a locking mechanism) and in all versions was/is better than the same time HDMI version. Also, DP does have in-line audio capabilities. (Both HDMI and DP should work in you'ur case). 

Credit to @Starelementpokeand @Energycore for helping out with this long-awaited refresh of the old PSU tier list by Aniallation (who previously went several months without logging in), leaving the old list in need of help. This is simply an update of the list that was flawed in creation by the PCMR subreddit and in dire need of a refresh.
 
This list is subject to change as new PSUs come out on a regular basis and standards may change or issues with units on the list may develop. A list of PSUs awaiting a tier on this list is at the bottom.
 
Tier 1 - Best
Aerocool - Project 7 Antec - High Current Pro, High Current Platinum be Quiet! - Dark Power Pro P10, Dark Power Pro 11, Straight Power 11 Bitfenix - Whisper Cooler Master - V-series (modular, not to be confused with the VSM), MasterWatt Maker Corsair - AX, AXi, HXi, RMi, RMx, SF, grey-label HX (2017), 2017 TXM greater than 650W Enermax - Platimax, Platimax Digifanless EVGA - G2, P2, PS, T2, 1000G1, 850W and above GS FSP - Aurum PT Gigabyte -  Aorus AP850GM LEPA - G1600 NZXT Hale90V2 Seasonic - X, Platinum, Snow Silent, all Fanless units, Prime (all series) Sentey - Platinum Power, Golden Steel Power Silverstone - Nightjar Super Flower - Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium, Leadex II Thermaltake - 1250D-T RGB, Toughpower Grand/RGB 1200W XFX - Pro Gold, Pro Black, XTS Tier 2
Antec - EDGE, TruePower Classic, EarthWatts Gold Pro Azza - Platinum be Quiet! - Pure Power 10 400W or greater Bitfenix - Formula Gold Cooler Master - VSM-series (semi-modular) Corsair - Most RM variants, HX (old), 550W/650W 2017 TXM, Vengeance Enermax - Digifanless, RG, GX EVGA - GQ, B2, 550W and 650W GS, GD, G3, G1+ (not to be confused with the G1) Fractal Design - Edison M, Tesla R2 650W/1000W, Newton R3 FSP - Hydro G, Dagger SFX Gigabyte - XP1200M Kolink - Continuum NZXT - Hale82 N higher-wattage versions Riotoro - Enigma Rosewill - Quark, Fortress, Capstone Seasonic - S12G, G-series/SSRM, M12II 750W/850W, Focus Plus Gold/Platinum, Focus Gold Sentey - Solid Power SS Silverstone - Strider Platinum Super Flower - Golden Green, Leadex Silver Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand/RGB, Toughpower Grand Platinum, Toughpower DPS Platinum XFX -  Pro XXX, XTR, TS Gold Tier 3
Antec - Neo ECO II be Quiet! - Straight Power E10 Bitfenix - Fury  Cooler Master - MasterWatt Corsair - 2017 "Grey unit" CXM***, CSM, some RM variants, 2017 CX - 450W CX have one PCIe connection Cougar - GX-S Deepcool - DQ-ST Enermax -  Enermax Revolution SFX 650W*** EVGA -  BQ 750W and up Fractal Design - Tesla R2, Integra M FSP - Hydro X, Aurum CM, Aurum Pro Lian Li - SFX-L LEPA - G600 NZXT - Hale82 N lower-wattage units OCZ - ZX PC Power & Cooling - Silencer Mk III, Turbo Cool Riotoro - Onyx Rosewill - Lightning, Silent Night, Tachyon, Photon Silverstone - Gold Evolution, Strider Gold, SX650/700/800 SFX, Strider Titanium Super Flower - Platinum King Thermaltake - DPS Gold/RGB, London, BlueEvo 2.0, Smart Pro RGB, Smart series >= 750W Vivo - 24K 650W XFX - Core > 650W, ProSeries Bronze >650W Zalman - EBT Tier 4
Antec - EarthWatts/EA Green, Earthwatts Platinum, High Current Gamer, Neo Eco  be Quiet! - Power Zone, Pure Power L9, Straight Power E9, Pure Power L8 Corsair - Old CXM "Green unit" variants, Rev. 3 "Green unit" variants, GS-series Cooler Master - GM, GX Storm, MWE Cougar - LX Enermax - Revolution X't EVGA - BQ under 750W, NEX Gold, B3 Fractal Design - Tesla R2 500W Inwin - Classic Series PowerSpec - PSX GFM Rosewill - Capstone G Seasonic - SS, SSP, S12II/M12II, ECO 430W Silverstone - Strider Plus, Gold SFX Thermaltake - Toughpower Gold, Paris XFX - TS Bronze Tier 5
Antec - Basiq VP-F, Basiq BP be Quiet! - Pure Power 10 under 400W. Corsair - Rev. 2 CX "Green unit" variants, VS "grey units" Enermax - NaXn 82+ EVGA - 450B/500B/600B/700B, NEX-B OCZ - ZT, ModXStream Rosewill - Glacier Silverstone - Bronze SFX XFX - XT Tier 6
Antec - Basiq VP Bitfenix - BPA Cooler Master - B2 Corsair - VS "orange units" EVGA - 430W/500W/600W 80 PLUS units FSP - Raider Silver Fractal Design - Integra R2 LEPA - MX-F1 NZXT - Hale82 V2 OCZ - Fatal1ty Rosewill - Hive, ARC (M) Silverstone - Strider Essential Thermaltake - LitePower, ToughPower, Smart series < 750W Zalman - GS/GT Tier 7 - Worst
Cooler Master - Elite series EVGA - 400W non-80 PLUS certified FSP - Hexa Thermaltake - TR2 These are all crap  
Currently awaiting more info
 
Some things on this list may not be perfect. Let me know if you believe a PSU is undeserving of its spot on here and provide links to back up your claim and it may be moved. 
 
Some helpful links:
 
How Many Watts Do I Need? - How much power will you need for your system? This guide helps you get a PSU that has more than adequate wattage for you.
80 PLUS Efficiency and What It Really Means - general guide to 80 PLUS efficiency and what it entails. Currently pinned on the Cases & Power Supplies subforum.
 

 
Ask any questions below! 
 
How do you even grade these things? ***
But I don't like Tier Lists!!!!111!!!!
 

That's completely fine, most modern CPU's can reach 70C and even low 80's without any problems. (ofc its recommend to be lower, also Intel's newer CPU have spikes up to an extra 5C-10C)

Went with additional RAM since a lot of productivity stuff can usually benefit from that but feel free to drop it down to 16GB if you think you'll be fine with that instead.
Swapped the CPU cooler to a bit beefier cooler but wasn't sure if your case can fit a 280mm rad, if it can then go with that.
Dropped the 500GB SSD for some more mass storage.
Swapped the mobo and GPU out for Asus brands, if you want a theme and better lighting control. If you don't care about the GPU then I would drop it for an EVGA SC2 or SC Black card instead.
Changed the PSU out, for a few bucks more you get an 850 watt which will allow you to add a second GPU in the future without needing to swap out the PSU and still leave you OC headroom.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor  ($414.89 @ B&H) 
CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($148.89 @ SuperBiiz) 
Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($197.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($359.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($124.99 @ Amazon) 
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($69.09 @ Newegg Marketplace) 
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card  ($749.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($129.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $2195.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-14 16:37 EST-0500

I mean the only company who sells it locally has it overpriced the only way for me to get it at the normal price would be to order from Newegg but as I said I don't want to order not locally if I don't have to.
 
Yes but the reason I'm doing this is that I already have a CPU+Mobo+PSU meaning I just need a case and the HDDs and then in the future, I can expand it. (I am hoping that in the future if I need bigger capacity I can just swap the case and slowly through time upgrade).

Ryzen is AMD and you said that link is your target build but you also said you're moving to Intel from AMD

I am not happy to say this but Windows 10 cuz 8 sucks and 7 its getting outdated, 10 is the most supported and will be most supported in the future and upgrading isn't free anymore.

I am not happy to say this but Windows 10 cuz 8 sucks and 7 its getting outdated, 10 is the most supported and will be most supported in the future and upgrading isn't free anymore.

What resolution/refresh rate? Do you already have a system?

A lot of the time they disassemble the build after showing it and then keep the parts for a future cool build (From what I know)

as above and also some are built for personal use, ive heard of manufacturers buying one to have as a show piece, not sure how true it was though, id imagine something like a build using all msi parts plus a mai themed case mod being bought by msi as an example

It has to be at least 2,000 degrees to do anything.

I don't know why pepole do this... Its just useless, and if they do it at least try make it look real

we're 100% being trolled. he's in another troll thread messing with us, i got a laugh at least 

Ok I have a feeling you are trolling im not sure tho... Also this is your first post and you made the account 6 hours ago... and you changed your profile picture after the first post but before you'r first reply. Feels a lot like a troll...

It might be water evaporating from the wet rag, altho I am not sure. Please show pictures. Also if you havent make sure you turn off the pc and unplug it.
 
EDIT: if you are trolling then just don't...

No problem at all, you might even get better temps thanks to the 3rd fan. EDIT: (From what I know the diffrent companies can only affect the size and cooling of card (and clock speed but dosen't rly matter))

Thanks but I think I'll use the ones in the comment above about the ASUS aura compatible ones.
For radiator: 2 x Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure RGB
For top: 1 x Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow RGB
For rear: 1 x Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 120 Air Flow RGB